76 magnum trihull full project

CapPhil64

Seaman
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
53
I bought this old trihull off the side of the highway for next to nothing with no guarantee except that it floated still. I reconnected control wires that got cut and hooked up gas and a battery and this Merc 50 fired right up. I have since been busy working on the stringers and deck. This is the first boat I have owned and first time I have done any thing like this. Tell me what you think and I gladly take friendly advice!!
 

CapPhil64

Seaman
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Feb 4, 2015
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The ugly interior state I received boat in
 

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CapPhil64

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Cutting out the foam with a good ole knife
 

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CapPhil64

Seaman
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Feb 4, 2015
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Popped the cap off by tying it up to the rafters in the shop and dropping and raising each end of the boat.
 

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CapPhil64

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Did some serious grinding with multiple metal-blending discs. Only a little left to go here.
 

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CapPhil64

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Really starting to get a clean boat here. Can anybody guess where I jump to from here?!
 

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hadaveha

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 17, 2009
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389
Man you are not messing around, once that grinding done it's all down hill
 

CapPhil64

Seaman
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Feb 4, 2015
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I was thinking the same thing with the transom... but the transom was in great shape and so was the back part of the deck. so i jumped to getting the stringers put in
 

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CapPhil64

Seaman
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Feb 4, 2015
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i cut the stringers to fit the rise of the hull and max height of the deck. Then i glued on foam risers to separate them from hull. The foam pieces seemed to work really well holding the board in place on the slope of hull.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
What did you do to determine the transom was in Great Shape? Did you coat the stringers with resin prior to bedding them in the PL? What resin are you using for your build?
 

CapPhil64

Seaman
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
53
I cut the glass off of the transom to evaluate its structural integrity and to inspect for rot. the transom is two 1/2" plywood boards resined together. I'm using poly-resin for my build.
 

CapPhil64

Seaman
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
53
*Stringers after they were glassed in. Had to get more mat to finish the front of the center board. For my first time ever doing fiberglass I am feeling pretty confident about how these turned out. I tried ripping them out for a strength test and i couldn't budge them.
 

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Woodonglass

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You didn't answer my previous question about pre-coating the stringers with resin. That's important so the wood doesn't soak up the resin and starve the glass.;)
 
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Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Are you putting a layer of 1708 on next? What kind of Poly Resin are you using? What weight of CSM?
 

CapPhil64

Seaman
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Feb 4, 2015
Messages
53
Yes i put layer of resin down on all of the boards and hull before tabbing in the stringers.
 

CapPhil64

Seaman
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Feb 4, 2015
Messages
53
I'm not using 1708. I'm not building a race boat or deep sea vessel. I'm using the kind of poly-resin you get from the local boat fiberglass repair shop. My woven is a 24oz and I have done two layers of that on the stringers.1 6"strip & 1 12" strip to top of stringers.I will not put glass on top of stringers because i am using a sealant between deck.I intend to use just two layers of woven on every joint i need to connect with decks and sides of hull. And i will finish with CSM covering the entire deck.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
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Ok, I think you may be mis-interpreting my intentions. You said this was your first boat and first time ever doing anything like this. I'm only trying to ensure that you are following the basic steps in proper fiberglass installation. Not knowing what your basic knowledge is I'm asking the questions that I am so I can ascertain what that might be. I am NOT trying to belittle you in any way. Only trying to help. Woven Roven is perfectly fine to use. It has been replaced lately with the 1708 fabric since it's about the same cost and much easier to use. The CSM is sewn to the fabric and so you actually save a step and saves resin. When using WR, CSM is required between each layer or it won't adhere properly. There's all kinds of Poly resin. Some have Wax added some don't You'll want to ensure that the kind you're using has no wax. If it does and you always put the next layer of glass down before the previous one dries then you'll be ok. But, it the previous one dries before the next one is applied then you'll have to prep it properly in order for the next layer to adhere proplerly. Poly also requires a layer of CSM in order to "BIND" everything together. Again, this link might help with some stuff if you care to look...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
Again only trying to help to ensure your build is successful. I apologize for any misunderstanding.;)
 
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