1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

[sphelps]

The pb way is super easy but I stopped doing that to save band width ..

 

[gm280]

Well yesterday I was planning to start mixing and foaming. HOWEVER, life gets in the way...as usual. I had to first mower the yard, ( over an acre) and then drain and change out a radiator on my wife's SUV. So guess what didn't happen. The radiator was only 18 years old. I don't understand why it was leaking... :facepalm: And it had both an engine oil cooler (EOC) in it AND a transmission oil cooler (TOC) in it. So all those things are now working again from the new radiator install. But those things are now off the to-do list and today I plan on trying to mix and pour if only a few sections. I am interested in how it comes out myself. So maybe the next update will be some clever pictures of the foaming exercise... :smile:

You all have a wonderful day... :thumb:

 

[gm280]

And the updates keep pouring in...pun intended... :facepalm:

Well I did get to mix and pour the foam todays. WOW was that actually fun... I still have three sections left to do, but I used up the one kit I purchased and was amazed to see how far that stuff actually went. Before I PBed the floor in, I took measurements of each section and wrote them down and figured out the cubic feet each would take, give or take a little. So today I used those guestimations and started mixing up what I thought would be the proper amount. And while that really didn't work out to exact, it was extremely close. I was also able to adjust the mixtures for the port side after doing the starboard side to see if I needed more or less. So the port side was a lot closer then the starboard side. But all came out nice. And I still have another kit that isn't even opened yet as well. SO I will finish up tomorrow for sure. Here are the pictures and you can see that it did happen... :smile:

This is what I started with. Yes the pour and overflow holes are a lot bigger then the originals were because WOG told me I needed to enlarge them. So this is the start.

As you can see I missed this one by about 4ozs of foam mixture. But I will add a little tomorrow and it will be good. I used an inspection mirror to see how much was not filled and there is only about four or five cubic inches that wasn't foamed. Not a problem...

On the port side I mixed up just a little more and it filled out perfectly. So I had to place a plastic top over the hole and added a little weight by sitting an old axle hub on top. That actually worked out really well. As you can see that filled out perfect...


And a final picture to show that I did have some overflows. But that too is not a big problem. All in all I enjoyed this part of the build and I will tell you all that have never used this type mix and pour foam that you really do have a lot more time then you think with mixing and pouring this foam. It stated you have 20 to 30 seconds to mix vigorously and then pour. Well 30 second sounds like you will be rushed. But in reality 30 seconds is a long time. So don't worry over that time constraint. It doesn't take but one maybe two mixes to get the hang of it and then it becomes predictable... :thumb:

I will say that there is some heat developed during this foaming process. Not anything to burn you, but you can easily feel the heat and know exactly if you filled the space by where the heat is. I like it and certain will use it again without question...

Okay until next update, you all have a great day... :thumb:

 

[bonz_d]

Bravo my friend! exceptional. Don't know what else to say.

 

[sphelps]

Great job with very little waist ! So how much more you gunna do to it before the flip ?

 

[kcassells]

I Justs gots to ask....did you use the KC method? for the mix and pour or another technique. The area looks way to clean.

 

[gm280]

bonz_d, thanks for the kind words. I really liked doing this mix and pour. Went way better then I was worried about...

sphelps: "Great job with very little waist ! So how much more you gunna do to it before the flip ?" Well I want to do the rod boxes yet so I can remove the rub rail and not have any problems with flexing before the flip. Presently, the hull is like a solid rock except a very little flex at the edge of the top. So the rod boxes should make that solid as well. But I am very close now... I tried to keep the waste down so I wouldn't run out. But I bought two 8 cubic foot kits and I ran out of the first kit just short of finishing the floor. So I know I have enough to finish the floor and the bottom sections of the rod boxes as well with out running out. I guess I measured pretty close... :noidea:

kcassells, Actually I did start out using KC's method. But I changed and here's why. The first mixture I used a plastic bag (very small trash can liner) in a small gallon or two size bucket container. And I poured both Part A and B in and started mixing. But the trash can liner was getting in the way and I had a hard time mixing the foam material without the liner interfering. So I grabbed the liner and a scissors and went to the first pour hole. I tried to cut the corner of the liner and being left handed that wasn't working out very well. So I literally used the scissor to tear the bag in the corner and started squeezing the liner to push the material into the hole. I guess you can say a little panic was setting in because I didn't know how much time I had left before it started expanding being my first mix and pour effort. So I decided to forego the liner method and go to regular containers. BUT, I used cleaned out two liter soda bottles cut down and some of my collection of coffee containers and most anything that was large enough and made of plastic to mix the foam in. For the part A and part B containers, I used some auto paint store measuring containers that have both ozs and milliliter markings on the containers with ratio marking as well for PPG paints and primers. And I put a piece of masking tape on them marking one Part A and the other Part B. I used them through out the foaming session. They allow me very equal measurements without guessing. All those mixing containers allowed me to pour without any issues. Yes I tried to keep everything pretty clean. And I did make some little drips but swiped them up before they even had time to expand. So from looking at the end results, it seem basically clean. I will finish up the last three sections today and work the rod box layout now.

Until next update, you all have a wonderful day... :thumb:

 

[Mikeopsycho]

Nice job! I agree, the pour foam is kinda fun to work with. Empty 2 liter soda bottles....good idea. :thumb:

 

[kcassells]

Cool beans and Great yob! I like the bottle idea too! Always dinking!

 

[gm280]

Ha thanks Mike and KC for the replies. I went out to the shop this morning and I had empty mix and pour foam containers sitting all around from yesterday's pour. And I thought I would try to clean them out for reuse. And to my amazement, the cured foam basically peeled out of those plastic container with relative ease. I had some that I pulled the residual foam out near about in one piece. So I can now reuse most of those containers. Sadly the cut down soda bottles wasn't so easy to try and remove the foam. So they have gone to the resting place of other empty soda bottles now. :cold: But the other containers are ready to use again... :smile: So onwards... :thumb:

 

[gm280]

Today's update.

I finished mixing and pouring the foam and even refilled the two low sections. And I did get a really nice looking huge mushroom because I guess I poured more foam in then was needed. However it is easy to cut off and I will use a small laminate trim router with a straight cutting bit to grind out the holes so the hole plugs will PB in place. And I also finished the wiring of the seat bases and there are ready to PB in place as well. So that is what today will hopefully happen. And before I cut into the new sheets of plywood for the rod boxes, I will make cardboard replicates to see how they will look. So moving on...

You all have a really nice day... :thumb:

 

[gm280]

Two updates in one day...now that is unbelievable.... :facepalm:

I managed to cut all the overflows from the mix and pour foam and then was trying to figure out how to mount the LEDs in the live well. If I drill through the live well (cooler plastic) how do I seal the holes so they never leak again. And if a mount them on the top under the lip edge, will they shine on the top of the water and make a glare as to block out seeing into the water. I'd like to mount them at the bottom of the live well so I could easily see what was in it at night, but I don't know what would seal the holes from leaking. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. However, I did PB the two seat bases in as well. So rod boxes are next and the front bow section for the trolling motor to mount. Then it is flip over time and paint...

You all have a fantastic weekend... :thumb:

 

[gm280]

Some more updates with pictures. :clap2:

Well I finished the mix and pour foaming and have to say that was both interesting and fun. Seem it doesn't take much to amuse me these days, and watching foam expand was all it took... So I was thinking. I know I really should do that, but I did. And I was wondering how to prepare the foam holes for the plugs to go back in. And then it hit me... :brick: What if I took my laminate trim router and used a straight cutting bit to cut the hole out and make them level and ready for the PB and plugs. And that is exactly what I did. Truly easy and so quick too as you can see...

I used a basic straight cutting bit and set it just about an 1/8" deeper then the puck. And that is so I can get PB under the puck it as well as around it to plug over the holes. I think I managed to cut the all the holes in less then 3 minutes total...

You can see one cut and one not.

And the plug...

And the plug setting in the hole. It is just shy of the top. But when PBing them, it will be flush...

Then I switched to drilling out the three holes in the transom for the bilge, live well pump and the live well overflow drain. I could of done this months ago, but I was putting it off worried that if I make a mistake, it will be more work. But I figured go do it and see how it works out. All I can say is that stuff is rock hard to drill through. I drilled the live well pump hole and the live well drain holes larger then actually needed. Then I am going to fill them in with a PB mixture and re-drill them out again but to the correct size. Reason? So that there will ne no exposed wood near the holes for water intrusion.

The bilge drain (center hole) is already through a solid section of PB mixture and therefore I drilled it out to the correct size.

And finally for the day, I tabbed in the seats both inside and out for their first tabbing... So now you would have to cut/saw/grind them out if you needed to remove them again...


So that is todays updates and it is moving along...

Until next update, you all have an amazing day... :thumb:

 

[sphelps]

Looks like the router made quick work of it ! Seat bases look great ... I,m still debating if I should glass my console in or not ..

 

[gm280]

Looks like the router made quick work of it ! Seat bases look great ... I,m still debating if I should glass my console in or not ..

Sam I can tell you, if you glass it in, it is there to stay... I would never believe how stronger just the PB was initially. And with the tabbing, those seat bases are never coming out again... So if you are wanting it there and solid, glass it in. But if you have ideas to move it ever again, I would forego the glass... JMHO!

 

[nurseman]

gm, I like the router idea, nice and neat! I used a forstner bit when I did mine, but the router gives uniform depth! super slick! :thumb:

 

[nurseman]

gm, I like the router idea, nice and neat! I used a forstner bit when I did mine, but the router gives uniform depth! super slick! :thumb:

 

[gm280]

nurseman, you really never know what type tools you have to do things until you are presented with issues. Yes that little hand held trim router made super quick work of those holes and I would use it again if need be. Thanks for the nice words...

Today I started on the very front driver's panel section. I initially thought about a straight design and then thought how neat it would look with a beveled layout. So I took the straight plate I had already rough cut out, and changed the design so I have an angled plate to mount the gauges and switches in to. It allows straight view of the gauges even while sitting at the front seat. And that is what I was trying to achieve. However, when cutting bevels, you really need to do a nice miter joint so that both the outside and inside section meet perfectly. But I didn't know what that angle would be. So I mocked up a cardboard template and found out a mere 40 degree angle was perfect. So I split that angle in half and set the table saw to 20 degrees and cut the parts out. Then came the problem of how to hold them tightly together to glue them with gorilla glue. So I decided that I would make some special clamping jigs to hold them perfectly in line. And so I made four 40 degree special clamps. I took some 2 X 6 lumber laying around and cut four 10" pieces. Then I plotted the 40 degrees on them and drilled a 1" hole at the apex of the angle and then used the band saw to finish them up. Reason for the 1" hole? So that when clamped together and glued, the glue wouldn't come into contact with the clamps and I'd have one heck of a mess on my hands. So I proceeded to manufacture those clamps and glue the first section of the front plate. Here are a few pictures. I realize it really doesn't look like much, but you will see the design layout in the next few days. The clamps allowed both front and back side to fit perfectly mitered and glued...

As you can now see that 1" hole right at the angled joint. If you didn't cut that hole the glue squeezed out would glue the clamps as well.

Just a little different angle...

And the four clamps holding the mitered parts while they dry...
So if you're even needing special clamps for such things, make them. It is easy and cost whatever you have on hand...

While the glue was curing on the front plate, I switch over to the mix and pour holes in the boat floor. I mixed up some Peanut Butter and took a wide plastic putty knife and PBed the pucks/plugs in all the holes. So once they cure, it is time for CSM and poly...

Well that is it for today...

You all have a very nice day... :thumb:

 

[sphelps]

Good idea on the angled clamps ! Much better than my "by guess and by golly "method I usually end up using ..
Good stuff ! op2:

 

[gm280]

Update update...read all about it... :facepalm:

Okay that was korny for sure...

Today I finished gluing up the front angled panel and set it in for a look see. I think it will work out nicely. It will look better after it is installed with the gauges and switches...

I also mocked up (with cardboard) the side rod boxes would look like. And I like them. And amazingly enough there is still a lot of foot space in and around the seats even with the rod boxes. And that is because they basically don't take up any actual floor space but the side arched out area that otherwise would go unused. So you can see the cardboard mockup. And I did actually cut the wood for them, but the batteries were dead in the camera, so I put them on charge and will post the pictures tomorrow. Here is the mockup efforts. I know not much to really see, but it look tons better with the actual wood...

The boxes will be around 12" high and about 8" deep as it tapers off towards the front seat area. The very bottom of the cardboard is tight up against the side of the hull and the cardboard is sitting at 90 degrees to the floor. So you can see how the hull flares out. That really would be wasted space otherwise.

Just another shot...

Here is a look see of the front panel just sitting there. It isn't even sitting properly yet either. But you can see the angled section in the middle. That's where most of the switches and gauges will be installed.

Here is a little idea that maybe you can use. Here is a piece of cardboard. And you want to be able to fold it without cutting through it.

Well here is a little tool that I'm sure some of you know what it is and even have one laying around. For those of you that don't know what it is, it is a screen installation tool. On one end there is a round disk and that pushes the screen into the slot around a door or window. The other end pushes in the little round gasket like rubber section to hold the screen in place. If you use the round disk side and use a straight edge, you can crease the cardboard and fold it so easy to make anything you want...

Here is a typical marking. No it is not cut through but creased. Now the cardboard will easily fold at that crease like it came from the factory that way. Works great for making mockup structures out of cardboard...

So there is todays efforts. I quit early today because the temps got up there high once again and I was drenched with sweat...

You all have a great day... :thumb: