'69 offshore rebuild- BMerr

[Watermann]

I used a couple of tables with drop cloth over them for my boats when I painted them in the turtle position. Man painting outside would make me a total nervous wreck, my hats off to you for being able to pull it off.

 

[BMerr509]

Like I said in the beginning, I'm learning as I go, not expecting perfection. I finished the first coat tonight and will do the second coat tomorrow. Can't wait to get the painters tape off to see how the black clashes with the red. I think it looks great! Thanks for stopping by WM!

 

[Watermann]

Pull the tape off at an angle away from the painted side before the paint dries or you'll be sorry, it will most likely tear into the good side if not.

 

[BMerr509]

I read your post at 0430 this morning and kicked myself for not thinking about the paint adhering the tape. Turns out it peels right off regardless. I used the more expensive tape, if that makes any difference.

Second coat goes on tonight, barring the weather, then the last coat tomorrow, then she goes back on the trailer. I'll have pics tomorrow night.

 

[Watermann]

Hey sometimes being lucky is better than anything else, especially when playing the lottery. :lol:

 

[BMerr509]

Hey sometimes being lucky is better than anything else, especially when playing the lottery. :lol:

I agree on that!!!

Hey I've got an interior question for you- I'm looking to shorten my splashwell and install a bench seat, similar to a pontoon bench seat, in the back of the boat, pressed up against the splashwell, with the occupants facing the front of the boat. This would be used for fun only, but when I fish I want to remove it. Any ideas on how I can bolt it to the floor and make it removable? my issue I see happening is if I just bolt the bench to the plywood, after a few times taking it off the threading in the wood will strip. maybe I'm wrong. I plan on redoing the interior next year but I like to think about my plans well in advanced

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Put a cooler seat back there with a cushion on it full of ice and beverages. Some even come with back reats i think. When you dont want ite it out. Thats what i would do so i didnt put more holes in sealed deck.

Or find a way to bolt to the sides or the splash well. But not the deck.

 

[BMerr509]

Welcome Gonefishin! That's definitely an option. Leads to a thought- do you put a rubber o-ring on the bolts used when you actually put holes in the floor? That would keep it waterproof.

 

[Watermann]

For shortening the splashwell I'll have to defer you to Candutch SS build, he did a great job of it.

If I was going to bolt something down that I could remove then I would use T bolts and machine screws.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Welcome Gonefishin! That's definitely an option. Leads to a thought- do you put a rubber o-ring on the bolts used when you actually put holes in the floor? That would keep it waterproof.

I'm not exactly sure what I would do if bolting through the floor for a removable object. I just no for myself I would try not to add holes through the deck. It probably would depend on what type of flooring to put over the deck whether it is carpet or vinyl.

 

[Candutch]

For shortening the splashwell I'll have to defer you to Candutch SS build, he did a great job of it.

If I was going to bolt something down that I could remove then I would use T bolts and machine screws.

Shout out from Water, thanks Rob. Just read through your thread Bmerr and looking good already. I totally changed my splashwell area and put in a deck with smaller splashwell. The problem with shortening the splashwell is you will not be able to tilt your OB as you will no longer have the clearence. This means you will have to lower it as well. If you looked at my thread you can see I lowered and made the splashwell smaller but then tied all the deck framing into the sides so you still have structure because the splashwell is an important structural component of the boat.
I was going to add a fold down bench to the deck like you see on many newer fish and ski boats. This would elevate the issue of the OB clearence but decided to keep the design simple and I will have seating for 6 anyway which is enough for me. As gonefishin said I can still add a cooler in the back with a cushion if I need more seating.
I personally wouldn't have any screws or bolts in the floor that weren't permanent it just provides another area for water to penetrate the floor and accelerate rot.
As for the T bolts, I used those for my pedestal bases and had big time issues with the machine screws binding tight before they were fully seated. It took forever to get them fully seated with a lot of effort so there is no way I would want to remove them again.
I'll be following your build and if you go the same route I did don't hesitate to ask questions I'll be happy to help and let you know what I would do differently.

 

[BMerr509]

No Title

Hey guys, thanks for the comments/posts.Here are some pics! Sorry i havent posted in a while, i was in canada on a fishing trip. no monsters caught tho... Anyways, here are the pics of the boat on the trailer and an interior pic. The backstory on the boat is i bought it from a guy who didnt want to repaint it but rewired and put new flooring in (soft spots though, dont think he used the correct marine grade ply), then he added the blue carpet, which i felt was an interesting choice. I need to paint the stripe two more layers but i will not have a chance to as i leave tomorrow. I'm hoping to hit the interior this winter, and have a new motor for her by April.

​

 

[Watermann]

Looking like she's about ready for some power already, too bad about the decking, I wonder if the guy used some nasty OSB or something like that.

 

[BMerr509]

Hey guys- no updates on the boat as i'm not home and wont be until the late fall. I'm pondering my outboard choice though, and am looking for some guidance on it. Locally, i have a lund dealer who deals with honda, mercury and yamaha, and they have told me the yamaha is the brand of choice strictly out of reliability. Now i'm not going to start a brand war, but the yamaha has a 70 hp 4 stroke that weighs 260 lb, and merc offers a 75 hp that weighs 359 lb. i planned on rebuilding the transom much like most people here have. My question is- 359 lb seems like a TON. could my boat handle that weight? price is also an issue, i can buy a merc 90 hp for the same price as that 70 yamaha. keep in mind, my boat will be used to fish Lake Ontario only about 1 mile from the launch, then the rest will be to troll. Otherwise it'll be a pleasure boat with family/friends.
Which leads into question #2. i hear of guys/gals putting kickers on their boat. I'll probably put 50-60 hours max per year on my boat, with 3/4 of that being trolling. should i consider a kicker? I'm leaning toward no, but when we are talking about a $7k motor, i'll need it to last.
Question #3- any trailer manufacturers you've had bad experiences with? looks like a new trailer will run me about $1800. Worth every penny if you ask me... but i may try to fix this one up. it is in great shape body-wise, but would need a new axle, tires and springs. advice? is it worth the effort to try to repair mine?

Thanks and God bless.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I am by no means an expert on outboards. But i think the newer mercs and yams have the ablilty to drop to real low trolling rpms/ speeds. A kicker may be good for a back up motor these days with your size boat. Jmo.

 

[Watermann]

I'm opinionated when it comes to motors as are most, to me something seems wrong with having a Japanese motor on a USA made boat. It would be like getting a 69 Stingray Vett and putting a Nissan motor in it, just not my thing. What's the HP and weight ratings for your offshore?

Kickers cost a bunch too, price them out to help make your decision there.

The trailer in the pic above is in my opinion too small for the boat, there's hardly any tongue and 2 or more feet of the boat is hanging off the end. It would be tough to strap the stern down without straps rubbing over the bottom edge of the boat. I prefer the wide trailers with bunks that allow the boat to sit down in a cradle making it lower on the trailer as it helps with getting in and out not too mention going down the road. You can see how the trailers I got for my Chief and SS fit, that is what I consider being a proper fit for the boat.

 

[BMerr509]

Thanks for the responses guys- for the kicker, i just don't think i put enough hours on a motor for it to be worth it. For now, i'll just get a trolling plate for my #1, and i have an old (but excellent running) evinrude 6 hp 2 stroke i could always use.

the max hp for the offshore is 125 hp, so i'm definitely worried about how a 60 hp 4 stroke would perform on it. The key here is how i'll use the boat- as long as it planes, i'll be fine. 28 mph to 30 mph is all i would ever ask of it. For weight, the boat can handle 1900# according to the manufacturers plate (I'm not sure if theres a transom limit). seems like a 360# motor would be fine but i have no idea on how to gauge this. I suppose i could beef up the transom if i decided to step up to the bigger motors.

Watermann- truly appreciate your input on the trailer/motor. For the trailer, i never thought of the fit of the current one. I'll go with a new one, as it would be worry free for a long time. For the motor brand, which one is the most American? my struggle between the merc/yam is that i've never heard of anyone saying "i wish i never bought my yammi", can't say the same with the mercs. local dealer does both yami and merc, and honda. I'm waiting for the boat show to see prices. I'm very distraught about this since it is a lot of money. i have no idea how to gauge how a 60 hp, 260lb motor would compare to a 80 hp 360lb motor.

 

[Watermann]

Instead of a trolling plate you may want to look into these pro troller smart tabs.

Personally I would look at a motor closer to 90 HP.

 

[oldhaven]

The jury is still out on my choice of a new 90 Merc 4 stroke on my 18' Starchief, but with only one on water trip to support my opinion I am quite pleased with its performance of close to 40 MPH. The 360 pounds seems like a lot, but if you are going to mount a kicker in addition to the 2 stroke lighter motor you will be right up in that area anyway. I don't think I will need one any more than a new car would need a aux engine, and you can troll the main down to 550 RPM. I used a different material for my transom, and that remains a choice time will prove or not, but I feel certain that a properly constructed and supported marine plywood transom would easily handle the weight. I would not mess around with the original splash well design if it is not showing stress damage from a bad transom, unless you have really considered how to replace its supportive function or even increasing the support it provides by clever engineering. When tilted, I can stand on the lower unit of my unchanged design Chief and the transom does not move or flex, but I can't guarantee what will happen in 5 years of use and trailering. I am not sure who could, even with a lighter motor. My 1967 data plate calls for a 120 HP max rating, but says nothing about the weight difference between a 1967 120 V4 2 stroke and a 2015 inline 4 stoke. As you know, that 360 pound Merc 75 can be bought as a 363 pound 115, if you want to pay the extra bucks for perfomance and fuel. I bought mine using a manufacturers rebate that was offered many months before I was ready to use it, so watch for sales and incentives, if you can afford the time to wait.

Ron

 

[BMerr509]

Thanks for the video WM, i've never heard of those before, and in combo with the low RPM control of either motor and the easy troll tabs, i anticipate getting my boat under 1 MPH or just a hair above.

OldH- i just found your build and am sifting through the pages, you have many of the same questions as i do so that will help. I'm not sure how your chief calls for a lower HP motor than mine, to me that makes no sense. I should also point out that i do intend to keep this boat for as long as she holds up, but down the road would like to get a lund 18' and drop my new motor on the lund at that time- which is why i need to stay under 100 hp. Most 18' lunds only allow 90's. I have much time to decide on which motor to get. I can wait until next april and there's two boat shows in between that time and now, and perhaps one dealer will make me an offer i cannot refuse. Plus i'll probably buy the trailer at that time, so i'm hoping for a mega discount from the dealer. Have you taken your boat out any more this year?

I'm with WM tho- the extra $800 to go from a 70 to a 90 would probably be significant. When i rebuild the transom, I'll console with you experts to ensure it can hold 360# safely.

Also, looks like i'll be home for a week straight (starting late aug) with no work lined up (havent had that in 8 years) so i'll be working on the boat! figure i can take the floor off and the transom.