1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I like your Idea!!! your fillet job looks great.

Thanks Jay. Your glassing work on your stringers is top notch as well.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Aaarrrgghh! The forum response is so slow lately that double posts seem to be getting worse and worse.

 

[gwpjr]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

The larger fillets definitely make a difference when it come to laying down the glass. Even with the 17oz fabric that we are using it all goes pretty smoothly. Even so, tabbing these little stringers in is very time consuming. It took me about 30 minutes to lay glass on the one in the picture. For anyone that is following along and taking notes: 17oz biax doesn't seem to soak up the resin (with fast hardener) readily when it has been in the pot for more than a few minutes. You really have to work it to get proper saturation. Working multiple adjacent surfaces doesn't make it any easier, especially when the tops and inner sides of the stringers are at angles that gravity works against. Most of my time was spent moving the resin back to the areas that hadn't soaked through. Fortunately SR ordered medium hardener and thin resin this batch, so the workable time should increase a bit. I'm also going to try wetting out with a healthy coat of resin prior to laying down the next pieces and see if that helps.

 

[4Winns2]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Very nice work. Subscribed.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Very nice work. Subscribed.

Thanks! Welcome to the party Bill!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

R U using a bubble roller? You might use wax paper on a sheet of plywood and try wetting out the strips on the wax paper outside the boat first then carry them to the boat for installation. Epoxy, due to it's slow tack time can be a PITA to wet out and get the resin to stay where you need it. Lot's of "Baby Sitting" is required.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

R U using a bubble roller? You might use wax paper on a sheet of plywood and try wetting out the strips on the wax paper outside the boat first then carry them to the boat for installation. Epoxy, due to it's slow tack time can be a PITA to wet out and get the resin to stay where you need it. Lot's of "Baby Sitting" is required.

For this biax cloth, you can't move it once wet as it distorts easily. That's a benefit when smoothing around irregular surfaces like corners, but you can't transfer wet cloth from paper to hull and keep it uniform.

Jr and I have slightly different techniques. He uses a plastic squeegee and pours the resin onto the surface, then moves it where needed. I use foam rollers and a tray full of resin, and roll it on/in as I go. That smoothes wrinkles and flattens most bubbles.

He would have used his bubble buster on the work above, but we discovered right before working that the nylon roller has become fouled on the shaft. It turns, but not easily enough to use on a wet cloth. I need to get one of the small diameter metal ones so I can flame it if necessary.

I prefer the foam roller for application on vertical surfaces. For horizontal, either is fine. The squeegee gets it out of the pot and onto the surface fast, and you can finesse at leisure after that.

 

[gwpjr]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

The only problem I have with SR's approach is the resin waste from the cover absorbing some. Like he said, I would have been using the bubble roller if not for the fact that I didn't clean it the last time I used it on my Comet mini-restore. I second what he says about moving biax once it is saturated.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Since that last post, we've finished all the tabbing on stringers.

Today's sneak-some-boat-work-in-while-barbequing-ribs task was precutting bigger pieces of cloth for encapsulating the stringers.

Each section was labeled with the length (all are 50"wide), so I know where each one belongs. 24" to go up and over the big main stringers, and 34" to cover between the keel and those stringers, up and over the 2x2 stringers under the tank.

All safely boxed up and waiting for some sub-90 degree days.

The ribs were delicious.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Today it was below 90! Closer to 80 in fact. So, some laminating got done.

Draped cloth over the big stringers,

and then wet it all out. 20 oz of resin (15 resin and 5 hardener) per 24" x 50" piece seemed to be the right amount.

Since I use a foam roller, the method that seems to work best for me is to wet out the top of the stringer first, then begin to wet out the sides, rolling diagonally with the biax. It wets and pushes bubbles at the same time. They seem to move more easily diagonally, and the distortion of the cloth is reduced. I follow up with the bubble buster if needed.

When the pot is empty, I dry the roller by squeezing out as much resin as possible on the next area, so that it will tack up a bit while I mix the next pot, and it makes the next piece of cloth stick in place nicely.

Supposed to be in the mid 70's tomorrow, so I expect I'll be back out there again.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Lookin' good! Real good!

That lumber looks like SYP (southern yellow pine)? If so, it's a very tough/durable lumber, but can be very unruly if not stored properly and it bows, crowns, or cups.

I don't blame you for not working in that boat in 90*+ temps, I'm sure it's like an oven in there... probably could bake cookies in there.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Thanks Jig!

The small 2x2 stringers are Douglas Fir, and the bigger one are Hem Fir. While not every piece on the stack at the lumberyard were straight and true, the two we picked out were, and free of checks and cracks, and very dry. It seems like very stable wood.

 

[Jayboat66]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

your stringers job is very clean and solid!!! Douglas Fir, is the ideal wood for stringers but it is hard to find not warped. The most important is the fiber glass job because in the end wood is just a core.

 

[Tboner7864]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Hey GWPSR

Looking great!!! It been hundreds here no way I'm getting in my boat but I have it all open and it is definitely drying out, less wet boat smell, great pictures and instruction I can't thank you guys enough for all the effort documenting the rebuild gives me hope that one day I will be on my own boat. Tbone

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Looking great!!! ... great pictures and instruction I can't thank you guys enough for all the effort documenting the rebuild gives me hope that one day I will be on my own boat. Tbone

That's why I didn't post any pictures of yesterday's glassing :facepalm: I'd hate to ruin the illusion.

I was laying glass in 34x50 sheets from the edges of the big stringers, down the hull, up and over the 2x2 stringers, and over the keel yesterday. Not only does it take about 30 oz of mixed resin and hardener to wet out, all of the contours were torture. In addition to the two stringers to go over, there are two chines to lay down into. The first sheet, up against the bulkhead, starboard side, went pretty well. The second sheet, port side, against the bulkhead, started off fine, as it also overlaps the keel. By the time I got up to the stringer, I has stretched it a little lengthwise, and had to really work to get wrinkles out.

I should have stopped there, but I mixed up another quart and began to do the next sheet on the starboard side moving toward the stern. I ended up with bubbles I just could not coax out. I nearly ripped it up and threw it away, but the cheap bastard in me wouldn't let me toss a quart of epoxy and over a yard of cloth. The worst bubble is where the next sheet would overlap though, so I'm not going to sweat it. I'll cut it out and go over it. This is all under the tank anyway, and will be bilge painted, so minor blemishes don't bother me.

I may cut the 4th piece in two lengthwise when I lay it in to make it a little easier to position, and to be able to work with 12-16 oz of resin at a time.

The last two ought to be easier as they lay over those plywood panels in the bilge and only go over one stringer. That's how the first layer was there anyway.

Speaking of weather, we had a microburst here last Thursday. Knocked down hundreds of trees in a 1/2 mile wide by 3/4 mile long path over my neighborhood. We had no power for a half-day, which was pure hell with 100+ heat index and no fans or ice. No damage to the tent over my boat, or the covers on either of gwpjr's boats, thank goodness. I think the winds over my house were coming straight down, and out to all sides equally. I know rain was blowing in, horizontally, through open windows on all four sides of my house at the time.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

I don't know if epoxy works the same as poly, but when I did my huge lay ups of cloth, with an assistant, I might add...I wet the area where the cloth was to lay, then on top of some cardboard, I wet out the cloth until it turned mostly clear...between the two of us we carefully wrangled it into place, and had minimum problems getting everything to lay down, almost bubble-free...

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Wet biax without the layer of CSM on 1708 stitched to it doesn't wrangle well. It distorts very easily. I wet the area to be glassed, then lay the still dry cloth into it, and press it flat, massaging it into irregularities. Then additional resin is applied til the cloth is saturated. Most of my layup was pretty straightforward, but that last piece fought me. Maybe fatigue and impatience played into it too. It's not usually an issue. I'd probably use a wetting table if I was using roving.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Gotcha...good to know.:encouragement:
Great looking progress none the less!

 

[GWPSR]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Finished the last layer of glass over the big stringers the other day, and then brought home a couple of 12' 2x6's from Lowes.

Today I cut them to length (with the requisite 15 degree angle at the transom end), and relieved the corners where it meets fillets. These run along the sides of the hull above the chines, and are what the sole sits on along the sides. The originals were 1x4 tabbed to the the hull with chopper strand. These will be significantly more substantial.

They are about 3/8" to 1/2" too high after being scribed to the hull. I'll strike a line along the top of them by laying a straightedge across the stringers then trim them for height before coating them in epoxy and bedding them in.

I also took one of the thru-hull fittings off the hull where the head used to be. This hull is 3/8" thick on the sides. what a tank!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust

Lookin' rock solid and better than new GW!!!