5L not getting water into block!

[LX Kid]

My water pump base just arrived int the mail. It is constructed differently than the old one. It is a one piece with an o-ring on the outside of the portion that fits above the roller bearing.

 

[thumpar]

Special tools, finding someone to lend a hand and especially more gooder "brain!" LoL Arthritis in the knees doesn't help either. (That sucker is heavy even with the lower off!)

You don't need specialty tools. I made the $3 exhaust bellows tool when I did it. It is not that heavy. When I had my Alpha I would remove and install the drive as a whole unit by myself. If you think an Alpha is heavy try a Bravo. Now that is heavy and had to get a friend help with that install.

 

[LX Kid]

You don't need specialty tools. I made the $3 exhaust bellows tool when I did it. It is not that heavy. When I had my Alpha I would remove and install the drive as a whole unit by myself. If you think an Alpha is heavy try a Bravo. Now that is heavy and had to get a friend help with that install.

Maybe your right, "butt" after watching the YouBoob videos, it looks like a real pain to do. If I can do it easier with the same results, I'd rather do it. Now that I know about the exhaust tubes, and how they work, I think that is the route I'll take. Now I know why the Marine Mechanic told me that I really didn't need a new bellows.

My Marine Mechanic, and friend, gave me a hand when I first bought the boat back in 2008. Had to do some mods early on with his help in identifying problem areas. Had sooooooo many problems to work on that cast me thousands
of dollars while even doing my own work. Frank Parker down in Sarasota, Florida is really a good mechanic and friend.

 

[LX Kid]

I'm getting different repair actions mixed up in this posting. Can we keep the exhaust bellows replies over in my new posting and the water pump/blockage in this posting? Thanks

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...s/8932800-mercruiser-exhaust-bellows-fun-time

 

[LX Kid]

Gonna put everything back together tomorrow. Wound up with a couple extra gaskets that don't seem to fit anywhere. I have one under the base, one on top and bottom of the steel plate. Don't see where any more gaskets would fit. Does the fat rubber shaft seal go inside the top cover or on the outside on top? Seems like it would go inside the top cover and when the stud nuts are tightened would compress again the shaft.

As a side request, "How the heck do you get that darn impeller in the top cover?" As I look at it from the bottom of the top cover, the vanes should bend in a clockwise pointing direction. Man that's some tough rubber!

I also discovered, when I disassembled, there was not gasket on top of the steel plate and I'll bet that is where it was leaking into the forward cavity.

 

[Grub54891]

The impeller goes on the shaft with the key in place,lube the impeller with vaseline,or preferd, impeller lube. Then push down the cover while turning the shaft. And yes,the gasket should be in place under the cover.

 

[Grub54891]

And the fat rubber seal goes on top of the cover,its called a slinger I belive. It just keeps debris out of the impeller area.

 

[LX Kid]

The impeller goes on the shaft with the key in place,lube the impeller with vaseline,or preferd, impeller lube. Then push down the cover while turning the shaft. And yes,the gasket should be in place under the cover.

What about the rubber upper cover shaft water seal? Under cover or on top of cover?

 

[thumpar]

What about the rubber upper cover shaft water seal? Under cover or on top of cover?

Are you talking about the one that is close to an inch long? If so it goes on top of the upper housing on the shaft.

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[LX Kid]

My old cover has the slinger inside the cover and is melty and cracked. When I removed the top cover there was also one on top of the cover. Pretty sure the proper method is to go on top so that's the way I'm going. Just got back from Harbor Freight to buy an inch-pound torque wrench for $21.99. Needed one a long time for working on my motorcycles also.

 

[LX Kid]

It just gets better and better!!!! Put the new pump back on the lower and tried lifting it back up to the upper. Wouldn't you just know it, it wouldn't go in. Let it back down and and on the tip of the shaft in a small spring. You know it! It's the dang upper shaft seal. So now I'm in work stoppage, once again, for ordering a new seal. Maybe I'll get two of them.

 

[LX Kid]

Can't believe it's be "16 months" since I got back to this. Just yesterday I finally, with a little prodding from a friend, to get my butt in gear and put the lower back on. Yanked the old seal out and installed new one and with friends assistance we put everything back together without destroying the seal. Now that's done I had to remove the fuse block cause I wasn't getting power/gounds where needed. Lots of corrosion on the fuse holders and fuses due to just sitting in the yard. Cleaned all the block fuse holders and will put it back together with new female connectors tomorrow. Hope the gas in the tanks hasn't gone bad on me now!

 

[LX Kid]

Got my electrical problems sorted out and can now run the motor to further find out my cooling problems. As already mentioned earlier I have a new impeller and housing in the lower. After applying water and running there is no water coming out of the rear exhaust port. Pulled my new risers off exhaust to check for blockages. Everything looked good. Started engine and no water is being pumped out of the exhaust manifold so I'm thinking the engine water pump impellers may have rusted away from sitting for 3 years. It is a marine water pump so just have to remove it and check it. I have a gutted thermostat, which I also checked, and it's not blocked either and water is getting to the top of the engine. If anyone has any ideas please chime in! Thanks

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... The impeller pumps water up through the drive, through a hose, through the transom to another hose, to the t-stat housin',....

Disconnect it there, 'n see if ya get water flow,....

 

[Bt Doctur]

you can continue to go thru all this extra work trying to figure out whats wrong or just follow some directions.
Shift into fwd, remove the drive, insert a hose into the inlet, turn on water.
Water must exit the engine even with the engine off.If water comes out, start and run the motor to check all functions.

 

[LX Kid]

you can continue to go thru all this extra work trying to figure out whats wrong or just follow some directions.
Shift into fwd, remove the drive, insert a hose into the inlet, turn on water.
Water must exit the engine even with the engine off.If water comes out, start and run the motor to check all functions.

Too late! Took me all of 15 min to get the water pump off. No problem with the water pump. It's got a flywheel looking impeller unlike auto water pumps. Looks inside and looks almost new with "no" corrosion. I'm afraid that after the lower being off the boat 1.5 years, with new impeller and housing installed, that the lower pump is "once again" bad! It more than likely got hard. Well I have a helper this time to give me a hand removing and installing it "once again!" When I get the lower off I'll use a hose up the gazoo to check engine cooling and circulation out.

 

[Bt Doctur]

you remove the whole drive not just the lower

 

[LX Kid]

you remove the whole drive not just the lower

Ouch!! Don't think I want to get into that just yet! Guess I'll go for the lower impeller first and see what that does. If I have to remove the whole drive I'll put a new gimbal housing in. I have a gimbal modification, that I made, to take the slop out of the steering and want to test it.

Can be seen here on an old post that I started.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...rnative-repair-thinking-outside-the-box/page3

 

[Maclin]

On my I/O at idle and even faster idle on the trailer hardly any water comes out the exhaust, most comes out the idle relief ports on the bottom of the transom shield.