1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

[Moserkr]

Hmmmm. Ok... then how about clear seal-all over 5200? Or will paint over 5200 protect against gas/oil leaks in the splashwell? 5200 is already sealing the sw edges. I remember reading that 5200 isnt gas/oil resistant. Thats my concern.

 

[Michigan Lakes]

I remember reading that 5200 isnt gas/oil resistant. Thats my concern.

@classiccat @SHSU and @dingbat had a healthy discussion concerning 5200 applications in posts #70-77 of my build. Have a look if you'd like.

1975 Starcraft SS 16' Freshen Up

My bunks sit 56 inches apart from edge to edge. SHSU After reviewing the trailer portions of your build, that seems like a better configuration than the setup I envisioned with the bunks sitting inside of the strakes. The design of some of these Escort brand trailers (see attached photo) led...

forums.iboats.com

 

[Moserkr]

Thanks for the refresh @Michigan Lakes . Thats exactly what I was trying to remember lol. Wish I would have just done coat-it now instead of 5200, but it may not flex enough. I really just need to protect the seam right under the motor where gas/oil would settle. I will also keep it nice and clean so gas doesnt soak in. I have seal-all which flexes like 5200, and that should be able to be applied over 5200. Its also gas/oil resistant. Real goal is fix the motor so Im not leaking gas/oil anyway... Sounds like Im a part of the experiment now lol.

 

[SHSU]

I haven't had any issues thus far, but I also painted over the 5200 several times since. Personally, for the application 5200 is the correct choice as you should be sandwiching it between the transom and the splashwell. Then doing a finish like you would with caulk. Again though, long term will tell.

SHSU

 

[Moserkr]

Sounds good @SHSU I will leave as is and paint over it as well. Worst comes to worst its just a pita to remove lol, but not impossible.

Another baby step today... Putty and 5200 wasnt quite dry, so cut out my console fronts that separate the consoles from the front deck. PO only had the top half cut and he put them on the outside, wrapped with vinyl. Heres my plan...

I want my 3/4” sealed ply console fronts to sit INSIDE the lips of the console. I was thinking about it on the outside, which would work, but without wrapping in vinyl, it would have an ugly plywood edge. So it would need to have trim then to stay with my no vinyl wrap build (minus seats). Plan will be to attach a vinyl wrapped padded backrest to the console boards. Also will attach the console boards to the floor, gunnel boards, and casting deck. Makes it an extremely important reinforcement piece. Will mount my fuse panel to it as well, and probably paint under the console black to blend in.

Im using leftover plywood so whats done is done, it must work now! Literally piecing everything together with whatevers left. I refuse to pay triple for plywood and am thankful I had bought some when it was only marginally inflated lol

 

[Moserkr]

Slowly chipping away at the final list. Tomorrow I will do a store run for the “remaining” pieces. Always will be 1 more thing... lol. Hoping to have her prepped, cleaned, taped, and primed too. Last 2 days ive been putting spar on the casting deck and console fronts when i have time. PO did not have the casting deck sealed so I made sure it and every other piece of wood was well done. I have exactly 2 weeks to try to get the boat finished enough to take my niece visiting from OK out for a splash. Boat wont be finished completely by then, but i think I can get it splashable. Call it a soft splash lol. The rest will be bench/bow seats and electronics. Here goes nothing!!!

 

[Moserkr]

Wefco came through with the rub rail today! Just in time. Yesterday I picked up and ordered some remaining pieces needed for the “finish”. Also sanded the rest of the boat down to prepare it for primer.

This afternoon, I washed, sprayed with vinegar water, and wiped down the boat. Let it dry, then hit it with spray primer, followed by a can of primer. Took a bit but turned out way better with a roller than when I used a paint brush. Found a good use for my bicycle too haha. Trim will need some touch up but thats fine.

Tomorrow, plan is to tape up the primer (assuming it doesnt mess with it) for the blue paint, so that i can paint the white areas. 2 coats of white first, then 2 coats of blue over the next few days is the plan. If i start early enough tomorrow and it dries fast enough, maybe ill get 2 coats a day. We shall see. Projects moving forward!

 

[Moserkr]

First coat of white on! Took a minute to get a rhythm going again but all turned out pretty well. Tomorrow, second coat of white. Then we will see how long til the white accepts tape so i can do the blue.

If youve been following along, then you may notice i switched up the paint scheme.... gunnel tops n trim went white. Areas above the gunnel shelf and along the bow seats under the gunnel will be blue. You can see the inside areas to be painted all taped off. The outside upper hull will still be blue. Cant wait to get it done!!

 

[SHSU]

Looking good!

Something to note, I know you want to get her done, but dry vs cure time are two different things. So I figure you are going to do more work prior to the paint being cured. Just keep that in mind as you put stuff on it even though it feels dry.

SHSU

 

[Moserkr]

Thanks @SHSU. Kinda learned the hard way last time with dry vs cure when I did the bottom and flipped it too soon. Lost a little paint on the side where the boat slid up the trailer first, and where the bow hits the bow stop. Friend winched it in too fast n tight.

I read that curing take 2-4 weeks depending on the conditions, and never truly stops. Is 2 weeks too soon to have everything mounted and back on the water? Can always pull out the kayaks when my niece visits.

Paint definitely dried faster this time. Its hotter and drier out, and we get mountain thermal breezes daily. The next 5 days are going to be hot and dry for here - low 90’s, humidity down in the 15-25% range. Then will cool to the low 80’s for the foreseeable future after that. Great painting weather.

 

[Moserkr]

2nd coat of white is on! Went really well and Im pretty happy with it. The splash rail trim along the gunnel was the hardest to paint. Ended up doing it by hand with a little sponge brush, just dabbing paint under the lip and along it, not letting it puddle or drip. Sponge brush left it nice and smooth when it was done, and the roller took care of the rest of the painting.

After the painting was done, I sanded the edges of the gunnel wood, and will finishing prepping it tomorrow. Then it will get stain and spar. Need to get the console pieces cut, sanded, stained, and sparred as well.

Another major step left is finishing the casting deck wood piece(s). PO made it with 2 piece of ply wood, with a deck hatch in the middle. I want to connect it into 1 piece, and put a different hatch in. Will see how this goes later....

 

[SHSU]

Oil based is usually 3 - 7 days. Latex (which shouldn't be used on boats) is 30 days minimum. Epoxy, depends on the brand.

As for taking it to the lake, I don't see any issues after 2 weeks. Scratches can be touched up and they will happen.

SHSU

 

[Moserkr]

Good to know! Definitely oil based. Its rustoleum topside paint, just gloss white and navy blue. Spec sheet from rustoleum said full cure in 3 days but i dont believe that. I will wait til the last minute to put the motor on but im going to charge full speed ahead!!

Coat #1 of blue is on!! Very happy with it. Its perfect paint conditions - warm and dry. Going to so a second coat tonight since 2 cups will easily do 2 coats and i dont want to waste paint. Its already nice n dry to the touch. May do another coat tomorrow too...

Also finished sanding the gunnel wood and stained it. Will spar it tomorrow.

Last, sold the old boat trailer for more boat tokens!! or whaterver they’re called lol. Boat account was low... All in a good day. 2nd coat of blue coming up now...

 

[Moserkr]

Blue paint is done!! (Teaser pics - tapes on) Ended up doing 4 coats... 2 was not enough and still could kind of see through it. Coat 3 was the smoothest and I probably should have stopped there. I hate being wasteful though so put on the 4th and it turned out fine. She wont win any beauty contests, but shes dressed up nice now. Just a few spots to touch up and paints done! Any recommendations on how to do a final sand to get the little bumps, bugs, n grits out??

Next steps - Finish building the gunnel wood, needs spar, and then cut/stain/spar consoles. Soon as the whites cured enough I will start putting pieces on. Also need to attach the wood to the consoles, test fit the windshield, and rivet the consoles to the floor. Will be juggling all that at once so I can get to putting the steering wheel/cables back on, electronics in, and motor on. Pushing hard for that soft splash!! 3x 90* days in a row have definitely made me want to be on the water... see y’all tomorrow with pics of the boat with tape off . Thanks for stopping by!

 

[SHSU]

Love the paint scheme, looks very familiar!!!


SHSU

 

[Moserkr]

Haha thanks! We are just one line different but colors look exactly the same. Since we live a few thousand miles apart, I doubt we will run into each other much n get em confused . Admiral’s happy with it and so am I!!

Actually ordered decals and HIN’s last night too, along with new tow chains. Trailer has perm plates but Id like it in my name so also have dmv paperwork to do, and a call to the insurance company... the real fun stuff lol.

 

[Moserkr]

Full paint no tape!! Gunnel woods done. And a little test fit of the windshield. Skeeters chased me out tonight but im halfway there. One of the PO’s drilled a nickel sized hole in the port side window frame, and that window is also missing. I can get new glass, but not sure how to fix that hole since the frame is unpainted. Need some ideas there... maybe just rivet on a patch. I dont know?

 

[SHSU]

Try a plastic furniture plug. ACE should have something that will fit the hole.

SHSU

 

[Moserkr]

Thanks @SHSU I will keep that in mind. I realized that hole is where the glass would be as well... so will have to just keep an eye out for options. Riveting a patch wont work. Plug may not work either then. May need to have it welded shut or just leave it. Not sure. Also found a rusty broken off screw just about that hole . Thats the work of POx2....

Been plugging away every chance I get, may not meet my hopeful deadline but Im trying. Yesterday I test fit the windshield before riveting down the consoles to the floor. Then put in the boards for the console fronts. Started to build the front casting deck/hatches which I will try to finish today. Also want to get the console dashes cut stained and sealed. If I can do that then Im on track to put in fuel tank/lines and electronics over the weekend. Last steps would be the motor, hydroturf, and gunnel wood/foam. Getting close!! Lets go!

If you noticed, the LF rivets I used go from the under the console to the outside, leaving the tail exposed. When I mount up the bow seat cushions eventually, those tails will go into the wood and disappear as I bolt it down with the blind bolts made for wood. Will be fun to get that all lined up lol

 

[Moserkr]

Tired, didnt get as much done as I was hoping to today. Will hit it hard again tomorrow. Front deck is ready to go in though, and the support piece that encases the fuel tank is in. Cut 2 hatches that will go in whenever the hydroturf goes on.

One thing I really wanted was a recessed casting deck chair mount. Ended up making shallow cuts, then chiseling out the wood to make the mount fit flush. Sanded and sealed it of course. Since it lacked support being flush, I added a huge AL plate behind it (pictures tomorrow).

Tomorrow goal is to get the casting deck and gas tank in, then build the console dashes. If I can start on electrical, I will. First mate loved playing in the new hideouts today too