1984 Starcraft 16ft Glutton for Punishment [Splashed July 2019]

[EchoNovember]

We go to Lake Bemidji State Park up north and they have 10 slips that can be used. That is the only place I would leave the boat in the water unattended long enough to worry about it sinking. Lol. We're going up there in a couple weeks for 4 days, and I am hoping to launch it when we get there and claim a slip for the weekend. ^_^

I likely won't get the transom done by then, so I am going with the redneck route of lots of globbed in sealant to seal up the gap. It will be a pain to clean out later, but oh well... At least it will keep the splashwell from draining into the bilge.

 

[SHSU]

I likely won't get the transom done by then, so I am going with the redneck route of lots of globbed in sealant to seal up the gap. It will be a pain to clean out later, but oh well... At least it will keep the splashwell from draining into the bilge.

What about some aluminum roof flashing (The roll kind)? You can get that cheap and just run a small bead of 4200 along both edges to seal that area well enough.

 

[redneck joe]

my two weeks in a slip was completely unplanned.

 

[Watermann]

Usual cause for the SW to separate from the transom is because of a rot compromised transom. That's not safe to use if so.

 

[EchoNovember]

What about some aluminum roof flashing (The roll kind)? You can get that cheap and just run a small bead of 4200 along both edges to seal that area well enough.

I really like that idea... The only thing is the bottom of the splashwell drain hole is flush with the bottom of the splashwell and the flashing would block. If we figured that part out, then I'll head to Home Depot. I had 4 hours of sleep, so I can't think today.

 

[EchoNovember]

Usual cause for the SW to separate from the transom is because of a rot compromised transom. That's not safe to use if so.

It actually looks like a combination of rot and someone replaced a 1.5" thick transom with a 0.75" thick one.

It's been holding for now, and feels mostly solid. Still want to replace it as soon as possible, though.

 

[SHSU]

my two weeks in a slip was completely unplanned.

Fair point. Murphy's law comes in at the most inopportune times

Usual cause for the SW to separate from the transom is because of a rot compromised transom. That's not safe to use if so.

I agree, but following Ech's thread and he is still trying to get some boating time in this summer before doing a rebuild over the winter.

 

[EchoNovember]

I agree, too. However, we're going to try really hard to get it replaced in the next week. I also don't want to hijack SHSU's thread.

My restoration thread is here: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...upgrades/page5

My transom thread is here: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ilding-and-hull-repair/10402090-transom-issue

 

[EchoNovember]

my two weeks in a slip was completely unplanned.

That will happen! Lol. I would love to make sure mine is sealed enough for that, which is why I am planning on using Gluvit inside and out when I do my restoration.

 

[SHSU]

I agree, too. However, we're going to try really hard to get it replaced in the next week. I also don't want to hijack SHSU's thread.

My restoration thread is here: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...upgrades/page5

My transom thread is here: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ilding-and-hull-repair/10402090-transom-issue

No problem by me!!!!! You and I often are thinking the same thing :watermelon:

 

[SHSU]

Alright, so still finishing up the riveting with the admiral, but started to look at Coat it vs Gulvit. Then I came across a post by Woodonglass referencing Fasco 9XN Steel Flex epoxy. Anyone every use this product or Gatorglide? Thinking about using it over Coat it and Gulvit plus tinting it so I don't have to paint.

What do ya'll think?

http://fascoepoxies.com/FASCO-9XN-St...g-Neutral.html

 

[EchoNovember]

Unrelated to your question, but when you do the transom epoxy, 1oz of 206 hardener and 5oz of 105 resin will be enough for each coat, barely. The screw holes took a decent amount of resin on the first coat. We took the screws out so we didn't run into them later, and filled them in with epoxy for "resin rivets".

 

[Watermann]

There's a SeaNymph thread in the resto forum here that painted the entire outer hull with the steelFlex epoxy.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-s-sea-nymph-ss160-1668?p=6755278#post6755278

 

[SHSU]

Thanks WM
Reading online it seems to have mixed reviews; however, many of them are air boats and they are referencing it chipping. I wont be running over the same areas. I am heavily leaning towards using it on the entire outside as it seems to be very durable and then just adding an extra coating of Gulvit/Coat it on the inside. Was hoping some other users had experience with it and could tell me how it has held up over the years.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah finding a member that used it and is still active might be a problem, seems many guys never come back around to offer that info.

 

[SHSU]

Yeah finding a member that used it and is still active might be a problem, seems many guys never come back around to offer that info.

Well hopefully someone with first hand knowledge can chime in, or suggest another product that would do similar.

As always thanks WM

 

[Watermann]

It wasn't that long ago that he was on his thread again and it's been a couple years since he applied the steelflex, post in his thread so others can see and if all else fails try to send him a PM about it.

 

[EchoNovember]

I'm curious to know, too. Also going to have to figure out how we're going to remove paint in the winter...

 

[Watermann]

Depends on where you live, guys in Florida don't have an issue with it. :lol:

 

[SHSU]

I'm curious to know, too. Also going to have to figure out how we're going to remove paint in the winter...

Down south you will be fine, up north, you will need a heater