Another Maine Starchief

[oldhaven]

I will try to do a CAD model of the spear endcap. Perhaps something can be worked out.

In other resto news, I just bought a 34 gallon Moeller belly tank off C-List, never used in a boat, for about a third of the new price. It is a model from the mid 2000's, but sat in a shed for years. I was going to fill the bilge beyond my 4 foot long 27 gal tank with foam, but I figure this 5 foot long tank will take up the remaining space up to the cabin and will provide equivalent flotation as foam would when empty, and now I don't have to buy as much foam. (And... if I ever decide to strike out for Europe, I can put 60 gallons of fuel in the boat ;>). I will be plumbing it in with a fill and vent just in case, though I doubt I will use it much if at all, since fuel goes bad quickly. Even at 7 mpg that is 420 miles, (and about 480 pounds of gas down low).

The upper windshield polycarbonate is all cut out and I am just waiting on the glazing vinyl to start reassembly. I have decided to Sharkhide the aluminum windscreen frame. I found a good deal on the outer rub rail insert with the correct Starcraft profile, even comes with a SC label, though it is going to be cream color instead of black. That should actually fit the red/off white/shiny aluminum paint scheme I have just about decided on.

Ron

 

[dpotter]

Ron, what are the dimensions on the tank? Im looking for about a 30 gal like yours. I line on the largest fresh water lake west of the old miss. Just straight nortH to end of the lake and back is 60 miles from my place. Oh btw mid 30s her so im finally workibg on mine too.

 

[dpotter]

Sorry about typos. Internet is down so using tiny tablet with lte.

 

[oldhaven]

This is the 34 gal tank I just got. Check the prints for dimensions:

http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moellermarine/files/ft3418-r2.pdf

It is out of production now and the slightly different replacement is:

http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moellermarine/files/ft3418-1-r4_(032534)_a_9-17-13.pdf

The 27 gal tank I already had is:

http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moellermarine/files/ft2899-r4.pdf

If you want to shop for dimensions that better suit your boat, the main page is:

http://www.moellermarine.com/oem/fuel_tanks/fuel-tanks/

Once you know what you want you can watch C-list or google for used ones or be looking for sales. I got my 27 at a pretty good discount, and they are not cheap at full price. I know iBoats offers some of these and you do get a forum member discount..

Both of my tanks will require moving the longitudinal stringers out a bit to at least 27 inches apart from the stock 24.5 inches on my 18 footer, as Watermann has shown in his project. I am not sure about bigger SC's. That might also mean raising the deck slightly but depending on where you put the fill and vent, that helps with clearance above the tank.

Ron

 

[Watermann]

Nothing like not having to refuel on a long trip or on the water for the weekend. :thumb:

The marinas always gouge the heck out of you for fuel on the water. I've gone on a few 100+ mile trips and returned with plenty of fuel left over. Another good reason not to fuel up on the water is fuel quality, I use only non E premium in my boats and not sure I trust them to have good gas.

 

[laurentide]

Awesome score on the tank! :thumb:

I wonder if anybody here has figured out statute mpg with a modern 4 stroke? I haven't bothered with my old 2S, but I bet the 4's are getting better than 5-6 in the RPM sweet spot. Which is obviously great!

 

[oldhaven]

In a Mercury performance test, the new 75hp 4S got 8.8 mpg at 3000 RPM, 23 MPH , and still got 7.4 mpg at 4000 RPM, 32.6 MPH. Top speed of 43 MPH. This on a 17 1/2 foot aluminum bass boat with a dry weight of 1100 pounds. Even discounting advertising hyperbole, MPG is probably pretty good on a light aluminum hull at comfortable cruise. Mine is a 90 so may not do as well. I guess I'll find out.

View attachment bhb-75-hp-fourstroke-black-max-crestliner-vt-17.pdf

 

[laurentide]

In a Mercury performance test, the new 75hp 4S got 8.8 mpg at 3000 RPM, 23 MPH , and still got 7.4 mpg at 4000 RPM, 32.6 MPH. Top speed of 43 MPH. This on a 17 1/2 foot aluminum bass boat with a dry weight of 1100 pounds. Even discounting advertising hyperbole, MPG is probably pretty good on a light aluminum hull at comfortable cruise. Mine is a 90 so may not do as well. I guess I'll find out.

It may actually do better than the 75, as the RPM's should be slightly lower. Those numbers are astounding. You may be punished a little bit because of windage, but your operating expenses will still be crazy low. With those tanks your range will really be anywhere you want to go. Awesome.

 

[oldhaven]

I got the transom pieces put together today. West System epoxy straight for first tack coat on each half, then a thin layer of thickened epoxy to gap fill before clamping. I think I could have gotten away with just the un-thickened epoxy. I got a lot of squeeze out and dripping and spent an hour or so just using a poly spreader catching excess and smoothing the edges before it began to set up in the 50 degree temps in my cellar. I'm positive this is a gap free bond, so no capillary action should trouble it, and I will seal the edges after I do final fitting and sanding, though this is not really that necessary for this synthetic. I think the 1 x 2 steel bar I clamped to it will assure straightness, though Coosa is pretty straight as it is. Here is the traditional Deja Vu picture for some of you:




I try for a little progress every day, though the cellar is pretty cramped and jammed with parts of two boats being worked on. You can tell from the empty boxes waiting for recycle that I have had the UPS guy visiting frequently.

Ron

 

[dpotter]

Looking good Ron, I wish I was that far along. I just got back home and intend to get out and remove cables, hoses... that go through the splash well so I can get that off. My skid loader is down so no engine removal for a little while. Your progress is providing the inspiration I need though. I need to place an Iboats order soon for lots of the little things. What are you going to use for the drain holes? I'm looking at the plastic composite ones so far.

 

[dpotter]

Ron, Did you order a single sheet of 3/4's or were you able to get it locally? I'm considering tracing the pattern and having mine made from a piece of 1.5. Are you going to use it for your deck?

Doug

 

[Watermann]

Oh jeez one 4x8' sheet of coosa board 1.5" thick is 600 bucks...

 

[dpotter]

It's expensive, but I'll only need 1/2 sheet if they cut it. Not sure what they charge to cut it on their transom table that they showed in the video. About the same as 3/4 if I buy that and laminate it.

 

[oldhaven]

Hi Doug,

I will be using aluminum for the drains, since I have the flanging tool. I may put in an extra one to route the transducer and paddle wheel cables.

If you can get someone to do a lengthwise 1/2 sheet of 1.5", or have them cut out the transom to a pattern, I would recommend it, especially if the price is the same as using 3/4. Far less trouble than cutting out 2 pieces of 3/4 and laminating, with the extra labor and epoxy cost. The only advantage I can see for what I did is that I have enough 3/4 left over for several moisture sensitive pieces that will be needed under the deck. I have not decided about the deck material yet. Bluewater 20 in 3/4 would be rigid enough and provide about 40 pounds of flotation per sheet as a bonus. I could only justify the extra expense because we have some flexibility from selling our cabin, and the boat will be what we will be using instead of going there. I can see having nothing in the transom, deck or below it that would ever rot, but at my age that would be doing a favor for the next owner.

Ron

 

[dpotter]

Man, I hear ya as far as favors for the next owner. I'm up there with ya. One of the benefits I was thinking about was the ability to use poured in foam. No reason to go back in there. Where did you get your coosa? I sent them an email looking for someone that supplies it between western Mt and Seattle.

 

[oldhaven]

I got mine at Hamilton Marine in Maine. They have almost anything you want and are local to me, so no big car trips. we are lucky to have a nice maritime heritage and a lot of commercial small time fisherman here. West Coast....????

Ron

 

[dpotter]

Hi Doug,

I will be using aluminum for the drains, since I have the flanging tool. I may put in an extra one to route the transducer and paddle wheel cables.

If you can get someone to do a lengthwise 1/2 sheet of 1.5", or have them cut out the transom to a pattern, I would recommend it, especially if the price is the same as using 3/4. Far less trouble than cutting out 2 pieces of 3/4 and laminating, with the extra labor and epoxy cost. The only advantage I can see for what I did is that I have enough 3/4 left over for several moisture sensitive pieces that will be needed under the deck. I have not decided about the deck material yet. Bluewater 20 in 3/4 would be rigid enough and provide about 40 pounds of flotation per sheet as a bonus. I could only justify the extra expense because we have some flexibility from selling our cabin, and the boat will be what we will be using instead of going there. I can see having nothing in the transom, deck or below it that would ever rot, but at my age that would be doing a favor for the next owner.

Ron

I got a return email from Coosa. They have a distributor in Seattle so I'll pick up 3/4 like you did. To get precut transum, it would come from Florida and shipping becomes the problem.

 

[oldhaven]

I made an error in my post 174, and 3/4 Coosa Bluewater 20 will provide 85 pounds of flotation per 4 x 8 sheet. A sheet (2 cubic feet) weighs 40 pounds. 2 cubic feet of water is 125 pounds. 3/4 ply is about 75 pounds per sheet depending on its materials and it will provide 50 pounds of flotation.. 1/2 ply is 33 % lighter than 3/4 but provides 33% less flotation. Since the sealing or coating of the Coosa deck will be pretty much the same as plywood, that can be discounted. On an 18 foot Chief the typical 2 sheets to make an 8 foot long deck back to under the sliding doors plus cabin bulkheads from the leftovers will provide 170 pounds of flotation, plus weighing 70 pounds less than plywood, for a net gain of around 140 pounds of flotation, if I am doing this correctly. I still don't know if that plus the no rot factor compensates for the higher initial cost down side, but it does go on the plus side for me. I am going for the lightest boat I can remake, and if I need more ballast I can fill the belly tanks more. (If gas goes back to 4 dollars, 60 gallons will be about the price of one sheet of 3/4 Coosa, to put things in perspective, though seawater ballast would be more cost effective.....;>)

Ron

 

[Watermann]

I'd use the Coosa if it was sold near me but I'm not driving 500 miles to pick it up in Seattle, I hate driving over there.

I think you'll need more than 2 sheets to do the decking and cabin as it has to be installed cross way 4' rather than 8' length way.

 

[dpotter]

I'd use the Coosa if it was sold near me but I'm not driving 500 miles to pick it up in Seattle, I hate driving over there.

I think you'll need more than 2 sheets to do the decking and cabin as it has to be installed cross way 4' rather than 8' length way.

I agree WN, I'm only doing that because my office is there and i have to go there about one a month. Here is the reply from coosa if you ever go. BTW, I found a late 60's Holiday I/o 18 footer I may have to go look at. [FONT=&quot]The closest distributor to you would be: [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Fisheries Supply[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]1900 N. Northlake Way[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Seattle, WA 98103[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot](800) 426-6930[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot](206) 632-4462[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]www.fisheriessupply.com[/FONT]