72 Thunderbird Formula w/twin 165hp Mercs

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Wisdom!!! Very Nice, Clean installation of your tank! Who ever the next owner of this boat will be, should be ever grateful for you GREAT attention to detail in the restoration of this boat.

 

Mark72233

Ensign
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
926
I screwed up and didn't have any drain lines for the spaces between the inner and outer stringers. This area is about 10' long and 15" wide and runs from under the cabin seats to the rear bulk head. My plan in this area was rod storage with access from the cabin or from the cockpit deck so water is going to get down here and needed a path to drain down into the bilge. So I rigged up some PVC pipes and 5/8 rubber hose. The PVC is sealed in PB so if it works as intended water will drain to the rear of the rod storage area and then down to the main bilge drain and end up in the bilge.
 

Mark72233

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Jul 11, 2014
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Ok I have all the bulkheads installed and installed 2x4 braces that run port to starboard. 3 of the supports will be where the seams are going to be on the deck. With all the stringers, bulkheads and bracing I shouldn't have any flex issues with the deck which will be 3/4" ply covered underneath with a layers of CSM then bedded to everything with PB and 2" SS screws. On the top it will be PB on the sides tabbed in with CSM and 2 over lapping layers of 1708. I was then going to cover the deck in 2 layers of 1708 covered by CSM.

 

Mark72233

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Jul 11, 2014
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I also cut out 2 of the 3 deck pieces of plywood. It will be weird having a deck to walk on. Then it will be time to start rebuilding those Chevy 250 Inline 6s. Funny thing on the engines. I still have one of the original engines which I was going to use for parts or even a spare. I also have 2 engines and stern drive packages I found bought last year as well as two long blocks for spares. I ran all the block numbers to see what year they are from and found out that the engine out of the boat is not a 250 it is a 292. My dad always thought both engines were 250 cubic Inch engines and we could never get both engines to top out at the same RPM range at wide open throttle. Knowing that one was a 250 and the other is a 292 might have explained that one:joyous:



 

nurseman

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Jun 2, 2013
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Mark, you are doing a fantastic job! LOL about the engines. Nice work on the tank install and drain lines.:clap2:
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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What's your final deck finish gunna be? 2 layers of 1708 is WAY OVERKILL IMHO!!!! If you tab the deck to the hull sides with CSM and a layer of 1708 and then follow up with a Full layer of CSM and then a final layer of 8oz fabric that's really all that's needed on a deck. Heck 2 layers of CSM would do the trick too! You're really looking for waterproofing mostly. The 1708 gives you the tie-in strength that's needed. But that's just me and I AM an Old Dumb Okie!!! The rest of your work is looking good as always!!!:yo:
 
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kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
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8,715
That's some really nice work Mark! I love the 2x4 cross members you used to add the ply decking onto. Great work and great ideas! You are cruising. Now I know why we haven't heard to much from you. You've been real busy!:yo:
 

Mark72233

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Jul 11, 2014
Messages
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Wood, thanks for the advise. I wasn't sure how much I needed and of what kind. I don't have any 8oz clothe just the CSM and the 1708. I will check with my local resource, I am sure they have it in stock. And like I told you before you can stop with the "Old Dumb Okie" those of us that have done our share of researching know better:hail::thumb: You are usually spot on with your advise. Nurseman & kcassells thanks for the kind words.
 

Mark72233

Ensign
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Jul 11, 2014
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Thanks Arch compliments from you guys means a lot. I am just trying to rise to the standards you guys have set on this forum.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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Wood, thanks for the advise. I wasn't sure how much I needed and of what kind. I don't have any 8oz clothe just the CSM and the 1708. I will check with my local resource, I am sure they have it in stock. And like I told you before you can stop with the "Old Dumb Okie" those of us that have done our share of researching know better:hail::thumb: You are usually spot on with your advise. Nurseman & kcassells thanks for the kind words.

Here's the deal. IF you're gunna Gelcoat or paint the deck and want a bit of texture to it then the weave of the 8oz cloth would bleed thru an provide that. If you're gunna Gelcoat and just want to ensure a good watertight deck then another layer of 1.5oz CSM will do the trick since the wood already will have a layer of CSM on it. Two layers of CSM will adequately protect it, and the Gelcoat will seal the deal. You could then carpet or use vinyl or whatever. You actually wouldn't even have to gelcoat it. You could go right over the glass. I would prolly add some wax to the final coat to give it a bit of added waterproofing and take the tackiness off of it. That's what and OLD SMART OKIE would do!!!!!:D
 

Mark72233

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Jul 11, 2014
Messages
926
Thanks Wood. I definitely don't want carpet in this fishing and diving machine. There will be fish blood on the deck every time I go out so it will be painted. As far as Gelcoat versus paint I am leaning towards painting. The entire boat needs redone. The gelcoat on the cap is cracked and well past being able to save it. The sides and stern need a ton of cosmetic work so it will need to be re-gelcoated anyway. Gelcoating is not off the table yet. I have a friend with a very nice paint booth and all the equipment needed. He has only painted cars though and has never worked with gelcoat before. I am looking to finish the rebuild of the boat and engines and shooting to get her splashed by summer. I was going to tackle making her pretty and perfect after the season. So I was thinking of painting the inside with a good quality paint not gelcoat. The deck needs a little nonskid to it also. Thanks again for any and all input and suggestions. Keep them coming.
 

Mikeopsycho

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
738
Wow! Great tank install and nice glass work! You're doing mighty fine work! Carry on.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Well this is why I Tell everyone I'm an Old Dumb Okie. Back when I used to Build Pools we used a similar product around the pools and it worked Great!! I'm wondering if I'm DUMB to suggest using it as a Boat Deck covering??? It's easy to cut and form to a shape, Drains water easily, anti skid, UV resistant, comes in a variety of colors and easily removed if needed kinda like snap in carpeting. Sooo tell me I'm crazy or Dumb or whatever. It's just a suggestion. Whatcha guys think???

http://www.amazon.com/BlockTile-B2US.../dp/B009RI6JWY
 
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Mark72233

Ensign
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
926
Electrical question and for the record I am an electrical idiot. My dad was the guru in that department which made me lazy and dependent on his expertise. My new tank has a grounding tab welded to the top. My plan was to clean off all the paint so I have good contact there. I also will have a metal fill port on the gunnel so I was going to attach a ground wire there as well. My understanding is to run the ground wire from the metal spout down to the tank. Is that enough or should I also run a wire from the tank to the negative side of one of the batteries or a negative buss under the helm. I understand this is to insure both have the same (Potential) is the term I have seen most. To avoid static discharge while filling the tank.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
Thats a great question;

Fuel_Tank.jpg
 

nurseman

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Jun 2, 2013
Messages
1,045
I'm no electrician either, but I would think that you would need to connect it to a neg terminal, either on a battery or on a block somewhere. I could be wrong...
 
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