'65 Lyn Craft Seabreeze 1500 Sport Runabout

[buxmj]

I got the first coat of primer on today. Even though it is drab grey primer it looks so much better to be one color. I am using the Majic paint from Tractor Supply. I know there have been issues with the primer and I hope it got resolved, it had been a while since the post stated the problems, this TS store is less than a year old and it seems to be very fresh paint, not thick on the bottom at all and mixed easily. 2nd coat goes on tomorrow then Majic gloss white next week.

As for the color, if I am rolling it do I still use the reducer? I am using the hardener. Sorry if it is a dumb question, don't know much about paint chemistry.

 

[buxmj]

Time for an update! I got caught up with stuff around the house and have done some stuff on the boat but mainly been watching paint dry, literally. I had read not to use the Majic primer bc it takes so long to cure but I went ahead and used it thinking maybe they have upgraded the chemistry over the years but no such luck, it took several days for that primer to cure, so frustrating. I went to TS and bought Rustoleum implement primer and wow that stuff is so much better, coverage and cure time, you can compare my pic from my last post to the first pic here, looks so much more even, and yes I did mix the Majic primer well.

I put on 2 coats of Majic white on the inside of the boat and really like how it went down. I used WOG's method and will use it for the hull also. This gave me a chance to get acclimated to this method. I did do roll and tip instead of roll and roll and am happy. Seems to be hard as a rock also.

Thumbs up to Majic paint with reducer and hardener, thumbs down to Majic primer.

 

[Meames1]

That looks great !

 

[sphelps]

Looks great Buck ! Sorry about the primer .. You would think they would have worked that out by now .. Unless there's a step we are missing somehow idk .. You want to reduce the finish paint a little if you roll just not as much as spraying it ..

 

[kcassells]

Time for an update! I got caught up with stuff around the house and have done some stuff on the boat but mainly been watching paint dry, literally. I had read not to use the Majic primer bc it takes so long to cure but I went ahead and used it thinking maybe they have upgraded the chemistry over the years but no such luck, it took several days for that primer to cure, so frustrating. I went to TS and bought Rustoleum implement primer and wow that stuff is so much better, coverage and cure time, you can compare my pic from my last post to the first pic here, looks so much more even, and yes I did mix the Majic primer well.

I put on 2 coats of Majic white on the inside of the boat and really like how it went down. I used WOG's method and will use it for the hull also. This gave me a chance to get acclimated to this method. I did do roll and tip instead of roll and roll and am happy. Seems to be hard as a rock also.

Thumbs up to Majic paint with reducer and hardener, thumbs down to Majic primer.

Looks Great Nice job.
Rustoleum clean metal primer all by itself dries almost immediately. That's what I used.

 

[buxmj]

Thanks Meames, Sam and KC, I really do like the Majic paint with the WOG method, hope this thread steers others in the future to use Rustoleum primer.

I needed to grind down the top inside edge of the transom to round it off a bit and got down to bare wood, mixed up a small batch of resin and coated that area and let it kick off a bit and then went with one layer of 1708 up over the top and down the back, there will be at least one more layer but now it is all glassed together. I can now put the cap back on and seal it and rivet it to the hull, going to be a floating boat soon, well at least it will be able to float, still a while for the official splash but glad to have the floors and transom done and the inside painted.

 

[buxmj]

Well the boat is back to being one piece! Got the cap sealed and riveted on. For sealer/adhesive I used Loctite PL marine. What info I came across it is very similar to 4200 but easier to find for me. I knew I had a lot of rivets and remembered Jmink using a dual handle rivet gun, found one at HF and also bought a rivet kit with longer rivets so I could get the cap and hull squeezed together easier by myself. Those 2 things are a great $30 dollar purchase. I ended up using just over 100 rivets so I would have been miserable using a regular rivet gun.

I still need to do more glass but there is now a splash well and it is solid.
I am adding a layer of CSM to the whole cap because of so much spider cracks, will be a lot of fairing but I don't have to worry the cracks coming through down the road.

The main reason I am using TS paint is I like the International Harvester white, which is really not white, almost a tan. I didn't know the original gel coat was the 60's light green until I had it home and was taking it apart. It had faded to the off white over the years and I like that color. I looked at Rustoleum colors and others but kept coming back to the TS white and IH white. The white parts of the hull and front of the cap will be white again.

 

[todhunter]

Congrats. Re-capping is quite the milestone!

 

[buxmj]

Hello everyone, sorry for the absence, all is well, been busy which is good, even made some progress on the boat. I now have the whole cap covered in a layer of CSM. I did grind/sand every inch of the old gelcoat, not to the original glass but enough to get a good bite with the resin and CSM. The whole boat seems to be one continuous spider crack so this should fix that. There will be lots of fairing and sanding but should look great and not have any cracks down the road...hopefully.

I also got the drain hole drilled for the splash well. I used a hole saw and cut a 1 1/4" hole and then cut a 3/4" chunk off of a broom stick, wrapped it in packing tape, screwed it to a piece of PVC and clamped it to the back of the transom with the dowel centered in the hole. I then packed the space with PB and let it set up, took the screw out from the backside and then pulled the dowel from inside, smooth and solid, so glad when things go well.

I am hoping to flip the boat this week, my neighbors don't know yet that they are helping, lol. I will probably be covering the whole hull with a layer of CSM just to stabilize the gelcoat. The third pic is what is waiting for me, it is just in one spot, port side aft. Weird how the crackling is concentrated in one spot.

 

[Meames1]

my neighbors don't know yet that they are helping, lol.

LOL. I used to say that to my wife all the time, although when I said it they literally didn't know....
"The neighbors don't know it yet but WE are tuning the race car in the driveway today."

Congrats on the progress.

 

[buxmj]

Hi everyone. I need to stop thinking things will go as planned. I was hoping to flip the boat a month ago and just got it flipped last week. I was having problems with the fairing compound not kicking off. It felt hard but would gum up the sandpaper, was very frustrating but with it so hot and humid I guess that is par for the course. I did get the whole cap faired and sanded 2 times and faired a third time before flipping the boat. It will be ready to sand and paint after "this side up" happens. The hull is in good shape structurally, the keel needs one layer of 1708 but there are no serious gouges anywhere. The problem is that cosmetically the gelcoat is mostly spider cracked at the least and serious crackling at its worst. It also has many blisters. I have been grinding this week, started using the random orbit but that would have taken forever, switched to 3" belt sander and it is doing the trick. As I suspected I will end up laying down one layer of CSM to the whole hull to stabilize and then fair and sand, fair and sand, groundhog day... Also, I will need to add some 1708 to get rid of the hook towards the transom as you can see in the 3rd pick. I don't want to get out on the water and it porpoises. So many frustrating things, too late to turn back and hoping to enjoy this boat someday.

 

[Reserector_]

Wow, that IS a mean hook. That would cause a performance issue, for sure.
Be sure to keep the back edge (where the bottom meets the transom) nice and sharp-edged. Avoid temptation to round it off. That helps with speed by allowing the water to shear off cleanly when you're up on plane.

 

[buxmj]

Thanks Reserector! I did not know that about the back edge. I will be doing some finish glass on the outside skin of the transom so it will be easy to get a sharp edge. I would have rounded it for sure.

 

[buxmj]

I am really embarrassed that it has been almost 7 months since my last post. I have made some progress but unfortunately I had some back issues recently and even worse back issues just before Labor day which really put a damper on boat progress. Luckily nothing serious with the back, just needing time to heal and thus unfortunately prevents me from working on the boat like I have wanted to for 6 months.

In addition to the severe crackling on one side, there were visible blisters on the bottom and when I started to sand them down many smaller blisters started appearing so I decided it was just better to sand the bottom of the hull down to bare glass, which was a pain. I started with my random orbital sander then realized quickly that would take forever and switched to the belt sander. I have added a layer of CSM on the whole hull, which gives some strength but also stabilized the remaining gelcoat that was full of spider cracks. I almost finished getting the hook out of the bottom also and am in the first stages of fairing.

Again my apologies for being absent, really have missed keeping up with every one's projects, need to get caught up on your projects to give me some inspiration to get back at it with mine.

 

[Reserector_]

That is allot of work, but it will pay off in peace of mind. Very commendable job.

 

[todhunter]

Agreed, a lot of work! It's going to look good in the end, though! Going back with paint or gelcoat?

 

[buxmj]

Thanks guys, hoping there aren't any more big surprises, the blistering, crackling and hook in the bottom really set me back, fortunately I know how much time I spent on the inside of the boat so I wasn't going to take a sawzall to the whole boat like I had wanted to when I was grinding the inside of the hull.

Tod, I am going with paint. I like how the Tractor Supply paint worked on the inside of the hull and found the color I like, International Harvester White, which really isn't white, more of a very light tan. This pic is from before the tear down. It originally was the 60's light green, which I don't like, it had faded to a light brown and I liked it. When I started taking it apart is when I realized the original green gelcoat. The white parts of the hull will be white again. Sorry for the bad pic, couldn't find a better one. Most of the front deck is white and will have tan down the middle and on the edges and parts of the sides of the hull are white.

 

[buxmj]

Making some progress. I have finished with the polyester fairing compound and started fairing with the Total Boat Total Fair. It is great to work with and it is supposed to be easy to sand, will see soon. Starting to think this hull might just look good with some paint on it!

 

[sphelps]

Looking good ! No doubt ,a lot of work though ..
You gunna go to the Dora show this Friday or Saturday ?

 

[buxmj]

Thanks Sam, getting there slowly, ran out of fairing compound today. Not sure which day yet for the Dora show, daughter might have a function in St Augustine on Sat, I do think I have Fri free so I should be able to spend most of Fri or Sat there. I will text you to let you know, looking forward to the show!