1992 Sea Ray 180 Floor Project Help and Advice needed

[MC_What have I done?!]

well i knew about it and what to look for, at the same time i wanted a cheap project..... no longer have emphasis on cheap, but i got solid bones, a boat that is more than enough for the GF and I (she thinks differently like always), and it seems to be not as expense at most others builds. i wish i had some of these guy bank roll scrolling though builds lol

but milk crates work as seats for the mean time as long as it is structurally sound right?

Don't be a cheap skate, by her some $10 folding lawn chairs at Walmart or Target! Hahaha

 

[Scherfz1]

Don't be a cheap skate, by her some $10 folding lawn chairs at Walmart or Target! Hahaha

but how will those sit on top of the seat platforms..... i'll get here a nice XL beach towel too LMFAO

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

I got all the Interior and vinyl out last night and will be taking out the Bow seat boxes tonight.

So I was watching some more of Friscoboater's videos, and of-course someone will always be a hater, but on the videos of him glassing in the stringers he had a few people talking about how much overkill he did on his restore.... Did he??

The reason I ask is because I don't have 6-8k to spend on this project, nor is it worth doing that. There is another rebuild on iboats that I was looking at and he said he had about $700 in the project when it was done and it looks great, that is more in the area that I need to stay around but I am really curious that if Friscoboater did more than needed, what kind of things were not needed?

 

[CrazyFinn]

The reason I ask is because I don't have 6-8k to spend on this project, nor is it worth doing that. There is another rebuild on iboats that I was looking at and he said he had about $700 in the project when it was done and it looks great...

I can't see doing it properly for $700 - knowing the cost of glass, resin, and 3/4" plywood. It shouldn't cost 6-8k either. Somewhere in the neighbourhood of 2-3k is doable though.

If you get good, basic, polyester laminating resin (start with at least a couple of 5 gallon pails of it), use standard exterior grade plywood, clean existing surfaces properly before starting the build, and make sure you seal it up well, you will have a boat that's better than new. No need to buy anything exotic or more expensive with either the composites or the wood. But... you will use more resin than you think, and the other supplies will add up.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

I can't see doing it properly for $700 - knowing the cost of glass, resin, and 3/4" plywood. It shouldn't cost 6-8k either. Somewhere in the neighbourhood of 2-3k is doable though.

Thank you CrazyFinn, 2-3k is reasonable, 8-10k is not. LOL

I have also changed my view or at least trying to, you’re right about the fact that it will be better than new and that means I won’t have to worry about needing to upgrade in the next few years. While I probably would have bought a bit bigger boat if I knew I was going to have to do this much work, this prepares me for my next boat project because it doesn’t really matter what year or size the boat is because they all suck from the factory and any used boat is eventually going to need the same thing done.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

As it was already mentioned my someone else, the Transom is completely trash, it has literally disintegrated and is only held together by the glass. Still pretty disgusted with what I paid for the boat and it be this bad off.

On the positive side, with my new outlook and all , I want to go ahead and build the motor/bilge box to be able to put a bigger motor in(future). This 3.0 Merc has the front motor mount with bracket and I also want to go ahead and build in side motor mount blocks but I’m not sure how wide/long the bilge box should be. It already has offset stringers so it won’t make a difference to make adjustments now.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

Motor is out, tomorrow is the trim pump, cut out the Transom skin, final Stringer removal and start sanding.

Question: when sanding the hard edge of the old fiberglass around where the floor was, does that need to be completely flush with the hull and tapered or do I need to take it down to the hull clear to the sides? When it’s all said and done I’m going to gel coat it and do snap in carpets.

 

[CrazyFinn]

...this prepares me for my next boat project...

Be careful... I ended up buying my "next" project before I got my first one finished! But, as you say, finishing up the smaller one prepared me for the project I'm dealing with now.

 

[CrazyFinn]

As it was already mentioned my someone else, the Transom is completely trash, it has literally disintegrated and is only held together by the glass.

I thought my smaller boat was bad (and it was), but when I started tearing into my 240, I was quite happy at how rotten the transom was. I peeled the inner fibreglass off the transom with my hands (no tools required), and the "wood" all fell out by itself. It looked more like garden soil than wood.

The good thing about a boat that's thoroughly rotten is that it's a LOT easier to tear it apart. I pulled out the transom, stringers, and foam out of the cockpit area of my 240 in not much more than 2 hours.

The lesson I learned was that if you want a boat to completely rebuild, find one that is completely rotten - not just a little rotten. It all has to come out anyway!

 

[Woodonglass]

If all you need is stringers, transom, motor mounts and deck. NO engine work you can do it for $3K or less.

 

[CrazyFinn]

If all you need is stringers, transom, motor mounts and deck. NO engine work you can do it for $3K or less.

Good point. In his first point he mentioned he noticed the issues as they were using the boat - so I'm assuming it runs somewhat acceptably...

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

If all you need is stringers, transom, motor mounts and deck. NO engine work you can do it for $3K or less.

That’s great to hear, engine is a Chevy block Merc 3.0 and runs great, had it on the lake a couple times skiing and tubing with no issues before I found “The Problem” and tore into it. I am going to do a tune up on it but that’s cheap.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

Is the keyhole supposed to be tapered like this?

Didnt get the transom tore out today because we have had some severe weather, couple tornadoes around my county so I spent a couple hours watching the weather but I did get everything else of the Transom and degreased it so I wasn’t working in a nasty mess.

 

[CrazyFinn]

Is the keyhole supposed to be tapered like this?

Usually, there is just a taper in the top couple of inches to allow clearance for the steering arm.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

I thought my smaller boat was bad (and it was), but when I started tearing into my 240, I was quite happy at how rotten the transom was. I peeled the inner fibreglass off the transom with my hands (no tools required), and the "wood" all fell out by itself. It looked more like garden soil than wood.

The good thing about a boat that's thoroughly rotten is that it's a LOT easier to tear it apart. I pulled out the transom, stringers, and foam out of the cockpit area of my 240 in not much more than 2 hours.

The lesson I learned was that if you want a boat to completely rebuild, find one that is completely rotten - not just a little rotten. It all has to come out anyway!

It’s funny you caution this yesterday because I actually inquired about a 1995 Bayliner yesterday. No motor and the inside needs rebuilt, I think I can pick it up from him for $600, then I just have to listen to my wife complain about how I make it look like a junkyard outside for a couple years. lol

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

Usually, there is just a taper in the top couple of inches to allow clearance for the steering arm.

Ok, so in that case, the factory probably just made this a larger taper so it was an easy fit but when I build my transom I probably won’t need that larger of a taper.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

Should I extend the first Transom layer across the entire back of the hull like Friscoboater did? Also, my Transom and stringers were all made with 1/2 sheeting, should I use 3/4 sheeting or stay with 1/2? I ask because on the string sees they also scabbed 1/2 inch to the top 3 inches of the stringer, I assume for a larger support area but I figure if I do it properly and use 3/4 sheeting it would be better.

What at do you guys think I should do?

 

[GCartwright]

Nothing wrong with rebuilding it like the factory did, for the transom you are looking for a finished thickness of 2 to 2 1/4" most transoms would be something like this , hull thickness (3/8") + 2 pcs 3/4" ply, plus peanut butter and transom glass skin thickness to build it up between the min/max thickness required

 

[Panoguy]

Welcome aboard, Matt!

I had the same experience with my 1st. boat purchase... & at first I was in total denial, but ended-up doing a total re-gut. Due to some health issues, it's taken me years to get my Sea Ray back to seaworthiness, but it's close. The work that you'll do (if you do it right) when you rebuild, will make your boat better-than-factory - it's a very rewarding thing.

The advice that I've received from these boards are priceless!

Personally, I decided that, since I needed to totally rebuild the structure, to swap my 2.0L 4-cyl for a 5.7L V8 (built-up from a short block & parts from other boats), & replaced the back-to-back lounge seats with buckets on pedestals, and raised the floor a few inches - I believe my 19' Seville is absolutely unique (and it now goes like a bat-outa-He!!).

Seems like a disappointment & pain now, but in the end, it'll be GREAT!!

Best of luck with your rebuild, Matt!!

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

Nothing wrong with rebuilding it like the factory did, for the transom you are looking for a finished thickness of 2 to 2 1/4" most transoms would be something like this , hull thickness (3/8") + 2 pcs 3/4" ply, plus peanut butter and transom glass skin thickness to build it up between the min/max thickness required

If I rebuild it like the factory built it then I would be using 1/2" ply for the Transom, and what worries me is that everything I have read on the forum threads is that the transom should be built with 3/4" ply. I eventually want to replace my 3.0 Merc with something bigger and want to make sure the Transom can handle larger motor.