'69 offshore rebuild- BMerr

[BMerr509]

Not a bad idea. I haven't decided if i'm gonna leave my side panels alone and just paint them or what yet. Either way, i'm planning a storage compartment in the center.

 

[BWR1953]

These aluminum boats use the deck, stringers, ribs, gunnels etc. and the hull skin to provide structural integrity. The foam provides no strength at all. Most on here don't use the poured foam. And as ezmobee said, the pool noodles are iffy. Adding aluminum cross members would help provide even more strength. (Something I plan to do on my Chieftain.)

I chose to use the sheet foam and it worked out well for me. I used the 3/4" pink foam on my Kingfisher because that was the only color and size available. The blue blocks are actually pink but covered with HDPE trash bags to provide fuel proofing. I glued all the blocks in sections to match the shape of the boat and then strapped them together with aluminum duct tape.


Like so:

 

[mickyryan]

I haven't seen or taken a poll on what everyone does here , I just know having foam that's poured in filling crevice's and locking tight seems like a way better option then having things that can move around but to each there own , also I figured the plastic rubbing against the aluminum could release a static charge .
aluminum gives up some charge to these items [h=3]Become negative in charge[/h] The following materials tend to attract electrons when brought in contact with other materials. They are listed from those with the least tendency to attract electrons to those that readily attract electrons.

[h=4]Materials that gain a negative (−) electrical charges (Tend to attract electrons)[/h]
Least (−) charges	Wood	Attracts some electrons, but is almost neutral
	Amber
	Hard rubber	Some combs are made of hard rubber
	Nickel, Copper	Copper brushes used in Wimshurst electrostatic generator
	Brass, Silver
	Gold, Platinum	It is surprising that these metals attract electrons almost as much as polyester
	Polyester	Clothes have static cling
	Styrene (Styrofoam)	Packing material seems to stick to everything
Moderate (−) charges	Saran Wrap	You can see how Saran Wrap will stick to things on (+) list
	Polyurethane
	Polyethylene (like Scotch Tape)	Pull Scotch Tape off (+) surface and it will become charged
	Polypropylene
	Vinyl (PVC)	Many electrons will collect on PVC surface
	Silicon
Most (−) charges	Teflon	Greatest tendency of gathering electrons on its surface and becoming highly negative (−) in charge

personally id rather not take the risk of having static electricity while running around in a metal boat

 

[BMerr509]

Hi mick, thanks for stopping by. The pour in foam tends to absorb a ton of water, i believe Jason did a youtube video on it on one of his tear downs. You bring up a valid point on the static discharge and i'm curious to know what the other members here think about it.

BWR- the foam board wouldnt provide the boat any structural support, i was more thinking for the floor, especially between the main floor supports and the edges of the boat. I think once i have my base floor support installed it won't matter. Thanks for the pic- how much did you use there?

I got the transom all painted and completely done. However, i reviewed the skin on the boat where the transom goes and there's some pitting for sure. It's still structurally sound but i think him gonna lay in a 1/8" layer of aluminum and ensure it's strength. If the price is right, i might actually trace out the transom shape and glue a layer of aluminum to the transom itself. Any issues with doing that?

 

[Watermann]

The only issue with a second skin is the transom cap won't fit, maybe an issue with end caps, new longer through bolts possibly. Original SC transom AL is .100 thickness and you'll be adding .125 if using 1/8".

Most only do that is severe cases of PO drilling and corrosion. Otherwise skinning the inside pitting and hole filling with JB or MT works fine, all the outer AL skin does back there is keep the water on the outside.

Now go test out that static issue by rubbing a balloon on your head and stick it to the ceiling. :lol:

 

[BWR1953]

...BWR- the foam board wouldnt provide the boat any structural support, i was more thinking for the floor, especially between the main floor supports and the edges of the boat. I think once i have my base floor support installed it won't matter. Thanks for the pic- how much did you use there?...

I used 5 sheets of the 3/4" foam. Would have been fewer if I'd been able to get the 2" sheets. Maybe on my next build I can find some of the bigger stuff.

 

[BMerr509]

Ah. My worry with the JB is that it will scratch the transom, which i guess i can sand down the rough spots. Maybe i'll just get a 1/16" piece for where the motor goes.

Hey dumb question- has anyone ever tried to do a solid aluminum transom? Seems like weight would be about the same. I guess cost would be significant, but once you deduce your epoxy/paint/wood costs it might be closer to breaking even than originally thought. Plus it would never corrode!

I still think a .100" thick AL transom skin is too thin. with or without pitting lol

Thanks BWR- i'll probably need 4 or 5 of the 2" stuff for mine since i have an 18'.

 

[Watermann]

There's always a work around, so is there pitting on the outside skin where the wood motor pad was? On my SS there was so I made a .100 AL pad and installed it under where the transom cap needed to be so it would still fit. I didn't bother filling the pitting rather I just back buttered the pad with 5200 and clamped it in place to set up.

AL transom, like solid... no not that I've seen? That would cost more than it's worth, wood works just fine if done right. AL wouldn't rot but it would still corrode.

.100 AL keeps water on the outside just fine.

 

[BMerr509]

Ironically, no- its on the inside skin. None of the pits are all the way through, but some are close i'm sure. I'll get pics tonight if possible. I'm slated for 2'+ of snow tonight And it's only inside the are between the motor bolt holes. I'm thinking I'll do the same as you did, i was thinking that. i can sneak a 1/16" aluminum pad in there after the transom is installed. Then clamp it and let it set up and call it a day.

 

[BMerr509]

man i just ordered $112 worth of aluminum from online metals . com. my goodness what a steal that was. free shipping today too. Home depot wanted twice that much for the same stuff. I'm going to do framing similar to what canadian rob did, although im not sure what i'm going to do about the splashwell. I might just cut the flat piece out and reuse it and discard the sides. Not sure yet. I ordered 1/8" x 2.5" AL flat bar for my floor supports in 60" lengths to span the entire width of the boat. Then my 1/8" AL angle for the supports just like Rob did in his thread. keepin the boat restore fever alive!

 

[mickyryan]

Hi mick, thanks for stopping by. The pour in foam tends to absorb a ton of water, i believe Jason did a youtube video on it on one of his tear downs. You bring up a valid point on the static discharge and i'm curious to know what the other members here think about it.

BWR- the foam board wouldnt provide the boat any structural support, i was more thinking for the floor, especially between the main floor supports and the edges of the boat. I think once i have my base floor support installed it won't matter. Thanks for the pic- how much did you use there?

I got the transom all painted and completely done. However, i reviewed the skin on the boat where the transom goes and there's some pitting for sure. It's still structurally sound but i think him gonna lay in a 1/8" layer of aluminum and ensure it's strength. If the price is right, i might actually trace out the transom shape and glue a layer of aluminum to the transom itself. Any issues with doing that?

it really doesn't soak up any more then any other foam and pool noodles would suck the most up , because they are open cell closed cell foam doesn't really suck up moisture and if cells are open usually the water drains back out if there is proper drainage, however the bigger key is keeping water from getting in there in the first place by doing a good waterproof deck and storing boat properly there should be minimum water sitting in the foam.
I can give you a even better example of this the foam on my floor of my 88 wellcraft was soaked moldy and no water flow , the foam core on side of boat when I pressure washed it got moisture in it and drained out the next day , I removed it anyways just because I know after 30 years mold and mildew had probably filled the passages making 100 % drainage impossible yet it did actually drain the foam was dry when I pulled it off the walls except bottom 1/2 inch from the previous evenings dew.
I did a crap ton of research before moving to next phase on my boat and spared no expense if it made sense and poured foam was one of those, I just could not see improvements made upon with any other product or application.

 

[ctswf]

Theres no doubt an expanding closed cell foam will fill more crevasse and be better at displacement durring a sinking situation.

After reading around here, i personally went with the loose 2" dow blue board mainly due to drainage, and videos of people removing stuck pour in foam all stuck to the ribs on future restores...ugg

No matter what you do, water will find a way in the floor some day, even if 100% sealed eventually a rivet can let some in and get trapped, That was my logic.

Speaking of drainage, anyone else have a chine floss string? I still do

 

[BMerr509]

I agree guys. I did a lot of research on the whole flotation foam and came to the conclusion is everyone has a different opinion. I'm just going to do the same thing CT did, since we have the same boat lol I wonder how many others have '69 offshores...i've still gotta get the insulation and floor and primer for the interior of the boat, which will be this weekend.

I bought my interior paint (rustoleum battleship marine paint), brushes, 5200, all the rivets, and 2 gallons of epoxy for the flooring- CT, how much epoxy did you use for your floor? Oh, and i bought CoD infinite warfare. my early christmas present to me

 

[ezmobee]

I used 3 gallons on my deck. Got mine from Clark Craft. I liked the 1:1 dead simple mixing ratio. It really does depend on how much the wood soaks up the epoxy. Mine was pretty thirsty.

Use a foam roller as much as you can when painting with Rusto. I'll look much nicer.

 

[ctswf]

I forget, but i think 3 gallons at first sounds about right for me too. Then i ended up buying more when my floor checked. I also agree on the foam roller

 

[BMerr509]

Thanks guys, bought everything i need to get this thing splashed other than the motor/controls last night. Optionally i may get a new gas tank but it wouldn't stop me from a splash. Just need to get to it. I think i bought way too much insulation board but oh well. I haven't posted pics lately so here is 3- its been cold here, and for those of you who do not know what lake effect is, have a look at the radar shot. That's lake ontario btw. the yellow part is snow coming down to the order of 3" per hour. At that point in time, it was right over my house for about 4 hours.

 

[BMerr509]

Got the foam board in and the first floor board cut and in the boat, obviously just for fit. Got the transom in which was a squeeze and I need to re epoxy the top but not a big deal. I'll get the rest of the floor cut tomorrow. Using CDX ext grade ply and it looks terrible. I thought long and hard about taking it back and getting marine grade. I'm going to use this though. Also put a layer of primer on the console. There's no foam board in the middle because i'm planning a rod locker/storage area there. For now, it's 9' but i have so much extra insulation i may shorten it. I'm going to try to get a sheet of aluminum to put under the from casting deck. It'll depend on cost.

 

[jbcurt00]

No ACX or BCX available, CDX is a really rough grade of plywood.

Whats the deck (floor) covering plan?

 

[BMerr509]

Not realistically near me, no. I'll epoxy it (2 coats) then put vinyl over it.

 

[Watermann]

You could have both rod storage and flotation foam. Cut the foam into a V shape and stack it on edge in the belly. Use PVC pipe for the rods to slide into and drill holes in the foam for the pipe to pass through leaving you with a smaller hatch opening for the reels / rod butts.

The issue I would have with plywood is if it has lots of voids making it weak, ugly means little when it's covered in vinyl.