Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
397
You will need to move the outboard to the end/side of the boat and use the steering cables you have to control the engine flip flop.
I've seen guys literally build a station out of ply that had ignition, steering etc on it. Time to research. Appears you have a steering wheel and with that come cables to the engine. Depending on what mfg engine you pick then gauges, cables, ignition will all have to be changed out to match to work in sync.
Lots of fun.
The engine came with the supporting control box that had all the wiring and ignition right in the box itself, so I am good there. Might consider replacing the wiring down the line as the jacket that is covering the wires is all brittle and cracking......but I didn't realize I might have to change out steering components as well. I was hoping to make sure that the engine was running before mounting it on the boat. Guess I will have to postpone that thought until after I am done pulling the stringers and possibly transom and start rebuilding.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,707
The engine came with the supporting control box that had all the wiring and ignition right in the box itself, so I am good there. Might consider replacing the wiring down the line as the jacket that is covering the wires is all brittle and cracking......but I didn't realize I might have to change out steering components as well. I was hoping to make sure that the engine was running before mounting it on the boat. Guess I will have to postpone that thought until after I am done pulling the stringers and possibly transom and start rebuilding.
GUUD Gives you lots of time to research and then make some decisions. Focus on the boat.
 

eggs712

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
341
It sounds like a Teleflex steering system, pretty ubiquitous on older boats. I would spray some fogging oil in the cylinders and worry about it next year.
 

stresspoint

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 19, 2022
Messages
1,034
i hate to say this mate , but i think you are going to need some you tube vid research into the motor starting procedure , it very hard for me and others to translate the help you need via text .
it is an easy process , but if not done correctly it can be very dangerous and can also do a lot of damage if it comes off the stand running .
please be carful 150 - 200 kg of motor jumping from a stand running will hurt you as it has torque and a gyro effect when running or just cranking for that matter. .
it must be bolted solid to the stand and the stand must be stable , as in you should be able to torment the motor in all directions and it not try to tip over.
a little stoy about motor stands ::: i have built a few stands in the past that were not quite up to par , one for example i made out of pine and coach screws just as a storage stand for a 55 even rude ,
i had no stand to put a DF 250 4 stroke Suzuki , so i utilized it , dumb assed me started the motor whilst it was mounted , steering locked with only a strip of flat extruded aluminum that bent on the first start up /crank ( that was what started the chain reaction :) , it torqued to one side and the stand cracked in a few places , luckily i had a big fella as a helper that stabilized the motor whilst i switched it off and hooked the crane to it to stop a $15k engine falling over.
scary moment !.
this stand in the pic is what you need to build , anything less for that motor you have is not going to be safe .as you can see how the steering arm is locked with a very thick angle bracket to the stand.
copy it from the pic if you want.
 

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TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
397
i hate to say this mate , but i think you are going to need some you tube vid research into the motor starting procedure , it very hard for me and others to translate the help you need via text .
it is an easy process , but if not done correctly it can be very dangerous and can also do a lot of damage if it comes off the stand running .
please be carful 150 - 200 kg of motor jumping from a stand running will hurt you as it has torque and a gyro effect when running or just cranking for that matter. .
it must be bolted solid to the stand and the stand must be stable , as in you should be able to torment the motor in all directions and it not try to tip over.
a little stoy about motor stands ::: i have built a few stands in the past that were not quite up to par , one for example i made out of pine and coach screws just as a storage stand for a 55 even rude ,
i had no stand to put a DF 250 4 stroke Suzuki , so i utilized it , dumb assed me started the motor whilst it was mounted , steering locked with only a strip of flat extruded aluminum that bent on the first start up /crank ( that was what started the chain reaction :) , it torqued to one side and the stand cracked in a few places , luckily i had a big fella as a helper that stabilized the motor whilst i switched it off and hooked the crane to it to stop a $15k engine falling over.
scary moment !.
this stand in the pic is what you need to build , anything less for that motor you have is not going to be safe .as you can see how the steering arm is locked with a very thick angle bracket to the stand.
copy it from the pic if you want.
This is understandable. I am researching YouTube, but am also consulting you guys as well to make sure I am covering all avenues. I am going to wait on the motor for now until I can either build a new stand with 4x4s and 2x4s, or potentially pull and replace the transom and then mount it to the boat.. I do not know how to weld, so sturdy wood it must be if I go that route. I appreciate the pic and all the info!!! Gives me a better outlook on everything! I depend on YouTube for some things but I depend on you guys to make more of a personable impact on my decision making with your life experiences. This is why I ask the stupid questions...Probably why I also get some negative vibes from some comments on here as well. But let's face it.....I sound like an idiot for a good reason.....I am an idiot! 😂 I am going into this blindly and learning as I go. this is the path I chose and the journey that I am taking. I will be so much better off in the end as a result, instead of just buying a water ready boat and not learning much about boats. At least that's how I see it. Who knows. Maybe I am an idiot for thinking like that too. LOL

That being said, I really am happy that I have you guys on here to help me out!
 

stresspoint

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 19, 2022
Messages
1,034
we are all idiots , our hobby's include , boat , boat motors , boat parts boat fixing , boat forums , lets face it it is an addiction , but it keeps us of the street in cars "well me anyway:".
i have 500hp that is capable"" if i let it "" the boat will clock 100.
built from a basket case that sat in a paddock up bush for 15 years.
 

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havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
730
How do you connect the steering to the engine on the stand? I read your previous recommendations about this and I am still confused as to how to go about this. There is no steering mechanism at the engine except for the little hole in the back that some pole or bar of some sort goes through. I do not recollect seeing any steering mechanism on the boat either, but I could be wrong. What does it look like? There is a really wonky looking bar that is kind of rectangular shaped with a hook or 2 protruding from it that has been sitting at the back by my force motor that I never knew what it went to. Is that what you are referring to?

You could use the outboard steering linkage arm that you removed and lower the trim as far as possible on a stable outboard stand and add a mounting spot for a bolt to fasten to the linkage.

Just don't make the mistake of trimming the outboard with that steering arm bolted down on the stand. That would cause snap, crackle, pop on that linkage bar.
 

TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
397
Lots to talk about today. Sorry so long. Hopefully I get every question answered.

It has been a while. Wisconsin winter decided to finally be cold again and I have not been wanting to have any part of it. LOL I decided to get back out there though these past 2 days and chip away at what is left to pull. Both stringers, last bulkhead and bilge pump were removed. I chipped away at some excess fiberglass pieces around the stringer and bulkhead wells even though I probably don't need to. (OCD LOL)I am unsure of what the void is called when you remove the stringer and you get that open space...So I am going to call that a well. While cutting the excess pieces out, I exposed some more wood in the interior of the ski locker flooring. I kept cutting and more wood was coming out. Is this possible remains of an older stringer from a previous restoration that got glassed over and then new stringers placed in their current place ? I snapped a couple pics to show you what I found. How do I handle this? cut the old out and risk going through the hull again or just glass back over it and not worry?

I removed the rest of the old force engine. Question. In the pic of the back of the transom, you can see a little black flap. What even is that? is lifts up but I don't know what it is for. Also, The hold on the very bottom of the transom is not what I assumed. I thought excess water in the bilge go pumped out of that hole, but it turns out that the bilge pump was attached to a hose the leads out a hold in the back right side of the boat. So what is this hole? There are threads on the outside of it. I am assuming the last owner/s didn't care enough to figure it out or plug it up and took the boat out, allowing water to flood the wood and foam under the deck and cause all this rot. Is this just a simple drain hole that needs to be plugged up with some sort of threaded plug?

After pulling the bones, it was time to test the transom. I drilled into the bottom and as expected, I got rotted shavings. I drilled up higher though, ang got wettish shavings that were very light colored. I started cutting into the transom, and it all fell out like mulch. My worst fear came true. At the very least, I need to cut the engine well out. How do I do this to cause the least amount of visible damage possible? Do I cut along the lines in the one pic?

Lastly, what is the weird looking metal object in the pic? It sat at the back of the boat in the debris pile in the engine well when I got it and is the only piece that I can not identify.
 

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TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
397
Got a guess on the spare part but to not muddy the waters I'll refrain.
please...Guess away....I just need to know if the part is necessary for my boat or not. I was thinking at first it was a wacky looking steering arm of some sort for my old engine when I first got the boat, but being a little wiser now, I don't believe that is the case.
 

The Force power

Commander
Joined
Feb 3, 2019
Messages
2,308
please...Guess away....I just need to know if the part is necessary for my boat or not. I was thinking at first it was a wacky looking steering arm of some sort for my old engine when I first got the boat, but being a little wiser now, I don't believe that is the case.
No guessing required; that is the trailering support bracket for the Force engine. While the engine is trimmed up this bracket slides in the holes from the transom-brackets & kept in place with a cotter-pin through one of the ends
I lost mine once at the boat launch & retrieved at the end of the season with a magnet.
 
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