1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Okay, the fuse block didn't turn out the way I wanted in the dash since the back cover of the dash was all FG and I didn't want to cut that much out and weaken the structure. I mounted it underneath near my leg. I can get to it okay but really I just need to be able to turn stuff off and on when I first get going. Everything else is at my finger tips.

I also installed my Garmin Sounder, VHF Radio and Antenna, Compass and Stereo with XM. Everything worked as described yesterday when I splashed her again.

We took her out of San Diego and played in the water by the bay and then hauled her over to another ramp to watch a jazz concert. There is a venue that holds concerts where people on boats tie up to one another and you can see and hear everything great. It was another awesome day on the water.

Hope everyone had a great weekend and got a little time to play as well!

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Update on the boat. I was able to install the fuse panel which I connected my stereo, Garmin sounder and VHF radio to. I also installed a VHF radio antenna, SS single trumpet horn, Bimini top and flag stand (not pictured).

We took her out on Sunday for Mother's day and enjoyed San Diego bay. The girls swam, while I tested out my new anchor. I need to know what I need to install on the bow so I can tie the anchor off up front. I used a cleat that was just past midship but it current kept spinning us and I would have preferred a bow tie off. So please let me know.

After the swim time, we pulled up anchor and placed her back on the trailer for a quick trip to the other side of San Diego where we dropped anchor and listened to an outdoor concert at Humphrey's By The Bay. It's a cool hotel that holds concerts where boaters can tie off to one another and listen to the music, while the people in the crowd pay $60 or more. Plus we all bring wine, prefer beer, cheese and crackers and other snakes to enjoy. It's a great time.

Tomorrow gonna finish up on the electrical and get my add-a-batter done. The fuse panel called for a 2 AWG wire since I was running it nearly 20 feet (40 round trip). I thought that was a BIG wire but I guess with a 60 AMP capable pull that's what I needed

New Bimini, horn, lights, VHF radio antenna and flag (not pictured)

New Garmin Sounder (not pictured), VHF radio and compus

New stereo box & stereo

The Admiral and me enjoying the music

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Well I made it through a great season. Added a few items (Bimini top, trim tabs and lighting). Made a few rookie mistakes (coming in too hot and chipping the bow - at least I knew how to fix it) but now I'm back in dry dock (modified).

The next project is redoing the cuddy. I've ripped out the carpet and want to add some 1/4 padding and then white vinyl to match the rest of the upholstery. I also want to make the most forward area an anchor locker with self drainage.

*** Need Help ***

1. What is the best way to add an anchor locker and what should I add to hold the anchor? I was thinking something simple like this.

2. How do I add running lights to a pulpit? Are they predrilled for wiring?

3. What is the best way to create drainage holes? Drill and seal through hulls as low to the bottom of the anchor chain on both sides and allow for gravity drainage?

4. Should I seal up the front area or leave it open in case the line and chain get tangled?

5. When I tore out the carpet the inside of the hull was covered with 1708. There isn't any thin spots but since I'm going to cover up the area with padding and vinyl, should I grind it down a little and add some for safe measure or leave well enough alone?

6. I'm also taking out the double seat on the starboard side so I can put a Captain's chair. Any recommendations on type of chair or is it Captain's preference? I want to sit high enough to be over the windshield.

Thanks in advance!!!

 

[tpenfield]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

I fabricated and installed an anchor locker in my 24 foot cuddy . . .

Here is a link to my project pages.

Anchor Locker Project

I made the locker water tight, just in case I ever stuffed the bow.

If you use a pulpit as you have pictured, the anchor can be housed on the pulpit, but you will still want access from topside to feed line, deal with snags, etc. Plus, if you go water tight (to the cuddy), then your only access is from the deck.

I hope this helps.

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Tpenfield

Thanks for the tip. I'll probably have to go with a pulpit since the area that I'm working with won't be able to house the anchor. I might be able to make a small hatch forward of the glass hatch (pictured). Then I can do it like the pictures.

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Hey man, glad to see your still working on her. You will love having a bow pulpit if it is set up correctly. Take your time with this and consider making your own pulpit. Just remember if you mount a pulpit, the underside of that bow really need to be reinforced with some 3/4 plywood and glassed in to carry the load of an anchor, bow pulpit and the stress when anchored.

The drain if it is above the water line which it should be on your boat, can be installed at the bottom of the rope box you make. This will drain the water from anchor line and also add a little but not much air flow which is needed so you don't rott your line.

As far as your seating, thats a tricky one because you might find it uncomfortable steering if you are to far above the helm.

There is no reason to add any glass to the bow interior, your just creating alot of work for yourself. If your covering it in pad and vinyl I would just gently grind off any high spots. Just not to much. Rock on brother!

Ohh, and as far as running a light to the front of the pulpit, you can route out a small channel in the bottom of the pulpit and run your wires to the front that way. Then just drill a hole through pulpit where the light of your choice will mount.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

How in the world did I miss this thread? That was awesome!!! It brings back some memories though Anyway very nice job!!

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Hey man, glad to see your still working on her. You will love having a bow pulpit if it is set up correctly. Take your time with this and consider making your own pulpit. Just remember if you mount a pulpit, the underside of that bow really need to be reinforced with some 3/4 plywood and glassed in to carry the load of an anchor, bow pulpit and the stress when anchored.

The drain if it is above the water line which it should be on your boat, can be installed at the bottom of the rope box you make. This will drain the water from anchor line and also add a little but not much air flow which is needed so you don't rott your line.

As far as your seating, thats a tricky one because you might find it uncomfortable steering if you are to far above the helm.

There is no reason to add any glass to the bow interior, your just creating alot of work for yourself. If your covering it in pad and vinyl I would just gently grind off any high spots. Just not to much. Rock on brother!

Ohh, and as far as running a light to the front of the pulpit, you can route out a small channel in the bottom of the pulpit and run your wires to the front that way. Then just drill a hole through pulpit where the light of your choice will mount.

CC - Thanks for all the great advice. I didn't even think about reinforcing the bow but that makes total sense. The picture which shows the half bulkhead toward the bow, should I cut that neatly (so I can PB and glass back in) making it easier to drill and install the drain holes or is that creating unnecessary work? I'm going to use SS on both sides. I like the way yours turned out.

I've been checking your threads status but sounds like you've taken a little break like I did. Looking forward to seeing your progress in 2013.

Frisco - Your Sea Ray thread was awesome. Between iboats & your videos were the only reasons I got this project done. Looking forward to seeing the progress on the new boat. Follow you on FB as well.

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Wow it looks like my last posting was around this time last year. Well 2014 will offer up some new surprises & up grades. Next week I will be starting the cuddy restoration. Deck demo not sure but def new gel coat, vinyl padding on the side hull & padded carpet on top. Adding some lighting for those quiet moments & a new captains helm. Started it off today with 4 fresh shinny wheels. No more rust! Sorry I've been UA but there is a good reason; my soccer stud goalkeeper daughter was recruited by Penn State so we spent a ton of flight hours between San Diego & happy valley. This summer should be manageable. I want that trip to Catalina island!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Go Penn State, congrats.

Welcome back. Good luck on the pending work.

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville - Adding A Bow Pulpit

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville - Adding A Bow Pulpit

So I got at it this morning. I think the 1st place to start will be adding a bow pulpit. I bought one and want to make sure that its a right fit for my boat. I laid it out on the deck and took several pictures of what I'm thinking. Questions: 1. Is it positioned right or should I move it out over the bow more? I can move it out further without it causing a problem with my truck. 2. I'm guessing that I'll need to take a shim and level it out since my deck is slightly angled down??? 3. Inside the cuddy I'm going to cut out the board where the rode will be held. I'm going to put drain holes at the bottom for gravity drainage. I was thinking about creating a flat surface with a drain hole, connected to rubber hose which will be connected to a thru hull fitting. Does that sound right? 4. What grit sand paper should I use to sand and varnish the wood and should I use an epoxy resin?

Once I get the drain holes all done I'll seal that area up so no water intrudes and incase I stuff my bow I'll have a bulkhead protecting the cuddy. Here are some pics.

 

[ShellBack89]

1988 Sea Ray Seville - Adding A Bow Pulpit

1988 Sea Ray Seville - Adding A Bow Pulpit

Here is another pic from above which shows the bow light that I'll connect.



This is the model I'm going off of....

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Or......Can I just mount an anchor roller on the bow, secure it with a backing plate (glassed in), install STBD/PORT running lights, deck pipe, anchor lock and call it a day???

I'm just weighting my options.....

Any advice would be great!

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

I went with adding a bow roller rather than the pulpit. It just looked better. I've measured, cut and glassed the top and bottom of the deck/bow reinforcement. I'm using 3/4 ply with 2 layers of CSM on the top and 2 layers of CSM & 1 layer of 1708. My question is should I PB or PL it it to the underside of the deck? I'll finishing glassing with PB fillets & tabbing.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

PB
You can proceed to fillets & glassing almost immediately. Use PL & it'll take 72hrs + to off gas, so you'll have a 3 day wait to proceed.

Besides, PB will cure quick enough that a good temp brace will be sufficient. Use PL & it'd had better be a good clamp setup, that won't move or shift during the 3 day wait..........

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

PB
You can proceed to fillets & glassing almost immediately. Use PL & it'll take 72hrs + to off gas, so you'll have a 3 day wait to proceed.

Besides, PB will cure quick enough that a good temp brace will be sufficient. Use PL & it'd had better be a good clamp setup, that won't move or shift during the 3 day wait..........

Thanks JB. Will get that done on Tuesday and hopefully have some pics.

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Update - Got my bow roller, chalks, cleat, anchor lock and haws pipe installed. PB support deck with 3/4 in ply glassed with CSM on both sides and added 1708 on the bottom. This thing isn't going anywhere! I'll finish fillets and glassing in the sides this week.








I've already got the new bulk head cut to inclose this area once I cut my drain holes and install the running lights I'll get that glassed in. I'm going to cut out an access hatch incase I need into the anchor locker.


I'm not sure if its smart or correct but I'm thinking about adding a U bolt facing in toward the anchor locker. I'll have a length of chain connected to the last part of the rode which will connect to the the U bolt. This way the anchor can't be lost over board by mistake. I'll have a some type of release in the event that I need to ditch the anchor (not sure why but don't want to chance fate either). THOUGHTS???