1987 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II - First Time Rebuild - Floor, Engine, Dash, etc.

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ACon977

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I'd store it, that way you will never damage the rubrail insert :bounce: They can shrink also, so if that happens you can add a filler piece. If you throw it away you will damage the rubber the first time you go out lol!

Haha that is the absolute truth now isn't it. Lol, it'll go on a shelf for now. Just don't want to accumulate too much stuff. I already have a bad habit of doing that
 

ACon977

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Nice work! I bet you're glad that's done. I know that's a pain. You're getting closer though.

Closer every day! It's feeling better with each thing getting checked off the list
 

zroe89

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Still tracking down your voltage problem? Wish I had mine uncovered so I could trace my wires and follow along to help you out.
Bypassing the NSS would help prove if that is the source of the voltage loss. The other test might be to turn the ignition to the run position and then just jumper the starter solenoid while monitoring your voltages. This should allow for spark while simultaneously giving you the maximum voltage and minimum variables.
On a side note, is your battery a maintenance free version or could it possibly need to be topped off with distilled water? It sure is dying on you fast which makes it hard to troubleshoot for any length of time.
Best of luck!
 

mickyryan

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ok this def sounds like a bad connection, check voltage from battery then compare to whats at solinoid if thats good then id check ground to block from battery.
 

ACon977

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Still tracking down your voltage problem? Wish I had mine uncovered so I could trace my wires and follow along to help you out.
Bypassing the NSS would help prove if that is the source of the voltage loss. The other test might be to turn the ignition to the run position and then just jumper the starter solenoid while monitoring your voltages. This should allow for spark while simultaneously giving you the maximum voltage and minimum variables.
Thanks boss, on friday I went out and did some digging on the electrical, bypassed the NSS and it didnt really change anything. Very curious so I put it on the charger to see if it was just low. Ill admit, i broke the cables on my multimeter and didnt get out to the store until late yesterday so didnt do any additional testing.


On a side note, is your battery a maintenance free version or could it possibly need to be topped off with distilled water? It sure is dying on you fast which makes it hard to troubleshoot for any length of time.
Best of luck!
I believe I purchased the maintenance free one. I didnt want to add in another variable by having to add water to it.
 

ACon977

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ok this def sounds like a bad connection, check voltage from battery then compare to whats at solinoid if thats good then id check ground to block from battery.

Yea thats what I thought as well. Maybe I just need to rewire the whole thing. I had good voltage prior to engaging the solenoid then it would drop down very low. I purchased a new Fuse box which should work well as a distribution point. Hopefully that can help to reduce any poor connections that are in the wiring now.

IMG_20200413_085754_copy_1536x2730.jpg

I picked up some 12G wire. Figured it was a tad overkill but didnt want to use the 18 that I have on hand. I want to say that the wiring in there now is 14? Figured going a step up was better. Anyone have any caution as to why this is a bad idea?
 

ACon977

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I also went through when it was nice out and pulled all the Vynil off the side accent pieces. Traced them onto new wood and cut out new backer boards. The foam was still in pretty good shape so Ill likely reuse it. Also kept the Centruion Logos to try and convice the Admiral to sew them into the new pieces.

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I've also heard on here 100 times that old timers recipe for wood trim is the best way to go. but me realizing I dont have those ingredients, and probably dont need to go out and buy MORE stuff, lead me to using some waterproofing sealer that I have on hand. I just slapped it on, so it doesnt look super pretty, but since its going to be covered by foam and vynil anyways I didnt much care. 2 coats for good measure.
 

ACon977

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And then something that Ive been putting off for a while... The Welsch plugs (many refer to them as freeze plugs).

I had a few of them pop out before I bought the boat, likely due to poor winterization, and when I had the engine out of the boat I removed the rest and cleaned up the holes.

BUTTT upon installing them on 1 side of the engine I smashed my hand with the sledge and probably should have gotten stitches. whoops. and then promptly forgot to put in the other side. So now I seem to be at an interesting spot. What is your advice for getting these 3 guys in now that the engine is mounted...


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Not too concerned about the right one, itll be a bear but not the end of the world. The 2 that are around the motor mount will be the tricky ones. I unbolted the engine mount and tried to swing it around to get better clearance. no such luck. but I only tried for a few min before being called by the Admiral to go help her with something.
 
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I also went through when it was nice out and pulled all the Vynil off the side accent pieces. Traced them onto new wood and cut out new backer boards. The foam was still in pretty good shape so Ill likely reuse it. Also kept the Centruion Logos to try and convice the Admiral to sew them into the new pieces.



I've also heard on here 100 times that old timers recipe for wood trim is the best way to go. but me realizing I dont have those ingredients, and probably dont need to go out and buy MORE stuff, lead me to using some waterproofing sealer that I have on hand. I just slapped it on, so it doesnt look super pretty, but since its going to be covered by foam and vynil anyways I didnt much care. 2 coats for good measure.

What type of waterproofing do you use? I just finished my floor and used flex seal. Looks pretty ok just long curing time.
 

ACon977

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What type of waterproofing do you use? I just finished my floor and used flex seal. Looks pretty ok just long curing time.

Just an off the shelf deck sealer from HD.

you said you did your floor? You realize you should be glassing that, not just waterproofing....
 

ACon977

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Hmm that is going to be fun! Funny how crushing your hand will cause you to forget to do things lol!

Yea I was pretty frustrated when it happened... Wish I had remembered before attaching the engine. We moved since I had pulled the engine out and our garage is very short. My engine gantry is no longer assembled... so that could get interesting if there is no other way to do it.

Any advice? No wrong answers or recommendations.
 

ACon977

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Pull it , trust me , god won't wanna hear from you that much for trying to get to them in place

Bah, you're probably right. I just dont have the height to pull it out. and repurposed the gantry for our hammock chairs outside... Maybe I can back the boat underneath? although thatll require me to take out sections of our fence...

Could be an issue. will have to reassess when the snow melts. We went from 70 and sunny for a week to snowing and 15F for the past 2 days.
 
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Just an off the shelf deck sealer from HD.

you said you did your floor? You realize you should be glassing that, not just waterproofing....

Yea I finished the cuts yesterday. I put some liquid flex seal turns into rubber I added 2 heavy coats. I’ll get some pictures tomorrow and add to the page. Seems to work pretty good.
 

mickyryan

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Curious how that thinned epdm rubber will hold up , flex seal is great packaging, if i was to epdm a boat floor , id pay the 300 or so and get the roofing epdm rubber its thicker app but stuff will last 25 yrs lol
 

Timr71

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Hi Austin,

Here's a treat for you that I finally found. A link to the 1987 Water Ski boat buyer's guide. Details of your specific boat test on pages 47 & 48. Enjoy! And let's get this thing back on the water. If/when I'm ever back in Denver...we're going skiing! Might be snow skiing if it happens to be winter though.

-Tim

Because this is a google book archive, you're going to have to manually enter this address into a browser window. I hope this works.

http://books.google.com/books?id=8B...ge&q=1987 Water Ski boat buyers guide&f=false
 

mr300z87

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I was looking through that link, boy the boats of yesteryear were so simple looking compared to today's hi tech boats. I remember driving a friends 1979 or 1980 Ski Nautique thinking this boat is so cool, kinda like a muscle car. I am sure the new ones are even cooler.
 

ACon977

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Messages
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Hi Austin,

Here's a treat for you that I finally found. A link to the 1987 Water Ski boat buyer's guide. Details of your specific boat test on pages 47 & 48. Enjoy! And let's get this thing back on the water. If/when I'm ever back in Denver...we're going skiing! Might be snow skiing if it happens to be winter though.

-Tim

Because this is a google book archive, you're going to have to manually enter this address into a browser window. I hope this works.

http://books.google.com/books?id=8B...ge&q=1987 Water Ski boat buyers guide&f=false

Wow Tim! You are a hero! Thank you so much! Looks like I know what I'm doing instead of working today :rolleyes: just kidding, but definitely a good lunch break and read before bed!
 

ACon977

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I was looking through that link, boy the boats of yesteryear were so simple looking compared to today's hi tech boats. I remember driving a friends 1979 or 1980 Ski Nautique thinking this boat is so cool, kinda like a muscle car. I am sure the new ones are even cooler.

A muscle car indeed! I think thats one of the things that truly attracted me to the boat. Its just functional. Nothing super flashy, nothing over the top gaudy. It just looks clean and with that V8 351W im expecting it to haul ass!
 
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