60HP 1989 Johnson outboard low compression

tphoyt

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Are you talking about the joint at the rod and the rod caps being cracked?
 

racerone

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The joint for the caps is cracked at the factory.----I believe these rods are plated before heat treating.----Perhaps stain marks are confused for cracks.
 

tphoyt

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My thoughts as well.
I was called out for a fire alarm and couldn’t finish. The rod caps are fractured so they can go back on the same rod only one way.
This is totally normal if that is in fact what you were looking at.
Best
 

racerone

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Perhaps stain marks on the plating have been confused with cracks ?----Owner want to find used rods as new ones might be spendy.
 

Toshi

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Question about honing. When I look through the cylinder, I see some “walls” on the crankshaft side. Do I just try my best to hone as close to the wall but not to touch the walls? I am using self alignment honing tool as below. I know I need to make crosshatch marks on the cylinder walls with the honing process, but how many times should I go back and forth ??
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tphoyt

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You can use a zip tie around the shaft on your hone to use as a depth guide if your worried about bottoming out. If you do bottom out to hard it can chip the stones so be gentle. Take full length smooth strokes as evenly as possible. Use plenty of oil for lubricant and try to remove the scoring. If the scoring is deep you may not get it all but that’s is the goal.I like to stop from time to time a clean out the bored and hone to keep any heavy grit from building up. Hone until its shinny and smooth and the crosshatch is visible. This is my method I’m sure others will chime in.
Hope that helps.
Best
 

Toshi

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You can use a zip tie around the shaft on your hone to use as a depth guide if your worried about bottoming out. If you do bottom out to hard it can chip the stones so be gentle. Take full length smooth strokes as evenly as possible. Use plenty of oil for lubricant and try to remove the scoring. If the scoring is deep you may not get it all but that’s is the goal.I like to stop from time to time a clean out the bored and hone to keep any heavy grit from building up. Hone until its shinny and smooth and the crosshatch is visible. This is my method I’m sure others will chime in.
Hope that helps.
Best
Great idea !! Thank you very much !!
 

Toshi

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Questions again.
What honing oil would you guys recommended? It seems WD40 shouldn’t be used as it dries up quickly. How about engine oil or lower unit oil?
Also, when rebuilding, should I use engine assembly lub.? Any alternatives?
Thank you
 

clemsonfor

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Questions again.
What honing oil would you guys recommended? It seems WD40 shouldn’t be used as it dries up quickly. How about engine oil or lower unit oil?
Also, when rebuilding, should I use engine assembly lub.? Any alternatives?
Thank you
I probably wouldn't use engine oil or gear oil. Wd40 would work if you keep applying it. Or you can use PB blaster as it doesn't dry as fast or liquid wrench. If you have light household oil around or cutting fluid...maybe even transmission fluid in a spray bottle or marvel mystery oil. Use what you have. You might be able to thin gear oil or engine oil down with gas so it is a lighter oil as well.
 

racerone

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Your local machine shop might have ( believe it or not ) a product called " honing oil "----Mine does and I pick up about 2 liters at a time.-----Or use google to find some DIY substitutes for that fine product.-----Use ---sunnen honing oil ----in your search !
 

Toshi

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Your local machine shop might have ( believe it or not ) a product called " honing oil "----Mine does and I pick up about 2 liters at a time.-----Or use google to find some DIY substitutes for that fine product.-----Use ---sunnen honing oil ----in your search

Thank you for the information.
Sunnen honing oil seems to be the most appropriate one to use. Let me see if I can get it quick.
 

Toshi

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I probably wouldn't use engine oil or gear oil. Wd40 would work if you keep applying it. Or you can use PB blaster as it doesn't dry as fast or liquid wrench. If you have light household oil around or cutting fluid...maybe even transmission fluid in a spray bottle or marvel mystery oil. Use what you have. You might be able to thin gear oil or engine oil down with gas so it is a lighter oil as well.
Thanks !!
 

Toshi

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I was talking to another colleague who has done honing several times. He told me to use ball type honing because it won’t create burrs on cylinder walls but this confuses me a bit and it’s different from the one I have.
I can’t really imagine why ball type honing tool doesn’t create burrs on the cylinder wall where piston rings go though and the one I have does.

I’ve seen people on YouTube uses the one I have. I can do a little research, but I would like to ask your opinion and experience.
 

racerone

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I would never use ball hones.------Ball hones hide the imperfections in the cylinders.------Makes you think you have good cylinders when in fact there might be issues.
 

Toshi

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I would never use ball hones.------Ball hones hide the imperfections in the cylinders.------Makes you think you have good cylinders when in fact there might be issues.
Yes, sir. I will stick to the one I have.
Thank you!!
 

clemsonfor

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I would never use ball hones.------Ball hones hide the imperfections in the cylinders.------Makes you think you have good cylinders when in fact there might be issues.
I agree with this statement. I am no expert but it makes common sense.
 

racerone

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Sorry-----It takes more than 1 weekend to become proficient in rebuilding a 3 cylinder Johnson outboard.-----Work slowly / carefully and best to get a factory manual !!
 
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