1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

Tnstratofam

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Aug 18, 2013
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Tell you a little trick I learned when I was 13 and my mom and I had to repair the main water line coming into our trailer. It had frozen and busted because the heat tape we were using went out, and we didn't leave any of the taps trickling water to prevent the lines from freezing.

Any way we had water left in the line and every time I would start to get the pipe hot enough for the solder to melt the steam from the water would cause the solder not to take. My mom had an old boyfriend who she had seen use some light bread to stop the water in a pipe from doing this. So she ran inside and got a piece of bread and we broke off a small amount and put it in the pipe to sop the water from draining. It worked like a charm. Then we turned on the bathtub faucet and let it run until we saw what bread didn't dissolve ( Which was very little ) come out of the spigot.

It was a neat trick that I have used on more than one occasion.
 

nurseman

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^^I have always used a crumbled up saltine cracker to do the same thing. Works like a charm every time!
 

gm280

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Okay, here is a little quick drawing of what I was trying to solder.

Plumbing Problem.jpg

I tried numerous times to solder that 90 degree 1/2" street fitting and even when it looked sealed, I took a little inspection mirror and would look all around the joint only to see the mirror steam up knowing it wasn't sealed. So I finally decided to cut the 1/2" pipe going to the shower about three inches down and use a sleeve fitting once I got the street fitting soldered. And that finally did it. The original pin hole was on the 3/4" inlet pipe and I bought some 3/4" pipe and soldered that without an issue. But during soldering that pipe in place, the street fitting opened up. I guess the heat went to that fitting and the stream pushed it out. Understand this is at the actual foundation in a very little area to work with. I was on my knees trying to do all this with cold and rain coming down, actually kneeling in about 4" of water. I perfect scenario for an imperfect job.

But all is well again in gm280 land. And that is what really counts.
 

Patfromny

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Dec 2, 2012
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A trick I learned from a plumber buddy of mine is to use a bleeder valve like they use on base board heating. Cut it in and leave the bleeder valve wide open. Steam escapes from the valve and the solder takes fine. Then just close the valve and you're good to go.
 
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gm280

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A trick I learned from a plumber buddy of mine is to use a bleeder valve like they use on base board heating. Cut it in and leave the bleeder valve wide open. Steam escapes from the valve and the solder takes fine. Then just close the valve and you're good to go.

I actually thought about using one as well. But when I decided to try one more time with cutting the pipe leading to the master bath shower, it solder without any problem. There was no steam building up to blow out the solder at the 90 degree street fitting. If I could have stopped the water standing in the pipe from converting to steam every time I heated the fitting to solder, it would have sealed the first time. But I couldn't get the water out even using an air hose to try and blow out as much water as I could. You can believe I was seriously frustrated trying all this in the cold and rain. Didn't take much for me to quit after a few soldering tries. I couldn't actually see the water, but I knew there was water still in the pipes. Glad that is all behind me now though. :smile:
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Okay, here is a little quick drawing of what I was trying to solder.



I tried numerous times to solder that 90 degree 1/2" street fitting and even when it looked sealed, I took a little inspection mirror and would look all around the joint only to see the mirror steam up knowing it wasn't sealed. So I finally decided to cut the 1/2" pipe going to the shower about three inches down and use a sleeve fitting once I got the street fitting soldered. And that finally did it. The original pin hole was on the 3/4" inlet pipe and I bought some 3/4" pipe and soldered that without an issue. But during soldering that pipe in place, the street fitting opened up. I guess the heat went to that fitting and the stream pushed it out. Understand this is at the actual foundation in a very little area to work with. I was on my knees trying to do all this with cold and rain coming down, actually kneeling in about 4" of water. I perfect scenario for an imperfect job.

But all is well again in gm280 land. And that is what really counts.

Did you open the faucet and shower {after being isolated or shutting off the house main} to drain the water out and also to relieve the pressure while you soldered?
Probably a low point where all other fixtures water ran to. A few times I have had to sit there and boil the water to steam so it finally got below the water level to make the joint. Fluxing and touching w/solder as thsi goes on and you can eventually see the solder take.
Glad it's fixed.
 

gm280

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Did you open the faucet and shower {after being isolated or shutting off the house main** to drain the water out and also to relieve the pressure while you soldered?
Probably a low point where all other fixtures water ran to. A few times I have had to sit there and boil the water to steam so it finally got below the water level to make the joint. Fluxing and touching w/solder as thsi goes on and you can eventually see the solder take.
Glad it's fixed.

Yes, I actually had a few faucets opened, but I think the distance they were away didn't help out, IDK. All I know is every time I put the inspection mirror around the fitting to see if the back side was soldered, it would steam up the mirror after each solder try. Only after cutting the 1/2" pipe going to the shower did it seal. And the sleeve covering the cut pipe soldered perfectly the very first try like usual. :noidea:
 

gm280

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Well moving along with other things I had to do as well. I think I made reference to re-ring my Kohler 15 HP lawn mower engine. Well that is now all put back together with rings, seals, and mounted on the lawn mower again .However, I couldn't start it yet because I am presently working on the carb. It is a very expensive Walbro LMK series carb that for some reason cost more then I ever wanted to pay for a new one.

The actual throttle shaft was so waddled out that it had an amazing amount of side play in the shaft to carb body. So brainiac me figured I would just buy a new throttle shaft. Well you can't! Walbro stopped supporting this series carb and there are no parts available for this thing. Well at least throttle shafts available even with the part number and trying to find even a NOS anywhere.

SOOOoooooo I decided to make a new one my self. I made others before so I thought I would make one for this carb. Problem was the shaft wasn't the only part worn. The case was as well, problem solved. I drill the carb body, squared up on my drill press, to the next size up to remove all the waddled out area and then turned down a long brass bolt on the lathe that was in my parts draws and cut it to the correct length and filed down a flat section to hold the butterfly. Then drilled and tapped the holes for the butterfly screws and it fits nicely. Actually a very nice solid but smooth fit. Carb is near about finished now. Some times you just have to make your own parts. :smiles:

With everything getting finished up now, maybe the boat can be back on the work schedule again. Hope so!
 

Woodonglass

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FYI on the soldering. I had a similar problem and used toilet paper and poked it back into the pipe to absorb the water and keep it away from the area needing solder. I got the soldering done and then turned the water back on. Waited a few minutes for the Paper to soften and dissolve. Opened the valve and flushed it out. Worked great.
 

gm280

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FYI on the soldering. I had a similar problem and used toilet paper and poked it back into the pipe to absorb the water and keep it away from the area needing solder. I got the soldering done and then turned the water back on. Waited a few minutes for the Paper to soften and dissolve. Opened the valve and flushed it out. Worked great.

Ha WOG, that is a good idea that I will try if I ever have a similar problem. I have soldered copper pipes before, but this time was the worst. Thanks for the idea.
 

gm280

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Okay additional updates of other projects. I finished re-ringing the Kohler engine with new seals and rings, and it amazingly runs like a scalded ape now, and without any oil burning as well. Imagine that new rings and valve seal and it doesn't burn oil anymore. Small wonders.

I had to make a new throttle shaft for the Walbro carb, and that took the most time. I had to file the flat area on the brass shaft after turning it down on the lathe. Then drill and tap the holes to secure the butterfly plate. But it run pretty nice again. So on to other projects so I can get the boat worked on again.
 

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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always thought those kohler engines would make a great inboard on a small boat like 30 20 horse that was on a old gravely tractor I ran around a yard
 

gm280

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always thought those kohler engines would make a great inboard on a small boat like 30 20 horse that was on a old gravely tractor I ran around a yard


mickyryan, of all the engines I've run and used over the years in different types of yard equipment, this CV15 Kohler Command engine has got to be the best I've ever owned. Cutting over an acre of lawn every week during the growing season for over 16-18 years and zero cylinder wear is amazing to me. The rings did wear, but that is cheap to replace verse boring and new piston. I guess the oil pump system with spin on filter has a lot to do with it. :noidea:
 

mickyryan

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imma look into it I mean think of a small one pushing along it would have to put out enough power to go 10 to 20 mph easily
 

gm280

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A little update on our weather. Seems after getting around 6 to 7 inches of rain now, and we really needed it too, it has cleared up. I am actually seeing the sunshine again. It hasn't shown its face in a while. And our outside temp is presently at 91 degrees. Okay did I tell you our outside temperature sensor/sender is not working correct? :facepalm: I guess it is time to buy a new setup or read what it states and constantly wonder. :noidea: It is suppose to get to 72 today. But that is a far cry from 91.

I am finishing up some little side projects and hope to get back to sanding the hull soon. With good weather, I can get it done. :thumbi
 

Red Herring

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Oct 1, 2012
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536
Nice job with the primer on the boat, looks real good! Never seen a hull like that in person, guess it's pretty stable while shifting weight?
 

gm280

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Nice job with the primer on the boat, looks real good! Never seen a hull like that in person, guess it's pretty stable while shifting weight?

Thanks RH for the kind words. It is a typical tri-hull boat and really near finished if I can force myself to get back at it. Seems everything else is cropping up to take its place to work on. But I will finish it because the crappie fish want to see it on the water. Who knows, some of them may even jump in to take a ride. At least that is what I am hoping for. :facepalm:
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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I'll take 71 deg all day long ! Been a little warmer down here gm but it's supposed to get cold this weekend ... News said chance of snow flurry"s ..:)
Wouldn't ya rather have good fish jump in the boat instead of crappie fish ? :drum: :D :bolt:
 

gm280

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I'll take 71 deg all day long ! Been a little warmer down here gm but it's supposed to get cold this weekend ... News said chance of snow flurry"s ..:)
Wouldn't ya rather have good fish jump in the boat instead of crappie fish ? :drum: :D :bolt:


Sam, if you have gone as long as I have without fishing, any fish is welcome in my boat. So a crappie fish is certainly welcome. I will probably get all excited catching a minnow. :faceapalm:
 

Red Herring

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Oct 1, 2012
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I know that feeling, by now I'd be content with plankton soup :)

What grit you going to be using on the primer btw? And how much smoother grit near the edges??
 
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