Advice on transom , stringers and floor rebuild

[carlos515]

Well time this spring to tackle the hull. I have lots of spider cracks from walking on the hull without the stringers in last year. Also some damage on the keel ? Not to mention my 2 slices through the hull ( very small) when removing the old stringers.
I decided to play it safe and made some boat stands to support the boat while I crawl around under it.

 

[carlos515]

Should I sand down the gel coat to glass and put a layer of 1708 on , then poly fair to fix the spider cracks?

 

[buxmj]

It is a lot of work but I am in the process of fairing now after sanding the whole bottom of the hull and some of the sides. I added a layer of CSM to the whole hull, not 1708 because I heard you don't need the strength, the CSM stabilizes all the original glass and gel coat so the cracks don't bleed through the new paint or gelcoat. I am sure it does add strength and it is all tied together, bonus. Be patient but doing this I think will keep you from being frustrated with spider cracks showing back up.

 

[carlos515]

Thanks buxmj,
How did you laminate the csm on the hull? In small patches or full sheet width from port to starboard side?
What are you using to fair out the hull? I was going tho use ATC sanding putty Poly-Fair .

 

[buxmj]

Welcome! I did it in smaller pieces and because CSM has a random layup of fibers to it you can go any direction. Be sure not to overlap too much, that will add thickness in one spot which will add more work in the fairing process. I initially used polyester fairing compound which I didn't like and then switched to totalboat total fair which I really like. It is an easy 1 to 1 epoxy compound so if you are going to gelcoat you will have to apply another product on top of the epoxy before you gelcoat. I am painting, soon I hope, so I can prime and paint right over the total fair.

 

[carlos515]

Makes sense with the smaller manageable csm pieces . I will try the ATC putty and see if it is good.
Well I spent the better of the morning taking off the boat from the trailer. Used my engine hoist to lift the boat from the back , then the front . Worked well and my stands work well also. Will sand blast trailer , paint , new wobble rollers and a few more marker lights .

 

[carlos515]

Well , I did not listen to the advice I received regarding a ski locker , earlier in my build. I thought I would just put an inspection hatch and fill the forward floor compartment with foam thinking that I would not have water entering the area. I was wrong.
I have cut the floor and removed the foam. I will cut out the last piece of keel support and replace with new. Yes I do things backwards it seems.
I was thinking to use some 1/8th hardboard for a base template and puting down 3 layers of 1708 with 1.5oz of csm in between the layers. Would this be a bad idea ? I figure there is no structural support needed here.

Thanks, Carlos

 

[carlos515]

Just removed the last piece of rot. I would have done this when the floor was off and doing the stringers , but I started to get dismayed and ignored the ski locker. After a year of not working on the boat , I am reguvenated and have my patience back. I will get some 1/2 inch ACX plywood to do the locker floor. I will grind the hull to fresh fiberglass and laminate the ply in.

 

[Beachcraft170E]

What got you to the point of opening up the front area? How did you know you were getting water in?

 

[88 Capri (2022 SOTY)]

Well , I did not listen to the advice I received regarding a ski locker , earlier in my build. I thought I would just put an inspection hatch and fill the forward floor compartment with foam thinking that I would not have water entering the area. I was wrong.
I have cut the floor and removed the foam. I will cut out the last piece of keel support and replace with new. Yes I do things backwards it seems.
I was thinking to use some 1/8th hardboard for a base template and puting down 3 layers of 1708 with 1.5oz of csm in between the layers. Would this be a bad idea ? I figure there is no structural support needed here.

Thanks, Carlos

The 1708 has CSM on the backside of it so you shouldn't need CSM in between the layers.

 

[carlos515]

In the spring when the boat cover came off I looked in the front inspection hatch and there was alot of water. That is when I drilled a hole to drain the water.

 

[JASinIL2006]

The 1708 has CSM on the backside of it so you shouldn't need CSM in between the layers.

I agree. If you feel you need extra strength in that area, just add a layer or two of 1708.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Just looking at your picture, it appears there is no pipe to allow water to drain out of the ski locker, but maybe I can’t see it. At the lowest point of the keel there should be passages to allow accumulated water to travel to the bilge. I used CPVC pipe PB’d through all the cross members.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Very nice project by the way.

 

[carlos515]

Thanks all,
I will just use the 1708....4 layers on top of the ACX.
I was going to put drain holes through the ski locker floor and drain through the bulk head towards the bilge area. CPVC is a good idea. I have some 1 inch kicking around .

 

[carlos515]

What thickness of plywood are most of the sunpads made with? I am thinking to change the layout of my seating to buckets in the front and a bench seat in the back with a nice 47"x79" sunpad. I can make suports under the sunpad to suport the center. I was also thinking of electric actuators to lift the pad for engine work. I have not done much with the interior except to clean the seats .

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Mine are 3/4” plywood. The sun deck on my Chap is split into 3 sections instead of lifting up as one unit. My layout is similar to how you describe you want yours to be.

 

[todhunter]

I went with 3/4" plywood for my sun-pad too.

 

[Chris51280]

i have 3/4 as well. i put lift shocks on mine that keep the pad open. build a bench seat too to support the deck

 

[carlos515]

Thanks all. 3/4 it will be.