'73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

[TheSauce]

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

Cool project. Cute pibble puppies too I just got my first a few months ago and she's a sweetie.

you cant really see in the pictures(actually the cattle dog was in one, and if you look the older pit was swimming next to the boat in the last picture ) - but we have 4 dogs; 3 of them pitts. The two pictured are rescued brothers that are 5months and they are awesome little guys. Then we have a 1.5yr old female pit and a 2.5yr old aussie cattle dog mix.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

You can change the thread title:

At the bottom right corner of your 1st post in this thread, click Edit

Your original post will open in a new window that allows you to edit the content of your post. At the bottom right corner of this window click GO ADVANCED

This will open a new window that has a lot more options for editing your post. At the top left of that window, but below the iboats forum banners, there are 2 long white boxes. The upper most box is the thread title, and it should have the current title listed. Just edit it to read whatever you want and at the bottom right, again, click Save

Be sure to edit the UPPER white box. The lower white box is an individual post title/header NOT the THREAD TITLE.


If you have any problems, holler at me, or just PM any mod and ask them to do it for you.

I can't tell much from the pix, but to me it looks like there is some wood inside the transom, it just doesn't extend all the way out to the hull sides. Sort of mirrors the exterior piece. But not being there in person & seeing exactly what you are, it's hard to be sure.

Unless you have access to some pretty hefty aluminum plate, 1/2"+, I'd recommend replacing the existing plywood w/ epoxy sealed plywood that then gets painted. It spreads the load of both the weight & force of the motor across a wider area. Not seeing it in person makes it hard to guess if the existing tin work is wide enough to support the motor w/ out the thickness of plywood.

 

[TheSauce]

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

The wood you see in the pics is a hunk of a 2x4 that the tow hook is bolted through, you can tell because on the port side where the hook is loose there is no wood and just bolts.

I dont want to take the wood out completley, but I just think anything beats stock. I wouldnt mind using wood again but I think I might try to find alum plate(for transom) - the wood just looks poopy to me. Good idea to back out the bolts and reseal with 5200? I need to remove the motor tomorrow anyways and build 2 outboard stands for the trip out to this possible trade.

I've never had TnT so I'm thinking if the motor he has is what he says and is solid, I'm just going to do it without knowing anything about the ones I have.

 

[TheSauce]

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

edit lag

 

[kfa4303]

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

Re: My Old AMFC CRL aluminum Restore

you cant really see in the pictures(actually the cattle dog was in one, and if you look the older pit was swimming next to the boat in the last picture ) - but we have 4 dogs; 3 of them pitts. The two pictured are rescued brothers that are 5months and they are awesome little guys. Then we have a 1.5yr old female pit and a 2.5yr old aussie cattle dog mix.

Awesomeness! The two on the right definitely look like brothers. You've got a whole gang of smart pups there. Those cattle dogs can pretty much do Calculus and balance your check book, if you ask nicely. Looks like they all love the water too. Do they have any trouble getting into/out of the boat? Do you have a ramp/ladder of some sort? My little lady still hasn't been on the water yet, but we'll hopefully get her fist trip in within the next couple months. She' pretty much 100% blue allover except or a bit of white on her chest and tips of three of her paws. Shes already grown so much since these pics were taken just a few weeks ago though Ah well, I guess that's what puppies do. (Sorry to derail the thread, but ya gotta show puppy pics. It's a law or something.) Not to worry you can't go wrong with a Tinnie and a vintage OMC either. They're both super reliable and easy enough for even a moron like me to fix. Keep us posted on the project ( and puppies of course).

)

 

[jbcurt00]

'73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

Hmmm, seems you changed the thread title, but the old title is still showing up as a post title.......

Let's see if I change the title of my post if it sticks................

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

title test

Yep, it stuck... Have to edit my change title info to include changing the post title too...........

 

[TheSauce]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

i love this law; shes adorable! that tongue tho haha:lol:.

Yeah I'm gonna take the 2 I've got two the mechanic tomorrow and see what he says before i jump the gun and trade both for one...I want that TnT tho

Probably no pics tomorrow - rained out and it looks like I'll be doing some driving for parts and possible buys.

Anyone know where I can find documentation/size specifications of the hull/my boat by serial number?(hid number) everything i find wants like $40 ... is this is real life?(googling as you read this) found it
http://boatspecs.iboats.com/Crestliner_Boats__Norseman_19__1973/bp/66b24317

 

[TheSauce]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

well - this is happening tomorrow :joyous:


gonna rent a few things to help the interior hull cleanup along

 

[TheSauce]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

Picked up the gas tank - the guy who had it had a boat he was parting out - what do you know, its a 75 crestliner. almost all of the aluminum trim and whatnot was gone - so no transom cap - but I picked up the tank and a livewell that fit my boat PERFECTLY. This project just keeps getting better and better.

Lucked out and missed the rain - so I did some work with chipping away remaining foam and tried acetoning - is there a trick to this? Using steel wool seems to be doing more harm than good as far as debris goes - that and it missed the crevaces and nooks - which i feel like are most important to clean.

gonna see if I can sell this 2 pt foam because I NEVER want to deal with this again

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

A stainless steel wire cup brush in a grinder or drill will make short work of the foam residue.

When properly installed and maintained the 2 part foam is the best friend you'll ever have in a boat, and it can float your boat like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M30nDtZ4iys

 

[TheSauce]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

Ok, so back to transom questions. I took off the transom caps and still dont see any interior ply. I pulled back the angle bracket that goes under the outboard and couldnt see any...still havnt gotten around to pulling the motor off.

So does this mean its only exterior ply? What else could cause thr.transom plate to crack like that? I did notice there was a not so factory drywall scew that went throigh just.about.where tje.crack was...maybe a light collision?


I was cleaning in the bow ski locker area and found a weld about 5 inches long on interior hull, shoild i have this checked out before rebuilding? Its water.tight and on the outside youd NEVER know. Almost makes me feel like someone at the factory grinded too hard or something and was trying to cover his ***. Almost didnt see it.

went and picked up the 25 gal gas tank yesterday in the guy threw in a live well for the cost of driving.

Pics when i can get out of the garden

 

[Patfromny]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

Hey Sauce,

I have a 77 16' Nordic that I replaced flotation, floors, dash braces, transom, seat bottoms, etc. last year. the transom is under that anodized aluminum cap that is under the engine in your pics. In mine the transom ran the length of the boat to the tie down/tow rings and the rings ran through it. It looks like someone maybe already did the transom before and made it smaller or just cut out the old, rotted ends and replaced with 2x4. either way I would say it needs a changin. My transom was only 18" tall and I felt that at that width it should at least run the length of the boat. I would think that's what cracked that end cap. lots of flex when the transom is a several feet short on either end. In fact, the design is so bad that the gunwals channel water to the back of the boat, under those cracked end caps and right onto the transom. that would rot the ends first I would think. That cap under the motor covers the outer hull and the back of the splash pan. In between them is the transom.

From your pics I saw a piece of alum. track under the 2x4, that is where the transom bottoms out. mine was still those two pieces of alum. all the way to the sides. I would bet the PO cut the alum. out too. I have plenty of pics if you would like. Mine looks pretty similar in design. I just have to remember how to post them. my thread died on the vine and I abandoned it and figured stuff out myself. I will tell you that the splash well or center section of it doesn't need to come out, but the sides did. My transom was truly mulch. and was two 1/2" plys with a 1/4' stuffed in to make up the difference. I replaced with two 5/8" laminated together and epoxied.
If you go to my thread in my sig. there are a few pics where you can look back through the windshield at the transom and see the two ring bolt holes on either side of center splash pan. That will give you an idea how far you should go with yours. Believe me, you won't have trouble finding the pics. The thread died awful quick lol. I went a few inches longer than the channel on each side because it still fit through from the top during install. I hope this long winded answer helped in some way. If you want to see any of my pics for reference, I'd be glad to oblige. Good luck

 

[TheSauce]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

Hey Sauce,

I have a 77 16' Nordic that I replaced flotation, floors, dash braces, transom, seat bottoms, etc. last year. the transom is under that anodized aluminum cap that is under the engine in your pics. In mine the transom ran the length of the boat to the tie down/tow rings and the rings ran through it. It looks like someone maybe already did the transom before and made it smaller or just cut out the old, rotted ends and replaced with 2x4. either way I would say it needs a changin. My transom was only 18" tall and I felt that at that width it should at least run the length of the boat. I would think that's what cracked that end cap. lots of flex when the transom is a several feet short on either end. In fact, the design is so bad that the gunwals channel water to the back of the boat, under those cracked end caps and right onto the transom. that would rot the ends first I would think. That cap under the motor covers the outer hull and the back of the splash pan. In between them is the transom.

From your pics I saw a piece of alum. track under the 2x4, that is where the transom bottoms out. mine was still those two pieces of alum. all the way to the sides. I would bet the PO cut the alum. out too. I have plenty of pics if you would like. Mine looks pretty similar in design. I just have to remember how to post them. my thread died on the vine and I abandoned it and figured stuff out myself. I will tell you that the splash well or center section of it doesn't need to come out, but the sides did. My transom was truly mulch. and was two 1/2" plys with a 1/4' stuffed in to make up the difference. I replaced with two 5/8" laminated together and epoxied.
If you go to my thread in my sig. there are a few pics where you can look back through the windshield at the transom and see the two ring bolt holes on either side of center splash pan. That will give you an idea how far you should go with yours. Believe me, you won't have trouble finding the pics. The thread died awful quick lol. I went a few inches longer than the channel on each side because it still fit through from the top during install. I hope this long winded answer helped in some way. If you want to see any of my pics for reference, I'd be glad to oblige. Good luck

Well that is a really ****ty way of fixing things I hope that you are wrong, but just about everything is telling me you are right. I'll keep you posted, and thanks for the ideas and input - if you can find more pics of your transom work that would be awesome. I'm still sore from moving the engine that was off of the boat, trying to muster up the desire to want to pull this one off All's fair in love and boating though...

On to the little progress I had today:
Started with the wire cup wheel(thanks for the suggestion, for the life of me I seem to always vote for doing it the hard way until someone shows me the light)

Here is the weld spot I was talking about in the bow ski locker spot:

 

[TheSauce]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto


Got a little under half of the bottom scuffed and ready for a good power washing/acetone bath




Sorry for the out of order nonsense - when i get time maybe ill reorganize - here are a few more of the weld

after hitting with the wire brush lightly.

 

[TheSauce]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto



thats it for now folks!

Still looking for advice on the following:

Gluvit - yes? no? (there were no leaks I found, but the weld has me a bit worried)

Pour foam - yes? no? I know that done right its the best option, but removing it was a flippin nightmare - and I'm no pro. I'm worried im going to pour it in and its going to end up being as bad/worse than what the factory did, which clearly trapped water(about 400lbs worth) inside the hull. Im very on the fence on this, as I have the foam already.

transom - wont really know until i yank the motor up, and all these side projects have had me chasing my tail - from what Pat said (thank by the way, somewhere along the line i forgot that) it sounds like I should indeed have an interior transom - and the notion that it was solely relying on the exterior ply was not the case here. I think replacing it whether interior, exterior, or both - is a no brainer on a 40+ year old boat. I'm just so unclear as to how to do it. I read the tutorials time and time again, I still have so many questions. If there is no transom to go off of, and the PO or whoever DID end up removing the old brackets, how do i secure it, how do i measure it and size it? I havnt been able to find a post or site that thoroughly covers the steps to doing a transom on an aluminum boat vs a fiberglass one. Perhaps I'm worrying to much and just need to do it.

Thanks for all the help guys, even just posting my own thoughts here is proving to be a good way to poke holes in my logic

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

Gluvit YES

As for flotation foam, as long as there is enough, I don't have a preference. I only tend to weigh in on the 'I'm not putting any in' discussions. IMO, the problem isn't the foam, it's the lack of proper care & maintenance that's the problem. Once the foam gets water logged, continued poor maintenance & neglect only makes it worse.

I think the Lund video makes a very strong case for using pour in foam, others disagree. But as long as you use sufficient foam, use the foam that YOU deem best for your build & budget.

Cracked end cap, directly under non-OEM drywall screws? Perhaps those screws weren't pre-drilled properly and tied at the dock the cap cracked under stress.

As for the transom, unless you get further input from vintage Crestliner owners, I suspect it'll be hard to determine exactly how they made your transom originally.

If there's no evidence of ANY wood on the interior side, the factory must have only used the exterior plywood. Build it back like the factory built it.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

It is possible it has an all aluminum transom.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

LS2SB, Look thru some vintage Crestliner brochures, many show the exterior wood transom like the ad I posted above. I've seen plywood on the back side of the transom aluminum skin more then once on several different models & years. The question is really whether or not it's the ONLY wood transom................

As for the weld, I doubt it was factory. There's a piece of angle welded in too. Apply gluvit to the interior side of all those welds too. if they don't leak now, no reason to expect them to soon. The gluvit is just extra insurance...

 

[TheSauce]

Re: '73 Crestliner Tinny Norseman? resto

Do I need to really worry about the weld structurally? That is my main concern - like when beaching in sand, or trailering on trips? It looks feels and cuts me like a champ....lol I feel like when i get the chance to turtle this beast i might notice an indent on the outside there - I feel like if you look closely at the bottom lines you'd notice.

The lund video says, "cannot display in your country" or something - good 'ol US of A censorship?

The all aluminum transom idea is possible but I dont think probable, unless you mean with the added piece of wood on the exterior of the stern. I would LIKE to replace the wood with a thick (1/2"?) aluminum plate instead of wood. I just dont like the idea of wood below/on the water line. I could take a picture of the tri-hull we have - it has the same deal with the wood on the outside, except they did it right(imo?). They used some sort of flashing to cover the wood- then sealed it with what i assume is 5200. Thing is solid - I cant see the wood so Idk how they treated that though.




I'll get back to you tomorrow on the possible/probable interior transom. Ive recruited some help to move motors tomorrow.

I hope there isnt a huge mess of mush under the aluminum cap - but better look now than pull my rig from the bottom and pay the fines...


Pat:when you put the weights in there in the foam - you left those there right? for balast or w.e? I like this foam layout - just worries me because the home depot foam sheets are a temporary fix - right? Like they get wet and disintegrate?

will the 2lb can of gluvit be enough for all the seams/rivets/weld on my boat? should i get anything besides acetone to prep the surface?

what type of epoxy should i get for the transom? and what fillers? im about to oder the gluvit so might as well hit some more birds...