1987 Starcraft Islander 220V Rebuild

[classiccat]

Acetone good for right near the seal. I’ve found Denatured alcohol to be super aggressive at dissolving it.

yeah it looks like you’ve gotta year down that splashwell area again... I bet that cap will conform to the new/correct angle.

 

[scott hamilton]

Trial and error...I removed the splashwell and the supports connecting the transom to the stringers that I had just installed. So, if you're doing this job do not reinstall the splashwell from the bottom up. I reassembled the splashwell and am getting ready to install it as a complete unit. After the topside comes together properly with the gunnel I will fit the supports to the transom and then finally solid rivet them to the stringers. Live and learn. I don't work much with metal.

And, I did do a leak test at the launch and switched out the trailer with my 18 holiday (actually a Sylvan Skipper). At least sitting in the water hull is dry. I didn't see any leaking rivets. Good news on that...

 

[SHSU]

Looking Good!!!!

Ya, every project has its learning curve. In my opinion it is what makes it fun and gives that extra bit of pride when you tell people you did it yourself.

SHSU

 

[SGarland]

Nice!

 

[scott hamilton]

Its been awhile. I had a slight delay of game but have been making some progress. Splashwell is in. Hull was prepped and painted (sprayed bottom, inside and outside) using Petit shipendec (easypoxy) dull dead grass. 2 coats took a full gallon. Its sticking really good and is great stuff. Most of the bare aluminum was primed with petit 6455 which I had leftover from a project before. I don't think you can even get 6455 anymore which is a shame bc that's great stuff too. Im getting ready to install the gas tank and need some advice.

FUEL TANK INSTALLATION QUESTIONS (not gonna foam it in):
1. What do I place the tank on? Closed cell neoprene rubber?
2. What do you use for NPT fittings? Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3?
3. How to secure the tank to the stringer? Have 90 degree aluminum bracket welded to top of tank and bolt to stringer?
Or is this not needed?

I appreciate your experience with the tank.

 

[SHSU]

Looking really good!!


1. What do I place the tank on? Closed cell neoprene rubber? For my tank, I put it forward of middle and glued neoprene rubber pads to all contact points between tank and ribs.

2. What do you use for NPT fittings? Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3? I used that and permatex #2 gasket sealer when installing the fuel sender.

3. How to secure the tank to the stringer? Have 90 degree aluminum bracket welded to top of tank and bolt to stringer?
As for securing it, Yes should be done. That is a lot of weight to have shift on you. I had 90 degree brackets welded to the top as well and then solid riveted it to the stringers.

SHSU

 

[Watermann]

Not a fan of changing the design of fuel tank mounting, there should be a slip joint between the tank and the boat structure. My fuel tank hold downs are riveted to the deck supports and there's high density neoprene rubber mounting strips between the tank and the hold down mounts.

If there isn't the slip joint between the boat and tank then your fuel tank becomes part of the boats structure and any forces exerted on the hull. No need to weld anything to the tank using the hold down method I described above.

 

[scott hamilton]

Any one have a opinion on bilge pumps? I see many brands. I'm not afraid to spend the money if needed but thought I'd ask what people think. Size and brand.

 

[Watermann]

I've only heard bad reviews on the Attwood pumps and I believe only the ones with the integrated float switches. Which brings me to make the suggestion to use only a separate float switch. For my boats the bilge pumps are the least used equipment I have and only get ran where I test them before leaving my house.

Most of the bilge pumps and hose put in by the factory use the 3/4" fitting thru the hull so that limits the GPH of your pump to 800 unless you cut a larger hole and use the 1-1/8 discharge filling. This is my setup.

Also Scott I have some forum etiquette advice if I may, please think about replying to advice given by other members. Not doing so can make others who take the time to reply think they are being ignored and the next time may just decide to move on returning the ignore. It also helps build forum member rapport.

 

[scott hamilton]

Looking really good!!


1. What do I place the tank on? Closed cell neoprene rubber? For my tank, I put it forward of middle and glued neoprene rubber pads to all contact points between tank and ribs.

2. What do you use for NPT fittings? Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3? I used that and permatex #2 gasket sealer when installing the fuel sender.

3. How to secure the tank to the stringer? Have 90 degree aluminum bracket welded to top of tank and bolt to stringer?
As for securing it, Yes should be done. That is a lot of weight to have shift on you. I had 90 degree brackets welded to the top as well and then solid riveted it to the stringers.

SHSU

Thanks for the information! I saw Waterman's advice below too (although a little late). So, I had brackets welded and am going to use vibration isolators (https://www.mcmaster.com/5823K5/) between the 90 degree tab and boats structure. I have the neoprene (from XCEL) and permatex too so pretty close to installation. I'm planning on using 7X12 inch pieces of 3/4 inch plywood glued to hull and neoprene between tank and plywood. It probably doesn't matter versus neoprene on the ribs but I thought this method would distribute weight better. I'll post some pics of the install.

 

[scott hamilton]

Not a fan of changing the design of fuel tank mounting, there should be a slip joint between the tank and the boat structure. My fuel tank hold downs are riveted to the deck supports and there's high density neoprene rubber mounting strips between the tank and the hold down mounts.

If there isn't the slip joint between the boat and tank then your fuel tank becomes part of the boats structure and any forces exerted on the hull. No need to weld anything to the tank using the hold down method I described above.

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Thanks for the info! I had the brackets welded before I saw your post. (and after I saw the post above recommended welded tabs) So, doing brackets. I do see your point and actually that's how the tank was installed from the factory although it was foamed in (which I do not want to do. I'm going to use vibration isolators (https://www.mcmaster.com/5823K5/) between the four 90 degree tabs and the boats structure. The tank will also be padded in all directions with the neoprene. Hopefully, this solves the problem you describe above. I'll post some pics of the install.

 

[scott hamilton]

I've only heard bad reviews on the Attwood pumps and I believe only the ones with the integrated float switches. Which brings me to make the suggestion to use only a separate float switch. For my boats the bilge pumps are the least used equipment I have and only get ran where I test them before leaving my house.

Most of the bilge pumps and hose put in by the factory use the 3/4" fitting thru the hull so that limits the GPH of your pump to 800 unless you cut a larger hole and use the 1-1/8 discharge filling. This is my setup.

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Also Scott I have some forum etiquette advice if I may, please think about replying to advice given by other members. Not doing so can make others who take the time to reply think they are being ignored and the next time may just decide to move on returning the ignore. It also helps build forum member rapport.

Got it! Is that 2 bilge pumps there? Or is one for a live well? Also if it has a switch can it also be turned on manually?

 

[scott hamilton]

Well, I've got several hours into this piece. Unfortunately, the original was too rotten to save for the pattern. This should be the most challenging carpentry in the project. Also, all the internal floor pieces are cleaned up and painted. In the process of dry fitting everything back together and preparing for permanent installation.

 

[Watermann]

Got it! Is that 2 bilge pumps there? Or is one for a live well? Also if it has a switch can it also be turned on manually?

Yes the pump is wired so it can be manually switched on at the helm as well and the thru the transom pump is for the livewell

 

[SHSU]

You are moving right along there.

For the bilge pump question, I have a Johnson 1000 GPH with a separate float switch. It also can be manly turn on at the helm. It is the only "accessory" that is wired direct the the engine battery. So it is always "Hot".

As far as use, like Watermann mentioned, test from panel and float switch every time before we go out. I have occasionally turned it on at times when it got rough out and we were taking a pretty good pounding with water coming over the Bow. Otherwise, it gets a cleaning when we do the washout at home (Water in bilge gets high enough to trigger the float switch).

SHSU

 

[scott hamilton]

Anyone have a fuel filter / water separator recommendation? 1998 Yamaha 150. And anything I need to know about where to install? I have never used one but reading it’s a hood idea

 

[SHSU]

Mueller sells a kit that covers what you need. Nothing to fancy, some have the "water" bowl at the bottom you can view to see if you are getting water, but that is up to you. Plus it covers if any junk gets into your tank and helps prevent it from getting to the engine.

SHSU

 

[Watermann]

I have the water separator filters on both my boats. I don't have or can't find a pic of how I set up my SS, this is the Chief. The SS I have an 8" deck plate in the SW and the filter is inside under the SW mounted forward on a bracket

 

[scott hamilton]

I have the water separator filters on both my boats. I don't have or can't find a pic of how I set up my SS, this is the Chief. The SS I have an 8" deck plate in the SW and the filter is inside under the SW mounted forward on a bracket

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I got a Racor ordered 320R-RAC-01. I’ll have to figure out mounting location. I have the battery going in a storage area just behind the tank. Is it ok to mount the fuel filter inside the same compartment where battery is located?

also, Is that rubber hose for your bilge?

 

[Watermann]

Yeah mounting location should be what's most convenient so you can and will be able to replace the filter easiest. It shouldn't leak fuel and not enough line permeation to worry about.

The bilge pump discharge is 3/4" ID auto parts fuel/oil resistant line.