73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

I don't think it is a separation it appears the previous owner trimed the outer skin and removed bad wood then used Seacast or similiar to fill the gap. I will make a paper pattern of the transom before I cut anything.

Aren't you removing the entire top cap? If so, the splashwell and Transom cap will come off with it, exposing the transom for repair.

This pic clearly shows the separation of the splashwell and the stern of the hull.
You may need to use the oscillating tool to cut away some of the "GOOP" used to fill the gap but that's about it. Some MFG also "GOOPED" the seam between the top cap and the hull. If so, you'll need the tool to cut that away as well.

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Making a quick pattern of the transom before cap removal.

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Opened the transom cap and no surprises rotted wood.

Ready to lift better make sure my home owners insurance is paid up. The cap with the windshield attached I'm estimating at least 250#. Keep your fingers crossed.

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Well we separated the cap from the hull with no major problems. Thank goodness for my grandsons helping lift off the cap. Heres a couple shots my grandaughter took of the action.

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Now that the cap is off I want to remove the transom wood and repair drill holes and one good size split in the glass. Somewhere on this forum I found how to go about this but can't find it. It's been a long time since I've done any glassing and just want to do it right. If you know which thread addresses plugging holes please post thanks.

Motor mount bolt hole, split where motor was clamped on transom.

 

[Trent4fish]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Got any pictures of those stringers that were under the open bow section?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Hopefully you took a lot of interior measurements of the hull width at various points. It will need to be exactly the same after your restoration work as it was before it was removed in order for the cap to fit back on. Fixing the holes is fairly easy. Once the wood is removed and the interior of the outerskin sanded and you're ready to PB the new transom in place, Simply tape off the holes on the outside of the skin using wax paper and duct tape. The PB from the transom install with fill the holes. You will then sand em down a bit from the outside and lay a couple of layers of CSM over them, Then sand, Fair and apply the finish coat of whatever you'll be using.Check this for info on Transom,Deck and stringer fabrication"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Not yet still need to remove whats left of the floor.

Got any pictures of those stringers that were under the open bow section?

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Oops No I didn't get too many measurements but I did matchmark the cap to the hull I should be okay. I planned on filling all the holes by using your technique before installing the new transom. I am going to clamp in place and use PL 5200 or similiar to install the transom then use PB around the edges and tabbed in with two layers of CSM. The existing plywood is 1". I will be using 1" CDX for the new core. Thanks for your info.

Hopefully you took a lot of interior measurements of the hull width at various points. It will need to be exactly the same after your restoration work as it was before it was removed in order for the cap to fit back on. Fixing the holes is fairly easy. Once the wood is removed and the interior of the outerskin sanded and you're ready to PB the new transom in place, Simply tape off the holes on the outside of the skin using wax paper and duct tape. The PB from the transom install with fill the holes. You will then sand em down a bit from the outside and lay a couple of layers of CSM over them, Then sand, Fair and apply the finish coat of whatever you'll be using.Check this for info on Transom,Deck and stringer fabrication"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Never seen 1" CDX. If you want you can laminate 2 pieces of 1/2" to get the 1" Are you sure the Original was only 1". Typically they are 1 1/2". It's critical to keep the top of the transom to the correct thickness so the cap will fit back on. I'd Highly recommend using PB to Glue the transom to the outer skin and not the PL. It will be much faster and stronger. You will need to wait 3-5 days to start glassing if you use the PL. PB you can start glassing in 30 mins. If you use the PB to install the transom no need to prefill the holes. I can all be done at the time of installation.

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

I finally got out the garage this afternoon for an hour to see how tough it will be to remove the old transom. So far not tough at all as you can see. Now if I can begin the grinding of the glass. I'll be glad when this phase is done the dust gets in your tyvek suit, gloves etc and does it itch.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

TIP: Baby Powder, and Lots of it Prior to suiting up. Rubber band cuffs and sleeves. Use Nitrile Gloves an duct tape em at the wrist. Vaseline on your face.

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Actually it's closer to 15/16" than 1". The previous owner cut away most of the cap and chipped out about 1/2" of rotten wood and replacing with Seacast. I plan on cutting the new transom to the same height as the old one then capping it off with a couple layers of CSM. I'll wrap the CSM a couple of inches on the inside of the splash well over the upper edge of the transom and down the outside of transom a couple inches. Then reinstall the trim. If I fill all holes as you suggest using PB can they be redrilled later? These holes can be filled with transom iabbed in?

Never seen 1" CDX. If you want you can laminate 2 pieces of 1/2" to get the 1" Are you sure the Original was only 1". Typically they are 1 1/2". It's critical to keep the top of the transom to the correct thickness so the cap will fit back on. I'd Highly recommend using PB to Glue the transom to the outer skin and not the PL. It will be much faster and stronger. You will need to wait 3-5 days to start glassing if you use the PL. PB you can start glassing in 30 mins. If you use the PB to install the transom no need to prefill the holes. I can all be done at the time of installation.

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

I got around to opening up the bow floor and of course it is ugly. I did an oops twice by zinging a couple of holes in the hull not too serious though.
Bow end opened up.

Foam removal begins.

Got any pictures of those stringers that were under the open bow section?

 

[SKEricsson]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Well I have to say, it looks pretty much how I imagined it would under there! My idea was to build a cradle for the boat with supports up the sides to hold the hull to form before the cap came off. This would hold the hull to it's original shape, which you could still do. This also would have ensured that the hull was straight and true when the new stringers went in and we didn't mold in the impressions from the trailer rollers into the hull as the stringers when glassed in will hold the hull in whatever shape it is at that time. Now that you have it on a bunk type trailer, it's not so much of an issue, but it would be a good idea nonetheless. You can see the repair where the front trailer rollers punched through the hull, they actually did a pretty good repair there. I made the assumption that this is probably why the original floor came out to facilitate this repair. Unfortunately, they didn't follow through on the rest of it, just laid some treated 2x4s in next to the rotted stringers and shlocked in a floor over the top of it.

This will be such a cool boat when you are finished, that it looked so nice on the outside made it really tough for Wannafish to give up on it. Time and cost, however, were just too much to overcome. Really looking forward to seeing this project happen, I registered here at iBoats just for this!!

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

Spent part of the day prepping the transom glass to accept the new wood whenever I decide what I'm going to use. The original transom thickness appears to be two pieces of 1/2" plywood sandwiched together. I have noticed Silverline sure took some shortcuts when they built this one. I plan on replacing the wood as original design.

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

The original transom thickness appears to be two pieces of 1/2" plywood sandwiched together.
View attachment 179394

Found this link. I thought it might help with the whole transom thickness descion, I didn't see anything in the thread about what motor you plan to use.

Squirt mini runabout boat plans for plywood construction 2

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

According to this site I can use up tp 85hp but I want to stay around 40hp or so. Boat: 1973 Silverline Comoro 15T

Found this link. I thought it might help with the whole transom thickness descion, I didn't see anything in the thread about what motor you plan to use.

Squirt mini runabout boat plans for plywood construction 2

 

[barbless]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

By comparing the cap measurements to the hull I believe I'll be fine when it comes time to reinstall the cap. I think I'll install the floors after the cap is on. This will give me some wiggle room in case I need it to mate the cap to the hull. I should have the transom install well under way by mid-week.

Well I have to say, it looks pretty much how I imagined it would under there! My idea was to build a cradle for the boat with supports up the sides to hold the hull to form before the cap came off. This would hold the hull to it's original shape, which you could still do. This also would have ensured that the hull was straight and true when the new stringers went in and we didn't mold in the impressions from the trailer rollers into the hull as the stringers when glassed in will hold the hull in whatever shape it is at that time. Now that you have it on a bunk type trailer, it's not so much of an issue, but it would be a good idea nonetheless. You can see the repair where the front trailer rollers punched through the hull, they actually did a pretty good repair there. I made the assumption that this is probably why the original floor came out to facilitate this repair. Unfortunately, they didn't follow through on the rest of it, just laid some treated 2x4s in next to the rotted stringers and shlocked in a floor over the top of it.

This will be such a cool boat when you are finished, that it looked so nice on the outside made it really tough for Wannafish to give up on it. Time and cost, however, were just too much to overcome. Really looking forward to seeing this project happen, I registered here at iBoats just for this!!

 

[wannafishalure]

Re: 73 15' Silverline Comoro transom and stringer replace

You are moving right along with this. You will probably be done before I am.