1995 Larson 214 LXI... Floor and stringers

[TRH299]

Bought my wood tonight at Menards. 3/4 and 1/2 ACX ply. Will start cutting this weekend. ​​​​​​​

 

[JASinIL2006]

Good wood!,

 

[TRH299]

Glass/epoxy/foam ordered from US Composites... should receive on Friday (shipping cost was brutal!). Thinking about adding some sort of hull stiffening to help the 4lb foam in resisting long term deformation on my roller trailer as these Larsons only have stringers 11" on each side of keel. I am thinking maybe a solid sheet of 1/2 ply bedded in with PB or a couple strips of glassed in ply or maybe just some extra layers of glass. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

[tpenfield]

Are there any deformations there now? I would think a couple layers of extra glass would be fine, then let the foam (which will be very solid, do the rest.

 

[TRH299]

Ted, I currently have boat sitting on old rotted bunk trailer that it came on because I knew it would be better supported for the stringer/deck job. After the repair it will be going back on my newer Shorelandr roller trailer. I have it setup per Shorelandr's setup sheet for my boat, but since I have it open, I thought maybe it would be wise to beef it up. When on the rollers this past summer, I could detect very slight deformation while sitting on the rollers.... No cracks into the gel however.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I would not worry about it.

 

[tpenfield]

Ted, I currently have boat sitting on old rotted bunk trailer that it came on because I knew it would be better supported for the stringer/deck job. After the repair it will be going back on my newer Shorelandr roller trailer. I have it setup per Shorelandr's setup sheet for my boat, but since I have it open, I thought maybe it would be wise to beef it up. When on the rollers this past summer, I could detect very slight deformation while sitting on the rollers.... No cracks into the gel however.

Understood. BTW - What graphics software are you using to create those drawings (impressive :thumb: ) ?

I have 2 packages that I use . . . (1) 'Graphic' for Mac, and (2) Sketchup

 

[TRH299]

Ted,
My sketches are done in Draftsight which is kind of a watered down Autocad type of software. I think it is free to download. While the company I work for does most of their work using 3d Solidworks, we on occasion use Draftsight to update older 2D drawings in our archives. I often get stuck doing this type of work because the young "kids" do not know how to use "older 2D" cad software.

All that said, it makes for a quick easy way to convey some of my questions regarding my repair.

Hope to get my stringers and bulkheads cut this weekend and get the end grain of those pieces sealed up with epoxy that should show up tomorrow on the UPS truck. At some point soon I will have to suit up and do some 36 grit grinding/cleanup on the hull.... not looking forward to that mess. lol

 

[oldrem]

Ted,
My sketches are done in Draftsight which is kind of a watered down Autocad type of software. I think it is free to download. While the company I work for does most of their work using 3d Solidworks, we on occasion use Draftsight to update older 2D drawings in our archives. I often get stuck doing this type of work because the young "kids" do not know how to use "older 2D" cad software.l

lol I was a tool and die designer back in the late 60's early 70's. I had an 8ft board, lead holders, compasses, circle and oval templates, eraser shield, steel rule etc. Closest thing to a computer was a calculator the size of an old typewriter.

 

[TRH299]

lol I was a tool and die designer back in the late 60's early 70's. I had an 8ft board, lead holders, compasses, circle and oval templates, eraser shield, steel rule etc. Closest thing to a computer was a calculator the size of an old typewriter.

I started my special machine design engineering career on a drafting board also in the 80's. Still have my electric eraser, lead holders, eraser brush and I even got a full size drafting board from a previous employer when they redid their engineering offices.

 

[chevymaher]

I started my special machine design engineering career on a drafting board also in the 80's. Still have my electric eraser, lead holders, eraser brush and I even got a full size drafting board from a previous employer when they redid their engineering offices.

I was doing that back in that time period to. Right when cads were just starting to be use. Draw everything on velum. Ah the old days.

 

[Woodonglass]

If your using the 4# foam I guarantee it won't deform on your trailer!

 

[TRH299]

4lb foam is what it had in it originally and is what I bought to replace it.

 

[TRH299]

I HATE GRINDING FIBERGLASS!!!!! There, I said it. Have to do about one more session and then I can start the task of cleaning fiberglass dust from every nook and cranny of my boat and my workshop. @a&#!!!!

 

[TRH299]

Stringer and a couple bulkheads cut and fitted.... Hopefully this coming weekend I will have all framing PB'd in and start glassing/taping it in.

 

[TRH299]

Stringer and bulkheads epoxy PB'd to the hull this morning. I then filleted the outer surface of the stringer and the bulkheads. Now I will start start laying in some 17 Oz biax tabbing prior to the inside fillets full cure. On top of that I plan to glass the interior of these bays with one layer of 17 Oz biax. I am going to wait on the center fuel and ski locker in regard to tabbing. I still have to cut out the plywood in the keel but I want to wait until the stringer is cured in place to help maintain hull shape.

 

[cup of Joe]

I HATE GRINDING FIBERGLASS!!!!! There, I said it. Have to do about one more session and then I can start the task of cleaning fiberglass dust from every nook and cranny of my boat and my workshop. @a&#!!!!

Have you herd of using woman's Nylon stockings to pull fiberglass dust off your skin. Rub the nylon with the direction of your hair on your arms,legs face, to pull fiberglass off.
I have used them when I replaced the stringers and transom on my 1989 Reinell.

 

[71beepbeep]

Great job, it's coming along nicely.

 

[TRH299]

Anyone have any tips on best way to wet out the non mat 17oz biax with epoxy. I have two layers of tabbing on but it took forever. I am using a short chip brush and laying the cloth in wet epoxy then brushing and prodding it to remove air. There are always some spots that take a bunch of work to wet out 100%. I am getting ready to lay the last later which will cover the entire stringer. Hoping there is a better way. Thinking maybe a heat gun for a few seconds after laying it down?

 

[mickyryan]

use a roller , i found roller works really well, at least with polyester resin , not sure about epoxy,very nice work,