1990 Force L-Drive 90hp -- Can't get it to idle -- losing my mind :D

[Solace]

If I go from neutral to WOT in gear, the boat takes off, the carburetors are doing their job. I'm assuming this is good. It doesn't flood or otherwise die.

 

[Solace]

I've read up on bad out drives, I don't have any symptoms.
- Water in gear oil, no
- Metal bits in gear oil, no
- Clunking during gear shift, no

The gears operate real smooth, I can go reverse/forward really well.

 

[Redbarron%%]

Sorry you cannot listen to advice.
Try again.
IF THE MOTOR GOES TO MAX RPM "INSTANTLY" IT IS NOT BEING LOADED BY THE PROP AND IS RIDING ON THE REV LIMITER.
Since you fail to register the advice given you can save time and remove the black/yellow wires and over rev the engine and that solves your (and our) problem.
When you say WOT you are not telling us the RPM. WOT actually refers to the throttle position and not necessarily the RPM. If the boat is barely moving the power (If at high rpm 4700 - 5000 rpm more or less) then the power is not getting to the prop, no matter the cause.
If the RPM is riding on the limiter, if you remove that wire there will be no limit to the RPM other than the parts flying apart. Don't do that BUT THINK about what that means.
By the way you have been disrespectful, failed to respond to questions and ignored the advice offered in good faith to try to help you.
You are receiving what you have given.
I am sorry that you are the way you are, life must be difficult for you.
I apologize for being abrupt and disrespectful in return.

 

[Solace]

I'm wondering if my timing is still incorrect. I've tuned it to the first of the 3 notches on my fly wheel, but I wonder if that's what it's supposed to be. I pulled the plugs, grounded, ran at WOT in gear and jumped relay, measured with my timing gun. I believe this is 28 degrees.

I could be mistaken about how the timing gun is used, however..

 

[Solace]

Sorry you cannot listen to advice.
Try again.
IF THE MOTOR GOES TO MAX RPM "INSTANTLY" IT IS NOT BEING LOADED BY THE PROP AND IS RIDING ON THE REV LIMITER.
Since you fail to register the advice given you can save time and remove the black/yellow wires and over rev the engine and that solves your (and our) problem.
When you say WOT you are not telling us the RPM. WOT actually refers to the throttle position and not necessarily the RPM. If the boat is barely moving the power (If at high rpm 4700 - 5000 rpm more or less) then the power is not getting to the prop, no matter the cause.
If the RPM is riding on the limiter, if you remove that wire there will be no limit to the RPM other than the parts flying apart. Don't do that BUT THINK about what that means.
By the way you have been disrespectful, failed to respond to questions and ignored the advice offered in good faith to try to help you.
You are receiving what you have given.
I am sorry that you are the way you are, life must be difficult for you.
I apologize for being abrupt and disrespectful in return.

It doesn't go to maximum "INSTANTLY", I said the throttle responds instantly; when I push on the throttle from neutral to wide open, the motor responds without hesitation. I'm sure I attached video of my acceleration to explain what I meant...

My tachometer doesn't work, I'm using a timing gun with tach built in, but I'm starting to think my gun may not be fantastic. Was $160 CAD at the store... would hope for the price it doesn't suck.

 

[Redbarron%%]

What you need is just a cheap non-adjustable timing light. Advance in the timing light just confuses the issue. Set the timing light to Zero degrees (if this is a thing as I have no experience with this type of light.)
The advance should be per the book. Make certain that the #1 piston is at TDC when the 0 mark lines up at the mark. The flywheel should be marked at the proper advance.
Follow the link and sync posted at the top of this forum.
Step by step will help you.
A cheap tach that works off a spark plug wire will work. You have to take into account that the 2 stroke fires on every revolution so you might have to make an adjustment in the readings.
IF you are turning high RPM and not moving there is slippage either cavitation, prop hub or something else. The HP absorbed by the prop (or in my case the jet pump) increases on the square of RPM. A little difference in RPM makes a lot of difference in HP.
Here is a link to a service manual for the Sport Jet which is very similar to the L drive, but with a jet pump instead of the gearing to the outdrive.

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[Solace]

Most recent video

 

[Solace]

Thanks Barron, this service manual is a bit more detailed than what I'm using -- I have my timing set at 28, I think it needs to move to 32 at static.

 

[Solace]

Here’s the back view

 

[Solace]

Hey all just got back from water,

boat DRIVES at 3500 rpm maybe
boat can REV way higher at 7000 rpm

what… does this mean? Added two new videos for review. Video 1 is at dock in idle revving, WAY higher than under load.

I'm very certain the timing, link sync, carb air mixtures are correct. If I play with timing or air mixture by 1 full turn I lose engine power greatly.

 

[racerone]

Most motors will rev up in neutral !!!!-----That testing means NOTHING at all.---They rev up running on 2 of 3 cylinders.-----My lawnmower runs great on the driveway.-----Stalls when I push it too fast in tall grass.------POWER is what a motor needs to rev properly under a load.----Seems to be a difficult concept to some.----And yes I am blunt in my postings sometimes.

 

[Solace]

I understand the concept of power -- I'm asking what I should do to increase power under load..

 

[Solace]

Hey, I'm also using Octane 87, I can get either 91 or even 94 -- will try when this tank runs outa gas...

I have replaced the Anti Siphon valve and rebuilt the fuel pump diaphragm, checked for debris, and carbs are rebuilt. Could it be float bowl adjustments?

 

[The Force power]

My tachometer doesn't work, I'm using a timing gun with tach built in, but I'm starting to think my gun may not be fantastic. Was $160 CAD at the store... would hope for the price it doesn't suck.

as I mentioned in one one of my earlier post(s)
the timing light you're using has features directed to 4 STROKE motors
e.g. timing advance/retard & RPM reading

as Redbarron%% already mentioned; all you would need is a cheap timing light, however you can use the (one) function on your the flashing light

 

[The Force power]

I'm wondering if my timing is still incorrect. I've tuned it to the first of the 3 notches on my fly wheel, but I wonder if that's what it's supposed to be. I pulled the plugs, grounded, ran at WOT in gear and jumped relay, measured with my timing gun. I believe this is 28 degrees.

that is correct!

 

[Solace]

I got this timing light because it had tach built into it, but yeah I just leave it at 'zero' degrees to check stuff.

Maybe I'll pull the carbs off again and check the high jets, double check the float bowls, maybe I've adjusted them incorrectly and it's starving out at high load? I did adjust them slightly last time I cleaned them to be 'flatter', perhaps I made a mistake!

Edit: Looking up some symptoms of badly adjust float bowls, "You would notice this most at WOT situations if your float bowl was too low, not enough fuel will get in, your motor will starve".... neat.

 

[Solace]

For future reference if any one wants the measurements, look at step 8/10

 

[racerone]

I would say that if motor is only reaching 3000 RPM you have one cylinder not contributing POWER to reach 5000RPM.----This should be simple to diagnose.----Your motor needs 4 things to run.---Spark at the right time ( flywheel key )---Correct amount ( too much is no good ) of fuel.-----Compression in the cylinders.----Compression in the 3 crankcases.

 

[Solace]

Yeah I hear ya, maybe one of the floats is right screwed. Will report back over the weekend when I takem' apart.... for the 4th time.

 

[racerone]

Jumping all over the carburetors for the 5th time might not fix it.-----As suggested you need to do some orderly trouble shooting !!!