1990 Force L-Drive 90hp -- Can't get it to idle -- losing my mind :D

[Solace]

I have no helper

I’m gonna go put 91 in it, you think that could be some of the problem?

man I’m doing the best to do this logically please stop with the negative blows.

carbs fixed with proper link and sync. Timing is 28 btdc at static with wot in gear.

boat is not waterlogged.

 

[Redbarron%%]

Actually starting over on the fuel with the known proper mixture is one of the first things to do.
I don't know the octane requirement for that engine, but still step by step, make certain each part is correct before jumping to the next.
Fuel (proper mixture and octane) , spark (including proper timing), compression, (checking for leaks in the intake path etc.).
Decisions are easier when there are fewer of them at a time.
Is something right or wrong and how to tell is the trick.
A complex problem can be divided into two parts and then the trick is to decide in which half the problem lies. If that can be done the complexity has been reduced by 1/2. Do that several times and there is little left to consider.
To make the decisions you have to KNOW something and not just guess.
Each step you take should result in your KNOWING something with a fairly high level of certainty.
You should KNOW your fuel is good.
Fuel delivery is good (pressure at the carbs (3 - 6 psi) *
Fuel pump is not leaking internally *
Carbs cleaned and float level correct. *
Carb linkages set properly *
Cam set properly. *
Timing set properly. *
Throttle from the binnacle is set to give WOT and idle. *

Note: items marked with * are important.
To quote GI Joe, "Knowing is half the battle"
I have already made most of the mistakes myself so I have some experience in making them, No need to repeat.

 

[Redbarron%%]

With no helper, definitely tie the boat down. You have a hard time actually paying attention to what is happening if you are driving the boat and looking over your shoulder. The RPM might be lower at WOT, producing power, but you might not hurt yourself or someone else. Double tie the boat. (triple maybe).
Meaning no disrespect, but you seem to be jumping around a little here.

 

[The Force power]

I’m gonna go put 91 in it, you think that could be some of the problem?
man I’m doing the best to do this logically please stop with the negative blows.

Wow, how many times/people have to tell you;
That switching to 91 Octane is NOT going to change anything BUT FRESH/correct MIXTURE may
Sorry but the negativity is brought on by you, being dense; resulting in fellow boaters dropping you & You missing out on advice

 

[racerone]

This thing is NOT running with full power.-----How many times do you have to be told ?----Sorry to be blunt.-----If you have torn the carburetors down 5 times it is not a carburetor problem.----Checked the flywheel key ??----And no you can not find a sheared key with a timing light!

 

[Solace]

Flywheel key is solid.

everything on the boat is to spec, as best as I can do it.

Fuel delivery is good (pressure at the carbs (3 - 6 psi) * yes
Fuel pump is not leaking internally *. No
Carbs cleaned and float level correct. * yes
Carb linkages set properly * yes
Cam set properly. * yes
Timing set properly. * yes
Throttle from the binnacle is set to give WOT and idle. * yes

 

[Solace]

Doing another timing test, it may have come lose. Pulled plugs and this is what it looks like!!! I put in a can of sea foam…. Never seen caked on crap like this before.

bottom was clean tho.

 

[Solace]

Discovered a fuel leak here when I filled it and tipped boat back. Think this might affect fuel delivery?

 

[Redbarron%%]

The bottom cylinder is not firing and may have a water leak. Is there oily fuel on it?
Either not fuel or no spark. It looks like it has never seen any heat.
The reeds for that cylinder may be bad. (not an expert there)
Fix the fuel leak before you blow the boat up, but if it is leaking somewhere other than the fuel line that would not be the problem.
If there is a leak in the fuel line it may be sucking air, but then your fuel pressure would be low.
Find out why the #3 cylinder is not firing and you might be in business.
It looks like you have two weak and one dead cylinder.
Sometimes a clean plug means that you have water getting into the cylinder. Especially if it tends to "chug" on one cylinder (#3*). Water in the cylinder really runs the compression up.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Discovered a fuel leak here when I filled it and tipped boat back. Think this might affect fuel delivery?

No this leak will allow water to get to the gas.
3 plugs two look normal the shiny one, check for fire/spark.
A clean plug usually means it not firing.
91 octane no need to spend the extra cash.
In the long run 91 can actually damage your motor, it's designed for 87 octane. Look on Google and find the test results for 87 and 91 and what the difference is??
You do the compression and now a spark check?
Is the snout on the lower unit????
Reeds: any fuel coming from the front of the carb as it runs?? Some fuel will be normal, a little is OK a lot no. Reeds will not affect the compression
You do the starting fluid test?
I watched the video, there's nothing wrong with the fuel your burning.
A couple of things stop it from revving up: low comp on a cylinder, no spark on a cylinder, sucking air(do the starting fluid test), timing off(take a movie of the procedures used in setting the timing???) Flywheel key off a little.
Piece of paper, make a list of the suggestions from the last 15 posts and as you complete them mark it done.
One more time is the snout on the drive?? If not the exhaust is blowing straight into the prop and it's getting bubbles and not hard water.
One last thing pics of the prop including inside the hub.

 

[Solace]

Ok I’ll check for spark on wire 3 thoroughly. Thanks all will report back later!

 

[The Force power]

No this leak will allow water to get to the gas.
3 plugs two look normal the shiny one, check for fire/spark.
A clean plug usually means it not firing.
91 octane no need to spend the extra cash.
In the long run 91 can actually damage your motor, it's designed for 87 octane. Look on Google and find the test results for 87 and 91 and what the difference is??
You do the compression and now a spark check?
Is the snout on the lower unit????
Reeds: any fuel coming from the front of the carb as it runs?? Some fuel will be normal, a little is OK a lot no. Reeds will not affect the compression
You do the starting fluid test?
I watched the video, there's nothing wrong with the fuel your burning.
A couple of things stop it from revving up: low comp on a cylinder, no spark on a cylinder, sucking air(do the starting fluid test), timing off(take a movie of the procedures used in setting the timing???) Flywheel key off a little.
Piece of paper, make a list of the suggestions from the last 15 posts and as you complete them mark it done.
One more time is the snout on the drive?? If not the exhaust is blowing straight into the prop and it's getting bubbles and not hard water.
One last thing pics of the prop including inside the hub.

Hey Jerry,
is it not passed your bed time?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Ok I’ll check for spark on wire 3 thoroughly. Thanks all will report back later!

Here at the home they sometimes let us stay up late, once until 8:15
How about checking for the snout?

 

[Solace]

Oh my lord, running all 3 when I set the main board down like this…. When I put it on its mounts it only fires on one if I’m lucky — and this explains the arcing I was having…..

because I believe the motor mounts should NOT be in contact with the back plate where CDI is mounted. I believe there should be rubber bushings to mount.

If indeed this has been shorting, it could explain the weird timing and power issues; it’s shorting.

also swapped over to some hotter plugs, but will try stock again later.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Hotter plugs like higher octane really won't help.
Last time I ask, you check for a snout?

 

[Redbarron%%]

If it is like the sport jets the ignition plate should be grounded, but you may have other issues that are causing the plate to be hot. There are grounding wires that are attached to the plate. Any rubber grommets are for shock mounting, not insulation.
You probably have some part or wiring shorting to the plate.
This link to the old Sport Jet manual may still be live as it is too large to email. It has a great troubleshooting section and information on the older ignition system(s).

Google Drive: Sign-in

Access Google Drive with a Google account (for personal use) or Google Workspace account (for business use).

drive.google.com

 

[Solace]

Hotter plugs like higher octane really won't help.
Last time I ask, you check for a snout?

Haven't made it to the water yet to check, had a gas leak to repair and needed to reseal plug gasket. Will let you know.

 

[Solace]

If it is like the sport jets the ignition plate should be grounded, but you may have other issues that are causing the plate to be hot. There are grounding wires that are attached to the plate. Any rubber grommets are for shock mounting, not insulation.
You probably have some part or wiring shorting to the plate.
This link to the old Sport Jet manual may still be live as it is too large to email. It has a great troubleshooting section and information on the older ignition system(s).

Google Drive: Sign-in

Access Google Drive with a Google account (for personal use) or Google Workspace account (for business use).

drive.google.com

Thanks dude! I haven't confirmed it's the issue, perhaps a wire is being pinched but I was VERY careful. For now I just zip-tied it in place and am going out for a run when my new silicon seal cures.

*But at least I am running on 3* in the driveway now, and I know things do work -- wiring issue for sure.

 

[racerone]

This has been an epic struggle !

 

[jerryjerry05]

IF?? your running it in the driveway , just bend over and look above the prop.
The snout should be hanging there?
You ask for help but don't seem to really want to do anything but the far fetched things. ?????