'90 Maxum 2100SR - restoration & conversion

[PC on the Bayou]

I made the run to Gulfport this morning to pick up CSM, 1708, resin,hardener, and a couple other things. Great people over there at the shop. Prices very comparable to ordering online especially when you co sider shipping g and hazmat fees.

I also went to the lumber yard and picked up some plywood and other supplies. Cut out the new transom wood and now have it gluing up double thick.

Cut the rip cuts for the stringers. Plan to scarf them and glue them up tomorrow.

I am torn between using PL to glue in the transim Board to the hull or to epoxy it in. Probably doesnt matter which. I have some time to decide since I still have work to do on the wood.

 

[todhunter]

At what ratio are you planning to scarf the stringers together? Single thickness of 3/4" plywood? I'm likely doing a transom on my boat too, and am trying to decide what adhesive to use.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

At what ratio are you planning to scarf the stringers together? Single thickness of 3/4" plywood? I'm likely doing a transom on my boat too, and am trying to decide what adhesive to use.

I am doing a 12:1 scarf joint; so, it will be about 8" long. I will be gluing it with thickened epoxy.

I used Titebond III to glue the layers of ply for the transom. I am leaning toward, maybe, using epoxy to glue the transom wood to the hull; but am also considering PB or PL glue.

 

[todhunter]

I'm planning on doing all my glassing with polyester, so I'd rather stick with PB, but don't want to get into a situation where it kicks before I can get it in and clamped.
12:1....wouldn't that be 12 inches long for every inch of height? How tall are your stringers?

 

[PC on the Bayou]

My stringers are 6" high. If I did a scarf using the height dimension, it would be nearly 6' long. I am doing the scarf in the 3/4 thickness of the ply. When I did some research, it seemed that was the way most people did it on stringers. With the epoxy joint, it should be plenty strong. Way better than the butt joints in the original stringers.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Here is a picture of the transom being glued up and after unclamping this morning.





And here is a picture of the keyhole traced onto the transom after I finish cut and rounded off the edges.



Now I am trying to decide how to proceed. Should I drill out the bolt holes and fill them with PB to be water sealed before I cut the keyhole?

Should I cut the keyhole a tad outside the tracing to allow for a layer of 1708 to seal the edge grains?

When I go to glue in the transom, should I go ahead and have a layer of glass on the hull side or glue straight from the hull to the wood if I choose to use epoxy?

I am gonna think about these questions s a bit before I proceed. Gurus chime I. And give your recomendations.

I think I am going to go ahead and scarf my stringer boards and glue them up.

 

[todhunter]

Ah. That makes so much more sense, not sure why I wasn't thinking in 3D. Looks like good progress, and I hope to be where you're at by the end of the year!

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Ah. That makes so much more sense, not sure why I wasn't thinking in 3D. Looks like good progress, and I hope to be where you're at by the end of the year!

Good luck. I started mine early this year and was hoping to be done over the Summer. Unfortunately, the heat gets to me much more than when I was young. Now I am hoping by end of year.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

So to answer some of your questions in order-

1.It may make things easier to drill and fill before the wood is mounted since it’s laying flat. Thickened resin will wreck a jigsaw blade, so cut the keyhole first.
2. Yes, but no need to use 1708. CSM is fine.
3. layer of CSM on the wood if poly, or just seal if epoxy.
4. I wouldn’t use PL or Titebond to glue the transom to the hull. Use thickened resin or epoxy.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

So to answer some of your questions in order-

1.It may make things easier to drill and fill before the wood is mounted since it’s laying flat. Thickened resin will wreck a jigsaw blade, so cut the keyhole first.
2. Yes, but no need to use 1708. CSM is fine.
3. layer of CSM on the wood if poly, or just seal if epoxy.
4. I wouldn’t use PL or ***ebond to glue the transom to the hull. Use thickened resin or epoxy.

Thanks for all the info, BC. I probably could have found most of these answers in the how to links, but the forum upgrade made all of the li Ms go to the wrong threads.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

It’ll take a bit to get used to, but seems to play better with my iPhone.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

I made my first batch of hairy PB today. Neat recipe. I cut out the keyhole and drilled the transom holes oversized then filled them with the HPB. Tomorrow, after it is all completely set I will sand it all even with the wood.

I also scarfed and epoxied my stringer boards. Plan to cut the stringers to shape tomorrow, too.

Will take pics tomorrow, too.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

4. I wouldn’t use PL or ***ebond to glue the transom to the hull. Use thickened resin or epoxy.

Would it be best to make the resin hairy or just thicken it up good?

 

[kcassells]

If no chop strands then it has no strength. Come on... this has been said a million times.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Would it be best to make the resin hairy or just thicken it up good?

If you CSM the back of the transom plywood, then PB without hair is what you do in my opinion. You’re using it to glue the core to the hull, and there’s no better glue. You’re tabbing and glassing it in anyway. Hairy PB you’ll want to use as a filler, such as fillets and bedding. Hope that makes sense.

Plain PB as a glue. Hair in the PB when filling as Thickened resin has no strength.

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Made a lot of progress over the long weekend. Thanks everyone for your inputs and info that you have given so far.

My stringer boards' scarf joints glued up nicely. Found that parchment paper works better than wax paper to protect the joint while gluing up. I put a couple screws in the joints and then sat two of my batteries on them to hold them snug while the epoxy set.after I sanded down the joints, I used my old stringer that I had managed to get out mostly in one piece as a pattern to cut the first one. I then test fit it in the hull on both sides. It came out nearly perfect (nothing the bedding won't take care of). I then cut a matching one for the other side.



I then rounded all corners and cut some spacers to set them up like they will be in the hull. That will help hold them in place when I bed them in.



I also sanded down my transom board where I drilled and filled the places for the thru bolts and the steering relief.



Next on the list will be to glass coat the stringers and transom wood. Hope to get that done this week or on the weekend.

Again, thanks for your inputs. I am learning g a lot and also enjoying the work.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

That’s some really nice work sir!! Thumbs up, way up!

 

[todhunter]

Agreed...great work

 

[PC on the Bayou]

Thanks guys. Was just telling the Mrs. that I think I like working on the boat more than cars. It mixes the mechanical aspects along with some good old wood working both of which I enjoy. Too bad you can't make a living with this hobby.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I think if I added up the time it took to do the complete gut job on my boat, there is no way in the world anyone would pay me. Lol. Guess you gotta be way less particular than me to make a living at this work.