1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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14,597
Thanks kcassells.

I am presently crimping the connectors and then soldering them. I know that will get some people stirred up. But it is the way I like doing such things and I've never ever had any issues making connections that way.

More to come and maybe even pictures of an installed live well now.
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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Looking good!

Thanks!

Today I made a lot of head way. Well at least it seemed that way to me. The temps have once again dropped, but it is dry. So you can have rain and warm temps or dry and cold temps, but not both at the same time. But I managed to get some progress in the cold temps.

I installed the live well drain in the transom and even plumbed the live well with the hoses and clamps. But making those hoses fit on the different fittings while they are cold is very hard to do. So I got out the heat gun and warmed the hoses and fittings a little to get them on the fittings. And even with that, it was still a fight. But I did get them in place. :peace:

I am using nylon reinforced clear hose (bought it at Lowe's) and it was really flexible in the warm days. Not so much today. But with a little heat gun work, I fit them on and tightened them with the new hose clamps I just received. I ordered all new stainless steel hose clamps for everything I needed them for. Way cheaper then buying a few locally by a LOT! And they shipped them free and quick as well.

I also fit the trolling motor battery box in place in the front driver's seat storage box. And before you think that was just setting the box in place, let me explain.The battery box I bought was for a group 29 battery. And seems I built the seat storage box about an inch too small at the lip seal at the top, to get the battery box to fit in. So I band-sawed the plastic end handles off. Now it fits, but absolutely tight.

I also installed the auto bilge sensor in place too. I like where it sits and how easy it would be to get to if ever needed. :high5:

I was planning to continue wiring up the panels, but after a few hours fighting the plumbing, I decided to make it a day and stopped. Tomorrow's another day and I can say I am getting excited now as I can see everything planned coming together...finally.
 

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gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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The temps are dropping even lower (of course), but I did manage to get some more things finished.

I also ordered, or at least tried to order in a sample of a rub rail insert to verify it could fit before buying the entire roll of it. If that fits, the rub rail issue is finished as well. We'll see.

Yesterday I installed the actual bilge drain tube in the transom. I didn't have the factory flare tool, but I did come up with a home-made idea that worked very well. I used a few lug nuts to fill in the 1" inside diameter to keep the threaded bolt centered and used a 1/4" thick flat large washer on the out side the transom, and a large tapers nut on the inside. And after cranking down with some large wrenches, it flared out very well. Then I peened the flare over with a small ball-peen hammer and then used a 1/4" flat washer on the inside as well and tighten it down flat on both sides. I coated that tube and opening with 100% silicone to seal it up before hand.

I thought about 3M 5200, and even PB mixture, but I settled with the 100% silicone. If water gets in there, I'll be very impressed...

I also wired some more on the panels. There are lots of wires and crimp/solder joints to go yet. I am also drawing out a boat schematic for future issues if there is ever a need. With the schematic diagram (a copy placed in the boat somewhere around the control panel) and the wire labels, no one should even have a problem with repairs if one should occur.

More to come!
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Looking great Gm ! The homemade float switch is cool ! Takes up less space in the bilge pocket looks like ...
 

gm280

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Looking great Gm ! The homemade float switch is cool ! Takes up less space in the bilge pocket looks like ...

Thanks sphelps, Yea that bilge probe has no moving parts and is protected from anything floating in the water and I've used them before without any issues for years. Float switches seem to have issues with getting stuck on or off. So this seems to avoid those problems. And like you stated, it takes up a very small space and works great.

With the cold weather now (freezing in the mornings) it makes it harder to do certain things for the boat. But I will work on the circuits and wiring until the temps are high enough to use PB and such. Once the live well in PBed in, the carpet will be next and with only a few things left to install, the engine mount it scheduled. I also have to rework a gas tank, but that isn't a huge issue either.
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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I have a question for those that have done this before.

I need to replace the rub rail insert since mine turned out to be dark green after I cleaned off all the dirty and such. But searching all over, I haven't found the exact profile type I need. I have found a type that I think would work, but I hate to buy $120 dollars plus to find out it doesn't. I have already emailed one company to ask if they could send an inch or let me buy a foot to see if it works. But they haven't replied either way. Have any of you tried getting or buying a sample from any of the the vendors? If so which one(s)? :help:
 

gm280

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Here are a few pictures of what my old rub rail insert looks like and what I think will work if I could only get a sample to verify.
 

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sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Yeah it’s amazing how proud they are of those inserts.. The cost is rediculus and they don’t sell it by the length that you need ..When I was looking for some for the MFG it only came in 50 ft rolls and very pricey .. You guessed it ! I needed 52 feet !:lol:
Thats why I just found some nice looking black rope to install instead ..
 

gm280

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All I really need is a sample to verify it will work before buying a 50' roll and finding out it doesn't and out $120 dollars or more. I would even buy a foot sample it they offered it. I yet to find such a sample. But I am still searching...
 

gm280

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I actually looked at their offerings and I think there is one or two profiles that could work. Do you know if they offer or sell samples? Because I really need a sample to verify it could work before laying out $120 plus dollars to find out it doesn't. Something about the wasting money thing. I know should be that way... :facepalm:
 

oldrem

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Nov 7, 2013
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I think Pete will sell any amount, they're in California, so probably open now.
PH: 818-886-8872
FAX: 818-886-8875
 

gm280

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Well after emailing a couple places to get a sample free or even pay for it, none have any such samples. Odd, how do you know from a mere profile drawing that it will work with your metal rail? I mean I am trying to find a newish insert since nobody has my original profile listed.

I have a few more to try, from the comment suggestions, and will request them today... Thanks to all offering ideas. I am proceeding with other boat things in the mean time.

Tried to post this yesterday, but seems the iboat site was really messed up. I couldn't even begin to get to my thread...
 

gm280

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Okay, I have now emailed a few rub rail insert vendors and offered to pay for a mere 1" sample or even a foot long sample if they will, and not one of them does anything like that. How do you get a sample to verify it will actually fit to replace your old "can't-be-found" insert to try before you lay out the money and find out it won't work. You are then stuck with a large roll of insert and out the money. Odd not one place was willing to sell me a mere inch sample to try. I haven't given up yet but it isn't look too promising at this point. I either take a change on the insert fitting or I own insert that I will never be able to use...:frusty:

More looking and YES I have already tried everybody's suggested place offer thus far. And I do thank you all for those suggestions. Some of them seems to have possibilities, but no guarantee it will fit.. :violin: :(
 

oldrem

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You could cut pieces of the current one and send them to the places most likely and let THEM match it up
 

gm280

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You could cut pieces of the current one and send them to the places most likely and let THEM match it up

Yeah, I am actually thinking of doing that. I was hesitant to cut anything off the old rub rail insert in case I had to use it. It just fits now. But I either cut a piece off and send it to the vendor, or take a chance at buying something that looks like it could work.

Still amazes me they don't have samples of their inserts. I'm sure during the manufacturing process they have left overs for such things. They could easily have some 1" size samples to sell for just this type situation. They wouldn't be out any money or have to cut into the prepackaged rolls. But it is what it is.

We will get it all worked out.
 

oldrem

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Nov 7, 2013
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When I ordered 30ft from Wefco I received almost 33ft - so sounds like they shouldn't be worried about an inch or 2
 
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