96 Bayliner 2050 - The Dirty Rotten Baystard

Grub54891

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Jun 17, 2012
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I keep it in a small tub of acetone and roll, dip, roll, the bubbles go away for me.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
Can you post a close up pic of a trouble spot, some of the spots in your other pics look like wet glass, moisture can make resin turn white, other spots look dry from a lack of resin.

​Also sometimes putting a layer of CSM under the 1708 helps the resin stay in the glass, the exact resin used can have an affect too.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
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Jul 29, 2016
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I hate to say it, but it almost looks like the 1708 was contaminated, or the old fiberglass was not cleaned. Of course, that's just my 100 yard view. Like ondarvr stated, we need more photos.
 

AShipShow

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Jul 8, 2016
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Don't worry guys, I didn't kill myself after the stringer issues, I've just been radio silence for a bit here with a lot of stuff going on around the holiday.

Just a quick update: I finished grinding out what I could see fit on the stringers in terms of dry spots and bubbles. I also went around to any of the larger bubbles and drilled a small hole in them and shot resin in with a syringe, this actually worked really well. And then at some point, i just called it good enough. There are other spots I'm sure I didn't catch, but oh well...

Yesterday, I added back another layer of 8" wide tabbing followed by 12" wide tabbing, so, in total, I have anywhere between 2 and 4 layers of 1708 over my entire stringers depending on how deep I ground in certain areas.. In my opinion, I probably could have gone back over with 1 layer of 1708, but I wanted to be sure this thing was solid.. So now, even if my wood cores ever rot, it probably doesn't even matter lol.

I just have a little bit left to finish up on the one stringer with the 2nd layer of tabbing, as I was blowing through rollers every 10 minutes. I bought the foam ones to give them a try and they resin ate the glue that held them on their core.

All that being said, I think my mistake on the first layup was trying to do the stringers full length in one piece, it was just too hard to manage, and I couldn't get the back to wet out because I think I severely underestimated how much resin the mat on the backside eats up. When I redid this, I used 50" wide strips, overlapping, and I laid each piece out upside down on the hull and put a liberal amount of resin on the mat side first. This seemed to be the key as everything went much better this time.

Sorry, no pics right now, but you have all seen this stuff before lol
 

Baylinerchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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Looking forward to seeing it. For me it's like boat porn since my stringers are all covered up, lol.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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I know you're moving along at a good clip but if you can do any wood glassing on a table you'll find it so musch easier. Then set it and tab it. Eventually you can go wet on wet. Keep at it we've all been there. :joyous:
 

AShipShow

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I know you're moving along at a good clip but if you can do any wood glassing on a table you'll find it so musch easier. Then set it and tab it. Eventually you can go wet on wet. Keep at it we've all been there. :joyous:

Funny you say that, lol. I had the same thought the other night...i thought, "why am I doing all this in the boat?" I'm going to take that approach on the bulkheads.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Wait till you see how smooth it goes. Flat work is such a nice way to do it. Like you I learned the hard way. But that is the fun of it ya see.

George%2BBooth%2BCartoon%2BThree.jpg
 

AShipShow

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Ask and you shall receive... boat porn there be..
 

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AShipShow

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Stringers are officially complete... I also got all the bulkheads cut tonight, they came out pretty good I think, and weather permitting I will get them sealed and coated with csm tomorrow. Getting close to a floor in this thing! P.s. I think I decided not to put in the extra inner stringers up by the ski locker.. the stringers I put back are 1.5" thick and the old ones were only 3/4" thick so I think it's fine without them, plus I'm putting an arch support in to help support the floor in the ski locker area.
 

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AShipShow

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Bulkheads have a layer of csm on both sides... not sure when I'll get to tabbing them in, got a busy couple days ahead.. I'm getting anxious now tho.. I can't wait to stand on a deck again.
 

AShipShow

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Got the bulkheads PB'ed in and one layer of tabbing.. Should these get two layers like the stringers or do you think one layer is good??? I think I know the answer tho lol.

Plus, I ran out of cabosil, however, I coincidentally had a couple gallons of 3M microballoons at work that we didn't need anymore so I took them with me and, I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, but they don't seem to thicken resin worth a darn... I added a huge amount and the resin still stays very runny, I had to add extra chop strand just to get it somewhat thick enough to stick on the vertical seams. Anyways, thats why in the picture below, there is white... Its not a bunch of huge airbubbles or unwetted glass, its the fillet material...
 

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ondarvr

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Apr 6, 2005
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The only thing that will thicken the resin and stop it from sagging is the silica (Cabosil, Aerosil), that's what it's designed to do, the other fillers you can add will change the characteristics of the putty.
 

Baylinerchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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Got the bulkheads PB'ed in and one layer of tabbing.. Should these get two layers like the stringers or do you think one layer is good??? I think I know the answer tho lol.

Plus, I ran out of cabosil, however, I coincidentally had a couple gallons of 3M microballoons at work that we didn't need anymore so I took them with me and, I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, but they don't seem to thicken resin worth a darn... I added a huge amount and the resin still stays very runny, I had to add extra chop strand just to get it somewhat thick enough to stick on the vertical seams. Anyways, thats why in the picture below, there is white... Its not a bunch of huge airbubbles or unwetted glass, its the fillet material...

If it were me, I would add the second layer of tabbing......but you already knew that.....didn't you.

The micro balloons are used to make a sandable filler. A water proof marine grade Bondo. But even when using micro balloons, a thickener like cabosil is still required to thicken to a paste like consistency.
 

AShipShow

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Wow, you know its been a while since the last update when I had to dig deep into the 4th page of the resto forum to find my topic lol. Well, I've been pretty busy/lazy lately, doing some last minute boating up at Raystown last weekend, and some other vacations to use up the last of my days before my companies fiscal year comes to an end. Also, my new bucket of cabosil came in yesterday so I was able to get back on it and finish up the 2nd layer of tabbing on the bulkheads. They are now complete and the only thing left on the stringers is to cap them with CSM... I honestly probably don't even need to do it since they still have 2 layers of 1708 on top from the first failed attempt at glassing the stringers. However, when I went back and ground off bubbles/dry spots, I'm not sure if i went through the glass anywhere, so to be safe, I'm going to go over the top with a layer of CSM. After that, I'm going to grind the deck lip out (yay, more grinding and vacuuming). Then its a scramble to get the deck in and foamed before temps drop too much.

I'm still throwing around the idea of putting holes at the bottom of each bulkhead and the transom end of the stringer to allow water to settle out of the foam and drain to the bilge. I know, in theory, if the boat is done right, there should never be water in there in the first place, but we all know its going to get there eventually. Fiberglass absorbs water to some degree, water condenses from the air in those cavities, etc... I kinda like the idea of those cavities being able to be vented, but at the same time, I don't know if it will do anything or cause more problems that is solves.

If i do go thru with the idea, my plan was to take foam pipe insulation, cut it lengthwise to like a 45ish degree angle, and glue it at the bottom of the cavities where the hull meets the stringer to keep the expanding foam out of this area. This would form a continuous "channel" from bow to bilge that would allow water to drain. Even more out there was the idea to install some sort of mini solar powered fan up in the bow area that would blow air through this channel to help vent this channel and constantly trying to dry it out.
 

Baylinerchuck

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Yeah, I thought about drainage a lot to be honest. I asked numerous questions about limber holes and trying to figure out a drainage strategy. Here are my thoughts.

In the end, if water does get into the foam cavity, chances of it getting out are slim, drying out more slim. Foam will absorb the water, over time. Wet foam will rot encapsulated wood over time. Properly sealed, the foam cavities are nearly impossible to get wet. Add limber holes, your chances go up. Especially if the drains are exposed to water, bilge floods.

I think I was over thinking my cavity drain issue. I decided not to add drains and spent the extra effort in tabbing and glassing everything to be water tight.

Good luck in whatever you decide.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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I agree with BLC! Concentrate and ensuring the deck is 100% sealed and then the ONLY way water can get to the foam is from the outside in due to hitting something etc. You should KNOW if and when that happens and a quick repair will keep the water from getting to the structural components.
 
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