77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

g0nef1sshn

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Feb 24, 2015
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That paint stripping chore is going on all over tin land right now. Everyone is always happy as heck when it's over and that actually signals the starting point of the rebuild.


I would have had it done by now, But I keep waking the kids up at night workin in the garage so its taking a bit longer. It took awhile but I finally figured out the fastest tricks for me to get it done. Next day I have a half to full day without interuptions I should have the hull completed. I will be glad when this is behind me.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Ok guys,

the entire port? side of the hull I started stripping is done, half way there. I did pick up a spray can of the citrus stipper im goona hit the rivets with and a wire brush for a little extra attention to detail on.

I know gluvit is used for seams and rivets on the inside. Is there a specific type of sealer to use along the seams on the exterior hull? I have been removing some grey rubbery stuff during the stripping and want to have "something" along the seams before I put the primer back down.

reccommendations welcome. The searches I have done bring me to gluvit related interior stuff.

Thanks
 

64osby

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Jul 28, 2009
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I have sealed the internal seams with Gluvit and never sealed the outer seam on a couple of boats. They have not leaked yet.
 

g0nef1sshn

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64osby, I hear you and believe in your experience, Its just that there must be something I can do for ease of mind. I guess since Im removing something during this process makes me think I need to replace it. Here are a few pics of the recent play time. I mainly been trying to sand those white lookin spotches. its not paint but some kind of residue left after scraping the paint after the paint stripper. Could this be gluvit used on exterior from PO? Should I even worry about it or just do the acetone and/or vinegar washdown before primer?

I used that 3M sand disc on the other side, But I think its less "hard Labor" to use the stripper first. So ill be doing that as soon as I get the chance again. 20150308_231231_resized.jpg 20150308_231248_resized.jpg 20150308_231322_resized.jpg 20150308_231302_resized.jpg
 

jbcurt00

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I know gluvit is used for seams and rivets on the inside. Is there a specific type of sealer to use along the seams on the exterior hull? I have been removing some grey rubbery stuff during the stripping and want to have "something" along the seams before I put the primer back down.

, Its just that there must be something I can do for ease of mind. I guess since Im removing something during this process makes me think I nee
d to replace it.

I don't see any seams that have been stripped that could possibly need sealing:
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Those chines and keel strip are all applied to the hull, a single sheet of aluminum. IMO, sealing along their edges is sealing water INTO them not keeping it out.

Each of those strips should have a small diameter (smaller then the eraser on a #2 pencil) hole drilled in them at about the midpoint and near the stern end. That too is for letting water out. Sealing the holes shut or caulking the 'seam' where it mates to the hull risks keeping water in them, which depending on where you live, might cause freeze damage.

IF there's a seam along the left side of the 2nd pix I reposted, that seam probably has sealer in it from the factory, if it's compromised and leaking, then maybe that seam could be sealed w/ 5200 prior to priming. Else, like I said, I don't see anything that needs to be sealed.

Refresh my memory.... If you are priming and painting the hull, why strip it to bare aluminum?

Have you water tested the hull looking for leaks and loose rivets? A leak test before repair and again after is a good practice.
 
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g0nef1sshn

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Those chines and keel strip are all applied to the hull, a single sheet of aluminum. IMO, sealing along their edges is sealing water INTO them not keeping it out.

Each of those strips should have a small diameter (smaller then the eraser on a #2 pencil) hole drilled in them at about the midpoint and near the stern end. That too is for letting water out. Sealing the holes shut or caulking the 'seam' where it mates to the hull risks keeping water in them, which depending on where you live, might cause freeze damage.

IF there's a seam along the left side of the 2nd pix I reposted, that seam probably has sealer in it from the factory, if it's compromised and leaking, then maybe that seam could be sealed w/ 5200 prior to priming. Else, like I said, I don't see anything that needs to be sealed.

Refresh my memory.... If you are priming and painting the hull, why strip it to bare aluminum?

Have you water tested the hull looking for leaks and loose rivets? A leak test before repair and again after is a good practice.

I think I know what you mean about the keel strips being applied to the hull and it makes sense now why I shouldnt have to put anything along them. They do have those holes you are talking about also. I am not filling those in.

I was going to sand prime and paint. but closer inspection once I had it flipped over and off the trailer made me want to fix the bubbling/chipping paint that was already on the hull. If it wasnt doing that I probably would have sanded it and painted it.

I have not done the leak test yet. I wanted to get the hull bare first. then do it. Its comming up soon hopefully.

I met the guy for that trailer today. Dang that thing is nice. Only bad thing is that it is a heavy son of gun. Not Gonna be much lifting and rolling around the yard. But while at the meeting spot cabella's, I picked up some marsh tan paint to be the base instead of the brown. It should look a lot nicer that way.

Now I have to find somewhere to store the dang thing until I have this boat ready to go on it.

Thanks for the comments and insight JB. All good info and points made.

I am thinking of tarping the trailer for protection, then finding a way to turtle the boat on the trailer. Ill need some extra muscle around for that project.
 

g0nef1sshn

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it worked with minimal work and help from a neighbors kid who stops by from time to time. i have to move the front winch forward about 3-4 inches, but it will fit in the garage. Storage problem solved, I did forget about the tarp in my excitedness to try it out though. That will happen though. I do not want paint stripper
falling on the new to me trailer.



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g0nef1sshn

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I think Ill even pressure wash the inside hull like this. It will be wet and messy, But thats what makes it fun right?
 

g0nef1sshn

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got the tarp covering the trailer and sprayed the other half of the hull with a can of that citrus stripper. I can still taste it. The kleen strip was a much more tastless poison then this stuff. I did a test strip with the citrus and let it sit for an hour or so and sure enough paint came right off. The spray down on there now will sit for 12 hours. I left the garage cracked on a 5 gallon bucket and a fan blasting out the bottom to air out. If anything this is a trial and error test run for future reference, I have more kleen strip in the event this doesnt work. Hopefully I wont need more paint to redo the garage.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Citrus stuff worked real well on the areas that sanded real good. The bow needed another round of Kleen strip.



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I think the tan might be original primer, the white was the newer stuff. When its just the white it comes right off. The tan is bonded pretty good.
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JBcurt, this pic below explains exactly what you described. I scraped some caulk from the keel seam and it allowed it to drain.

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g0nef1sshn

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well, I couldn't help myself today guys. after cleaning up the rivet line of death you see there in the first pic, I tore into the side. I was only gonna sand that part, but might as well do it all. You can see some blue in there in the side shot too. looks like another layer of some paint to deal with. This side hull was harder to strip. But I didnt pre sand yet, and I used some napa aerosol stripper and aerosol kleen strip. The napa stuff was ok, but kleen strip kicked its butt.



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For the rivet line, if you have to do this area, Load it with stripper and use a while wheel on the drill. Flings that burning melting paint everywhere, but its quick. I probably should use more protection.

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bonz_d

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Coming alone. How much time do you figure you got into stripping so far?
 

g0nef1sshn

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Coming alone. How much time do you figure you got into stripping so far?


I was wondering the same thing today. Its a lot of broken up time really. Yesterday was the first full day ive had I think. Has to be between 15-20 hours. I think I could finish it in 2 days if I had all day and no wife and kids around.
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Paint stripping, lots of fun right there :rolleyes:

Imagine the fun you're missing out on that some of us guys had with a coats over the top of that factory paint. :eek:
 

g0nef1sshn

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For you guys with these starcrafts, when I took the transom aluminum cap that runs over from port to starboard I sorta ruined it/ destroyed it in the removal process. Any of you guys know who or where I can get another one from? It not the corner pieces, its the one the motor sits on.


No new progress recently, Im working night shift for a bit but I hope to get these sides stripped sometime this weekend. I picked up some more of that orange citrus strip since I can leave it on up to 24hours. When I have to take breaks ill coat it up and leave it until I can get back to it. Might try covering it seran wrap this time.
 

dozerII

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When I redid the Naked Lady the aluminum cap on the transom was broken in three places so I had to replace it. I went to a metal fab shop and had them bend a replacement strip from a sample of the old one. Then with the help of about six pairs of hands and a rubber mallet we bent and fitted to the transom.
 

g0nef1sshn

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When I redid the Naked Lady the aluminum cap on the transom was broken in three places so I had to replace it. I went to a metal fab shop and had them bend a replacement strip from a sample of the old one. Then with the help of about six pairs of hands and a rubber mallet we bent and fitted to the transom.


I wil have to look into that dozer. I was hoping for maybe an after market source for it.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Managed to get some work done tonight before PO'ing the so called admiral. 20150313_215232_resized.jpg 20150313_155403_resized.jpg 20150313_215139_resized.jpg 20150313_215139_resized.jpg 20150313_215226_resized.jpg 20150313_215149_resized.jpg 20150313_224525_resized.jpg 20150313_224531_resized.jpg 20150313_215139_resized.jpg 20150313_215139_resized.jpg
 

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jigngrub

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Wimmins just don't understand how rewarding it is to work on a boat. If they would just sit down with a calculator and figure up how much money you're saving fixing up this boat as opposed to buying a new boat, they would all
want use to buy 2 old rotters to fix up so we could double our savings!;)
 

PlayD0h

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Apr 23, 2009
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nice work. A little late for this, but I used to work in a heavy equipment manufacturing shop and we got this stuff called Aircraft paint stripper. I think I even remember reading that Dozer used it also on one of his boats. Anyways, that stuff turns any paint into soup. we would strip super thick industrial paint and it would just wipe away. Pretty serious stuff though. I've never found the same type we used, but there are a few 'aircraft paint strip's out there, Rust-Oleum and Klean-strip are ones I found online.
Again, too little too late I'm sure.
Keep it up.
 
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