'1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

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lowkee

Lieutenant Commander
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Dec 13, 2008
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Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Not much forward progress today. I took some time to measure and cut the glass for the stringers. When I was measuring i noticed how little roughing I did on the initial sanding of the hull, so I took the afternoon to rough up and smooth out all of the hull areas which will be getting glass applied. This was a gentle reminder of just how horrid grinding was on the tear down. Luckily I've gotten used to the fiberglass feel and it doesn't even itch anymore (which could be bad.. :confused:).

Tomorrow begins the glassing of the stringers, which will likely eat up a good amount of poly. I'm 2/3 into my first 5 gallon pail and will likely eat into my second pail before the stringers and bulkheads are finished. I bought a 3rd bucket last week, so hopefully I'll be covered for the rest of the project. I sure hope so, at least.. my fish finder budget was spent a while ago ;)

Once the stringers are glassed and the bulkheads are in, I'll be on to the engine mount and installing the transom plate. Then comes the deck and the engine. That will truly be a milestone.
 

lowkee

Lieutenant Commander
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Dec 13, 2008
Messages
1,890
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

All I can say is.. this mat, whatever weight it is, sucks up resin, big time! Wetting out the 1st stringer took longer than expected, so I ended the night after only completing one, but man, it took an entire gallon of resin to get that mat wetted out. Granted, it was a 24 inch swath, 13 feet long, but geez that's a lot of resin.

I think it all went well, even with the odd curves and butting it against the transom (6 inch overlap on the transom itself). I'm getting better at picking spots to cut and overlap in order to conform to curves and angles, which is making my life much easier.

Tomorrow I'll be adding glass to the second stringer and temp mounting the transom plate, as I need to make a measurement from the rear engine mount, as I forgot to measure where the front engine mount goes before I removed it. Luckily the Brunswick Co has a sweet PDF archive with installation measurements for my 3.0L. You can View it here.

I also found (too late for me, but at least I can find out how far off I was) a transom cutout template on the same site, link here.

Once I get all of that measured, I can finally install the engine mount and bulkheads.

On a side note, I promised I would make a how-to video on creating templates for odd shaped items, so I'll try and get that done tomorrow as well. Heck, I may even go all out and make a how-to video on glassing in the stringer. I sure would have liked a video when i was starting out.
 

chrishayes

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
691
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

All I can say is.. this mat, whatever weight it is, sucks up resin, big time! Wetting out the 1st stringer took longer than expected, so I ended the night after only completing one, but man, it took an entire gallon of resin to get that mat wetted out. Granted, it was a 24 inch swath, 13 feet long, but geez that's a lot of resin.

I think it all went well, even with the odd curves and butting it against the transom (6 inch overlap on the transom itself). I'm getting better at picking spots to cut and overlap in order to conform to curves and angles, which is making my life much easier.

Tomorrow I'll be adding glass to the second stringer and temp mounting the transom plate, as I need to make a measurement from the rear engine mount, as I forgot to measure where the front engine mount goes before I removed it. Luckily the Brunswick Co has a sweet PDF archive with installation measurements for my 3.0L. You can View it here.

I also found (too late for me, but at least I can find out how far off I was) a transom cutout template on the same site, link here.

Once I get all of that measured, I can finally install the engine mount and bulkheads.

On a side note, I promised I would make a how-to video on creating templates for odd shaped items, so I'll try and get that done tomorrow as well. Heck, I may even go all out and make a how-to video on glassing in the stringer. I sure would have liked a video when i was starting out.

Wow, it is eerie how similar this post is to the one that I just wrote on my thread! And trust me, I know what you are going through on the fish finder budget being spent like oh, I dont know, months ago:eek: Look on the bright side though, at least you dont have anywhere to mount one anyways yet!
 

Mr.Swee

Cadet
Joined
Jul 16, 2009
Messages
17
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

You have posted much information. Thank You!! I'm hopeing your videos will help me.:D

Thank YOU
 

Rollerdave

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
33
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Wow, Lowkee, this has been a pretty good read.

I was impressed with the way you improved drainage and the way you fit those parts. they WERE boards, now they are boat parts. Good work!

RD
 

redfury

Commander
Joined
Jul 16, 2006
Messages
2,655
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Made me think of the custom display set up thrown around for the Hull extension boat...it just can't run the bilge blowers or start the motor(s) for ya!
 

slvrwolf1

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
56
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

All I can say is.. this mat, whatever weight it is, sucks up resin, big time! Wetting out the 1st stringer took longer than expected, so I ended the night after only completing one, but man, it took an entire gallon of resin to get that mat wetted out. Granted, it was a 24 inch swath, 13 feet long, but geez that's a lot of resin.

I think it all went well, even with the odd curves and butting it against the transom (6 inch overlap on the transom itself). I'm getting better at picking spots to cut and overlap in order to conform to curves and angles, which is making my life much easier.

Tomorrow I'll be adding glass to the second stringer and temp mounting the transom plate, as I need to make a measurement from the rear engine mount, as I forgot to measure where the front engine mount goes before I removed it. Luckily the Brunswick Co has a sweet PDF archive with installation measurements for my 3.0L. You can View it here.

I also found (too late for me, but at least I can find out how far off I was) a transom cutout template on the same site, link here.

Once I get all of that measured, I can finally install the engine mount and bulkheads.

On a side note, I promised I would make a how-to video on creating templates for odd shaped items, so I'll try and get that done tomorrow as well. Heck, I may even go all out and make a how-to video on glassing in the stringer. I sure would have liked a video when i was starting out.

I am in for the stringer video. I am nervous about doing my 79 crestliner. LOL guy told me the floor just had a small crack in it when I bought it from too much weight on the ski's storage. I looked at it and didnt look that bad till I tore in to it, but hey I am having fun with it. It will be great to see what I have accomplished when all is done.
 

lowkee

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
1,890
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

After a lazy weekend, I finally have a full update for everyone.

I spent the time finishing the bulkheads and getting to work on the deck template. I did not manage to make a how-to video on glassing the stringers, as the speed in which it must be done just didn't allow me take time out to video it. I will try to make a video about glassing around corners and curves in order to partly fulfill the promise today.

My fear of the stringers being too short came to fruition and I had to make caps for them. This certainly is not ideal, but at least it isn't catastrophic. The stringers will still be solid, so I'm not too devastated over it.

IMG_0001-4.JPG

I cut some cardboard as close as I could guestimate, but since it is too floppy, it was near impossible to judge exactly where it should meet the hull, so I bought a few sheet of pink foam and began using that as my template material. It actually cuts easier than cardboard, but at $9/sheet the major reason I opted for it was it doubling as flotation foam.

IMG_0002-4.JPG

Cardboard seems an easy templating material, but I quickly found it difficult to cut straight lines and trimming off small curved pieces is barely possible.

IMG_0003-4.JPG

The bulkheads are finally glassed (tabbed) in. I bedded and filleted them with PL. In the background you will also notice the fuel tank support. I purposely didn't spend much time on the tank support, because I worry it may see standing moisture often, so I want it to be able to air out if water does make it to the wood. I don't want a repeat of rot, especially in an area I cannot access.

IMG_0004-5.JPG

Using an engine mount placement guide I fabricated, I was able to finally place the engine mount. As with the other bulkheads, it is PL'd in place and filleted, then tabbed in with glass. I plan to wait until the engine is almost in to drill and mount the engine mount, just to keep it out of the way and also allow me more thought on how to place it without risking it being off a tiny bit.

IMG_0005-4.JPG

Here you can see the entire fuel tank support. I made it short so it can shed water easily. Below it you can now see the drainage pipe I added below it. This pipe is molded to the fore bulkhead yet spaced away from the aft one. This will allow any water which manages to sneak into the fuel tank area to drain out. The purpose of the pipe is to prevent blockage from leaves, etc from getting stuck inside the fuel tank bay, which will soon be inaccessible

IMG_0008-3.JPG

Here you can see the drain pipe. The PL filleting isn't very clean, but then again, it will never be seen.
 
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lowkee

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
1,890
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

IMG_0006-5.JPG

I finally got around to patching the hole I made in the hull during the teardown. I used a flexible cutting board as a semi-rigid backer with a piece of wax paper against the hull. I then placed a few layers of mat on the inside.

IMG_0010-3.JPG

I just used guerrilla tape to stick the backer to the hull. It worked so-so. I'm sure I'll have a good bit of sanding to do, but at least there isn't big gaping hole anymore, so there is forward progress. I noticed an air bubble I'll have to fix later, but no worries.

IMG_0012-3.JPG

The mounting holes and drain hole are now drilled in the transom. Judging the angle of the holes was difficult at best. I may have to adjust at least one hole later on. I haven't figured out how to inject resin into the holes to seal them. They will need sealing, though.

On the bottom drain, they don't seem to make drain plugs which are long enough, so I will likely use some 3/4" PVC to span the remaining distance. PVC isn't great, but it will be a barrier for the wood which isn't spanned by the brass drain.

IMG_0013-2.JPG

Ugh! The bad news.. the stringers are too short! In order to fix this I cut some 1" strips of 1/2" ply and poly'd them. I will PL them into place. The reason for the need is the fuel tank sits above the top edge of the stringers and I can't have the deck sitting on the fuel tank instead of the stringers.
 
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joethebuilder

Recruit
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
1
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Master Chief,
My name is BU1 Waddell, from Gulfport MS. I too have a 1990 capri that Im rebuilding from the hull up. Mine however is an outboard. I completly agree with your ten steps of denial! Learning alot as I go also. I'm at the grinding hull / fitting new deck wood stage. So painfull and dirty! I need your wisdom if you have some to spare! I know that my boat is a 1990 capri but cant figure what sub model it is! Any thoughts? Also know that I have an outboard mercury 2 cycle 150 but every website I go to lists like a million models! Any ideas on how Im susposed to figure out the exact model? any help you can throw my way would be awsome!
go Navy,
Joe waddell
 

lowkee

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
1,890
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Master Chief,
I know that my boat is a 1990 capri but cant figure what sub model it is! Any thoughts?

Head on over to the Bayliner forum and post a photo of it. Besides my own, I have no idea what models bayliner made. There are others here that will likely take one glance and likely tell you without a doubt, though.

Good luck with your restore. Make a thread and share with others if you have the time. We learn from each other on here. I would have a mickey-moused boat if it wasn't for this forum and other peoples' posts.
 

slvrwolf1

Seaman
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
56
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

very nice job. The pics are great and it really helps me out on mine to see what you are doing. I dont feel like I am going into this not knowing anything about it. I took my fuel tank out and that was exactly what I found moisture and leaves. I think I may do what you did to have better drainage in that area. I was also thinking of making some kinda door access or something so I can get to the tank area in case I have to do any repairs to the elecrical or replace the fuel sending unit or something.
 

chrishayes

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
691
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

After a lazy weekend, I finally have a full update for everyone.

I spent the time finishing the bulkheads and getting to work on the deck template. I did not manage to make a how-to video on glassing the stringers, as the speed in which it must be done just didn't allow me take time out to video it. I will try to make a video about glassing around corners and curves in order to partly fulfill the promise today.

My fear of the stringers being too short came to fruition and I had to make caps for them. This certainly is not ideal, but at least it isn't catastrophic. The stringers will still be solid, so I'm not too devastated over it.

IMG_0001-4.JPG

I cut some cardboard as close as I could guestimate, but since it is too floppy, it was near impossible to judge exactly where it should meet the hull, so I bought a few sheet of pink foam and began using that as my template material. It actually cuts easier than cardboard, but at $9/sheet the major reason I opted for it was it doubling as flotation foam.

IMG_0002-4.JPG

Cardboard seems an easy templating material, but I quickly found it difficult to cut straight lines and trimming off small curved pieces is barely possible.

IMG_0003-4.JPG

The bulkheads are finally glassed (tabbed) in. I bedded and filleted them with PL. In the background you will also notice the fuel tank support. I purposely didn't spend much time on the tank support, because I worry it may see standing moisture often, so I want it to be able to air out if water does make it to the wood. I don't want a repeat of rot, especially in an area I cannot access.

IMG_0004-5.JPG

Using an engine mount placement guide I fabricated, I was able to finally place the engine mount. As with the other bulkheads, it is PL'd in place and filleted, then tabbed in with glass. I plan to wait until the engine is almost in to drill and mount the engine mount, just to kjeep it out of the way and also allow me more thought on how to place it without risking it being off a tiny bit.

IMG_0005-4.JPG

Here you can see the entine fual tank support. I made it short so it can shed water easily. Below it you can now see the drainage pipe I added below it. This pipe is molded to the fore bulkhead yet spaced away from the aft one. This will allow any water which manages to sneak into the fuel tank area to drain out. The purpose of the pipe is to prevent blockage from leaves, etc from getting stuck inside the fuel tank bay, which will soon be inaccessible

IMG_0008-3.JPG

Here you can see the drain pipe. The PL filleting isn't very clean, but then again, it will never be seen.

wow, again, this is eerie, we are basically building the same boat! Love to see others using the same methods as mine. Gives me a feeling that I am not screwing this up too bad...I like what you have done so far but the tank support being short of the bulkheads seems like a not so good idea. I have never seen this done and I think there is a reason for that. The edges of this support MUST be glassed at the very least for this to work and not rot where as the way I am doing it those edges will be butted to the bulkhead with PL and then have an overlap of glass over the joint which contains the water to the half moon drain holes that I put in the bulkheads at the level of the tank support. If that doesnt make sense you will see in a week or so once I get this portion of mine done and post photos. I also placed a small stringer under the support to provide stability to the keel and for some support of the tank base itself. Why is it that you didnt? When I was researching putting in a permanent tank this was recommended to me by most everyone of the "big dogs" of iboats so that the keel wouldnt have a week spot under the tank. I am curious as to how you came up with your set up. Not putting it down just curious...
 

chrishayes

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
691
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

you know what, I am an idiot. I just noticed that the reason you likely did this is that you have the motor mount directly behind the bulkhead which wouldnt allow you to put drainage at the tank base level. Sorry. Still make sure you seal the edges of the ply and I hope the PVC is enough to give lateral support to the keel.
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Thats really good progress. Nice quality work.
 

indy440

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
400
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

nice work... I'd like to do that some day...
 

howlnmad

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
178
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Wow! What a nice job :D. I just started looking at this forum today as a guest and came across this thread and sat nd read every post and had to join. That's a true labor of love. I have a 89 cuddie that needs some serious interior and structure work also. You give me hope, thank you. my problem is that now I want more so I must ask you to work faster and post more pix, I'm really jonesing. Again, what a fantastic job. Thanks for sharing.
 

chrishayes

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
691
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'

Wow! What a nice job :D. I just started looking at this forum today as a guest and came across this thread and sat nd read every post and had to join. That's a true labor of love. I have a 89 cuddie that needs some serious interior and structure work also. You give me hope, thank you. my problem is that now I want more so I must ask you to work faster and post more pix, I'm really jonesing. Again, what a fantastic job. Thanks for sharing.

Boy, that will make your craptastic grinding days seem a bit less dreary huh! Howlnmad, that was a very nice compliment. Lowkee, you rock man!
 
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