1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

[Decker83]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Well I have been making a little more progress. I have all the stringers out and have ground down the complete hull inside. (and I thought the foam was hard to remove) LOL
I am now at the point I need to get the poly resin, matt and 1708.
QUESTION???? Does anyone know where to get this in the Dallas Ft. Worth area. I know about US Composites and if I can't find it local I will order from them. I just hate spending the money for shipping cost. I can use that money for other parts for the boat.
Thanks Guys

Kent

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Well it is Friday evening and the temp's at 107 degrees now. Didn't feel like working in the heat today.
Have some pic's of the hull.

I took guite a bit of fiberglass out of the hull while I was grinding. I think I removed over 2/3rds of the woven roven.
Have a BIG QUESTION. Should I layup some new csm 1.5 matt and another layup of 1708 for the full length of the hull before I put in the new stringers.
I really feel like I may have removed to much material while I was grinding. Not to worried about the extra weight. May not be any after all I ground out.
Just want to make it right and safe. Also need to know if I should put some csm and 1708 on the inside of transom. I took even more off of it.

Let me know what you guys think about it.

Some pic's of the main stringers.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Really nice job on the grinding!!! If you plan on keeping her for a LONG time then a layer of CSM and 1708 would NOT be a bad idea. That's a lot of resin and glass. I'd guess 10 gals mininimum so it would be a bit pricey. Do you have any idea what your current thickness is as she sits???

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Really nice job on the grinding!!! If you plan on keeping her for a LONG time then a layer of CSM and 1708 would NOT be a bad idea. That's a lot of resin and glass. I'd guess 10 gals mininimum so it would be a bit pricey. Do you have any idea what your current thickness is as she sits???

In some places it is to the gelcoat. In most areas it's about 1/16" to 1/8".
I would feel better if I did the whole hull. I figure I'll wind up using about 30 gallons of resin and 100 yrds of csm and 35 to 45 yrds of 1708 total on this project. Maybe more of the resin when I think about it.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Decker, I've just started my first boat and you are ahead of me a bit. Between work and family, I am a weekend guy on my build. I'm sure you will have yours done long before mine. BUT, I will follow your thread all the way man. It will help me a whole lot along the way. I prolly won't post anything but pictures LOL! The cradle was impressive. Also, all that foam you had to dig out, made me thankful I'm doing the boat I have. I wish you alot of luck on your build. Ofcourse you know the guys on Iboats, (the true help unlike myself) give WONDERFUL info. Great stuff and I hope you get on the water safe soon and smoothly. Bug

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Thanks Bug,
I appreciate your comments. I'm not real fast at this, but I just keep pluging away. The heat here is really bad and it slows me down to working maybe 1 1/2hours a day thur the week and early morning and late afternoons on weekends. I'm finally at the stage I can start to put things back together. Feels good!!!

Hope you do the same with your project. Looks good!!!

Kent

 

[SouthTexan]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Wow, that is some great work! I feel your pain with the heat, not quite so hot here in San Antonio though. I was also kinda worried about grinding out too much material from my hull, but I figure it will all be replaced by the time the stringers are tabbed. Keep up the good work, getting closer to splashdown!

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Thanks SouthTexan,

It was 106 degrees today. Went to HD and bought some plywood and lumber for the transom and stringers. Need to setup my radial arm saw and worked on it today in the garage.
I think I am going to put a layer of 1.5 oz csm and 1708 down the length of the hull. I don't want the hull to be to thin under the stringers. If this is overkill then ok.
Better to much than not enough.
And I have not received information from anyone saying I should not do this.
Kent

 

[SouthTexan]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

I agree, might as well strengthen the hull. I would do this as well but I think the cost factor might be too high for me personally.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

You said there are places where you're down to the gelcoat? EEK! you certainly need to "beef up" those places.

Now keep in mind, when you're installing news stringers complete (like you're doing), the tabbing alone is going to add several layers to a good portion of the hull. If your stringer tabbing is going to be around some of the thin spots then you can just build it up as you're tabbing in the stringers, just be sure to beef up under the stringers first.

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

I agree, might as well strengthen the hull. I would do this as well but I think the cost factor might be too high for me personally.

My hull is almost flat except for the bow. It's worth it to me to add more glass.

You said there are places where you're down to the gelcoat? EEK! you certainly need to "beef up" those places.

Cadwelder, I really took alot of the woven roven out. While I was grinding I just keep finding white spots in it and I ground them all out. I also cut a small hole in the hull while I was taking out 1 of the stringers. I will add several layers of csm and 1708 there.
Thanks for your help.

 

[SouthTexan]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

In some places it is to the gelcoat. In most areas it's about 1/16" to 1/8".
I would feel better if I did the whole hull. I figure I'll wind up using about 30 gallons of resin and 100 yrds of csm and 35 to 45 yrds of 1708 total on this project. Maybe more of the resin when I think about it.

I was wondering about this grinding to the gelcoat statement.... Are you saying that the hull thickness is 1/16" to 1/8" in most places? Holy moly that's a lot of grinding! How would one tell the difference between the hull material and the gelcoat? I was worried about grinding too much off my hull as well, the I think with the advice I obtained from these forums I got it figured out ok.

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

SouthTexan,
The woven roven was used very heavy in the hull. It was laid over the csm all at one time to make a single layup. The woven roven has to be laid up this way to make it work. As I said before when I was grinding it out a lot of white looking glass would show thur in the woven roven. When I ground thur the woven roven I could tell the glass was getting alittle clear and then if I keep going it would turn white. This white was the gel coat. So in the thin spots I can see the gel coat thur what is left of the csm. I have done one other boat that was much smaller and the glass had delaminated and it looked alot like the glass in this boat. I would rather ground it down and add more back to be save and not have to worry about it.
Yea it took a lot of grinding, but with the 7" disk at 24 grit it didn't take to long. I just have alot of hull.

 

[SouthTexan]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Oh, I see. You are doing a bang up job and can't wait to the see the "re" in your rebuild in the near future!

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Decker .... that craddle is awesome. I think I need to build one for my hull.
Wow, you sure had a lot of grinding to do. Looks good so far.

 

[heathboater]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Any response on resin and glass suppliers in DFW area or have you ordered from US Composites. I am pulling foam from 21ft center console and will need glass and resin soon and would rather buy locally if price is competitive.

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

I have purchased 10 gallons of poly resin and a roll of 1.5oz csm and a roll of 1708 baix. Also the other goodies to make the PB. I just have to say this old man did not like the ideal of haveing to hold up that five gallon bucket and try to measure out how much resin I was pouring and still hit the pail I was pouring it into. Now I am just getting lazy. I built a box from 2x4's and made a stand from 2x6's and now all I have to do is tip the bucket of resin. I also had to rigg up something to hold the rolls of glass. By the way 1708 is really heavy. Anyway I used some 2x4's and screwed them to the overhang on my shed. I have some old drill stem pipe left over from my fence project and I use them to hold the rolls. I put a tarp up over the rolls to protect them. Hope it will be ok to store this glass outside like this.

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Went to HD and bought a sheet of AraucoPly. My transom is 20" tall by 94 3/4" wide. I was able to get the 2 pieces I needed out of 1 4'x8'x3/4" sheet. This plywood has 7 layers to it. I didn't find any voids when cutting the piece's. When I made my pattern for the transom I used a large sheet of cardboard that was 1/4" thick.
I made sure the cardboard was equal to half the width of the transom. I measured the height at the center of the transom and then at the port side. This gave me the angle I needed for the transom bottom. I kept the top of my pattern even with the transom and used a fat marking pen to trace the sides of the hull. I did have to do this a few times to get it right. Once the pattern was a good fit, I took off a 1/4" all around to allow for the new glass I would put on. I then transfered the pattern to the wood. I cut the angle on the bottom of the wood to match the angle that the transom leans back. I did this for the top of the transom also. I put the 2 pieces of wood together and matched up the edges and put a couple of screws to hold them in place. I used a belt sander on all the edges and made them smooth and also I rounded over the outside corners. I put a 1/4" radius on them. After the sanding I did a dry test in the boat. It fit the first time in. So I made some braces to hold the transom straight across the top and the bottom. I used the drain holes and the motor mount holes and put some 3 1/2" bolts to hold the braces in place. The brace was made from drop off of the AraucoPly and some 3/4" plywood I had. I used the factory edge to put against the flat side of the second piece to make a T shape. I screwed the 2 pieces together. I did this for top and bottom of the transom. Once I had everthing in place and bolted and clamped in the dry test, I took it apart and laid out all my clamps and bolts in the boat. I then laid out my 2 pieces of wood with 2 ajointing sides face up. I wet out the wood with resin and let it set. Once the resin set I put my 1.5 oz csm in place and wet it out. I then carefully put 1 piece on top of the other. I used the same brace to clamp the transom together to hold it flat. Worked very well.
I also put a layer of 1.5oz csm and a layer of 1708 on the transom skin and bottom of the hull to reinforce it before I put the transom wood back in.
After the resin had set over night I removed the clamps and cleaned the edges up I did another dry run. It all went well. So I took it all lose and coated the side of the transom wood and the edges with resin. I let that resin set and cut the csm to size and wet it out over the 1 side and all of the edges. After it setup I cleaned it up and laid it in the boat. I cleaned everthing with acetone and made sure everthing was in place. I mixed up my PB and spread it on with a 1/4" trowel on both the wood and the hull. I put my shims under the bottom of the wood and lifted it into place. I used the center hole on the drain to bolt tlhru first and the went from there. Had plenty of PB come out of the edges. I then went and mixed up some more PB and fileted it all in.
One thing I did find was, when mixing the PB I used a small mixing wire that looked like a cork screw. That was a mistake. It seamed to catch the 1/4 chop strand and bunch it all up on the wire. I had to add more CS to the mix and do it by hand. Doing it by hand worked but alot of mixing.
The last pic I had alread sanded the transom. That's why it looks that way.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Well done. Looks real strong to me!

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: 1983 Deck Boat Transom/deck/stringer replacement Help

Well done!. Love the rig you made for the resin.