1992 Stratos 2250 here we go again

[ahmincha]

One more ? could I use this instead of the 8.9 http://stores.infinityfrp.com/i0-ounce-50-width/ I am not sure if my local supplier has the 8.9

 

[zool]

The 10oz should still wrap fine. You can lay it up anyway that fits. The ends on the thinner cloth tends to unravel a bit after cutting, sharp scissors help a bit with that.

 

[ahmincha]

Hello all, Ok I think this was mentioned in another thread but to make clear for me I'll ask again. Can I tab 2 layers of cloth 4" then 8" onto hull and both layers up to top of stringer but not over it on both sides then a layer of pb on top
'

 

[zool]

I don't see any benefit with a pb cap . Wrapping the stringer tops is an integral part of the structural integrity, plus theres the umbrella effect. . West Systems recommends
matching the nominal thickness of the original wraps. The pb will likely crack and delam under the stress. or at least allow moisture intrusion.

 

[ahmincha]

Ok that makes sense I guess I need to stop looking for the easy way out.

 

[GT1000000]

The only time I PB the top edge of the ply or wood, instead of wrapping, is when it is going to get topped with some form of decking and I use PB like a glue...
In my thread, post # 1815, currently residing on page 121 of 162... I used this method when attaching the sub deck to the main stringers...

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm you're using epoxy Right??? IF so, Zool and GT you think the Epoxy PB is still gunna Crack. I'm thinkin no. But I AM an old dumb Okie and I DON'T use epoxy that much so what do I know. Also, is really think, IMHO a couple of coats of Regular epoxy on the top of the stringer would be ample sealant for stingers and bulkheads. Epoxy's inherent flexibility properties and strength would allow it to do the job in my mind. what little there is.:facepalm: Help me out here

 

[GT1000000]

Uhmm you're using epoxy Right??? IF so, Zool and GT you think the Epoxy PB is still gunna Crack. I'm thinkin no. But I AM an old dumb Okie and I DON'T use epoxy that much so what do I know. Also, is really think, IMHO a couple of coats of Regular epoxy on the top of the stringer would be ample sealant for stingers and bulkheads. Epoxy's inherent flexibility properties and strength would allow it to do the job in my mind. what little there is.:facepalm: Help me out here

Forgot 'bout the 'poxy thing...My best guess is you are absolutely correct...however this down South dummy don't much know 'bout them 'poxies...

 

[Woodonglass]

Me needer but, I did stay @ a Holiday Inn...ONCE!!! Ever ting I read about dat poxy stuff tells me it's Purdy dern tuff so don't see why it woodent werk but Zool uzes it a lot so letz sea whut he sez 2 dew!

 

[zool]

Epoxy soaked cloth has some elasticity, that's true, but cured epoxy by itself, not so much. I can attest to that but the shattered bits of epoxy that flew around when I had to smack off a pail of smoked epoxy from a concrete slab I set it on when it went off in my hand

I still say using thickened epoxy resin alone on top of a stringer is not the way to go. Relying on it to protect the most vulnerable side of a ply panel (the edge), with gravity constantly against you, will most likely lead to seepage between the plys over time, as it cracks over time due to the constant pounding and twisting the stringers go thru. I just don't think its worth the chance on an area that wont be fully accessible after completion. And I don't see any real savings, money wise, or time wise...

But I do agree with GT, when mating two solid surfaces, with epoxy between, its good to go.

JMO

 

[kcassells]

Me needer but, I did stay @ a Holiday Inn...ONCE!!! Ever ting I read about dat poxy stuff tells me it's Purdy dern tuff so don't see why it woodent werk but Zool uzes it a lot so letz sea whut he sez 2 dew!

I'm using it to cap some real tight areas but also adding in milled glass. What do I know I use milled glass in all my pb. Thanks for all the feed backs.

 

[ahmincha]

Yes thanks you guy's for helping out. So I have not thrown away any of the old fiberglass I stripped of the stringers and bulkheads. So I took a measurement and it is .1665 just over a 1/8" It looks like one layer of woven roving In the second picture the double layer is where htey tabbed the sub deck to the stringers

 

[kcassells]

Probably say trash the woven roven. Not worth the grind out. If other glass is salvagable then definitely use it up. I don't know if grinding that out to flat and clean is worth it.

 

[ahmincha]

Oh no I just have not thrown it out yet. zool mentioned that west sytems keeping the same thickness as it was so I am just keeping a record

 

[ahmincha]

OK back to the boat I got side tracked I found a guy who wanted a 5 speed manual for his
jeep and I wanted an auto so we traded. I shipped my set up to him and he shipped his to me. The conversion is done so back to the boat

 

[ahmincha]

Ok this section of cloth is delaminating its directly above these impacts It is basically glass laid over a thin layer of foam 1/2" tops does forming the glass up over the foam create more strength. and can I use blue foam from depot to form my glass over for repair

 

[Arawak]

Sounds like you have foam core construction. What kind of glass is it, just CSM?

 

[Woodonglass]

IMO the strength comes from the resin and glass, NOT the foam. It's not needed. Again My opinion. Not sure why the foam is there. Since you're using Epoxy. I'd grind out and remove all the fractured and frayed glass even if it meant creating a hole and then make the repair using, multiple layers of glass, resin and filler tied back into the surrounding good glass. You Know the routine!! Tape it off on the outside and do the repairs on the inside AND the outside. Again just an Old Dumb Okie shootin his mouth off!!!

 

[ahmincha]

No Arawak its woven
Thanks wood I get the foam has no strength I was ondering if forming the glass up like in picture makes the glass more ridged then flat

 

[Woodonglass]

Possibly but if you do the repair correctly it's not needed. But again, that's just my opinion. It sure as heck wasn't there when it came from the factory and if you do the repair right it'll be like factory or better since you're using epoxy and biax.