86 Sea Ray Restoration [Splashed Oct 2017]

[Goldie627]

I wouldn't bother worrying about the compression. It is in 'fine and dandy' zone. With that engine sitting for a few years, it will do it most good to run it. Running it will free things up and clean things out. You aren't going to re-ring it with numbers like that, so why bother with more tests?

I agree Rick, my compression is not perfect but then again its not bad enough to worry about it.

Im looking at a carb rebuild kit from mikes

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Mercarb-Carburetor-Kit_p_3483.html

a few reasons why im thinking to rebuild..

1.) spark plugs are etremely dark after just 15 minutes of running

2.) idle dosent return consistenly, have to press down on linkage, i think there is an internal return spring

3.) not sure about my choke gonna look at it

4.) previous owners removed the carb fuel filter and spring and did not replace it just left it out

5.) recommended by rick :watermelon:

 

[Goldie627]

The breather hose might be best getting the OEM Mercruiser. It is shaped to fit. The one you got is fine though.There is no other component for that port, it just takes a hose. All it does is takes any blow-by and feeds it into the carb so you don't have fumes in the bilge. There is no vacuum, just puffs.

Plugs look like your carb is rich. Probably needs a rebuild. Do not just spray carb cleaner in it. The Mercarb is really easy to rebuild, get all the gunk out of it. Need a kit and some cleaner, brushes, stuff to make sure the ports are perfectly clear like welding tip cleaners and stiff fishing line to get them clean throughout. Make sure the float level is PERFECT.

Yes, you can take the elbow off, but you need a new gasket between the elbow and the manifold. That is how a shop would do it. Gaskets lots cheaper than the time to lift the motor. If the exhaust hoses were newer you could slide them up and remove the intermediate exhaust tube. Damn tough with stiff older ones though.

BTW, use a shop tach to set idle mixture and idle speed. Congratulations. Looking great!

Rick

I found a few parts for the breather they are on the way.

Im looking for a remanufactured carb or a rebuild kit, at this point id rather buy a remanufactured carb just from a time saving perspective, on the the other hand if i rebuild my own i know exactly what i have.

Exhaust manifold gasket on the way.

Im looking at shop tachs incase scott doesnt have one. I see you hook the tack up to the coil grey wire and the ground to ground. can you reccomend any shop tachs (just incase i need to buy one)?

 

[Goldie627]

any tips for float adjustment? for sure i know i need to start with getting a good small metal ruler

 

[Rick Stephens]

any tips for float adjustment? for sure i know i need to start with getting a good small metal ruler

Your carb kit will come with a plastic measuring stick that will work fine. Take the float out to bend the tab, reinstall and remeasure. Do that until it is perfect.

 

[Goldie627]

The Nitrophyl float is like the original. Many prefer the brass which is also available.

which float should i get?

 

[Rick Stephens]

The Nitrophyl float is like the original. Many prefer the brass which is also available.

which float should i get?

If the float is floating, you don't need a new one.

 

[Goldie627]

Update:

Ordered Mike's mercarb kit - PK112
I'm going to:

1. install the water shutter
2. install the trim pump
3. bleed the trim rams
4. check and adjust alignment
5. install the outdrive
6. install the new plug wires
7. install the new brass fuel line
8. install the carb filter
9. install the fuel filter
10. get it running and adjusted the best i can - hopefully will have a shop tach by then
11. pull the spark plugs and clean them with a soft wire brush
12. double check spark plug gaps and install clean spark plugs
13. run the motor
14. pull the plugs - if they are dark again like they were and/or im not happy with the idle smoothness at the recommended rpms, i'll start the carb rebuild

Ordered the nitrophyl float from Mike's - FL10
Nitrophyl is like the original, i believe the brass is for guys who dont get enough fuel in high bank turns. Im a slow cruiser leisurely going from fishing spot to spot :watermelon: I'll dunk test the old and new float, not sure which one ill use yet.

Ordered choke from Mike's - TH1051
I haven't looked at the original choke yet, it may be good, got this to have just in case.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Go man go. Don't be afraid to just do the carb. That one is pretty easy.

 

[Speak]

Update:

Ordered Mike's mercarb kit - PK112
I'm going to:

1. install the water shutter
2. install the trim pump
3. bleed the trim rams
4. check and adjust alignment
5. install the outdrive
6. install the new plug wires
7. install the new brass fuel line
8. install the carb filter
9. install the fuel filter
10. get it running and adjusted the best i can - hopefully will have a shop tach by then
11. pull the spark plugs and clean them with a soft wire brush
12. double check spark plug gaps and install clean spark plugs
13. run the motor
14. pull the plugs - if they are dark again like they were and/or im not happy with the idle smoothness at the recommended rpms, i'll start the carb rebuild

Ordered the nitrophyl float from Mike's - FL10
Nitrophyl is like the original, i believe the brass is for guys who dont get enough fuel in high bank turns. Im a slow cruiser leisurely going from fishing spot to spot :watermelon: I'll dunk test the old and new float, not sure which one ill use yet.

Ordered choke from Mike's - TH1051
I haven't looked at the original choke yet, it may be good, got this to have just in case.

Goldie / you really need to run the motor under load for a few hours then pull the plugs and check em. It's possiable that if you don't they come out blackish and give you a false reading. Rebuild the carb - it's super easy, you won't regret it.

 

[Goldie627]

First off, I apologize for some incorrect info, I've been watching mike's mercarb rebuild video. He says for the high bank turns using a "spring type needle and seat may cause insufficient fuel" (not the brass float like I mentioned earlier). Its a seat issue and not a float issue.

Mike's first set of mercarb rebuild videos were really dark and hard to see. Subsequently, he's made new videos that are alot better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2WiPoD-kuo&spfreload=10 teardown

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fol45QXpm90&spfreload=10 rebuild

He has great customer service and my order shipped in less than 4 hours!! So far, I can highly recommend mikes Carburetors.

 

[Goldie627]

Thanks guys for the encouragement! Being so close to actually float testing the boat I'm scared to rebuild the carb. It looks like i can do it, especially with the help of mike's videos. Heaven forbid and i dont think i would, but.... if i did botch the rebuild, mercarbs arent easy to come by (at a reasonable price). I wouldnt buy a re-manufactured or rebuilt its just too chancy. I would buy new if at all possible.

Im on the fence, i wanna rebuild the carb, im just not sure when. Scott was saying "the carb rebuild could be opening a can of worms." I think thats true but i dont plan on making any mistakes!!!! Let the teardown begin!!!!:watermelon: :bounce:

 

[Goldie627]

Just kidding LOL im still on the fence as to when....:facepalm:

 

[Rick Stephens]

Just kidding LOL im still on the fence as to when....:facepalm:

Meaning before or after lunch?

 

[Goldie627]

Meaning before or after lunch?

Lmao! I eat every half hour! Lol so either way! :watermelon: :behindsofa:

 

[boatman37]

just be sure everything is clean. blow out all passages with carb cleaner then compressed air. and wear safety glasses when you are spraying. carbs really are pretty simple. take pictures or a video of the disassembly so you can reference them if you need to

 

[Goldie627]

just be sure everything is clean. blow out all passages with carb cleaner then compressed air. and wear safety glasses when you are spraying. carbs really are pretty simple. take pictures or a video of the disassembly so you can reference them if you need to

Thanks boatman, im welcoming all encouragement!! :grouphug: i might as well get off the fence and rebuild it. My buddy Scott is against rebuilding it but i was telling him i have more reasons to rebuild than not to:

1. previous owners left the spring and carb filter out
2. previous owners twisted the fuel line (flow to the carb was probally not optimal)
3. I let the carb sit for three years (possible ethanol deposits)
4. new spark plugs extremely dark after 15 minutes, indicates running rich (may not be accurate because of such a short run time and no load)
5. carb is challenged to return to idle consitently, apparently the mercarb has an internal return spring
6. idle is decent but i think it could be better (no hard shakes at this point)
7. now is the time to rebuild, almost everything else on the boat is new except for the motor and trailer (trailer was rebuilt).
8. i just want it to be right, when i go out fishing i wanna be fishing, not wrenching or worrying about anything mechanical.

We are working on our 8th day of 100+ degree weather :target:but this weekend is supposed to cool down a lil bit. I have plenty to do on the boat during the day, the good thing is i can bring the carb inside where its nice and cool and rebuild it at night. :thumb::bounce:

 

[Goldie627]

im heading to the boat and realized i dont have any bellows adhesive to put the exhaust back together, is there any substitutions? incase i cant find bellows adhesive locally

 

[Rick Stephens]

You do not need adhesive to assemble the exhaust. It should be put together dry and most important, clean.

 

[Goldie627]

hay everybody,

I rebuilt the carb, but I hadda use the old float because the new float had no toe marks without the toe marks i was at a total loss on how to take the float measurements. the carb rebuild went very well, i felt really confident about it. unfortunately im still getting a shake at idle.

so far in relation to the motor i have

• new plugs gapped to spec
• new plug wires
• new cap
• new condensor
• new rotar
• new points set to spec
• new fuel filter
• new carb filter
• new chevron supreme gas
• rebuilt carb
• timing was a lil advanced so i retarded to the spec in the manual 6 degrees
• neutral idle set to spec with shop tach
• ingear idle set to spec with shop tach
• air fuel mixture turned in, turned out, found the sweetest spot i could between the two extremes
• idle screw set as suggested in manual
• compression aint bad
• new choke
• new fuel lines
• new air cleaner line with elbow
• new batteries
• new gauges
• new alternator belt
• new fuel sender for gas tank
• new hose with filter that goes inside the gas tank

im at a loss guys, starts right up on the first try every time, the idle is decent but that shake just annoys the hell out of me, im pretty sure it should be smoother

anthing else i can check?

im considering pertonix electronic ignition and coil or maybe a new carbeurator, what should i do first?

 

[Goldie627]

if anybody out there is on the fence about sei come on down and order!!! justin and rob are knowledgeable, kind, helpful, courteous and genuinely care about your project

ive ordered an outdrive, trim pump and various odds and ends

once the boat is in the water and i get a chance to actually use the products ill check in with an update, but so far im extremely happy with sei,

trim pump is installed, works great! i got the trim limit set but my trim sender was in reveres.... i ordered the wrong gauge :facepalm:

when you guys trailer your outdrive do you leave it maxed up or bump it back down an inch or two from the top?