3.0L to 4.3L mtr mounts and 25 yo transom

[Rick Stephens]

It's getting a little slower as the temps drop into the low 40's in the day and 30's at night. Snow tomorrow. While it is nice having a big shop, impossible to heat 5000 sq ft. Been running a propane catalytic heater to get the epoxy to cure before spring.

Installed the transom today, temporarily, to measure out my motor mount heights. Still have far enough to go up that I am going to laminate in another layer of 3/4 ply on top. Then I can start glassing from fuel tank into the transom tying it all together.

 

[Woodonglass]

suggestion: Go to Harbor Freight. Buy some cheap blue Tarps. Go to Lowes. Buy some cheap 3/4" PVC and fittings. Make a Tent structure for the boat. Cover with the tarps and Zip Tie them in place. Use the Heater to bring up the heat then shut em off and use electric heat or Lamps to maintain the heat under the tent. You'll be surprised how well it works!!! All can be done for prolly under $50 -60 bucks.

 

[Rick Stephens]

suggestion: Go to Harbor Freight. Buy some cheap blue Tarps. Go to Lowes. Buy some cheap 3/4" PVC and fittings. Make a Tent structure for the boat. Cover with the tarps and Zip Tie them in place. Use the Heater to bring up the heat then shut em off and use electric heat or Lamps to maintain the heat under the tent. You'll be surprised how well it works!!! All can be done for prolly under $50 -60 bucks.

WOG, I prolly have most of that. Maybe one of the popup frame canopies and drape a tarp over it. If I had to drive to Lowes//HomeDepot et al. it would cost more than the tarps for the gas. I really do live in the sticks.

 

[Woodonglass]

I really do live in the sticks.

Well... if you live in the sticks...Use some of em to build the structure for the Tent!!!!!:loco::thumb:

 

[Bondo]

Well... if you live in the sticks...Use some of em to build the structure for the Tent!!!!!:loco::thumb:

Ayuh,.... Just run a rope from tree to tree,....

 

[Rick Stephens]

I'm feeling the love.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I got my Transom glass in. A lot of layers of glass, and it ain't moving. Dropped the transom plate in to do actual measuring off the mount points, found out this boat's transom is 12 degrees, the donor boat's transom is 14 degrees. Height measurements for the mounts were an inch and a half off. So a little ripping with the saw and a little chisel time and they are now on the money.







Lot's of little steps in between, but the first full layer of glass over the top went in this morning. From transom to fuel tank. I am always amazed at the places where bubbles are most likely to form, in this case, the 45 degree cuts on the motor mounts kept lifting up. I think I finally got it all down. Lots more glass to go.

 

[alldodge]

Just noticed something, and hope like heck this is not an issue:
3.0L
25.3 inch long
7.4 inch from bottom of flywheel to center of crankshaft
8.9 inch center of crankshaft to outside edge of block
21.9 inch tall

4.3L
25.4 inch long
11.15 inch from bottom of flywheel to center of crankshaft
10.04 inch center of crankshaft to outside edge of block
21.39 inch tall



Length of the engine is good, started to worry about if the pulleys will be an issue, but appears OK. That is 3.75 inch difference in the , engine probably should be off the deck enough but just a note to look at

 

[Rick Stephens]

Flywheel housings and transom plates are identical. And while the picture you posted is of the Vortec, mine is actually a pre-Vortec with Vortec heads, and Performa intake. So I have the sheetmetal pan and the multi-vbelts. The serpentine belts have a lower mounting position for the hydro pump and a low idler that is not on the v-belt model.

That is really weird that the 4.3 V6 and the 3.0 4 cylinder are so close in length. I did a bunch of pre measurements and the V6 was like 4 total inches shorter. I had both bobtail motors sitting there to measure off of. I don't know how they could be that close on the drawings.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Question for all ya'all. Do I paint the finished transom and bilge with epoxy paint or roll it with gelcoat? And if gelcoat, how much? Never rolled on gelcoat, no idea how much it would take.

 

[alldodge]

Epoxy paint

 

[Woodonglass]

Totally your call. Lots of members have used both with great success. Rolling gelcoat is NOT that big a deal. Kinda like rolling Thick Paint. Only difference is...It'll kick on ya just like polyester resin in about 20 minutes soooo... you only wanna mix about a quart at a time to make sure you get it all layed down before it does. Use the shortest nap roller you can find to get the smoothest finish you can. It will be the Most durable of finishes. Any good Oil Based Paint will work as well as epoxy paint. A lot of guys have also used BilgeKote. Like I said It's your Call!!!

 

[Rick Stephens]

Thanks gentlemen. See what I can locate.

 

[Watermann]

Looking good Rick, at the rate you're going you'll need another project to get you through the winter. :lol:

 

[JASinIL2006]

I rolled gelcoat in my bilge and it went on quite easily and looked very nice. The gel I rolled is not as stain-resistant as the shiny gelcoat elsewhere on my boat. The surface of the rolled gel is not high-gloss (even though I used wax in the final coat) and it holds the dirt more. That may not be a big deal since it's only a bilge, but I was expecting it to clean easier. (The bilge was gel coated before my resto, but it was the shiny, high-gloss gelcoat you get when the gel is sprayed into a mold.)

I don't know if the epoxy paints are any better, but I thought I'd throw this in as you make your decision.

I'm really impressed with your work and the pace of your work! You're doing a great job!

 

[Rick Stephens]

I don't know if the epoxy paints are any better, but I thought I'd throw this in as you make your decision.

Thanks so much for the insights. I didn't think about how porous that gelcoats are and how rough they are unless you sand and polish them. In the bilge they would look nice for a while.

I'm thinking that if I blow in a decent epoxy primer, which I have lots of, that I can paint over and get a pretty good smooth and clean surface. I think that an oil based bilge coating or an epoxy topside paint over the top of the primer would probably be easiest to apply and make slick. Oil based is what was on the boat from the factory and it lasted well for 25 years. I know it was that as a wipe down with lacquer thinner or acetone would melt the stuff right into a rag. Kind of had a black spatter look. The interior was painted with that over a gel coat layer, in some places a thick gel coat layer covering up raggedy heavy roving ends. In a couple dime size places a high spot in the bilge would grind down to where I only had gel between me and the outside world. Still soft rubbery feel at that. I'm thinking they had some gelcoat gun plops in the bottom while shooting the gel into the mold. Scary not knowing who thick the glass is under the grinder, so the whole thing is getting a layer of 1708 or two, where I sanded, in the bottom of the bilge.

 

[alldodge]

I can not advise on the longevity personally, I used Sherman Williams Macropoxy 646 on the cruiser and will be using it on the Chrysler runabout. The info came from a respected member on OSO when rebuilding the cruiser. It comes in gallons only (white and I think Gray) part A and B so buying it comes out to two gallons. Cost about $100 and they counter person can give you a discount if they wish (85 maybe don't remember).

So far the stuff is easy to clean, gas, oil and other stuff does not effect it. It is hard and shinny, think this is similar if not same stuff Formula uses in the bilge area. Also no priming needed

 

[Rick Stephens]

Afraid I have to take a break from the boat project for a few days, probably good timing anyway since it is snowing - Yeah snow! Putting on a ski patrol annual refresher this week. Pretty much eats the free time. I can't wait till the hill opens so I can live on 'snow rats' and ski all the time.

Soon as the refresher is over, it'll be time for some heavy tabbing. Couple layers here, couple there, and I'm ready to paint.

 

[alldodge]

Use to ski a lot, but didn't keep my mussel toned up, so now its been 6 years since I last skied. Probably will not ski again but sure di like it. Hate cold weather but at least skiing gave me some thing to do. The boat will wait till warmer weather

 

[Rick Stephens]

Use to ski a lot, but didn't keep my mussel toned up, so now its been 6 years since I last skied. Probably will not ski again but sure di like it. Hate cold weather but at least skiing gave me some thing to do. The boat will wait till warmer weather

I grew up where it was a 4+ hour drive to ski (around San Jose to Tahoe area). Never really got to do it often enough to be very good at it. Then I bought a house in Idaho 7 miles from the local ski hill. Little dinky hill, but it's 'ours'. 9 years ago heard a radio ad for ski patrol class - NO CLUE what that would entail. Led to EMT, Advanced EMT, and now I'm the patrol director, not that that means much on a little hill, like anything else, it's what you have time for. Most of my sports are good weather stuff, skiing is a great way to spend the winter right up the mountain from the house.

Rough life... I know. Someone has to do it.