'94 Crownline 182 Restore transom/stringers/deck

Rickmerrill

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Before.
 

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Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Messages
686
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Rickmerrill

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Deleted.
 

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Rickmerrill

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Anyway, since I cut the cap out decided might as well go for broke - decided to go ahead and get rid of the rest of the flooring and stringers up front and start with fresh. After several sessions cutting and grinding almost done. Of course it was the most stubborn part - some thick tabbing on the stringers up there but a lot of dry glass to get rid of too. You can't see where the old stringers were by the time the dry glass is ground off. I hope I have some good measurements, the hardest part for me. I also want to remove the carpet on the hull sides and grind up about 8" before I pull the tent and wash everything out. That will be the next picture and a good day!

Although I went ahead and removed the rest of the sole/stringers in the bow I had good wood and laminate up there so in retrospect it was probably not a great idea. I would have saved myself some materials and some work if I had just left well enough alone and sistered the new stringers in.
 
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Rickmerrill

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The tent is almost gone. Everything that can be ground is ground. I'm going to clean things up and double check all my surfaces just to make sure nothing got missed. Was reading another transom rebuild on the web and the guy used a fiberglass tube for his garboard drain. Got me thinking that might work better than PVC for that and any other place you want to embed a tube in PB or wood. He found a sample pack of different size tubes, about 6" long for around $10. Antenna Sample Pack - assortment of 6 inch long fiberglass sleeves From: Max-Gain Systems, Inc., 221 Greencrest Ct., Marietta, GA 30068 This link might work:
 

Rickmerrill

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Well, the tent is off and the grindings ground! No more itchy for a while!!! Woo hoo!!

Here are a few pictures of what's going on now. Note: Having some problems currently posting pictures.


F8818AA1-824C-4142-B4CA-0C83B8263A11_zpspylzpwoi.jpg

I've seen dry glass everywhere - this is along the hull where the sole meets. I ground some of it just so there will be less dust later.


63DB073F-22E5-40C6-9764-44F167EDBF2B_zpsnjzllw9e.jpg

This is an inside view of the big boo-boo.
 

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tpenfield

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I don't see any pictures coming through, just the broken link symbols . . . (sorry)
 

Rickmerrill

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Thanks. Discovered the issue is I started trying to use upload from URL instead of just pasting the photobucket IMG link. Doing some fixing and cleanup.
 
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Rickmerrill

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Deleted. Sorry, can't get picture to post.
 

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Rickmerrill

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E3E4F926-9F96-44BE-8116-F056EB63AA94_zpspvlgtfdf.jpg


Eternal fountain of water. You can just make out a line about 1/4" from the front of the bilge pump support. That's where my engine mounts line up. Once the supports are glassed in I'll cut this out and do some cleaning as I saw a trail of oil leaching out of the rotted wood. Any ideas on a better way to engineer this? I am thinking of leaving a gap in the middle so that the platform doesn't dam up water.
 
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Rickmerrill

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18336500-C5AF-4A90-A4D2-10CDAC637897_zps3ayxh7eu.jpg


~~The engine support boo-boo. I'm thinking I'll do a layer of csm on the inside with tape/whatever as a backup on the outside followed by a layer of 1708 followed by two layers of csm on the inside to build it back up. Later, on the outside I'll grind a taper about 3" around followed by 1 layer of csm, a layer of 1708 and two layers of csm just so there is something half way smooth to fill. Some filler to cover any imperfections and then gelcoat; wet sand with increasingly finer grit and then buff. Let me know if you think that's overkill.
 
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Rickmerrill

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I'm thinking of using some hairy PB to repair any grinding gouges that didn't go through. For the two boo-boos (engine support cut and transom grind through) I'm following the lead of the guy on boatworkstoday.com. Anything that goes through he considers a structural repair so he fixes it from both sides. The initial layer of csm is just to give everything else something to build on. The 1708 is for strength. The two layers of csm on top are so that you have something smooth to work with especially on the outside. I haven't seen too much info on fixing cut/grind throughs so if anybody as anything to add I'd be appreciative.
 

atjohnson

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Feb 3, 2014
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I checked out link on boatworkstoday.com, I'm not the most educated on filling holes, but from watching the video I think there would be plenty of strength to perform the repair like illustrated in the video.
I also cannot see any of your pictures on this page. Don't know if the links are broken or if my computer is going nuts again.
 

Rickmerrill

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Sorry about the pictures, working on it. Usually when I use upload from URL and post I see the working at the top and then a database error after a couple minutes. If I refresh before the error it seems to work but several minutes later it disappears.

Or maybe I just forgot I'm suppose to just paste the IMG right into the text!
 
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Rickmerrill

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Well, confession time. Some of the stuff lost in the upgrade was JasinIL2006 helping me with my worries about grinding out all of the dry glass found on the inside transom skin. Basically, he said the transom thickness is the most important thing and as long as I get a good bond everywhere I can use PB and clamping pressure to even out any low spots- that advice is spot on. So I got the starboard side in good shape but on the port side I found a spot that just didn't clean up. I knew it was getting thin, it flexed with my finger pushing on it. So I went a little more and pushed and BOING I pushed it right through. It was a really bad day. So, now I get to join the "get to repair the hole" club. Actually, I got two to fix. When I cut the front of the engine support off to check how far the rot went I managed to saw a 4" slot right through the bottom. Didn't even notice it for a few days. That one doesn't bother me so much - like usual when I miss I miss by a mile! I really just did it so none of you ask me to grind your boat. I'm going to post a picture of zee-big-bobo - feel free to call me stupid. That ain't no early moon in the lower left corner! Actually, I posted an inside view of the boo-boo above.
 
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