'69 offshore rebuild- BMerr

[BMerr509]

Interestingly enough, the bolt pattern matches the above pic by OldHaven. I could leave them for now, install the new transom, then fill them in later if needed. I'll be returning Sept 30th and the transom will need a flip and 3 more coats on the backside. BTW, it is solid, I'm thinking a 90 merc 4 stroke. I'm having trouble determining if i should use MG plywood or Ext grad plywood. I'll go back and fouth a hundred times between now and then anyways. Can't wait to rejoin ya'll back in the states!

 

[Watermann]

Be safe over there, we'll keep things tight here while you're away. :thumb:

Personally I have only used MG ply once for a transom and that was my SN. I was able to find some really nice ext ply and used it with no issues at all. On my SS I'm working on I've gone totally ext grade, I found 5 layer 1/2" for the deck with few voids and I used ext for the transom too. Before it goes in I fill level any external void I can find with 5200.

 

[ctswf]

Woow woooow, what do we have here, a 1969 offshore V!?! Someone was supposed to drive to CT and bang on my door if im not around!

Hey bmerr509 i just saw your post in my restore thread about paint, moving the boat etc. Looks like im late to the game and you're past that point but any more questions im happy to answer them!

Few things off the top of my head...
The splashwell mod was totally worth it, i might even go smaller next time

I used self etching primer over bare spots, then rustoleum metal primer, then rustoleum metal boat paint.
Its ok but years later i do have some chipping now.

I highly recommend fiberglass mesh on the floor to prevent wood checking

70hp goes 32mph

Boat still catches stripers today!

 

[BMerr509]

Hey CT- Thanks so much for your thread, I've reviewed it about a million times and saved some of your pics to get ideas. On the splashwell, it's already out so i figured i could do exactly what you did, maybe a bit shorter actually. cutting/overlapping the main cross beam is genius and i'll do that as well. I painted the boat with the idea that it would be a massive failure, and it may be, but idc. I'll probably have to redo it at some point INDOORS. Good idea on the Fiberglass, i was debating that in my head. If i go that route, i'm going to only use the ext grade stuff.

If your 70 2 stroke goes 32, i'm confident a 70 4 stroke would go at least 30, which is perfectly fine with me. New motor won't happen for a while anyways. Thanks again.

 

[ctswf]

I epoxied all sides of woods, a few coats, and basically any wood that got direct sun exposure started to check pretty quickly. Marine grade or not. ClassicCat advised the fiberglass matt as a fix and he was right, no more checking years later. Also note the instructions on the epoxy, at least the brand i used cant be left in the sun so i painted a few coats of non skid on it which held up pretty well over the years.

The transom i had not put any matt on, the only exposed part is seen under the splashwell and there is no checking what so ever...because no direct sun maybe? I think its because the floor gets CRAZY hot in the sun


Nick

 

[BMerr509]

Sorry guys, not much movement on the offshore, I injured my leg and that has taken up my attention. I did get one side of the transom epoxied and one coat on the other side. Two more coats and shes ready. Borrowed a grinder to get the old rivets ground off. I'm hoping to get the new transom in next week, but it depends on how I feel.

I decided to keep my old trailer and add an extension to it so it fits the boat better, plus i'll need a new axle/springs. Can't wait. lol

 

[Watermann]

Take time to get healed up. Not much of a reason to be in a hurry now that fall is here and the long winter months to come is a perfect time to get boat work done for s spring splash.

 

[BMerr509]

Hey all, haven't forgotten about ya! Life does happen for sure. Had 3 foot of snow just before thanksgiving.

I should be finishing up the epoxy on the transom this week and hopefully dropping it back in the boat by the weekend. She looks awful sad sitting in my garage. Two questions: Anyone have any reputable trailer axle/leaf spring brands? I live near a tractor supply and have a jeep/trailer so pickup is no issue. Also, is there any advantage to using pop rivets vs deck screws for the floor? My plan is to epoxy/fiber mat the floor, then use one of those two methods to hold it down. Will be using 5200 over screw heads and in screw holes.

For the fiber mat- should i lay a layer of epoxy, then mat, then 2 additional layers of epoxy? i'm not sure the correct order of operations here.

Hope you all had a great thanksgiving!

 

[ezmobee]

I have had great luck with the Tractor Supply axles. I have used deck screws for securing the deck on both the restores I've done. No issues with them backing out. However, if your deck boards don't lay quite flat, the screws won't pull it tight as well as rivets do. Might have to have a big dude on hand to stand where you're screwing to get it secured as well as possible.

 

[Watermann]

Welcome back, hope your leg is back to 100%.

Personally I don't like using screws for the decking. On my SS I countersunk my decking for the heads of the large flange rivets and dunked each rivet shaft in 5200 before setting them. I had some Marine tex left over and used it to fill in over the heads using a bondo spreader.

Why you're wanting to use fiberglass mat on the decking? I'm not aware of any SC rebuilds where that's been done.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Welcome back, hope your leg is back to 100%.

Personally I don't like using screws for the decking. On my SS I countersunk my decking for the heads of the large flange rivets and dunked each rivet shaft in 5200 before setting them. I had some Marine tex left over and used it to fill in over the heads using a bondo spreader.

Why you're wanting to use fiberglass mat on the decking? I'm not aware of any SC rebuilds where that's been done.

When i tore my deck out (mostly by hand) it was fiberglassed over the top only. Wood was still completly rotten for the bottom up. I wouldnt even try to do it seeing how it still rotted out. It was sealed really well around the edges too.

 

[BMerr509]

Ezmobee- Thanks, ill check tractor supply out. interesting on the screws, i'll keep that in mind. what measurements are important? this is a 1977 trailer i'm repairing.

Rob- Thanks, ironically the leg healed 100% without stitches or going to the docs. Think i lost about half my blood that night but i'm alive! My 6" hunting knife (Brand new, thank God) went about a full inch into the inside of my left knee. Good news is only partial tendon tear (i assume), but i dug right into a vein. Pressurized blood, whole 9 yards. now just a scar The reason i was thinking about using Fiberglass was to avoid the checking that CTSWF experienced. Here's the thing- i'll probably only have this boat out less than 200 hours a season. and most likely far less than that, and i can cover it when it's not in use. Should i just epoxy my plywood and see what happens?

g0nef1sshn- i was going to wrap mat around the whole thing. If i can just get the floor to last me 10 years i'd be happy. whatever you guys advise.

​

 

[ezmobee]

The factory didn't seal the wood at all. What are you planning on covering the deck with? My marine vinyl deck is hella durable so I think that plus epoxy is gonna last a real long long time.

Spring centers are probably the most important axle measurement.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

If you will keep it covered and are takin care of it just seal the wood and cover it with your choice of material. Should last longer then 10 years!

Left in the open and wet and what not makes wood go south.

 

[BMerr509]

Hm, i would have to check to see as i have it written on my parts list at home. I think it was called Tuff Stuff non skid paint. Uses rubber particles in the paint, 3-4 coats. floor will have 3 coats of epoxy.

Thanks for the measurement- i looked today and they are so generic. Like these: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ng+trailer-axles+trailer-spring-complete-kits

I have no idea how to know if that will fit on my trailer or not. Forgive my ignorance, i'm more of a mechanical guy with simple things and i guess this is simple just no experience at all with it.

 

[jonnyfish]

Awesome looking progress so far!

I'm very interested to see how your transom work turns out as this is something I need to get done this winter.

What kind of adhesive did you end up using?

 

[BMerr509]

Hi Jonny, thanks for stopping by. I used Titebond III at lowes, it was cheap and claimed water resistance. I'm epoxying it so it shouldnt matter but it was like $4 per container and i only used one. Watermann has a great tip on the transom which i noticed when i dry fit it- when you go to place the new transom in, be careful not to scuff up the epoxy/wood on the sharp tin edges. Luckily i made this mistake BEFORE i started epoxying.

 

[jonnyfish]

That's a great tip, and noted, thank you.

How difficult was the epoxy process, did you also find your epoxy at lowes or another localized hardware store (Home Depot, Menards, ect)

 

[BMerr509]

Sure. Let's just say this was my first epoxy job and it isn't bad at all, just get your hardner ratio correct. I used US composites, just google them. I went with a 3:1 ratio. it is pricey. i don't have a menards or west store near where i live (upstate NY) so i ordered online. If you're on a tight budget, there are ebay options, although i cannot attest to their quality. I know the guys here don't particularly recommend marine grade anything due to cost, but for the transom i personally think it is necessary. Super strong stuff.

 

[Watermann]

Another tip for protecting the freshly sealed transom so the knee brace(s) don't scar it up. Cut out some plastic milk jugs into strips that go between the new transom wood and the braces, it helps the wood slide right in and the plastic then pulls right out. You can also do the plastic strips trick when test fitting too to keep from gouging the wood.