'79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

[Huron Angler]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Been working on my trailer for the little boat the last couple days, big progress there and almost done. Just need to carpet two bunks and then it's back to the SS.

I am waiting on bolting up the transom, since I'm also going to attach the CMC bracket right away too.

I ordered a 16"x3"x1/4" piece of 6061 aluminum, and 2 pieces of 3x3 to use as backing plates for the bracket bolts. Steve used a different term for these earlier, basically they are to distribute the leverage of the motor and bracket out some.

With the added leverage of the bracket they will help a bunch. My dad's 24' Seaswirl has the same, installed at the dealer with his 225hp Yamaha.

I'm even tossing around the idea of getting the SC logo etched into it, but that's probably not in the budget(what budget?:facepalm.

We also had a wedding saturday and t-ball last night...so I feel like I haven't accomplished much lately, that will change soon

 

[lakelover]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

I'm even tossing around the idea of getting the SC logo etched into it, but that's probably not in the budget(what budget?:facepalm.

We also had a wedding saturday and t-ball last night...so I feel like I haven't accomplished much lately, that will change soon

Isn't it funny how as you get along on these projects, things you thought about doing earlier seem to become extravagances later on? I understand the "shrinking budget" syndrome, I think everybody here does! Even when you can't get much done on the boat, it feels good to get the trailer in order, doesn't it?

Every little bit of progress inches you toward the finish!

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Hi Huron, looks like you are making really great progress. My dad owns a vacuum shop and we rebuilt used Kirby vacuums. They were cast aluminum housings and we used a buffing wheel on them to make them shine like new. I think a bench grinder wont have enough torque. We used a dryer motor with a buffing wheel attachement.

Thanks for the info caferocareal, I did not know that you need that much torque to polish aluminum. I've got lots to learn in that area. I still haven't picked up the kit yet.

I have tons of trim that needs some attention.

 

[KellyC]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

I am going to go out on a ledge here and say that a bench grinder with a buffing wheel would work fine. I am saying this because if a buffing wheel on a cordless drill will work then I am sure that a 1/2 horse bench grinder should be more than enough to work for polishing aluminum pieces. I think that it would be easier to use than a drill for a lot of it, but that is just my opinion as I have not tried it yet. I will soon and let you know how it goes.

Kelly

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

I forgot to mention that I'm getting the 6061 aluminum very cheap so I'm pumped about that. It will be about 8 bucks out the door for all 4 pieces. Good thing I have resourceful fishing buddies

Right after I placed the order I rushed to check photos...worried that I would not have enough bolt left to fit the plates, washers and locking nuts.

After experiencing a small amount of anxiety over this I quickly reminded myself that since I'm not bolting up an exterior transom board I should be golden, since the factory board was 1/4" exactly.

Perfect Once in a while things work out despite my poor planning and lack of precision!

 

[lakelover]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Great! It helps to have good contacts when you're in this business.

Perfect Once in a while things work out despite my poor planning and lack of precision!

I like your style!

 

[Piece715]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Ill be watching the thread for some pics of the install as I got to mount mine to the ole '86 sea nymph. I understand the use of the 3x16 to distribute stress but its the 3x3's im having trouble picturing. I was just shopping around and found this site. Pretty good prices I feel and they do custom cuts... https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=239&step=2&top_cat=60... haven't calculated shipping yet hopefully its not too bad

Now with the aluminum... I'm looking at the 6061 and the 5052... 6061 has good corrosion resistance and strength near that of mild steel while 5052 has very good corrosion resistance but is it weaker that 6061?

Great Work thus far Mike! Looks like its a race to the end for both of us but I seem to be dragging :facepalm:

 

[Piece715]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

found my own answer... Just in case u were curious ill post what i found

5052 Aluminum
5052 is the alloy most suited to forming operations, with good workability and higher strength than that of the 1100 or 3003 alloys that are commercially available.

5052 is not heat-treatable, but is stronger than most of the 5xxx series of alloys. It has very good corrosion resistance, and can be easily welded. 5052 is not a good choice for extensive machining operations, as it has only a fair machinability rating.

5052-H32 Aluminum
Minimum Properties Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 33,000
Yield Strength, psi 28,000
Brinell Hardness 60
Chemistry Aluminum (Al) 95.7 - 97.7%
Chromium (Cr) 0.15 - 0.35%
Copper (Cu) 0.1% max
Iron (Fe) 0.4% max
Magnesium (Mg) 2.2 - 2.8%
Manganese (Mn) 0.1% max
Silicon (Si) 0.25% max

6061 Aluminum
6061 Aluminum is, by most any measure, the most commonly used aluminum alloy. It is specified in most any application due to its strength, heat treatability, comparatively easy machining, and weldability. If that were not enough, it is also capable of being anodized, adding a layer of protection for finished parts.

The main alloy ingredients of 6061 aluminum are magnesium and silicon.

6061-T6 Aluminum
Physical and Mechanical Properties Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 45,000
Yield Strength, psi 40,000
Brinell Hardness 95
Rockwell Hardness B60
Chemistry Aluminum (Al) 95.8 - 98.6%
Chromium (Cr) 0.04 - 0.35%
Copper (Cu) 0.15 - 0.40%
Iron (Fe) 0.70%
Magnesium (Mg) 0.8 - 1.2%
Manganese (Mn) 0.15% max
Silicon (Si) 0.4 - 0.8%
Zinc (Zn) 0.25%

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

I believe out boats are made using 5052, so initially I thought that's what would be best.

After some research I realized they will not even touch the hull, only the SS bolts and the transom, so I went with the stronger of the two types of aluminum.

BTW...you are way ahead of me Piece, I have not even painted the boat yet

 

[sschefer]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

The boats are made with 6061 hence the tendancy to crack when welded. 18-8 stainless is the ticket on al boats, I used it throughout my MonArk resto. The new owner hasn't had any problems with corossion at all and I think he's running it in Salt Water.

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

The boats are made with 6061 hence the tendancy to crack when welded. 18-8 stainless is the ticket on al boats, I used it throughout my MonArk resto. The new owner hasn't had any problems with corossion at all and I think he's running it in Salt Water.

Not sure if they switched metals throughout the years, most brochures I've seen claim that they used 5052 from the factory.

Probably not much difference unless you are welding, as you mentioned.

 

[Triton II]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Out here, most plate and pressed then welded alloy boat builders use 5083... and we don't have many rivetted boats like Starcrafts.

PRODUCT DATA SHEET Aluminium 5083 UNS A95083

Aluminium alloy 5083 contains 5.2% magnesium, 0.1% manganese and 0.1% chromium. In the tempered condition, it is strong, and retains good formability due to excellent ductility. 5083 has
high resistance to corrosion, and is used in marine applications. It has the low density and excellent thermal conductivity common to all aluminium alloys.

Typical Applications require a weldable alloy of high to moderate strength, with good corrosion resistance. Marine applications, unfired welded pressure vessels, TV towers, drilling rigs, transportation equipment, armour plate.

Just for your info...

TII

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Don't bother with the Al on the inside, instead get a couple of Stainless or Aluminum Spreaders. I made mine out of 3/8x3x30 Aluminum.

Well, it's kinda funny since I got the idea here months ago from Steve and I ended up with almost exactly what he mentioned for spreaders, even though I didn't go back and check his post until after they were delivered.

Thanks for the recommendation back in January

Here's what they look like on the transom. This should distribute the weight and torque from whatever outboard ends up being bolted on

The lower bolts have the knee brace in between, so they are separate pieces.

 

[sschefer]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

That'll do the trick. Nice job.

Re the Al used. I've found that the when you see rivets you'll find tempered aluminum. The 5000 series is hardened, not tempered and it's actaully pretty soft. My Jetcraft has a 3/16 bottom and 1/8" sides. It's all welded. My Starcraft was 6000 series aluminum and I never measured it but it was pretty thin.

Manufacturers of riveted boats will tell you it's a better design because it can flex and welded boat manufacturers say if you use the proper materials you don't have to worry about flex cracks.

Knowing what I know after the Canyon Cruiser I can easily agree with the welded theory but have difficulty with the riveted theory. It doesn't make sense to me as to why they would use 5083 and then rivet because it seems to me that the rivets would work loose much quicker than if they used a 6000 series. That's just what I'm thinking and my not be the case, I've never tried it before. I do know that when I had the 91 MonArk/Starcraft repaired, it was done by one of the best hull repair shops on the West Coast and they flat out refused to weld it because it was tempered aluminum.

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

So I am pretty much done with my AeroCraft and splashed it on sunday.

That means I can focus on the SS again and start making some progress.

One question I have...should I bolt in the transom before flipping? Or leave it out until the boat is stripped and painted? I can't decide and I'm not sure what everyone else has done.

I'm hoping to get the rest of the paint removed this week and keep things moving.

The boat's been sitting in the driveway in an awkward state of paint removal just waiting for me to get back to it

 

[jasoutside]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Cool man, one project behind ya

I am thinking leaving it out until you get the bottom side all set would be best. I'd be nervous about stripper getting dripped all over it ya know.

 

[lakelover]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Yup, I'd say leave it out until the stripping is done or you'll end up re-doing a lot of your work.

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Cool man, one project behind ya

I am thinking leaving it out until you get the bottom side all set would be best. I'd be nervous about stripper getting dripped all over it ya know.

Yup, I'd say leave it out until the stripping is done or you'll end up re-doing a lot of your work.

Yeah that's more or less what my concern was. That paint will peel right off if I goof and overspray.

I need to get some supplies together and get to work, thanks for the replies fellas

 

[sschefer]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

Yeah that's more or less what my concern was. That paint will peel right off if I goof and overspray.

I need to get some supplies together and get to work, thanks for the replies fellas

I found that without the transom, splashwell and coaming the boat is like a wet noodle. I put the transom, the splash well and the coaming back in before it was flipped to do the hull repair. The shop I took it to advised that I do that to avoid tweeking the entire hull. As it was I had to force one of the stringers back into square.

 

[ChasePhase]

Re: '79 Starcraft SS 16 restoration

HA...You have a boat or two you're working on??