1990 Force L-Drive 90hp -- Can't get it to idle -- losing my mind :D

[The Force power]

Oh. Well I'm hoping that's not causing my issue... Is it?

It could affect the crank-seals not sealing properly, resulting in crank-case pressure to transfer from one to the adjacent.
Realize that this is not a 4-stroke with a common bottom-end/crank-case pressure, but each crank section has its own sealed by the crank-seals

 

[Solace]

Ah okay that might be a problem for later, but right now it's FOR SURE electrical

 

[las]

To the people mentioning the red sealant. Why should that be a problem?
Of course if it's applied wrong! But that goes for anything else.
If the block is supposed to have a paper gasket of specific thickness, yes then tolerances will be of.
Please enlighten me.

 

[The Force power]

To the people mentioning the red sealant. Why should that be a problem?
Of course if it's applied wrong! But that goes for anything else.
If the block is supposed to have a paper gasket of specific thickness, yes then tolerances will be of.
Please enlighten me.

No paper gasket on these, but a blue sealer(permatex) that can be compressed is required there
Regular red RTV is thick & can not compressed enough to obtain the minimum clearance necessary

 

[las]

I can't speak on the engine or sealant used here, but i do know that ordinary red silicone sealant will smear out to no thickness at all, and withstand almost any chemical thrown at it. So I would have to disagree on this one, BUT I COULD BE WRONG!
I don't really fancy the stuff myself and use paper gaskets unless I have to use the other stuff.
Most mistake people make with sealant of this type is, they overdo it, and it ends up inside the engine.
A good trick when assembling engine halves, is to apply it and then smear it thin with your finger, wipe the inside and hope you didn't overdo it.

 

[Nordin]

Chrysler /Force engines has a spagetti seal at the split of the block, no paper gasket.
When I do a rebuilt I either reuse the spagetti seal if it is in fairly good shape and add some Permatex Form a Gasket liquid gasket or I use a rubber string (looks like o-ring rubber) which is gasoline/oil resistant and a small amount of Permatex liquid gasket.
The rubber string can be purchased on a roll in individual chosen lengths.
Sometimes if i have bought a complete gasket kit the spagetti seal is in that kit.
I use the Permatex stuff cause it comes with a brush in the cap and is easy to apply.

 

[Solace]

Ok so there’s some big electrical issues im
Having. Put on “pro” spark testers, adjustable gap, set to 1cm but it doesn’t really matter.

I was getting arcing so I wrapped the leads a bit better, problem solved, but no spark fire — they’re on the left by the way.

BUT LOOK AT THE LAST VIDEO, there is spark on #3 for a moment after turning the battery on and cranking, but then it just goes away. Could this be a clue?

clearly there’s a big short to ground somewhere right?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Loosing spark after a moment= regulator, short in the wiring harness, stator, trigger, blown fuse(some Bayliners, not many, had a fuse under the dash).
outboardignition.com has test procedures for your motor.
Some, when they rigged the boat for tops and windows they would drill into the wiring harness and cause problems.
Got called for service at a new customers house. He claimed the boat would when nobody was there try to start when it rained. I was working at the Bayliner dealer at the time.
Found who ever rigged the boat drilled into the harness and caused a short
that would turn the motor over when it rained.

 

[Solace]

Ok thanks so, we can agree I’ve got a big short somehwere then eh?

 

[Solace]

Ok this is SUPER weird I have a wiring diagram here that tells me only to connect one of the trigger leads to the CDI box. The other diagram says connect both :/

 

[Solace]

Well. Damn. Brand new stator from Crowley…. No continuity from brown yellow to brown yellow — and there’s supposed to be — I have continuity on the old stator in the same spot (which I was only guessing needed replacing).

so I think one of those is an open which is why my #3 wasn’t firing…

 

[Solace]

Omg brand new $400 stator is bad.

 

[Solace]

On positive note is that i can rip a flywheel off in like 8 minutes now….. ahah…

 

[Solace]

Damnit. Pinched wires on the stator and totally created an open circuit.

 

[Solace]

Looks like these wires got shorted straight into the motor, here’s my short to ground…. And these are coming right off the stator. This explains why only CYL 2 was reliable, as these two wires are power to CYL 1/3 and were dumping load into the motor body.

 

[Solace]

The wires got crushed from my throttle, it was installed 90 degrees wrong, I guess.
Got it all back together and no spark at all, hoping I didn’t fry CDI boxes :/

 

[Solace]

Omg spark on all 3!!!! I had to use my timing gun, I didn’t trust my spark gap testers, and I was right! Spark gun shoots light on every one!!!!

 

[Nordin]

Please you have to carmel down.
Start to troubleshoot in a logical way.
You are jumping all over, we are not able to give you advise when you do not work logical.
No advise from me when you jumping all over!!!!

 

[Solace]

It’s alive! Wouldn’t shut off by key again. How’s the motor sound now? Clearly gonna need to air mix adjust.

 

[Solace]

Here she is running on 3, but one of my #3 spark wire comes lose and drops back into 2 cylinders.