Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,714
You should log into "Blue Seas" website. Thay have some nice stuff $$$
They also make an accessory to conceal that big red dual battery switch $$$
 

TripleJGraffis

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
414
no problem , it really was a good motor , very strong on the 16 foot very deep v open hull.
as i said the shaking was a nascence as it was progressed from idle to around 2k rpm.
i tried to tune it out but that was never going to happen.

hope the motor is as expected and runs good , it was cheap enough any way .so even if you get a season or 2 from it you will be in front.
That's what I am hoping for!
 

TripleJGraffis

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
414
You should log into "Blue Seas" website. Thay have some nice stuff $$$
They also make an accessory to conceal that big red dual battery switch $$$
Do you turn the switch to the On position when using the boat, or only in an emergency?
 

TripleJGraffis

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
414
Put my cherry picker to use today. Getting the engine mounted on the stand was difficult.... because the back wheels in the stand were wider than the width of the crane. There was no easy way to get the crane right above the mount.... but I eventually and carefully got it seated. The blue cut hose is the gas line... right? Also.. In the one pic with the 3 holes...... is there supposed to be something bolted in there? It looks like it's missing a cover of some sort with the bolt holes all the way around it. What do I need to do step by step to test the motor..... start it up.. and make sure it's running properly?
 

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stresspoint

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 19, 2022
Messages
1,034
RE: firing the motor , i all depends on how long it has sat unused??? .
different procedures , however that said you might just be wanting to fire it up just to see what the story is in regards to ignition , cooling and fuel systems..

steps :
get a fuel tank with a primmer bulb put some 50:1 fuel mix in it ,set it up to the fuel line prime up the carbs till fuel primmer goes hard.
if fuel flows out carbs or any where ,you need to address why before proceeding , most times it means carbs need to be taken apart and cleaned , old fuel line cracked or hose clamp loose can also be the issue.
.
note : i put a marker line on the motor oil tank to see if the level moves when the motor is running , then you know the pre mix is working later on, meanwhile run the 50:1 mix. will do no harm even if pre mix is working ., i believe the Suzuki pre mix set up is quite reliable so there probably will be never a need to bypass it.it still pays to have that security of knowing there is oil going to the motor having the tank mix for the time being.

hook up battery and test the choke ( push key on the controller ) keep in mind these motors have a very weak starter motor so you don't want to be cranking too long..

remove the prop .

get some muffs and a water connection happening to the lower unipoints.'
turn the hose on and crank the motor with the key pushed in see what happens , it may just pop and fire :)..
oh don't forget to establish a way to keep the motor zipping to one side if it fires , i strap from the steering arm across to the stand..

if it fires : let it run a bit , check the temperatures to make sure it is cooling properly , water should come from the pisser shortly after starting , if not a new water pump impeller or cooling system needs addressing is needed now , turn the mot off, don't let it get too hot.

if all goes well , let it cool a bit and test compression ??? you do have a compression gauge :) tool necessary requires when owning outboards when you work on them yourself.

post up results of first stat and compassion numbers , and we can go from there .

good luck!

edit , the cover for the air box is missing , dont stress about it if you cant find one,, my brothers motor ran without it since it i took it off and didn't bother to put it on again , choke did not work so a siff of starter fluid was required for cold starting...
 
Last edited:

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,714
RE: firing the motor , i all depends on how long it has sat unused??? .
different procedures , however that said you might just be wanting to fire it up just to see what the story is in regards to ignition , cooling and fuel systems..

steps :
get a fuel tank with a primmer bulb put some 50:1 fuel mix in it ,set it up to the fuel line prime up the carbs till fuel primmer goes hard.
if fuel flows out carbs or any where ,you need to address why before proceeding , most times it means carbs need to be taken apart and cleaned , old fuel line cracked or hose clamp loose can also be the issue.
.
note : i put a marker line on the motor oil tank to see if the level moves when the motor is running , then you know the pre mix is working later on, meanwhile run the 50:1 mix. will do no harm even if pre mix is working ., i believe the Suzuki pre mix set up is quite reliable so there probably will be never a need to bypass it.it still pays to have that security of knowing there is oil going to the motor having the tank mix for the time being.

hook up battery and test the choke ( push key on the controller ) keep in mind these motors have a very weak starter motor so you don't want to be cranking too long..

remove the prop .

get some muffs and a water connection happening to the lower unipoints.'
turn the hose on and crank the motor with the key pushed in see what happens , it may just pop and fire :)..
oh don't forget to establish a way to keep the motor zipping to one side if it fires , i strap from the steering arm across to the stand..

if it fires : let it run a bit , check the temperatures to make sure it is cooling properly , water should come from the pisser shortly after starting , if not a new water pump impeller or cooling system needs addressing is needed now , turn the mot off, don't let it get too hot.

if all goes well , let it cool a bit and test compression ??? you do have a compression gauge :) tool necessary requires when owning outboards when you work on them yourself.

post up results of first stat and compassion numbers , and we can go from there .

good luck!

edit , the cover for the air box is missing , dont stress about it if you cant find one,, my brothers motor ran without it since it i took it off and didn't bother to put it on again , choke did not work so a siff of starter fluid was required for cold starting...
If it starts it may rev high then should go to a lower rev as would be normal.
Do not throttle up let it run in idle. Make sure it is pissing water out to cool motor.
Hope all goes well !
 

garbageguy

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
1,570
It's beneficial to have a "start" battery and a "house" battery in a boat. The start battery's sole purpose is to power the starter. The house battery powers pretty much everything else - blower, horn, bilge pump, lights, stereo, etc. This way if you take your boat out for a nice day on the lake to drop anchor and listen to tunes, you are only pulling power off the house battery. Your start battery remains untouched and will give you the best chance to get the engine started when you're ready to go back to the dock. There's nothing worse than enjoying the day on the lake, then have a battery too weak to start the engine back up.

If you do a 2-battery system, I also recommend a dual battery switch and an Automatic Charging Relay (ACR). This setup allows your engine's single alternator to charge up the start battery first, then when its full, automatically switch over to topping off the house battery.

The dual battery switch, with an off position, when switched off - allows you to be sure you didn't leave anything on draining a battery - and is kinda a "poor man's security system" (especially when it's out of view)
 

TripleJGraffis

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
414
RE: firing the motor , i all depends on how long it has sat unused??? .
different procedures , however that said you might just be wanting to fire it up just to see what the story is in regards to ignition , cooling and fuel systems..

steps :
get a fuel tank with a primmer bulb put some 50:1 fuel mix in it ,set it up to the fuel line prime up the carbs till fuel primmer goes hard.
if fuel flows out carbs or any where ,you need to address why before proceeding , most times it means carbs need to be taken apart and cleaned , old fuel line cracked or hose clamp loose can also be the issue.
.
note : i put a marker line on the motor oil tank to see if the level moves when the motor is running , then you know the pre mix is working later on, meanwhile run the 50:1 mix. will do no harm even if pre mix is working ., i believe the Suzuki pre mix set up is quite reliable so there probably will be never a need to bypass it.it still pays to have that security of knowing there is oil going to the motor having the tank mix for the time being.

hook up battery and test the choke ( push key on the controller ) keep in mind these motors have a very weak starter motor so you don't want to be cranking too long..

remove the prop .

get some muffs and a water connection happening to the lower unipoints.'
turn the hose on and crank the motor with the key pushed in see what happens , it may just pop and fire :)..
oh don't forget to establish a way to keep the motor zipping to one side if it fires , i strap from the steering arm across to the stand..

if it fires : let it run a bit , check the temperatures to make sure it is cooling properly , water should come from the pisser shortly after starting , if not a new water pump impeller or cooling system needs addressing is needed now , turn the mot off, don't let it get too hot.

if all goes well , let it cool a bit and test compression ??? you do have a compression gauge :) tool necessary requires when owning outboards when you work on them yourself.

post up results of first stat and compassion numbers , and we can go from there .

good luck!

edit , the cover for the air box is missing , dont stress about it if you cant find one,, my brothers motor ran without it since it i took it off and didn't bother to put it on again , choke did not work so a siff of starter fluid was required for cold starting...
What do you mean when you say to establish a way to keep the motor from zipping to one side?

What is the pisser?
 

stresspoint

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 19, 2022
Messages
1,034
he motor will want to swing to one side , set it from the steering lever to the stand centralized.
pisser is the tell tale to let you know water is getting through the motor.
 

TripleJGraffis

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
414
he motor will want to swing to one side , set it from the steering lever to the stand centralized.
pisser is the tell tale to let you know water is getting through the motor.
Where is it located? And where is the steering lever? Do you see it in my pics?
 

briangcc

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,300
Bolt it asap. When it starts, it'll probably shake, rattle, roll a bit and if all that's holding it to the stand is gravity and those two little fingers on the motor mount, you may find yourself with an "Oh Carp" moment with a running engine sitting sideways on your driveway. That would be a very bad day.
 

TripleJGraffis

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
414
Bolt it asap. When it starts, it'll probably shake, rattle, roll a bit and if all that's holding it to the stand is gravity and those two little fingers on the motor mount, you may find yourself with an "Oh Carp" moment with a running engine sitting sideways on your driveway. That would be a very bad day.
OK I will have it sit for now and get it bolted down first thing when I have a free day. Is it too much also if I were to attach the hook on top of the engine to the cherry picker for added support in case the stand decided to tip?
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,714
OK I will have it sit for now and get it bolted down first thing when I have a free day. Is it too much also if I were to attach the hook on top of the engine to the cherry picker for added support in case the stand decided to tip?
Yup you can buy a kit to match the bolts. Good safety backup.
Harbor freight has them as well as many others. You could add and eye bolt in the middle to hook to.
 

TripleJGraffis

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
414
Yup you can buy a kit to match the bolts. Good safety backup.
Harbor freight has them as well as many others. You could add and eye bolt in the middle to hook to.
You mean in the middle of the flywheel? Wouldn't that be spinning like mad if the engine is running? That;s what I was referring to. If the engine is shaking or moving a little erratically, is there a safe way to have the cherry picker hooked up in case the engine decides to dance and the stand and all tips over?
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,714
So then I'm hoping you were only going to use it for support while NOT running. No way to the engine if you plan to try and kick her over.
You might be able to run a strap around the lower casing, but the engine will
still want to jump while running on start. My best bet is to strap the picker below the lower engine cowl only or back up support as well as bolted.
Earlier comments about engine jumping when started is true. It is a powerful beasty engine.
Prior Recommendations/comments were to have the steering connected to engine on stand so you can control the motor as it tries slaps around. You will want 2 people to play. 1 at ignition and wheel the other by the motor as you call out start, stop..run away ahhhh. Turn it off.
 

TripleJGraffis

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
414
So then I'm hoping you were only going to use it for support while NOT running. No way to the engine if you plan to try and kick her over.
You might be able to run a strap around the lower casing, but the engine will
still want to jump while running on start. My best bet is to strap the picker below the lower engine cowl only or back up support as well as bolted.
Earlier comments about engine jumping when started is true. It is a powerful beasty engine.
Prior Recommendations/comments were to have the steering connected to engine on stand so you can control the motor as it tries slaps around. You will want 2 people to play. 1 at ignition and wheel the other by the motor as you call out start, stop..run away ahhhh. Turn it off.
How do you connect the steering to the engine on the stand? I read your previous recommendations about this and I am still confused as to how to go about this. There is no steering mechanism at the engine except for the little hole in the back that some pole or bar of some sort goes through. I do not recollect seeing any steering mechanism on the boat either, but I could be wrong. What does it look like? There is a really wonky looking bar that is kind of rectangular shaped with a hook or 2 protruding from it that has been sitting at the back by my force motor that I never knew what it went to. Is that what you are referring to?
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,714
You will need to move the outboard to the end/side of the boat and use the steering cables you have to control the engine flip flop.
I've seen guys literally build a station out of ply that had ignition, steering etc on it. Time to research. Appears you have a steering wheel and with that come cables to the engine. Depending on what mfg engine you pick then gauges, cables, ignition will all have to be changed out to match to work in sync.
Lots of fun.
 
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