70's era 15' Yarcraft yankee project question

[Woodonglass]

Nope, if it was only 6 hours and still tacky it was NOT Amine Blush!!! That only occurs after a full HARD Cure. Hmmm...not sure what could have cause this??? Kinda Strange!!!!

 

[oba97]

Ok. I think with the small size of the boat and only 50HP I'll sand those suspect areas and add another layer of glass and move on.

 

[saginawbayboater]

Hi neighbor, mind if I tag along? Looks like a fun build, and you are doing a great job!!!:thumb:

 

[oba97]

Absolutely. I haven't touched the boat in a while as my honey do list needed some attention. I hope to get back at it soon!

 

[oba97]

How do I transition the carpet from the deck to the side walls? The carpet will be 8' width so I cannot do the whole thing at once. I was thinking that I carpet the deck and then the sides. Just not sure how to make a nice seam?

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Couple of ideas would be to make a trim strip to hide the seam, or lay the carpet so it goes over the deck/hull seam and partially up the hull then hide it with side panels from the floor to the gunwale.

 

[oba97]

I like the trim idea. I could wrap it in the carpet material so it matches.

 

[oba97]

I'm finally getting back at the boat. I have the stringers installed and the deck cut and close to putting it in. Looking a head I have a couple of questions.

1. I read Woodys deck layup schedule. If I understand right because I am using epoxy I only need one layer of fiberglass? I was going to do 1 layer of tab and then one layer of 6oz fiberglass. Is this sufficient?

2. I am thinking about screwing the cap to the hull vs using rivets (rivets is what was original to the boat). Any issues with doing this? I was thinking about using self tapping sheet metal screws as I can get them in a short length. Thoughts?

 

[Woodonglass]

Yes on both. Do the tabbing first then Coat the deck with resin and then apply the cloth with another coat of resin.

 

[oba97]

Ok thanks. I lost some wind during the winter but the itch (the good kind) is back.

 

[oba97]

No Title

When I was doing my demo I took out (what I'll call) a storage cubby on each side wall. They were a piece of 1x2 fiberglass end to the hull then there was a 1/4" x~6" high x 6' long piece screwed to it. I'm sure my description is not good. I don't plan on reinstalling unless it's a structural item. Any thoughts? Here is a pic minus the 1/4"x6'

 

[oba97]

Now that I am getting close to putting the deck back on I wanted to ask a couple of questions before I start.

1. I have drainage holes in my bulkheads so if/when water gets under my deck it can make its way back to the bilge. I'm not making a mistake am I?

2. My boat didn't come with foam in the floor (it's up under the gunnels). I didn't plan on adding any under the deck but should I?

Thanks in advance

 

[Woodonglass]

As long as the holes are properly sealed you're fine.

I cubic foot of foam will float approx. 60 pounds of dead weight. Some parts of your boat will float so what you need to calculate is how much of your boat will actually sink if a catastrophic event would occur. That's how much foam you need. If you think you have enuf...OK. If not...then I believe you need to do what needs to be done.But..as always it IS your boat and you're free to do as you see fit.

 

[Carpenter2486]

hello! this is an interesting build! i wouldnt mind tagging along eather! looking great!

 

[oba97]

No Title

So I ended up filling the spaces with pink foam. Not exactly sure how many cubic feet but the boat didn't have any under the deck to begin with and there is foam in the gunnels so I think I should be set??? I hope fillet and tab the deck in on Friday

 

[Woodonglass]

Use this formula if you want...

Length x width x depth in inches and then divide by 1728 to get cubic feet.

 

[oba97]

No Title

Complete change of direction but I was hoping someone will educate me on my controls. I know what the main lever is for (F N R) But what is the smaller one for? There is also a 'receptical' looking thing on the front, that is that for? Here are a couple of pics. I've never ran a outboard before so excuse my ignorance

 

[oba97]

No Title

The deck is in....

 

[oba97]

No Title

I have yet another question (lots of time to think about next steps). Do I need to fill the holes from the old rivets then re-drill when reinstalling the cap to the hull or can I reuse the old holes? There was, and I will reinstall a 1/2" strip of wood behind the lip on the hull that the rivets used as a backer. There were larger diameter rivets holding the hull to the cap and smaller diameter rivets holding the rub rail on (There are pics I think on page 3). I was thinking of using screws instead of rivets but im not sure if I use screws the head will not allow the rub rail to sit flush? Im a little concerned about drilling new holes as there are a lot currently and I dont want to weaken the lips too much. Hopefully you can see how it was originally in the attached pic.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Not a Merc guy so no help just guesses on the controls, if not for the main harness perhaps it's an accessory power tap?

Perhaps a layer of 1708 is in order to reinforce the lip and would have the byproduct of filling the holes in the process. For the hardware I'd stay with rivets as they won't back out like a screw.