86 Sea Ray Restoration [Splashed Oct 2017]

[Goldie627]

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Woodonglass]

Did you read Post# 136? One quart of resin, 1/4 cup CS, 5 cups of Cabosil should be just about perfect for your PB to glue your transom, bed your stringers and make Fillets (pronounced Fill- ets not fill-ays). Make it more like Mayonaise and Not Chunky Peanut butter. Creamy Peanut butter on a HOT Summer Day!!! Looks like you had too much CS and to much Cabosil. When you're ready to make your fillet's use a big plastic spoon to form the coves. For a newb ya dun rite Good!!!!!

 

[Goldie627]

Did you read Post# 136? One quart of resin, 1/4 cup CS, 5 cups of Cabosil should be just about perfect for your PB to glue your transom, bed your stringers and make Fillets (pronounced Fill- ets not fill-ays). Make it more like Mayonaise and Not Chunky Peanut butter. Creamy Peanut butter on a HOT Summer Day!!! Looks like you had too much CS and to much Cabosil. When you're ready to make your fillet's use a big plastic spoon to form the coves. For a newb ya dun rite Good!!!!!

Yes, I usually pick up on all advice, unfortunately, often the videos are recorded on the weekend and it may not be edited and posted till sometime that following week. So it may seem like I didn't take heed of your awesomeness but in actuality the misfortune has already occurred out:

Regarding the transom, originally my plan was to PL the transom, but after considering the void that I wanted to fill underneath the transom I decided to use PB. This would allow me to use the squish out PB for fillets and the void. I mixed the resin and hardener first, kinda light for a little extra working time, I didn't want this stuff kicking off like Sebastian Janikowski before I got done with my fillets!! I then added the chopped strand and mixed again. After that everything was kind of a blur, I started moving fast and I made a mistake. Instead of adding the cabosil a little at a time until I got the right consistency, I dumped a lot in!! Dumb, Dumb, Dumb, I could kick myself because I know better!! I was going too fast because I was scared I would run out of time. From my research it seems like thickening agents don't alter the chemical reaction between the hardener and the resin, thus miss portioning isn't as crucial as miss portioning the ratio of say hardener to resin. I hope that made since. Ultimately, the question is do you think I compromised the integrity of my bond by having too much cabosil in the PB? It seems like it made a good bond. Im just trying to find out if its good, usable or take it out? The only other thing I can add is that as I cinched it down the squish out looked like PB, as I got to the final cinching the squish out was more clear looking. Until I come to a conclusion on this issue I have the fillets on hold, can I move forward with a clear conscious?

 

[Woodonglass]

Oh, it's stuck for sure!!! Move on my friend!!! Lesson learned!!! Make your fillets and Apply your CSM Tabbings.

 

[Goldie627]

Oh, it's stuck for sure!!! Move on my friend!!! Lesson learned!!! Make your fillets and Apply your CSM Tabbings.

Thanks man, I appreciate it :joyous:

I'll be tabbing with 1708...

 

[Goldie627]

When I install my gimbal housing there is only maybe 1 inch or so left at the bottom of the transom. My tabbing is supposed to overlap, not much room to overlap within an inch or so area, any ideas? Thank you all

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Georgesalmon]

Your going to be in great shape. Worrying about "mistakes" made isn't correct. NO mistakes were made that will alter the final outcome enough to make any difference to the final product. Using that paint mixer is good, better than by hand. Commercial bonding putties are always mixed with high shear mixers which are much more aggressive than what you did. What happened is that the styrene in the resin dissolved the binder in the chopped strands and when the bundles came apart it seemed bad but its supposed to be like that. You may have been a little thick but with all the pressure you had its gonna be just fine.

Think on this for a sec. When you put anything into resin like fumed silica (cabosil, aerosil) and Chopped strands they take the place of some resin molecules. So, if you have say a cup of finished PB you DON'T still have a full cup of resin. When you put in catalyst you could actually use a bit less in the putty than you would in the same volume of pure resin because there is less resin in the putty. On a small scale like your doing that's not a big difference but can make it set faster than you might expect. When we used to mix 55 gal drums it did make a big difference. So, I might use a 1% in PB instead of 1.25% in pure resin. You can go as low as .5% in most resins and it will cure properly but that's cutting it pretty close and I'd only do that if your working temps get in the 90's.

Finally, don't cut short the mixing time after you add the MEKP, the better its mixed the better everything will work. I saw a post where someone said you could mix for less time. Be carefull with that advice. Years ago a lot of MEKP was dyed red so people mixed it really well. The dye color disappeared during the exotherm.

 

[Goldie627]

Your going to be in great shape. Worrying about "mistakes" made isn't correct. NO mistakes were made that will alter the final outcome enough to make any difference to the final product. Using that paint mixer is good, better than by hand. Commercial bonding putties are always mixed with high shear mixers which are much more aggressive than what you did. What happened is that the styrene in the resin dissolved the binder in the chopped strands and when the bundles came apart it seemed bad but its supposed to be like that. You may have been a little thick but with all the pressure you had its gonna be just fine.

Think on this for a sec. When you put anything into resin like fumed silica (cabosil, aerosil) and Chopped strands they take the place of some resin molecules. So, if you have say a cup of finished PB you DON'T still have a full cup of resin. When you put in catalyst you could actually use a bit less in the putty than you would in the same volume of pure resin because there is less resin in the putty. On a small scale like your doing that's not a big difference but can make it set faster than you might expect. When we used to mix 55 gal drums it did make a big difference. So, I might use a 1% in PB instead of 1.25% in pure resin. You can go as low as .5% in most resins and it will cure properly but that's cutting it pretty close and I'd only do that if your working temps get in the 90's.

Finally, don't cut short the mixing time after you add the MEKP, the better its mixed the better everything will work. I saw a post where someone said you could mix for less time. Be carefull with that advice. Years ago a lot of MEKP was dyed red so people mixed it really well. The dye color disappeared during the exotherm.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom, your post really puts my mind to ease, now I can move forward

Coincidentally, I was at the boat today and looking at the transom, like Wood said, "it's stuck for sure!!!" that transom ain't goin nowhere!!

Dyed MEKP sounds awesome! Would be fantastic for beginners

 

[Goldie627]

I was just fooling around in photoshop, my truck is black, the trailer will more than likely be black as well, the interior of the boat will be white grey and black, does any of these exterior paint schemes catch your eye?? thinking about a metal flake in the stripe, not sure though....

 

[Goldie627]

 

[Rickmerrill]

How about a little school bus yellow in there to match the gas tank? I'm really enjoying the show BTW.

 

[tpenfield]

Nice work, you are very thorough. . . .

I have not been able to keep up with all of the videos, since I got my hands full with my own boat project . . . but I was wondering, your videos play at 2X speed it seems. :noidea: I'm wondering what sort of video editing software you use, if any.

 

[Goldie627]

How about a little school bus yellow in there to match the gas tank? I'm really enjoying the show BTW.

Black and yellow?? who doesn't love the Steelers?? I really love the school bus but, unfortunately, that rattle can paint turned out to be softer than a baby's bottom At some point i will be taking that paint off to repaint with tractor implement paint, which is more than likely what i will use for the boat exterior, i might even keep that same color on the gas tank! I use ta drive a school bus many moons ago... :happy: Go Sac City Unified School District!!!

 

[Goldie627]

Nice work, you are very thorough. . . .

I have not been able to keep up with all of the videos, since I got my hands full with my own boat project . . . but I was wondering, your videos play at 2X speed it seems. :noidea: I'm wondering what sort of video editing software you use, if any.

Hey tp, always a pleasure to hear from ya. The editing software is called adobe premiere, it has a feature called "speed/duration", you right click the clip in the timeline and select that option (speed/duration) then enter a numerical volume to change speed, i usually use 150 for talking parts and 250 through 500 for working parts. If you need any help just hit me up here or send me a PM. I didnt know you had your own project going, im gonna check it out when i get a chance

tp - i did some lurking around the forum and i couldn't find your project thread, all the threads i see are you helping others, have you posted anything on your project yet? Please keep in mind there's a distinct possibility that i may be blind

 

[Goldie627]

Place Holder

 

[Woodonglass]

A Big Plastic Spoon From the Dollar Store for coving your fillets
Another trick is to dump your PB into a big zip loc bag, cut off a corner and then use it like a pastry bag to squeeze out the PB. Work Great for Filleting especially on long runs when you're doing stringers. Try it when you do the side pieces. I bet you'll like it

 

[Goldie627]

A Big Plastic Spoon From the Dollar Store for coving your fillets
Another trick is to dump your PB into a big zip loc bag, cut off a corner and then use it like a pastry bag to squeeze out the PB. Work Great for Filleting especially on long runs when you're doing stringers. Try it when you do the side pieces. I bet you'll like it

Thanks wood, I'll stop by the dollar tree in the morning, its on the way to the boat

 

[tpenfield]

Hey tp, always a pleasure to hear from ya. The editing software is called adobe premiere, it has a feature called "speed/duration", you right click the clip in the timeline and select that option (speed/duration) then enter a numerical volume to change speed, i usually use 150 for talking parts and 250 through 500 for working parts. If you need any help just hit me up here or send me a PM. I didnt know you had your own project going, im gonna check it out when i get a chance

tp - i did some lurking around the forum and i couldn't find your project thread, all the threads i see are you helping others, have you posted anything on your project yet? Please keep in mind there's a distinct possibility that i may be blind ​

Initially, when I saw your videos, I thought you guys were messing with helium balloons ..... I'll have to keep that Adobe software in mind for any future needs.

Things are pretty tough to find on the new version of the forums, so here is a link to my Formula 330 Bulkhead Replacement project. I started it in December (2013), around the same time you started your boat restore. Pretty much done now and onto pre-work for the season. I even did a few videos, as I was inspired by your approach.


http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...air/650283-formula-330ss-bulkhead-replacement