70's era 15' Yarcraft yankee project question

[oba97]

I don't know why my pictures are uploading sideways?

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Try tilting your head the other way when you upload them. LOL

I'm no expert but I'd say as long as it is back to square you're good. Shore up your cribbing as best as you can so hopefully it'll stay that way.

 

[oba97]

I'll have to try that . I've got extra support and its rock solid now. But I do have another question. Has anyone ever seen a 1 1/4" thick transom? That's what it measures. I know there isn't 1/4" of wood left on the outer skin. It looks like they might have laminated 3/4 and 1/2" together?? I've reached out to Yar-Craft but with no response. As a reminder it's a 15' with a merc 50hp. The max motor that I can have is a 75hp.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to tab in the new transom before pulling the stringers.

 

[Woodonglass]

It could only be 1 1/4" but it won't hurt to make it 1 1/2" as long as the top cap will fit back on. You could always router a lip on the top edge down to 1 1/4" to allow the top cap to fit and leave the rest @ 1 1/2" That's prolly what I'd do.

 

[oba97]

I was wondering if that would be ok. I dont think 1 1/2 will fit as the splash wall was right up against the transom. Good idea on routing out just the needed.

 

[oba97]

No Title

I have my plan of attack, well two plans and am curious what people think. Yesterday when I was setting up my tent over the boat I noticed that the hull would flex when I stepped on an area that was not well connected to a stringer. This got me to thinking that maybe I should do the removal and replace in stages versus taking all the wood out at once. Having never done this before I don?t know what is ?normal? for hull flex when walking in it. I assume once I remove the stringers it will only be worse?

With that said here are my two options?

Option 1

1. Grind down the remaining wood on the transom skin.
2. Build new transom using ?? ACX plywood glued with PL Premium
3. Attach transom to the hull using PL Premium
4. Remove port stringer
5. Grind to good glass
6. PB in new stringer
7. Remove starboard stringer
8. Grind to good glass
9. PB in new stringer
10. Remove dagger stringer
11. Grind to good glass
12. PB in new stringer
13. Do all glass work for transom and stringers

Option 2

1. Remove all stringers
2. Grind down to good glass on whole boat
3. Build new stringers and transom
4. PB in new wood
5. Do all fiberglass work

Another question I have been wondering is if it?s normal for the fiberglass to be so dark like it is in the stringer area compared to the sides?

Here is a few more pics. The tent doesn?t cover the whole boat at once but I can close the ends and move as needed. I think it should work fairly well but probably will get hot!

 

[Woodonglass]

If the hull is flexing, add more support under it. I would not use construction adhesive to glue the plywood together OR to adhere it to the outer skin. I'd use Titebond III wood glue and screws and then stick it to the boat with PB. Do the Stringers attach to the Transom??

 

[oba97]

yes, they were butted up to the transom and 'lightly' glassed together.

 

[Woodonglass]

Well, then since they're attached, IMHO you should remove everything, ensuring the hull is supported properly from below and then fabricate and install the transom first using the method described here...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms and then fabricate and install the stringers as described in the same link..

 

[oba97]

No Title

I have been doing some grinding and have another question. While grinding where the stringers were I started to see some blue glass. The boat is blue so I am thinking I am grinding too far down and getting into the gel coat? The only thing is, it looks like there are fibers in the blue and in one of the pics it almost looks like the blue is sitting on top of the 'brown' glass. Any insight? If this is gel coat can I just epoxy a layer of 1700 biax (I have decided on using Epoxy) on top of the area and call it good?

 

[Woodonglass]

You're fine! Resin comes in many different COLORS. Blue, Green, PURPLE!!!! You are NOT into the Gelcoat.

 

[oba97]

Phewf . Having no experience I have no idea how much I should be grinding other than looking for pink. When I saw blue I got a little nervous.

 

[oba97]

I'm trying to decide what to use to replace my stringers. The old stringers are made of 1x2 and 1x8. The actual measurements of the 1x2 is 3/4x1 3/4. I'm debating in if I replace with dimensional lumber or rip some 3/4 ply. The two small stringers are only 8' long so I could easily do either. The 1 x 8 is 3/4 x various from front to back. It's 15' long so not sure how to make a 15' 3/4" board? Thoughts?

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

I'd make them out of some good ply, it's more stable and no worries of natural defects that could come back to haunt you.

For the 15' you'll scab/sister (glue and screws) together two 8' pieces as such (butt block)



Or for ultimate strength you could use 3/8" ply this way to make a 3/4" stringer



For your application though the blank would have one side made out of two 8' pieces and the other made from a 4,8,4 combination. The splice between the two 8' sections being centered on the single 8' section of the 2nd side.

 

[oba97]

Thank you TDF. And I have yet another question.... When I was grinding today I tried just a hepa filter on my Scott full face respirator. While I don't think I was inhaling fiberglass I could smell it. When I was grinding the last few times I used a filter for VOC as well as the hepa and could not smell anything. So here is my question. Does anyone know if just the particulate (HEPA) filter is fine or should I be using the VOC with HEPA?

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

I think you're ok with just the HEPA (if I'm wrong hopefully I'll be corrected) Of course unless the smell bugs you then use both.

 

[Woodonglass]

IMHO you don't want to be able to smell it!!

 

[oba97]

No Title

made this up to try and help. Filter will probably clog quick, but a cheap try. Once again my pic are sideways. Only happens when I post from my phone??

 

[Woodonglass]

KOOL!!! Let us know how it works!!

 

[oba97]

I got to try it out last night. I set it up so the box was half in the tent and half out. My thought was I would be pulling the dust into the filter and pushing 'clean' air into the garage. It was working very well at the start until the filter clogged up. I got about 45mins of grinding where the air was pretty clear then I could tell that the dust started hanging in the air telling me that the filter was plugged. I think it was pretty successful considering the amount of dust that is created. I will get a pic of the filter when I get home from work. The only thing I could not tell is if particles passed through the filter and was pushed into the garage? I typically have a haze of dust in the garage when I step out of the tent because the tent is not completely sealed. Im not sure if it was any better or worse this time?

Ideally I would have a tube that would run from the discharge of the fan to outside my garage, but at this point I don't have that much grinding left to do so probably not worth the effort.