1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

  • Center Console

    Votes: 7 38.9%
  • Side (or Side by Side) console

    Votes: 11 61.1%

  • Total voters
    18
  • Poll closed .

KennethfromGA

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Messages
105
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

vroom vroom noises sound so much better in two stroke instead of one throat

Good luck
 

laurentide

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
1,869
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Wiring looks great, man. I'm going through the same process right now. While it's one of the final stages of the project, it's also been the most challenging to me, and surprisingly time consuming. Your electrical setup looks very well thought-out and executed.
 

Pmccraney

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
1,734
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Thanks guys... Appreciate it!

Unfortunately, there were no vroom vroom noises in my driveway tonight... I know of at least one issue (my choke plunger is not activating and diving down into the choke solenoid to engage the choke)... I don't think its the way I wired the starter switch, because it was working every now and then... I think I've got some old wires on the motor side or maybe the solenoid is going bad (I'll check it). In any event, I manually engaged the choke to try to get it to start and it still wouldn't...

I've got some trouble-shooting to think through...
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Unless your choke has two wires going to it, the ground is supplied by the connection between the choke case and the area where it is mounted on the engine...If that area is not directly attached to a section of the motor where the ground strap of the battery is connected, I would suggest that, A-you route a wire from the ground strap connection to one of the mounting bolts of the choke solenoid or the area that it is mounted on...and, B-make sure all the attachment points where you need a ground are free of any paint or other debri which will cause a false ground...
Good Luck.
 

Pmccraney

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
1,734
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Well friends,
The saga continues:

http://forums.iboats.com/johnson-ev...ng-help-ignition-switch-older-omc-614084.html

I bought a spark tester at Auto Zone on the way home from work... Got my son to turn the key while I checked for spark at 7/16 gap... Nothing.... no spark on any 4 of the coils.. HOWEVER, I was able to get the engine to fire through some serious shade-tree engineering... I basically bypassed by control box, by unplugging the big red plug... I choked the carbs with manually closing the choke valves (by jamming a sharpie pen in there)... Then, I jumped the solenoid with a piece of wire... She started to act she wanted to start, but was dying quickly... So, I took out the pen to give her some air and she fired right up:


I've basically shared this on my Johnny-Rude thread, but posting here as well... Something is wrong in my control box, because something in there is killing my spark (maybe the way I have the kill circuit wired in the starter switch).

Any thoughts?
 

Trooper82

Commander
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
2,648
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Well she sounds good once started....I'd say you got it figured out....would have to be that kill switch if you by passed it and it worked...there are my thoughts...
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

I agree with bypassing the kill switch...if you do and it runs OK, then its wired wrong...
Any update on the choke solenoid?
 

Pmccraney

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
1,734
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

I agree with bypassing the kill switch...if you do and it runs OK, then its wired wrong...
Any update on the choke solenoid?

Yes, I do believe its wired wrong... I don't have a separate kill switch/harness wired in (this is a 1974 remote back when gadgets weren't required to be safe). there is a kill circuit within the starter switch (i.e. how the motor dies when you turn the key back to the left). See below...

Unless your choke has two wires going to it, the ground is supplied by the connection between the choke case and the area where it is mounted on the engine...If that area is not directly attached to a section of the motor where the ground strap of the battery is connected, I would suggest that, A-you route a wire from the ground strap connection to one of the mounting bolts of the choke solenoid or the area that it is mounted on...and, B-make sure all the attachment points where you need a ground are free of any paint or other debri which will cause a false ground...
Good Luck.

See below picture of my choke solenoid... It has 2 wires coming out of the bottom, and it also has a ground wire attached to the stud where it is attached to the intake..



Thanks for you help fellas...
 

lokonn

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Messages
443
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Glad to hear it running! Gotta believe you are on right track with kill/shutdown wiring.
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Darn it:noidea:...I wish I was there with my Power Probe:ballchain:...I'd get this thing figured out within a week or three:twitch:...I swear, I'd :whip: it into shape...:whistle:
:D
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,409
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Do the choke butterflies close fully at the same time? from the picture, it appears as if they're out-of-sync (Top = \ and Bottom = /)...which can happen if you've switched the top/bottom carb w/out adjusting the linkage...at least that's what happens on a 3cyl :noidea: (guess how I know that :lol:)

EDIT: As you were! I stared at this for a bit...impossible to switch t/b carbs unless you've removed the butterfly shafts.
 
Last edited:

Pmccraney

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
1,734
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Yeah, I put them back on (I had them labeled top and bottom) - even though it would have been hard to mess up. The flaps close simultaneously. The linkage is good. I'm just: (a) not getting good power to the solenoid; or (b) the solenoid is dying.

As luck would have it: I tore into my remote last night. My wiring harness is way too long anyway, because I've moved my consoles back with the new front casting deck. So, I thought: "I am just going to rewire this thing completely." I cut the wiring harness back a couple of feet to expose some new fresh wire that I can make new connections from (boy, the wires look all pretty, colorful, flexible and fresh). But, I was trying to remove the wiring from the connections on neutral start in safety switch, they were rusted together and I actually pulled the spades out of the safety switch itself... It may still work, but I'll probably have to order a new one. Its NLA, so I'm calling around. I'm tired of throwing parts at a 1974 remote control box, but its still cheaper than buying a new one..
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,892
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Is it the OMC #0385659 neutral?
 

Pmccraney

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
1,734
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

I believe the part No. is 0385698.

I have got a few lines out - its fairly pricey... I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new toggle switch and solenoid assembly, because I found both very reasonably priced. I know its taboo to throw parts at the problem, but while I'm in there, I'm going to replace some of the old stuff (just preventative maintenance if you will).

Thanks,
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,892
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

You need the harness? Or the neutral switch?

I think your # is the harness, mine was the switch......
The harness that you are after is part # 0385698.
http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.aspx?s1=12db4cf3b8ca09f300ea7a799d99b30c
That link will allows you to find a dealer that stocks the part.

EDIT:
The iboats server redacted the link I quoted from Tim. I used the link from his original post. If you click over to his post, the link should be live. It too may get redacted at some point. LIVE currently...

From that link clicking thru to a 1974 85hp remote:

Item # 69 ~ part # 0385698 inst. cable assy., Std NLA

Versus:

Item # 68 ~ part # 0385659 Switch assy., Neutral Start NLA

I got the same info from Marin@Eng1ne_com


You've got my #, I found a $50 NOS switch part # 0385659, if that's what you're after.
 
Last edited:

Pmccraney

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
1,734
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Yeah, its the latter one (Item #68 - Part No. 0385659) - I had the part no. wrong in my earlier post.

I've got a call into my local mechanic.. If he can't provide (or locate one cheaper), I'll give you a shout.

Thanks,
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,892
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

OK.

I think you'll get the coded message :D

(Redacted to protect the source)

Good luck ;)

Hope ya get it figured out.
 
Last edited:

Pmccraney

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
1,734
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Thanks JBC, I already ordered the part from said encrypted supplier. :).
 

Pmccraney

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
1,734
Re: 1988 Sea Nymph GLS - 17'

Well fellas: A blind squirrel does find a nut every now and then... I tested all my switches this morning (neutral safety, choke and the horn)... Pretty cool, you ground the tan wire and it will wake up everyone in your house :)...

Then, I rewired all of the terminal connections... Turned the key (nothing)... I was bummed... Then, I remembered (one must turn the battery switch to "On"). Did that, turned the key, and she roared to life...

I'm pretty pumped about right now:

 
Top