'65 Lyn Craft Seabreeze 1500 Sport Runabout

[buxmj]

So I had a big dose of irony smack me on the back of my head. I did the grinding this last July in a tent in Florida, cursing myself the whole time. I did more grinding and started the rebuild while wishing it was cooler. I get my foam kit from US Composites at the same time we finally get a cold spell and the foam needs to be 80 F to get optimal expansion. So I talked the admiral in giving up her parking spot in the garage, go buy a cheap space heater at HD, (yeah I know all you northerners are laughing that there is a need for space heaters in Florida) get it going on Sunday afternoon, go off to a gig and get home at 1130 pm and it is still just 72 in the garage so I break out my infrared paint stripper and heat gun, turn them on and put them on the floor and let them cook for a while. Finally got the temp up to 82 for good measure and mixed and poured at 3am. I have had a busy week but hope to have some time to start the tabbing on Saturday, maybe even finish, we will see. The 2 lb foam kit for 8 square feet is in and with the plywood and foam it should not ever sink, at least to the bottom, lol.

 

[sphelps]

Check another step off the list ! I'll bet the foam really tightened things up !

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Check another step off the list ! I'll bet the foam really tightened things up !

It really is amazing how much structure that foam provides. I really believe that’s why boats like mine didn’t have much of a stringer system.

 

[buxmj]

Yes Sam and Chuck I am trying to add as much structural support as possible. This is a pic from a long time ago, there were only 4 stringers. As you can see they used dimensional 2x which would be good if they actually glassed all the way across the board and the board actually contacted the hull all the way across. I added a 5th stringer so now there is one every 2 feet and they are properly filleted tabbed in. The darker area is what was the 1/4 ply glassed to the hull. I am thinking that with 5 stringers, 4 to 5 layers of 1708 and flotation foam, the hull now should be stronger than it was. Even though I have a ways to go, seeing this pic again makes me realize I have accomplished alot and still have not hurt myself, that will happen at some point.

 

[kcassells]

Every step counts and another piece of the puzzle is completed.

 

[buxmj]

Sorry I stated stringers in my last post, too late to edit. Brain hadn't woken up yet, I only have bulkheads, no stringers. And KC thanks for the encouragement. Builds like yours keep me motivated.

 

[buxmj]

More progress! Yesterday I did all the PB which took longer than I thought it would and today I got the first layer of tabbing done which took less time than I thought it would, go figure. I ran out of resin and it is going to be a busy weekend so I might not get back at it until next week. I still have to tab over the 2 step downs and then lay down the 6" tabbing, I laid down 4" tabbing today.

 

[buxmj]

I got the 2nd layer of tabbing down and the 2 step downs finished yesterday. I was hoping to be able to lay down one layer of CSM but ran out of time. I want to go over everything with 36 grit to get rid of any hard edges so the CSM lays down really smooth and easy. I am hoping to get a lot done next week, trying to juggle the house projects with the boat project.

Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and stay healthy please!

Buck

 

[kcassells]

Go easy on the paper. Are you going to fair the deck or leave it like it is and how do you plan on finishing the deck at the end. :]
Looking Great!

 

[sphelps]

Looks good Buck ! Merry Christmas !!!

 

[buxmj]

Thanks Sam and KC, sorry for the delayed response, busy Christmas weekend with gigs, which is good, now I can buy some more resin!

KC, I do go easy with the paper, mainly to just knock the nubs down and also the edges of the 1708, snagged my fingers a few times and also makes it easy on the next layer to not fight the tiny air bubbles at the seam. I have not decided how I am going to paint/coat the deck yet. I was thinking of a textured coating but once I put the back to back seats in there won't be much of a deck left so really not worth the extra cost. Please let me know what you think. I am definitely going to repaint the inside all the same. I need to get rid of the old lines of carpet adhesive first, it is like cement.

 

[kcassells]

I used @Woodonglass rustoleum formula and bought Kitby paints out of Ma.
Great selection of colors and I also had them match my gelcoat on my ole hog. It is a perfect match.
Did the same on the deck and taped off areas for non skid. I like it. Have to see how the seasons are to it.
Keep on you're doing awesome!

 

[buxmj]

As always KC thanks for the input and kind words. I am pretty sure I am going to use WOG's formula for the outside of the hull, makes sense to use it for the inside also. There is a Tractor Supply real close and I had already picked out the exterior color, will probably go with white for the inside. The seats and bimini top are dark blue so don't have to worry about color match.

I used CSM for a tab for the aft stepdown and ended up not happy with the result so I took the sander and took it down and rounded the lip a bit more and then used 1708 and got it to lay down well and then put the CSM on the whole deck. It can now get rained on and I don't have to worry about it.

Now on to the transom!

 

[kcassells]

Make a note this is for above water line. Ok so if you boat is a trailer Queen then it's ok. If in a dock then other product should be used below water line. ;}

 

[buxmj]

I would like some input about my transom. I hope this pic gives a good idea of how thin the outer skin is. I am raising from 15" to 20" and my current plan is to use a piece of 1/2" pvc sheet (so resin won't stick to it) with 2x stiffeners to the outside. I plan to put one layer of 1708 as filler for the top 5" and then one or two layers of 1708 on the inside of the outer skin then trowel PB and clamp in transom and then 2 layers of 1708 tabbing and one layer of 1708 to inside of transom to tie it all together. The transom already has one layer of CSM on each side. Thanks for your feedback and have a safe and happy celebration to the new year!

 

[mickyryan]

don't see why that wouldn't work , however i have had glass stick to pvc board sheet np, so you might wanna rethink that and use some release on it as well, as far as skinning outside on the whaler i took and just build up a couple layers of 1708 because it was in such bad shape , i had to babysit it awhile till it set off but after i just faired and was all set. ground hell out of original skin to be sure id get a good bite washed several times with acetone to be sure all dust was gone.

 

[mickyryan]

btw your "bulkheads: have confirmed what i have always suspected about certain boats, their hulls are more then strong enough to support the boat, and that sometimes "stringers" and "bulkheads" are just a way to fasten floor to boat. i have often suspected that multi chine boats are typically much stronger hulls then folks realize and that could be reason someone rides around with rotted stringers for so long not having a issue.

 

[kcassells]

You can spray some wd40, grease, oil, pam etc on the pvc for release. You'll have some fairing there to do but that a good spot to learn how to. Micky makes some good points.

 

[buxmj]

Thanks guys, appreciate it! I will keep you posted.

 

[sphelps]

Late to the party .. Your plan on the transom would be fine . But honestly You could just glue it in as it is . Notched trowel with full coverage of pb . Make some clamps to evenly clamp the skin and ply together . Then after it sets up grind the outside to just past the old gell coat for a good bond . A filler layer of 1708 overlapping the edge of the old skin a few inches . Then a layer or 2 over the whole back of the transom .. Fair and paint .. Finish your tabbing/glassing on the inside as normal .. 90 % of your transom strength is the plywood and tabbing on the inside around the edges ..
However you do it it's gunna be 10 times better than before regardless ..
Heck , for a clamp you could just put another scrap piece of plywood over the outside skin and put a few screws through the whole assembly to hold together till it kicks off .. Then remove the screws afterwards .. A piece of wax paper or visqueen plastic over the scrap ply would keep it from sticking together ..