1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

[osborn159]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

very nice looking project, well worth the effort to rebuild even if you didnt feel you owed her something, looks like it should ride really nice, you got plenty of help here just ask someone here proly been there done that, good luck, D

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

OK - so I spent more time today taking out rotted deck and soggy
foam. Todays questions 1. When I am ready to get the cap off do I just
remove the rub rail all around the hull and I assume it is screwed or attached
in some manner. Do I need to brace the lower part of the hull ro it will maintain its shape, or is it going to be fine without bracing. Thanks!

A bunk trailer is best if the cap comes off.
Chrysler uses glass tabs every few feet to hold the cap along with rivets and nuts and bolts, a dremel with a grinder tip will do rivets, or a drill should work.
You should replace with stainless rivets.
When I did my chrysler I left the cap on, but cut the splashwell and deck off.
If you have the time and room then removing the cap is better.

 

[charlie Noble]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Thank you all for your support and info. more soggy foam today, seem
to have devised a system that is speeding up the process. You are
certainly correct in the amount of water that can be held in that foam.
Once I get a little farther along I will send more pictures. Questions for
today 1. I read in one of the other threads that dimensional lumber is
seldom used in boat restoration. Why? and what should I be using
to replace the rotted stringers. 2. Looking at other threads I have
seen what appears to be Owens/Corning foam insulation and also
poured foam. are both acceptable and which is better? If I am going
to do this I want to do it in the best possible manner I can.

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

"best possible manner I can"

that can be expensive if you use composites which contain no wood, or just do as most of us do and get some decent exterior grade PT ply, allow it to dry out first. Inspect the original build and take measurements as you remove the old, pics help later on too. I just went back with what came out, except for the transom. My deck is molded glass, I saved it and glassed it back.
It was cored with what actually looked like cardboard honeycomb which had gotten wet, I cut that out and replaced it with thickened resin and chopped glass to make the deck solid.

 

[charlie Noble]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Thanks Jonesg I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and your insights. I have only been able to work on boat for about an hour a
night after work - boy an hour can go fast. ROT AND MORE ROT AND LOTS OF
SOGGY FOAM. weather man is calling for a foot of snow here Wed. night.
in the Adirondacks - can't say I am to excited about that as I don't have
a garage and am working in yard.

 

[charlie Noble]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Sun is out today, snow has almost melted, I can untarp the
boat again- When I get all of the foam out (and it is heavy) I will tackle
the stringers. This is my plan will someone please see if this makes any
sense. 1. remove engine 2. Remove cap 3. remove remaining deck
that wa under storage bins on either side of walk thru 4. remove whatever
foam I find in the bow area. 5. Remove stringers which I know already
are rotted. 5. remove the transom from the inside leaving the outer
skin of fiberglass OK so if the above order of attack is correct I now
have an empty shell of a hull. From reading other threads seems like
there is a lot of grinding or sanding to be done. At this point in time
what am I grinding etc. the actual fiberglass hull that I have exposed
now seems to be in good shape. I am trying to figure out some of
your terms if someone could help 1. PL is construction adhesive?
2. 5200 is this some type of sealant? 3. PY is this a special grade of
exterior plywood? As always your knowledge and help to a beginner
is most appreciated. I will post more pictures when I ge the foam
removed.

 

[charlie Noble]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Good Morning - Weather has not been cooperating - my hours at work weather is great - get home and figure I can get a couple hours work
on the boat and RAIN!!. I have the deck off and foam out from the
console to about midway under the splash well. Going forward from
the windshield - walk thru area foam seems to be dry. The Stringers
going forward to the bow are dark but don't seem to be soft or rotted
like they were towards the stern. Do you guys think that I should
leave that section as is and just cut off the splash well to gain access
to the transom area or take off the whole cap and replace everything
being I'm 3/4 of the way there anyway?? I have ordered my Resin and
csm etc. to get going. I will post more pictures tonight if weather
cooperates.

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Sun is out today, snow has almost melted, I can untarp the
boat again- When I get all of the foam out (and it is heavy) I will tackle
the stringers. This is my plan will someone please see if this makes any
sense. 1. remove engine 2. Remove cap 3. remove remaining deck
that wa under storage bins on either side of walk thru 4. remove whatever
foam I find in the bow area. 5. Remove stringers which I know already
are rotted. 5. remove the transom from the inside leaving the outer
skin of fiberglass OK so if the above order of attack is correct I now
have an empty shell of a hull. From reading other threads seems like
there is a lot of grinding or sanding to be done. At this point in time
what am I grinding etc. the actual fiberglass hull that I have exposed
now seems to be in good shape. I am trying to figure out some of
your terms if someone could help 1. PL is construction adhesive?
2. 5200 is this some type of sealant? 3. PY is this a special grade of
exterior plywood? As always your knowledge and help to a beginner
is most appreciated. I will post more pictures when I ge the foam
removed.

Home depot sells PL adhesive in cartridges, a grease gun works good.
They have the best price on the 3M 5200 marine sealant.
PT is pressure treated plywood, exterior grade is made with waterproof glue like marine grade but cheaper. So get exterior PT. Get it now and let it dry out or the resin will not bond to it.

I would pop the cap off, its not a huge boat and it'll make everything go easier. Get a shovel.

 

[charlie Noble]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury- whats the rub on the rub rail

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury- whats the rub on the rub rail

OK so I had a few minutes to work on the boat today. - I was going to
start taking the rub rail off and tackle the rivets. Was having hard time
getting hard rubber or plastic whatever the material is out of the groove
to expose the rivets and screws. Is it supposed to come out and
then be reused or is it a sacrificail lamb and is lost for the good of the
project? If it is supposed to be reuseable what is the secrect to getting
it out without screwing it all up? Thanks for any responses

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

It does get brittle over the years. You will need the assistance of a heat gun or hot are gun. It should peel right out. You can also replace the rub rail but it can be quite expensive.

 

[charlie Noble]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Thanks for the quick reply - I should have thought of that!

 

[Coho Ghost]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Charlie,

I getting ahead of you a bit with this post, but you mentioned you planed on doing a "poured" transom repair. I highly recommend the NIDA Core Transom compound. It is reasonable in cost, and the NIDA people are great to work with. They have a Tech. support person who is a big help. Here is what he suggested I do on my transom job.

After ALL the wood is removed from the transom, sand all surfaces with coarse paper. This was a real challenge for me as my inner skin was still intact, which necessitated gluing sand paper to narrow board, and getting down in between the skins. Then vacumn all the dust out, followed by a thorough washing with acetone. I used a 1/2" dowel with a "swab" stapled on the end. Finally, the day before you pour, give the total interior surfaces a coat of resin. I used vinyl ester on my project. You can not use epoxy with NIDA compound.

The NIDA compound is easy to work with. Be SURE and devise some sort of "funnel" to pour down, as you will be pouring from a 5 gal. pail. NIDA's web site has a "calculator" to determine the volume of compound you will need. There is also a table to determine the amount of MEKP to catyalize the compound.

Finally their gal, Ann Tromm, does a super job getting the order expedited, and on it's way. I think you will be quite satisified with the NIDA product.


Coho Ghost,
Up in Washington state

 

[charlie Noble]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Thanks for the info on the NIDA Core

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Coho forgot one minor detail, nida is half the cost of seacast.
I wish I had used it but I already had the seacast when I discovered nidacore.

 

[charlie Noble]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury Good day more pictures

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury Good day more pictures











HI All!
Today was a good day - got alot of things accomplished- a day off, no
rain or snow - a friend to help here is what was done today
1. Built support out of 4x4 posts and removed engine using the
raising and lowering of the bow to lift the engine.

2. removed a lot of inside trim
3. using blow dryer heated the rubber in the rub rail so that
it could be removed.

4. drilled out rivets so that cap could be removed

5. lifted up the cap so that we could slide a ladder between cap and
hull found the center of gravity for the cap and used the ladder like
a yoke we walked the cap off forward and set it on lawn.

6. Transom is in pretty ruff shape . Transom was only double thickness
for about 6 inches high the total width of top. Was pretty well rotted
and as you can see by the pictures was quite bowed out at top.

So far have use circular saw, roto zip, dremel tool and trusty
hammer and screw driver for destruction.

Thanks for everyones information that has been shared so far.

 

[ljd1971]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Keep up the good work. My family had the exact same boat (same color even) rigged with a Chrysler 105 when I was growing up. We replaced the floor in 1986 or so but stopped short of the job you've undertaken.

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

I can't believe that's all there is to that transom. I know if it were me, when replacing that transom, I would do the entire transom with plywood. Great job so far. It's a lot of work but it will pay off in the end.

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

You built a gallows !
er.. can it be converted to a guilletine?

You're doin it the right way, just get in there and get it out.

I would also do like tall canadien says on the transom , thats a good idea, then you can put anything you want on the transom later.

 

[charlie Noble]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Thanks for your replies. I never thought of those after uses, but either
may be good ideas. I just won't suggest either to the wife. I think that
I will just go with the plywood transom - leaning towards double 3/4
inch. I plan to leave the outer skin of fiberglass - Do you think when
I get the little bit of wood that is attached off of it if the bow in it
will go away or am I going to have the replace outer skin also??

Just for the sake of asking would the 5/4 plastic decking planks
(trek deck or similar brand) work as a stringer being it is supposed to
last forever??

I will need to take some close up pictures of the bilge area around
the transom as I think I am going to have some questions

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

No, leave the outer skin. That is the main part of your boat. Once you install plywood and fiberglass it will go back to shape. I believe the reason why it's bowed is because the isn't enough structure there. Ply the whole transom. This will give you strength beyond belief. Forget the plastic planks as well. Measure the thickness of the transom now and get your plywood the same thickness. You may have to bond to pieces together. I used a 3/4 inch and a 5/8 inch and PL them together to get the proper thickness.