1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

[gm280]

I have a question for the boaters on here. How can you get much work done when the weather is 99 degree or more daily and that isn't even accounting for the humidity either? I have a great interest in doing boat work until I get out in the shop and the sweat is literally dripping off me and the interest turns to "oh crap, forget it"? We've had 95 plus degrees now for so long, I can't remember the last time it was decent to work in... And I honestly want to work, but I normally sweat in 70 degree weather. I have a condition called hyper hydration. It basically means I sweat just thinking about work. It is hereditary and nothing can be done. And I usually work through it, but not with this heat wave, I can't... :help:

 

[Woodonglass]

Oklahoma has some Brutal heat and humidity as well. I fought it for years. I finally broke down and purchased a 18,000 BTU window unit for my 600 square foot shop, Put 6" of insulation in the Ceilings and Walls and bought a 24" shop fan to circulate the air. I can keep the shop around 70? in the mornings and in the heat of the day when the heat index outside is 110 it's about 80?. Paid $250 for the AC and about $400 for the shop upgrades. Best $650 I've spent in a LONG TIME!!!! Before that, on the weekends I went to bed Really early so I could get up at dawn and work about 4 hours till the heat got to be too much. Then went out after dark for a few hours.

Like you, I can be in a Walk In Freezer, Take some crayons and draw a picture of the SUN and I'll start Sweating!!!!

 

[gm280]

Oklahoma has some Brutal heat and humidity as well. I fought it for years. I finally broke down and purchased a 18,000 BTU window unit for my 600 square foot shop, Put 6" of insulation in the Ceilings and Walls and bought a 24" shop fan to circulate the air. I can keep the shop around 70? in the mornings and in the heat of the day when the heat index outside is 110 it's about 80?. Paid $250 for the AC and about $400 for the shop upgrades. Best $650 I've spent in a LONG TIME!!!! Before that, on the weekends I went to bed Really early so I could get up at dawn and work about 4 hours till the heat got to be too much. Then went out after dark for a few hours.

Like you, I can be in a Walk In Freezer, Take some crayons and draw a picture of the SUN and I'll start Sweating!!!!

Wood, I seriously thought about air conditioning my shop. It is a 24' by 36' shop so it would take a fairly large unit. But every year I talk myself out of doing that because the heat wave usually breaks and I can actually do some work without dehydrating and heat stroke... I am going to try to get out there early in the morning to get things moving again. I am so close to PBing the floor down for keeps and moving on with all the tubing installed for the wiring. But each time I get the "want to's", the heat changes my mind...really quick! I stay out there for a mere few minutes and my cloths are totally soaked... :facepalm:

 

[Woodonglass]

I TOTALLY understand!!! I HAD a Heat stroke when I was 37 years oid. Put me in the Hospital for 3 days and I almost Died!!!! I've never been able to take the heat since then!!! The Admiral keeps tight reins on me when it comes to working in the heat!!! The heat index is 110? here today!!!

 

[gm280]

I TOTALLY understand!!! I HAD a Heat stroke when I was 37 years oid. Put me in the Hospital for 3 days and I almost Died!!!! I've never been able to take the heat since then!!! The Admiral keeps tight reins on me when it comes to working in the heat!!! The heat index is 110? here today!!!

WOW, I had a heat related issue last year where the neighbor, who is a paramedic, was called over to assist me because I was really bad. He stated that I had a heat related issue possibly a stroke. I was throwing up and couldn't even stand up anymore. He helped me into the house and they got me cooled down. I was almost transported to the ER. but I started to come around and so we didn't go... And like you, I can't seem to take the heat anymore either. When younger, it really didn't bother me in the least. These days, OMG I can't take any heat... And it gets even worst if it's in the direct sun. Instant problem! So I know better now. Between the heat issue I had last year and my older age, I lose interest if I get hot. And we've had easily over 100 degrees heat index forever lately...

 

[bonz_d]

gm280 I too can feel your pain, only in the opposite direction. For me it's the cold. With my circulation problems I have been seen wearing long sleeve sweat shirts and jeans when it's 80 deg. and feeling comfortable in that. Recently was working at a food plant were we would have to go inside storage freezers, -23 degrees, and clear ice out of evaporator units. I would tell people hi heat is uncomfortable but freezing cold hurts. Another time just before I left that job I had to go into an oven to repair a belt. By the time I'd finished they did end up taking me to the ER.

I now find temps in either extreme to be difficult to cope with.

 

[sphelps]

Yeh I would much rather sweat than freeze ... It flat out hurts to freeze ... But I also am finding it harder to cope with the high temps .. Usually around 4 pm or so we get sea breeze that kicks in to cool things a bit .. Along with afternoon showers ..

 

[gm280]

Okay! I got out there earlier today and did a little more spray painting. That worked out really nice. And then I decided to try again to make the 90 degree bends in the 1/2" continuous tubing for the wires to go through. My first try was a heat gun and slowly bending the tube...instant failure because the tube collapsed and closed up at the bend, as I thought it would. So I filled the tube with sand, thinking that the tube couldn't fold close with sand inside. Again failure because I couldn't keep the tube from collapsing on itself even with the sand in there. So after a few other little things I worked on, the heat won again and I retreated with a total sweat soaked shirt and closed up the shop again. BUT, I have another idea how to make that 90 degree bend. I just so happen to have a really large wire that is almost the same diameter as the inside of the tube. And I can slide that in and try the bend again. It can't collapse on that wire. Once I get those bends made and in place, I can button up the floor then. So those bends are now the stopping point of PBing the floor in. I will make then work somehow... :eyebrows:

You all have a wonderful day! :thumb:

 

[bonz_d]

Why not just use aluminum conduit or seal-tite for you raceways? We used both in the food plants were everything is always wet.

 

[gm280]

Why not just use aluminum conduit or seal-tite for you raceways? We used both in the food plants were everything is always wet.

bonz_d, I actually have only the last three pieces to finish up the tubing for the wires. And there is not one metal think in the boat thus far. Nothing but polyester and plastic (polypropylene) tubing for the wires I have to use to wire the hull up. So one more try at the tubing bend and it is all over. Then I can PB the floor and start the rod boxes next... Yea! :smile: But thanks for reading my post and offering your idea. I always like folks offering their ideas because it does make me rethink things so many time. :thumb:

 

[Woodonglass]

was the pipe filled 100% with sand and capped off at both ends??

 

[sphelps]

Hey gm , they make the flexable conduit . I was going to get some from the electricians at work but he did not have enough on hand to do my boat .
I think they sell it at the depot also .. http://www.amazon.com/Improvement-1...ts=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin:4459183011

 

[gm280]

was the pipe filled 100% with sand and capped off at both ends??

WOG yes and no. While I did have it totally filled, I honestly don't think it was really stuffed in enough to keep it from collapsing. But I have another idea to try yet!

 

[gm280]

Hey gm , they make the flexable conduit . I was going to get some from the electricians at work but he did not have enough on hand to do my boat .
I think they sell it at the depot also .. http://www.amazon.com/Improvement-1...ts=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin:4459183011

Sam, I thought about most everything and decided that a smooth wall tubing would be the easier to push/pull wires through. In fact I can easily use the shop vacuum to suck a string through to pull wires if the need be. What I'm actually using is some simple 1/2" black polypropylene tube that they make for irrigation runs. It is usually used for smaller areas with the usual drip or soaker type hoses. And it is really cheap. I think it was about $8 for fifty feet... And I really only need about 10 - 15 feet max... So another try tomorrow while the heat is under 90 degree and see if I can finish that effort up... Amazing how I have total interest in working on the boat and then get out there and after a mere hour (or less) the heat changes my mind... :facepalm:

 

[bonz_d]

No offense taken here gm. I've tried bending plastic before and never had much luck. Let me know how you finally get it worked out. How much heat are you using? Alumacraft used a thin wall tube from bow to stern in mine. I think you have much more patience than I do. I'll keep watchin!

 

[sphelps]

Yeh it is kind of hard .. Whats really needed is one of those heaters the electricians use to heat up the pipe in like 4 ft sections to make tight angled sweeps . But I have even seen them struggle to bend without kinking ..

 

[gm280]

bonz_d and Sam, Yea I should have thought about the bends I needed before choosing this cheap irrigation tubing. However, my next try is using a 10 gauge twin covered wire, that just so happens to be perfectly round with nearly the same inside diameter of the black tubing. So I think I can slide that wire in, heat the tube and make the bend. As long as there is enough space left after the bend to allow some 16 gauge twin flat covered wire through, I'll be happy. I finally received all the wires and connectors for wiring up this boat. And that is a lot of individual wires, and correct colors as well...

 

[gm280]

OKAY...success finally. My latest idea worked. I took a large wire (two 10 gauge marine grade wires coupled in a round covering) and slid it into the 1/2" tubing. Then heated the irrigation tubing with a typical heat gun until I seen it getting shiny and then bend a serious 90 degree bend. Then allowed it to cool down pretty much to near room temperature (of course that is still 90 degrees) and then slid the wire out easily and WALA...nice bend without collapse. So proof of concept passed... And now I can push forward to getting all those tubes installed now... ::bounce: :cheer2:

Okay, sorry for the pink pom poms...I got carried away there for a second... :sorry:

You all have a magnificent day :encouragement:

 

[Woodonglass]

When I was in the Pool Building Business we packed Schedule 40 PVC with wet sand and capped the ends and then use a propane torch to heat it and we could bend it fairly easy. We would then pour water on it and it would keep the shape with no problems. I've always done it that way but haven't done it for several years so I thought maybe they changed the pipe chemistry or sumthun. I do think it requires the sand to be packed pretty solid and the ends to be capped so it can't move to much. Glad your method worked. It sounds reasonable that it would.:joyous:

 

[gm280]

When I was in the Pool Building Business we packed Schedule 40 PVC with wet sand and capped the ends and then use a propane torch to heat it and we could bend it fairly easy. We would then pour water on it and it would keep the shape with no problems. I've always done it that way but haven't done it for several years so I thought maybe they changed the pipe chemistry or sumthun. I do think it requires the sand to be packed pretty solid and the ends to be capped so it can't move to much. Glad your method worked. It sounds reasonable that it would.:joyous:

Yes WOG, I did fill the tube from end to end and capped one end pretty well. But I probably didn't crammed enough sand in there to work correctly or cap the other end good enough as well. So of course the tube collapses like there was nothing in there. I'm certain if it was filled and crammed in there and capped, it would work well also. But this wire system seems to work really good and it takes a mere seconds to insert it and heat... I'll post some pictures of it and see how you all like it... :thumb: