1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

PB'ed the two mini-bulkheads/buttresses in last night during the grilling/working time. Had enough PB to fillet one of them at the same time, but will need to mix up a small batch to do the other one tonight. I hope to get them glassed in over the weekend, and maybe cut the first two or four pieces of sole.

Had to run out to West Marine for another 20 oz container of milled fiber (403). That makes 5 total to this point, and I'm just getting to the bottom of my second batch of resin. The first was 5 Gal of 4:1 (fast), and the second was 5 gal of 3:1 (medium). I've also used 2/3 of the 5 quarts of System3 chopped fiber (I will never order this crap again - not only does it not mix well, it's an instant itch storm), and 4 quarts of fine sawdust that I milled into wood flour. I will be saving all clean sawdust from now on! It works well, is easy to mill with a blender or food processor, and at $free, it beats the crap out of commercial products. Since I'm using epoxy, I'm not worried about using wood flour.

I need to make another 5 gallon USC order, and also buy a roll of lighter cloth for the sole, but I may have to hold off for a bit while the money well builds up a little pressure.

 

[zool]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

The epoxy does soak up the 403, even making glue.....Hopefully I have enough on hand to bolt in that sled mine .

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Neoprene from Seattle Fabrics arrived yesterday via USPS. Nicely packaged, rolled in kraft paper and inside a long plastic bag.

Placed my third USComposites order last night - 5 gallon 3:1 epoxy kit.

It looks like 6 oz fabric is what I will be aiming at to cover the sole. For some reason it's way less expensive than either 4 oz or 8 oz of the same width. (about $4 and change depending on amount ordered)

 

[Trooper82]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I do!

gwpjr sat in the bilge last night while I was grilling, and contemplated the journey so far, and said "I'm really pleased at where this has gone so far.", and that there were stages during the demo when he'd thought maybe we were just nuts for pursuing it. We may still be, but we're plowing ahead anyway

I could be doing something useful like painting my house, or gardening, or organizing my receipts for the taxman, but I've got no time for that! I've got a boat to build!

I think we all go through this phase...got to keep on chugging...looking great and what a feeling once you get her done and knowing you did it... cruising the lake will be that much sweeter!

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Bought two more sheets of 3/4" BC plywood and began to measure and cut the sole. These two pieces are nominally 20" x 48".

First fitting to scribe the radius in the corner for the transom fillet:

Then, after rounding over the edge closest to bilge, one final fitting:

Then it was time to coat them in epoxy. One thinned coat on the bottom and edges, then two coats on all sides:

While the thinned coat was soaking in and kicking, I cut biax cloth to cover the two small bulkheads, and while the final coats were curing, I glassed in the bulkheads. (no pics)

The next two will be 20" x 8' ending at the bulkhead ahead of the tank.

It's been good to be able to work on the boat this weekend. My father is in the hospital and it looks like we're going to be spending the next several days arranging a move for him from independent living to an assisted-living situation (minimally...). Good to have something to work out frustrations on

 

[zool]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Looks good, those shelves as i call them are handy for accesories in the engine compartment. Plus, your "bilge sole", or "hull plate" looks like a better design for drainage than on mine.

Progress is good

 

[jbillingsley]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Hey GWPSR, don't know if you already solved your painting thing, but I tossed in a 4oz. jar of white pigment with my last US Composites order. I'm absolutely thrilled that I did. It comes out looking beautiful, very much like gelcoat.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Hey GWPSR, don't know if you already solved your painting thing, but I tossed in a 4oz. jar of white pigment with my last US Composites order. I'm absolutely thrilled that I did. It comes out looking beautiful, very much like gelcoat.

Poly or epoxy? If epoxy, does the pigment add UV resistance?

 

[ShowMeGuy]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Bought two more sheets of 3/4" BC plywood and began to measure and cut the sole. These two pieces are nominally 20" x 48".

Then, after rounding over the edge closest to bilge, one final fitting:

Does that area under that new plywood get filled with foam or floatation sheets?

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Does that area under that new plywood get filled with foam or floatation sheets?

Good timing with that question! I was just about to pose a question to the group in that regard.

When I add up the cubic feet of foam I will need/use, it's about $1,000 worth of 2-part foam. I'd like to get by with far less, so I've been noodling around some options, and was curious whether anyone here had tried any of them (or read a thread mentioning the techniques)

I could add a number of poly jugs (full of air and sealed) to the cavities and then add foam to surround them and fill the difference. The jugs ought to provide roughly the same buoyancy (or maybe more) than 2-lb foam, being mostly air. US Composites has supplied me with a tidy pile of empty jugs so far that they fill with resin for shipping

The other option was to glue as many layers of blue or pink foam to the back side of the decking and when I pour foam it would fill in a minimized area between the foam sheet and hull for rigidity purposes.

I think poured foam is more critical for me in the bow areas as that's where I'd be most worried about flex, oil-canning or puncture from a deadhead or rock. I could probably get away with sheet foam in all the aft cavities.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Absolutely no problem in doing that. Others have done it before. Punctures would be the only issue. Buoyancy would be similar. 2 liter jugs with caps glued on have been used as well. Some people fill em with the canned foam first. As the old saying goes... "What ever floats your boat!"


It's your boat...Do as you see fit!!!

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Looking Great GWPSR!!!!!!! I'm going to show my wife your progress today I tried to explain it but seeing is believing

 

[Jayboat66]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I just finished the foam on half of my project. I did with 2lb. foam from US composites, I used one kit ( a gallon kit) less than $90.00 with shipping.

Remember, less air between layers of foam, less water from condensation. Always fiberglass on both sides of the deck

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Let me jump in here and give my nickle-95's worth on foaming...

According to the USCG regs, only boats that measure less than 20 feet are required to have one of three types of floatation, and that requirement is only mandated for the manufacturers of boats...
Here is a link...Flotation - Applicability

Another point I have realized from reading the "Foam Regs" is the WHY? of it...

Basically because small boats are way more susceptible to Swamping or hull breach from impacts such as just under the surface objects...

Even though these can occur to larger vessels, Think, Titanic...it is not as common...read on...

Now, let me put this out there before my head gets bitten off...

I personally believe in flotation foam in any boat, but there are diminishing returns when you start to get into boats that are larger than 20 feet...
The amount of dead weight that the foam would have to compensate for...

Generally, the 2 Lb. foam from US Composites, when perfectly expanded, can support about 60 or so, lbs. in the water...honestly, I don't know if that is in salt or fresh water but there is a percentage difference...

An 80 Lb. Kit from U.S.C., ideally will support 2400 Lbs. and will require 40 Cubic Feet of empty, unused space in your boat...

GW, from the sound of it, your boat must weigh in the neighborhood of 6000-8000 Lbs...

That would be the equivalent of 3-4, 80 Lb. Kits and require approximately 120-160 cubic feet of unused space some where in the hull...

Do you have or could you give up that much space in your boat...?

Also, even though plastic jugs, pool noodles, and other items may be used...do they afford the same amount of floatation per cubic foot? I personally have not seen the science...

Larger vessels generally resort to other methods of adding floatation, like air tight chambers, also using puncture resistant liners in those chambers, bigger bilge pump systems, and added safety devices like inflatable rafts and self deploying floatation devices/PFD's...

And here is a pretty good discussion on foam from the folks at Glen-L...
Flotation in boat hulls

Sorry guys, just had to throw this out there to see what develops...:facepalm:
Happy Monday!

 

[Teamster]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I almost went to a "foam party" Saturday night,...................

 

[Jayboat66]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

GWPSR, read some ideas I have in my bayliner project. I like this thread!!!

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Let me jump in here and give my nickle-95's worth on foaming...

According to the USCG regs, only boats that measure less than 20 feet are required to have one of three types of floatation, and that requirement is only mandated for the manufacturers of boats...
Here is a link...Flotation - Applicability

Another point I have realized from reading the "Foam Regs" is the WHY? of it...

Basically because small boats are way more susceptible to Swamping or hull breach from impacts such as just under the surface objects...

Even though these can occur to larger vessels, Think, Titanic...it is not as common...read on...

Now, let me put this out there before my head gets bitten off...

I personally believe in flotation foam in any boat, but there are diminishing returns when you start to get into boats that are larger than 20 feet...
The amount of dead weight that the foam would have to compensate for...

Generally, the 2 Lb. foam from US Composites, when perfectly expanded, can support about 60 or so, lbs. in the water...honestly, I don't know if that is in salt or fresh water but there is a percentage difference...

An 80 Lb. Kit from U.S.C., ideally will support 2400 Lbs. and will require 40 Cubic Feet of empty, unused space in your boat...

GW, from the sound of it, your boat must weigh in the neighborhood of 6000-8000 Lbs...

That would be the equivalent of 3-4, 80 Lb. Kits and require approximately 120-160 cubic feet of unused space some where in the hull...

Do you have or could you give up that much space in your boat...?

Also, even though plastic jugs, pool noodles, and other items may be used...do they afford the same amount of floatation per cubic foot? I personally have not seen the science...

Larger vessels generally resort to other methods of adding floatation, like air tight chambers, also using puncture resistant liners in those chambers, bigger bilge pump systems, and added safety devices like inflatable rafts and self deploying floatation devices/PFD's...

And here is a pretty good discussion on foam from the folks at Glen-L...
Flotation in boat hulls

Sorry guys, just had to throw this out there to see what develops...:facepalm:
Happy Monday!

The two long stringer cavities along either side of the fuel tank equal 14 cu ft. of volume. 2 lb foam in that space equals only 850 lbs of buoyancy. Hmmm ... maybe this is a failed proposition after all ...

The boat's weight as manufactured was 5,440 lbs. I would need 91 cu ft of floatation (@ 60 lbs/cu ft) to to be neutral. If I go for 6,000 pounds of buoyancy, I'll need about three 80 lb kits. $792 worth of foam kits (+$200 shipping). I was originally looking at 3 lb foam, which would be $1,056 (+256 shipping)

So ... I'm considering alternatives. I absolutely want this boat to stay visible just on the surface minimally if I'm out in the middle of the big lake. I've heard the song about the Edmond Fitzgerald. I don't want my boat on the bottom, especially with me in it.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Since you mentioned that you are looking for alternatives, I started thinking what it would take if you used the foam insulation boards...

I just bought 1/2"x4'x8' Foam insulation boards at Lowes for almost 13.00 per sheet + tax...

Two of those sheets would give you approximately 2.66 cubic feet of foam.

For 100 cu.ft. you would need 76 sheets of 1/2" which would cost about 1000.00.

Maybe, if you can find 1" thick boards at less than double the price of two 1/2" boards, you could realize a significant savings...?

This is assuming that the foam insulation sheets provide the same approximate floatation per cubic foot as the expanding foam...

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

There are several sources for reclaimed sheets of foam locally,some of it 2" thick. Most of these guys sell it for $8-10 per sheet. I'm guessing they are tear-offs from commercial building reroofs.

I'll have to do some figurin' and calculatin'.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

There are several sources for reclaimed sheets of foam locally,some of it 2" thick. Most of these guys sell it for $8-10 per sheet. I'm guessing they are tear-offs from commercial building reroofs.

I'll have to do some figurin' and calculatin'.

That would be a very significant score...you could add all the floatation you want for under 500 bucks...very cool...please, let us know how that pans out...op2: