1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

[ShowMeGuy]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Thats a big 'ol tank there man.....

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I think it would have looked a lot better if would have been Baby Blue!!!

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Thats a big 'ol tank there man.....

Ain't it? $450-of-gas-big, at filling station prices, or $550 at a marina. Yow!

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

double post

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I think it would have looked a lot better if would have been Baby Blue!!!

That would be the right color for "Health Hazards or Toxins". My boat will be a Vessel Of Peace. I will have no requirement for chemical weapons on board...

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

That there fuel cell looks right purdy, pardner!

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

The top side of the tank got a coat of paint today.

Still puzzling over the best way to fab the bottom of the fuel tank 'coffin' -- 2x2 stringer-ettes with a layer of thin plywood over it (albeit without a buttload of chopper strand under and over it like original), or 3/4 ply glued to the hull under the whole tank. I'm not sure of the value of those little stringers as opposed to a continuous section of uninterrupted ply.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Tank looks beautiful! I vote for painting the word FLAMMABLE in big yellow block letters on it.

As for the coffin bottom, you may want to conside providing a keel drainway under it if you can so maybe the glassed in 2x2's and thin plywood would be best... but I don't know your master plan/desin for your below deck so I might be way off base.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I vote for painting the word FLAMMABLE in big yellow block letters on it.

ound:That right there is Funeeeee!

:focus:

Whatever you decide for the 'coffin'...make sure to keep in mind some way to separate the tank from sitting directly on any wood...

from this website...http://www.sptanks.com/webdev/uscgGuide.http...

which is excerpted from the USCG info...


FUEL TANK ISOLATION MATERIALS

SUITABLE	UNSUITABLE
Neoprene	Foams
Teflon	Carpeting
High Density Plastics	Cardboard
	Felt
	Wood
	Canvas

NOTE: This list is not limited to the material to be included. They are to establish the intent of the regulatory requirements prohibiting moisture absorbing materials.
Coast Guard, DOT
Manufacturer Requirements
?183.550 Fuel tanks: Installation
(a) Each fuel tank must not be integral with any boat structure or mounted on an engine.
(b) Each fuel tank must not move at the mounting surface more than one-fourth inch in any direction.
(c) Each fuel tank must not support a deck, bulkhead, or other structural component.
(d) Water must drain from the top surface of each metallic fuel tank when the boat is in its static floating position.
(e) Each fuel tank support, check, or strap that is not integral with a metallic fuel tank must be insulated from the tank surface by a nonmoisture absorbing material.
(f) Cellular plastic must not be the sole support for a metallic fuel tank.
(g) If cellular plastic is the sole support of a non-metallic fuel tank, the cellular plastic must meet the requirements of ?183.516 (b) or (c).
(h) Each fuel tank labled under ?183.514 (b)(8) for installation aft of the boat?s half length must be installed with its center of gravity aft of the boat?s half length.
[CGD 74-209, 42 FR 5950, Jan. 31, 1977, as amended by CGD 81-092, 48 FR 55737, Dec. 15, 1983]

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Tank looks beautiful! I vote for painting the word FLAMMABLE in big yellow block letters on it.

LOL

As for the coffin bottom, you may want to conside providing a keel drainway under it if you can so maybe the glassed in 2x2's and thin plywood would be best... but I don't know your master plan/desin for your below deck so I might be way off base.

Both ideas (and the original) have a channel along the keel. The isolator strips under and around the tank would allow space for condensation to flow to the channel and into the bilge.



Maybe I'll do a combination. ply directly glued to the hull between the stringers, and a final layer glued over top to make a smooth bottom.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Whatever you decide for the 'coffin'...make sure to keep in mind some way to separate the tank from sitting directly on any wood...

Absolutely. It originally had strips of some sort of synthetic rubber-like material about a half inch wide each, and 1/8" thick. I've seen the threads here and on other boards about using Starboard or nylon, and I saw that Frisco Jay used doormats cut into strips. I had been thinking of closed-cell polyethylene foam because of its chemical resistance and durability.

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

GWPSR can you give me the dimensions and the materials I'll need of you gantry I need to build one my self Thanks

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

My uprights were 12' long 2x8. All of the smaller bracing was 2x4. The crossbeam was also a 2"x8"x10', and while it held up fine, in retrospect I think doubling it would have been better.

When I put an engine back into the boat, that's what I'll do, as well as turn the legs 90 degrees so they are flat against the crossbeam rather than perpendicular. It'll make the bracing stronger and cut down the flex. I'd have been bummed if anything had snapped while that engine was 8' in the air and dropped straight through the bottom of the hull.

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Thanks GWPSR yeah the boat is so tall I will head your advice so I need 4- 12' 2x8, 2- 10' 2x8 and 2x4 bracing. Did you use nails or screws to put it together?

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Thanks GWPSR yeah the boat is so tall I will head your advice so I need 4- 12' 2x8, 2- 10' 2x8 and 2x4 bracing. Did you use nails or screws to put it together?

3" deck screws in most places, and carriage bolts for the winch. In some other threads, guys have built theirs with all bolts, and a few with angle brackets as well.

And then there are those who used a good, stout tree in their yard. If I could have, I would have.

 

[T748]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

The tree method worked out great getting the short-block out. Going back in, I'll be stealing your A frame plans. -Tom.

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

And then there are those who used a good, stout tree in their yard. If I could have, I would have

You know I have some very large maples in my yard I just might take a look tonight for a candidate! You guys are great!

 

[T748]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

The tree limb doesn't have to be that big either. Just try putting a bit of weight on it first to test. I used a 25' chain fall and heavy duty strap from harbor freight. -Tom.

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Hey GWPSR

went to harbor freight and picked up a respirator and coveralls so I can look like you in your avatar. Wanted to know the best grinding disks for removing tabbing and cleaning the fiberglass

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Hey GWPSR

went to harbor freight and picked up a respirator and coveralls so I can look like you in your avatar. Wanted to know the best grinding disks for removing tabbing and cleaning the fiberglass

I used the flap disks in the biggest grit I could find (24 or 36) for grinding, though WoG and a few others prefer the rubber backing disk for the grinder and flat sandpaper disks. I use my grinder for metalwork too, and the flap wheels were what I was used to using.

For cutting tabbing, plain old cutoff wheels work great. I've bought both the standard ones from the big box stores, as well as the cheapo 10-pack from Harbor Freight. The cheap ones are a tad less durable, but they are cheap. Don't run a cutoff disk without the guard. Sometimes they'll throw a piece off if you're careless or if they just get too weak.