1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

[ctriverfish]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

# 1 If you can get to the inside grind off the expanded end of the rivet and use a punch to push the rivet head out. If you cant them move to #2
#2 Center punch rivets head as close to the center as you can then drill. Small drill first then a drill the same size as the shank of the rivet.
Good luck.

 

[ctriverfish]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

I would spend some time pulling rug on the deck first to see if there might be a better way to pull that deck first. The big rivets look like buck rivets and there has to be a way to get to the back them. In my book I would think the deck went on after the buck rivets where put in.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

I know you don't want to tear up the carpet, Buckeye. But sometimes there is just no other way. Carpet and deck wood out of the way and I think you're going to see more than one screw holding you back.

 

[MassillonBuckeye]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

I know you don't want to tear up the carpet, Buckeye. But sometimes there is just no other way. Carpet and deck wood out of the way and I think you're going to see more than one screw holding you back.

Not sure where it could be though. I can see everything that is connected to the transom. I really think the only thing holding it in right now is the silicone on the ends. I'm gonna give it a good go before I result to tearing everything off.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

Give her a go, but I believe that you are going to end up taking the deck up anyways.

There is absolutely positively no way that you are going to grind those rivets out without tearing up your hull.

Center punch then drill them.

If you don't want to mess with the metal structure rip the carpet up, set a circular saw to depth cut huge access panels then rip the plywood up that way.

I've pulled two Starcraft original transoms neither of them had any type of silicone or sealant on them anywhere. If it is just sealant hook it up and pull but I would be willing to bet if you are using ratcheting straps they will pull it right out.

I accidentlly left a screw in the transom on the 16' and she still came out.

 

[MassillonBuckeye]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

Whelp boys, shes out! Even though I ground off the head of that screw that was hiding and drilled the hole, it was still catching. I just applied enough force for it to rip through the wet wood. That side was wet I'm guessing from those three bolts on the end. Talking starboard side. So yay! I don't have to rip the whole thing apart. The rest of the boat is solid, and I'm pretty happy with the layout back there so I wasn't wanting to make any changes in that respect so I'm happy. I did get a new storage space in the process as well. I'm thinking I want to make it a true dry storage since pretty much everywhere else gets water as there aren't any seals.

Check out these bolts that were holding the motor on! No wonder I couldn't get anything to grip em! And loctite to boot! I had to grind off the heads and push them through. Someone really didn't want their motor stolen.. I'm thinking about making a tool and reinstalling them.

More pics of transom.

Water intrusion on the starboard side, port side was nice and dry. You can also see where the "hidden" screw pulled through the bottom:

Grimey:

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

So how corroded is the inner transom skin?

 

[cj8mule]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

Success! and a new storage hatch to boot.

 

[MassillonBuckeye]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

So how corroded is the inner transom skin?

Not at all really. I'll double check tomorrow but looked pretty darn clean.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

Time for a couple of wobbly pops. How did you finally yank it - Screw eyes and brute force?

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

Nice job getting out the transom. I recommend making the new/replacement one, in one piece rather than three, it makes it stronger and less surfaces to possibly allow moisture in.

 

[MassillonBuckeye]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

Time for a couple of wobbly pops. How did you finally yank it - Screw eyes and brute force?

Yep. Screw eyes, one side at a time. I dug out the starboard end a bit checking for sealant of som sort, but then reinforced the chain hoist and wrenched on it a bit. Nothin crazy, I wa surprised and very happy I didn't have to rip everything out. I think I know why we don't see too many of these get restored... I live the layout and features though! Ever seen the retractable tie up lines? There's one in the bow and stern. Really handy. Another project will be extending the rod locker. More on that soon!

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1983 Starcraft PM160 how to?

I haven't seen the retracts. Got time for another pic?

 

[MassillonBuckeye]

Update: Transom done. sandwiched 2 3/4 ply, tite bond III, nailed it together then epoxied the whole thing. A couple coats of paint, some 3M 5200 to seal everything up and shes good as new! Maybe even better! But guess what?! Shes sprung a leak! Its actually leaked a bit ever since I got it. Well it got worse over the past couple trips so I decided to remove the deck.. There are a few rivets missing from the middle part of the hull. Check out the video.. Was leaking pretty bad.. Plan was to clean it real good(Dawn dish soap?) then do Gluvit or Marine Tex? Should I replace/buck the bad rivets first since I have access to both sides? I'll need to find a helper unless anyone has some tips on a 1 man bucking operation?

 

[classiccat]

I'd remove those bad rivets and replace with new 3/16" Brazier heads. Was there trauma (Impact, bad trailer setup, etc.?) to the area where the rivets went south?

 

[MassillonBuckeye]

I'd remove those bad rivets and replace with new 3/16" Brazier heads. Was there trauma (Impact, bad trailer setup, etc.?) to the area where the rivets went south?

I don't think there was much trauma to that area but not sure. A couple things I've found were 1. a weld in the seam on the starboard side. The weld is done really well, fills the seam well and evenly. Looks like a professional job. 2. The "stringers" or floor supports have rivets popped as well in the middle of the boat. Doesn't look like it took an impact from the outside though. I didn't notice the weld until I felt under that extrusion. Its about a foot or so long.
Also the previous owner, when re-doing the floor, tried to remove the rod locker by drilling some rivets out and didn't repair properly. Also didn't reinstall the helm/livewell correctly either so it was lacking support overall. I'm going to re-rivet the floor supports, re-rivet the hull, reinstall the rod locker and helm correctly AND gloveit for good measure. Should be good for another 20+ years I'd figure. I'll post more pics tonight.

 

[Watermann]

Tried to post last night when the server puked. Sounds a you have a good plan for the repairs. :thumb:

I would add some 5200 to any of the through the hull rivets as insurance. Yeah replacing all of the floor support blind rivets is a good idea, they're always loose.

 

[MNhunter1]

...Yeah replacing all of the floor support blind rivets is a good idea, they're always loose.

I've been considering this too. Question of the day... How do you get all those punched rivets out from under the ribs. I know I still have a few floating (well, hopefully not literally floating) around the hull from the floor removal. I picture them all eventually clogging up my seap/weep/drain holes under the ribs. I'm sure a pressure washer and shop vac will quickly solve the problem... my wife always tells me a worry too much :lol:

 

[Watermann]

I've used a combination of things to get the blind rivet bucktails out. Rubber mallet to bang on ribs, shop vac and hacksaw blade to slide in the limber hole to poke them loose.

 

[classiccat]

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compressed air through 1 end of the rib will launch those pop-rivet tails out of the other end like no one's business! wear goggles.

flipping the boat empties-out the rib's "bounty" as well