86 Sea Ray Restoration [Splashed Oct 2017]

[Goldie627]

Initially, when I saw your videos, I thought you guys were messing with helium balloons ..... I'll have to keep that Adobe software in mind for any future needs.

Things are pretty tough to find on the new version of the forums, so here is a link to my Formula 330 Bulkhead Replacement project. I started it in December (2013), around the same time you started your boat restore. Pretty much done now and onto pre-work for the season. I even did a few videos, as I was inspired by your approach.


http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...air/650283-formula-330ss-bulkhead-replacement

Thank you :happy: im going to enjoy reading every page

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Corjen1]

Goldie, I love your videos....Dont know why but they come across as 2x speed, as serious as we all take these builds, the "alvin" voice in your videos lends a certain amount of humor to the endeavor....Keep up the great work!!!

 

[Goldie627]

Goldie, I love your videos....Dont know why but they come across as 2x speed, as serious as we all take these builds, the "alvin" voice in your videos lends a certain amount of humor to the endeavor....Keep up the great work!!!

:welcome: Every single last one of us is nuts for doing this! We have to keep a sense of humor or we'd really go crazy for real. I'm glad you like the videos, if anyone is entertained or learns how or how "not" to do something it was all worth it! We should make a side bet, $1 dollar to the man who splashes first! oh wait a minute, let me check your thread again

Also, your hull is coming along nicely, i will soon be repairing some keel damage as well, mines is nasty beach rash, looks like previous owners tried to drive the boat home i think im gonna wait till my stringers are in so i can jack up the hull without making it flex...

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

Hey yall, any tips to get 1708 to lay down bubble free? I'm thinking about wetting out the area, then wetting out the chop strand side on a piece of cardboard then apply the tabbing where I want it, will that help any?

 

[Georgesalmon]

You will find it much faster and easier to wet out those pieces of 1708 on a chunk of cardboard. Then pick em up and put on the boat. Also its a good idea to countersink screw holes in gelcoat so the gel doesn't crack out around the hole.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Its faster and easier to wet out the pieces of 1708 on a chunk of cardboard and then apply to the boat. Just pour some resin on the CSM side and spread it out, then pick up the piece and put it on the boat. You can wet out several pieces at the same time with a big piece of cardboard. Do it right in the boat near where your using it. Easier to roll out too cause the binder has dissolved already. You might have had enough time if you did that. Mixing more smaller batches of resin will help to. Once the resin starts to polyermerise (sp?) or set up in a large batch the exothermic heat build up goes faster and faster until its over. Don't try that with just CSM unless your really fast it will fall apart. Works good with biaxial and WR though, even large pieces if you can handle them. I wet out two layers of 72" long by 36" wide on cardboard in the boat when I covered my stringers with 2415.

Also looking at your drain installation its a good idea to countersink screw holes in gelcoat so it doesn't crack around the hole when the screws go in.

 

[Woodonglass]

GS Makes some good points. I'll throw some atcha too. 1708 Lays down MUCH easier than CSM It conforms to curves much better as well. You'll find that out very quickly. If you're planning on laying a full layer of 1708 across the entire width of the transom covering the side piece and the keyhole then I'd recommend using a large 10" short nap roller to roll on resin on the transom first leaving about 2" of the top dry. I'd have the 1708 Pre- Cut to fit and then using 3" wide Green Masking tape, tape it along the top edge of the transom and drape it down over the resin'd transom and then using a 4" short nap roller start rolling resin onto the 1708 topside to wet it out. If you mix @ a 1% MEKP ratio you should have plenty of time to get it all wet out and in place before it "Kicks Off". Have the corners "Pre Cut" prior to hanging it in Place. I hope this all makes sense. If you're not comfortable doing it all at once, you could to it in 3rds...Wing, Keyhole wing and overlap each section by 3".

 

[tpenfield]

Hey yall, any tips to get 1708 to lay down bubble free? I'm thinking about wetting out the area, then wetting out the chop strand side on a piece of cardboard then apply the tabbing where I want it, will that help any?

I get one of those big disposable baking pans and pour the resin into it. Then I dip the 1708 (or any other cloth I'm using) into the pan and wet one side. Then I 'block' it like you do with pre-pasted wall paper (i.e. fold it in half ). After about 2 minutes, the resin has soaked through the cloth enough that I can just lay it on the area and smooth it out. I usually keep a few pieces in various stages of the wetting/blocking process, so that I can make good time.

CSM is a bit tougher to do, since it basically comes apart as you are working on it. I usually just wet the surface that I am applying to when using CSM.

If you apply resin to the 'top' side of dry cloth, then it will trap air. the trick is to apply resin to the side that is coming in contact with the hull/structure that you are laminating. Air then has an escape route through the 'dry' side of the cloth.

You can also use a resin roller, but I found with my technique of using a tray and 'blocking' I was able to layup of the glass on my recent project without using a roller.

 

[Goldie627]

Its faster and easier to wet out the pieces of 1708 on a chunk of cardboard and then apply to the boat. Just pour some resin on the CSM side and spread it out, then pick up the piece and put it on the boat. You can wet out several pieces at the same time with a big piece of cardboard. Do it right in the boat near where your using it. Easier to roll out too cause the binder has dissolved already. You might have had enough time if you did that. Mixing more smaller batches of resin will help to. Once the resin starts to polyermerise (sp?) or set up in a large batch the exothermic heat build up goes faster and faster until its over. Don't try that with just CSM unless your really fast it will fall apart. Works good with biaxial and WR though, even large pieces if you can handle them. I wet out two layers of 72" long by 36" wide on cardboard in the boat when I covered my stringers with 2415.

Also looking at your drain installation its a good idea to countersink screw holes in gelcoat so it doesn't crack around the hole when the screws go in.

Wow george, thats on some super hero stuff 72 by 36 woa!!! I would have to have my cape on pretty darn tight to try a move like that!!! Thanks for the explanations and advise, im going to try your layup method on the transom.

 

[Goldie627]

GS Makes some good points. I'll throw some atcha too. 1708 Lays down MUCH easier than CSM It conforms to curves much better as well. You'll find that out very quickly. If you're planning on laying a full layer of 1708 across the entire width of the transom covering the side piece and the keyhole then I'd recommend using a large 10" short nap roller to roll on resin on the transom first leaving about 2" of the top dry. I'd have the 1708 Pre- Cut to fit and then using 3" wide Green Masking tape, tape it along the top edge of the transom and drape it down over the resin'd transom and then using a 4" short nap roller start rolling resin onto the 1708 topside to wet it out. If you mix @ a 1% MEKP ratio you should have plenty of time to get it all wet out and in place before it "Kicks Off". Have the corners "Pre Cut" prior to hanging it in Place. I hope this all makes sense. If you're not comfortable doing it all at once, you could to it in 3rds...Wing, Keyhole wing and overlap each section by 3".

Thanks Wood, do you mean one piece instead of covering them individually after the tabbing is done?

By the way, i got my spoons.... i didnt know Betty Crocker was into boat building!!

 

[Goldie627]

I get one of those big disposable baking pans and pour the resin into it. Then I dip the 1708 (or any other cloth I'm using) into the pan and wet one side. Then I 'block' it like you do with pre-pasted wall paper (i.e. fold it in half ). After about 2 minutes, the resin has soaked through the cloth enough that I can just lay it on the area and smooth it out. I usually keep a few pieces in various stages of the wetting/blocking process, so that I can make good time.

CSM is a bit tougher to do, since it basically comes apart as you are working on it. I usually just wet the surface that I am applying to when using CSM.

If you apply resin to the 'top' side of dry cloth, then it will trap air. the trick is to apply resin to the side that is coming in contact with the hull/structure that you are laminating. Air then has an escape route through the 'dry' side of the cloth.

You can also use a resin roller, but I found with my technique of using a tray and 'blocking' I was able to layup of the glass on my recent project without using a roller.

I gave your method a try and it came out nice. It could have been better if i would have only wetted out the chopped strand side instead of wetting out the whole piece. I made some mistakes and it came out ok, if i would have applied your technic correctly im sure it would have been fabulous. I plan on trying your layup method again and nextime ill be much better prepared. I googled "how to block wallpaper" and it told me how to stop people from changing your wall paper in windows 7!! LOL :ranger:

 

[Woodonglass]

Thanks Wood, do you mean one piece instead of covering them individually after the tabbing is done?

By the way, i got my spoons.... i didnt know Betty Crocker was into boat building!!

Yup, On big piece of 1708 to cover the entire transom top to bottom and side to side or like I said do it in 3rds, top to bottom.
Don't be tryin to make no Birthday cakes oughta cabosil!!!! There used to be a member on here that told people that cabosil was edible. It is true that there are some forms of cabosil that are edible, in fact it's what's used to thickine catsup. But I wouldn't advise people to eat the kind used for boats.

 

[Goldie627]

My expectation is for my glasswork to have "no" bubbles. Am i being to hard on myself? Is it even possible to have "No" bubbles? Is this typical in glasswork? Should i accept it and ride out this learning curve? How does the tabbing look so far and be honest!! I cant learn if you guys don't tell me the truth, I want to be the best boat builder i can be or my name aint porky627! ig: i dont have my glasses on, i hope this smiley face is a pig and not a dog, or it will mess up my joke :caked: