1995 Larson 214 LXI... Floor and stringers

[tpenfield]

OK, my gasoline to pour onto the fire. . .

As far as the structure, and for the OP's consideration, any of the darkened areas of stringer and bulkhead, yet still 'solid' are the beginning stages of rot. (so, port side stinger and rear bulkhead) Options are to:

1) replace that piece of the structure

Or

2) treat with 'chemotherapy' Ethylene Glycol to inhibit further deterioration


As far as the fuel tank and its surrounding structure . . .

The USGC reg cited states that you cannot built a fuel tank out of the boat's structure, i.e. form a tank from the bulkhead and stringers and put a cover over it to make it a tank. You must use a separate tank.

It does not state (as least from what I can see) that the 'coffin' where the fuel tank lies within has to be water or air tight, nor that drainage cannot be provided (if that is the question at hand :noidea: ). Just about all of them are not air tight.

 

[TRH299]

Agree Ted regarding rear bulkhead needing to go. After removing tank and cleaning up, I found the lower section of it is rotted. Port stringer is still unknown whether junk or not. The tabbing I can see in the fuel tank well is still solidly adhered to the stringer. As I get further into it, I will know more. Any significant rotted components will be dealt with.
At this early point I am considering going epoxy for the reconstruction. I am familiar with working with it as I have scratch build a wood and fabric airplane and an all wood airplane wing using West System products.

 

[kcassells]

OK, my gasoline to pour onto the fire. . .

As far as the structure, and for the OP's consideration, any of the darkened areas of stringer and bulkhead, yet still 'solid' are the beginning stages of rot. (so, port side stinger and rear bulkhead) Options are to:

1) replace that piece of the structure

Or

2) treat with 'chemotherapy' Ethylene Glycol to inhibit further deterioration


As far as the fuel tank and its surrounding structure . . .

The USGC reg cited states that you cannot built a fuel tank out of the boat's structure, i.e. form a tank from the bulkhead and stringers and put a cover over it to make it a tank. You must use a separate tank.

It does not state (as least from what I can see) that the 'coffin' where the fuel tank lies within has to be water or air tight, nor that drainage cannot be provided (if that is the question at hand :noidea: ). Just about all of them are not air tight.

I concur ...after much more research. Still as a boat owner and a possible tank failure I would not want that fuel to run to my bilge. Kinda need to be a fuel tank compartment lawyer.
Lots a work you have says I keep on moving!

 

[JASinIL2006]

Epoxy or polyester will work, but of course epoxy will be much more expensive. Your boat was built with polyester, so it would be fine, too. In fact, if you're planning to gelcoat any of your new work, gel will stick to poly much better than to epoxy.

The disadvantage to polyester is the smell; it's not super toxic (and I haven't heard of people developing the severe allergic reactions that they sometime can to epoxy), but it does stink. MEKP, the catalyst for polyester, does have to be handled carefully, but otherwise, polyester isn't bad to work with.

 

[TRH299]

Epoxy or polyester will work, but of course epoxy will be much more expensive. Your boat was built with polyester, so it would be fine, too. In fact, if you're planning to gelcoat any of your new work, gel will stick to poly much better than to epoxy.

The disadvantage to polyester is the smell; it's not super toxic (and I haven't heard of people developing the severe allergic reactions that they sometime can to epoxy), but it does stink. MEKP, the catalyst for polyester, does have to be handled carefully, but otherwise, polyester isn't bad to work with.

I am leaning towards epoxy due to my thought that some of the stringer and bulkheads are still salvageable. If that is the case, I would feel better filleting and reinforcing some of the existing joints with epoxy rather than poly. Of course I may be kidding myself and find that everything will need to be replaced. If that is the case, I may change my mind and go with poly.

JAS, how did you remove your carpet where the bow floor overlaps the deck at the walk through area? It looks like Larson carpeted the main deck (underneath this lip) prior to putting the cap on. I intend to splice my new decking to the first foot or so of old decking under the dash with cleats like you did, but I have no idea how to replace the carpet from that joint area. I AM NOT REMOVING THE CAP of this boat....EVER! lol

 

[JASinIL2006]

I didn't pull my cap either. That would have been a bit more work!

I'm having a hard time remembering what I did... I'll take a look when I get home.

Jim

 

[TRH299]

Here is the area I am referring to. The carpet is pinched TIGHT between the bow cap floor and the main deck.

 

[chevymaher]

I just pulled that carpet and ripped it out. It had screws going through it but it came out.

 

[TRH299]

I just pulled that carpet and ripped it out. It had screws going through it but it came out.

Thanks... I guess I can try pulling real hard. I hope it does not tear away leaving the trapped strip still in there.

At present time, I intend to replace the carpet with new after replacing deck. Does not look like it will be fun trying to get the new carpet back under this ledge.

I am guessing Jim's Larson is identical in this area. I am curious to see how his stacked up.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Mine pulled out too. There was a 1/2?gap and it just pulled out.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Here is the area I am referring to. The carpet is pinched TIGHT between the bow cap floor and the main deck.

not only is it pinched, there are screws from the front bow well going down into the cockpit sole

these are the reasons that I undecked my Avanti. was it more work....it appeared to be initially, however after i used ratchet straps to raise it to the shop rafters, the amount of clear room to work made the rest of the project a breeze.

 

[TRH299]

I wonder if there are screws under the glued down bow carpet? The bow floor is gelcoated from factory.

 

[JASinIL2006]

On my ?97, the bow area is all one piece and part of the cap, including the sole in front of the ski locker area. Is yours like that, too?

 

[TRH299]

Life got busy over the holidays.... Back on the boat project now. Port side has no rot.... transom is solid... At present time plan is only to repair Starboard side stringers and decking. I will be using epoxy and will also coat and glass port decking and exposed stringers.

I have starboard stringers, bulkheads and foam removed (still need to remove rear bulkhead). I will be using 1/2" and 3/4" plywood from Menards that is listed as marine grade. I am getting ready to place an order with US composites for epoxy, glass, filler and foam. I am thinking of going with 6" or 8" tabbing 25 yards. I am thinking 25 yards for two layers of 7.5, 8.5 twill or 10oz e glass for decking. I also will glass all bulkheads. 5 gallon epoxy kit. 4 gallons aerosil. Any thoughts in regard to cloth and tabbing weights/layers?

 

[TRH299]

Got the remaining tabbing and bulkheads cut out today. Just need to do a bit of grinding and I should be able to start cutting plywood. I am going to leave the center keel board in place and replace that after I get the starboard stringers/deck/foam back in hoping to minimize flexing/warping as much as possible. Still need some advice on what weight glass and tabbing tape to order from US Composites. I am going to use their epoxy and will be encapsulating everything in it.

 

[TRH299]

HELP!!!!

Need to order glass, epoxy and foam from US Composites TODAY. Can anyone offer any advice on my glassing schedule? I intend to epoxy coat all wood and then apply at least one layer of 10oz e-glass to all the wood surfaces. I would like to cut my tabbing from this same 10 oz glass in 6"-8" widths and double tab all joints. The top of the deck will have at least one layer of the 10 oz.... Should it be two? 10 oz seems to be the best deal. I intend to finish the deck with two part urethane paint then install Deckadence flooring over that. I am thinking 5 gallons of medium 635 epoxy and the 20 cubic foot kit of 4lb urethane foam. Hoping someone with epoxy experience can confirm my glass weight.

 

[89 resorter]

I used 17oz biaxle cloth to do the epoxy rebuild on my Century Coronado with the exception of capping the stringers and my deck, where I went with 6oz since it was only for water proofing.

 

[TRH299]

I used 17oz biaxle cloth to do the epoxy rebuild on my Century Coronado with the exception of capping the stringers and my deck, where I went with 6oz since it was only for water proofing.

Do you mean this stuff? DB170?

If so, can one just use one layer of it for the tabbing? Does it matter which direction it is layed down in? It would cost me less to use this stuff than the 10 oz.

 

[89 resorter]

Yep, that's the stuff. I would still recommend two layers of tabbing but I only did it that way because the guys with a lot more experience than me on this site recommended it. You will find that it does not matter which direction it is laid down (it is pretty symmetrical being stitched the way it is) or which side goes down since that is also the same.

 

[TRH299]

Yep, that's the stuff. I would still recommend two layers of tabbing but I only did it that way because the guys with a lot more experience than me on this site recommended it. You will find that it does not matter which direction it is laid down (it is pretty symmetrical being stitched the way it is) or which side goes down since that is also the same.

Thank you so much! I have built wood aircraft using west system epoxy as an adhesive and as a sealer, but have little experience using/selecting fiberglass cloth for a boat.